Terroir 2010 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 La protection des terroirs viticoles dans l’AOC Côtes du Rhône (France)

La protection des terroirs viticoles dans l’AOC Côtes du Rhône (France)

Abstract

[English version below]

Les terroirs viticoles, et plus particulièrement ceux des vignobles AOC, sont aujourd’hui menacés par de multiples agressions. Ces territoires sont non seulement l’outil de production mais participent aussi, via l’image qu’ils renvoient du vignoble, à la valeur ajoutée des vins. Il est nécessaire de mettre en œuvre des démarches de protections.
Cet article vise à démontrer de manière appliquée les différentes formes de protections des terroirs viticoles. A partir d’exemples concrets développés dans le vignoble des Côtes du Rhône, les auteurs s’interrogent sur les réalités des démarches menées et leur conjugaison.
La protection des terroirs viticoles AOC des Côtes du Rhône sera abordée sous l’angle :
de l’Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée : fonctionnement, efficacités et limites ;
juridique : démarches existantes gérées par le Service de protection des terroirs du Syndicat d’appellation (Organisme de Défense et de Gestion) et les lacunes rencontrées ;
paysager : à travers le zonage agro-paysager de plus d’une quarantaine de communes de
l’aire d’appellation depuis 5 ans, qui pose la question de sa traduction dans les documents d’urbanisme et, plus largement, d’une approche transversale et partagée des paysages de vignobles (cf. Charte Internationale des Paysages Viticoles de Fontevraud) ;
environnemental : via des actions et des pratiques, ponctuelles ou collectives, orientées vers la durabilité et la pérennisation de la viticulture (vignobles et entreprises). Une étude est en cours pour diagnostiquer les initiatives existantes et établir un plan stratégique pour les années à venir ;
territorial : par une veille permanente qui amène le plus souvent à des réunions de concertation avec les collectivités, démarche indispensable à la reconnaissance politique de la valeur des terroirs viticoles.
Enfin, les résultats obtenus à ce jour mènent les auteurs à s’interroger sur la réelle efficacité du niveau de protection atteint. Ils évoquent la nécessité de développer une approche transversale, qui conjugue et combine les différents angles évoqués de la protection.

 

The wine-growing areas, especially in vineyards with appellation of controlled origin, are now threatened by multiple attacks. These territories are not only the tool of wine production but also participate through the image of the vineyard they refer to the value-added wines. It is necessary to implement protective actions.
This article aims to demonstrate a practical way the various forms of protection of wine terroirs. From concrete examples developed in the vineyards of the Cotes du Rhone, the authors discuss the realities of procedures performed and their combination.
The protection of terroirs of the Côtes du Rhône AOC will be discussed in terms of :
The AOC : operating efficiencies and limitations ;
Legal protection : existing approaches, managed by the service of protection of the terroirs of SGVRCDR (Organization of Defence and Management of AOC area), but the gaps encountered;
Landscape protection : through agricultural and landscape zoning of more than forty communes of the appellation area for 5 years, which raises the question of its translation into planning documents and more broadly of a horizontal approach and shared landscapes of vineyards (cf. Charter of the International Wine Landscapes Fontevraud) ;
Environmental protection : through actions and practices, individual or collective, oriented towards sustainability and the sustainability of viticulture (vineyards and wine businesses).
A study is underway to diagnose existing initiatives and develop a strategic plan for the future;
Territorial protection : a continuous watch that most often leads to consultation meetings with communities, a process essential to the political recognition of the value of wine terroirs.
Finally, the results obtained so far led the authors to question the real effectiveness of the level of protection achieved. They say they need to develop a horizontal approach, which combines and combines different angles evoked protection.

DOI:

Publication date: December 3, 2021

Issue: Terroir 2010

Type: Article

Authors

B. RODRIGUEZ LOVELLE (1), L. FABBRI (2), A. PUJOL (3)

(1,3) Syndicat Général des Vignerons Réunis des Côtes du Rhône

(1) Service technique – Institut Rhodanien – 2260 Rte. du Grès – 84100 Orange (France)

(3) Service protection des terroirs – Maison des Vins – 6 rue des Trois Faucons – 84000 Avignon (France)

(2) Territoires & Paysages – Hôtel d’entreprises – 10 av. de la Croix Rouge – 84000 Avignon (France)

Contact the author

Keywords

Terroir, aménagement du territoire, protection juridique, paysage, potentiel de production, AOC, Côtes du Rhône, zonage
« Terroir », territory planning, legal protection, landscape, production potential, appellation of controlled origin, « Côtes du Rhône », zoning

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2010

Citation

Related articles…

Spatial variability of temperature is linked to grape composition variability in the Saint-Emilion winegrowing area

Elevated temperature during the grape maturation period is a major threat for grape quality and thus wine quality. Therefore, characterizing the grape composition response to temperature at a larger scale would represent a crucial step towards adaptation to climate change. In response to changes in temperature, various physiological mechanisms regulate grape composition. Primary and secondary metabolisms are both involved in this response, with well-known effects, for example on anthocyanins, and lesser known effects, for example on aromas or aroma precursors. At the field scale or at the regional scale, however, numerous environmental or plant-specific factors intervene to make the effects of temperature difficult to distinguish from overall variability. In this study, it was attempted to overcome this difficulty by selecting well-characterized situations with differing temperatures.
A long-term study of air temperature variability across several Merlot vineyards in the Saint-Emilion and Pomerol wine producing area found significant temperature differences and gradients at various time scales linked to environmental factors. From this study area, a few sites were selected with similar age, soil and training system conditions, and with repeated and contrasted temperature differences during the maturation period. The average temperature difference during the maturation period was about 2°C between cooler and warmer sites, a difference similar to that expected under future climate change scenarios. In close vicinity to the temperature sensors at each site, grape berries were sampled at different times until full maturity during 2019 and 2020. Also, berries from bunches on either side of the row were analyzed separately, allowing an investigation of bunch exposure effect associated with the coupling of berry temperature and solar radiation. Four replicates of pooled berries for each time – site – bunch exposure combination were obtained and analyzed for biochemical composition. Analyses of variance of the biochemical composition data collected at different sampling times reveal significant effects associated with temperature, site, and bunch azimuth. For instance, anthocyanins in grape skins are clearly influenced by temperature and solar radiation exposure, with up to 30% reduction in warmer conditions.

Adaptation to soil and climate through the choice of plant material

Choosing the rootstock, the scion variety and the training system best suited to the local soil and climate are the key elements for an economically sustainable production of wine. The choice of the rootstock/scion variety best adapted to the characteristics of the soil is essential but, by changing climatic conditions, ongoing climate change disrupts the fine-tuned local equilibrium. Higher temperatures induce shifts in developmental stages, with on the one hand increasing fears of spring frost damages and, on the other hand, ripening during the warmest periods in summer. Expected higher water demand and longer and more frequent drought events are also major concerns. The genetic control of the phenotypes, by genomic information but also by the epigenetic control of gene expression, offers a lot of opportunities for adapting the plant material to the future. For complex traits, genomic selection is also a promising method for predicting phenotypes. However, ecophysiological modelling is necessary to better anticipate the phenotypes in unexplored climatic conditions Genetic approaches applied on parameters of ecophysiological models rather than raw observed data are more than ever the basis for finding, or building, the ideal varieties of the future.

Permanent cover cropping with reduced tillage increased resiliency of wine grape vineyards to climate change

Majority of California’s vineyards rely on supplemental irrigation to overcome abiotic stressors. In the context of climate change, increases in growing season temperatures and crop evapotranspiration pose a risk to adaptation of viticulture to climate change. Vineyard cover crops may mitigate soil erosion and preserve water resources; but there is a lack of information on how they contribute to vineyard resiliency under tillage systems. The aim of this study was to identify the optimum combination of cover crop sand tillage without adversely affecting productivity while preserving plant water status. Two experiments in two contrasting climatic regions were conducted with two cover crops, including a permanent short stature grass (P. bulbosa hybrid), barley (Hordeum spp), and resident vegetation under till vs. no-till systems in a Ruby Cabernet (V. vinifera spp.) (Fresno) and a Cabernet Sauvingon (Napa) vineyard. Results indicated that permanent grass under no-till preserved plant available water until E-L stage 17. Consequently, net carbon assimilation of the permanent grass under no-till system was enhanced compared to those with barley and resident vegetation. On the other hand, the barley under no-till system reduced grapevine net carbon assimilation during berry ripening that led to lower content of nonstructural carbohydrates in shoots at dormancy. Components of yield and berry composition including flavonoid profile at either site were not adversely affected by factors studied. Switching to a permanent cover crop under a no-till system also provided a 9% and 3% benefit in cultural practices costs in Fresno and Napa, respectively. The results of this work provides fundamental information to growers in preserving resiliency of vineyard systems in hot and warm climate regions under context of climate change.

Adaptability of grapevines to climate change: characterization of phenology and sugar accumulation of 50 varieties, under hot climate conditions

Climate is the major factor influencing the dynamics of the vegetative cycle and can determine the timing of phenological periods. Knowledge of the phenology of varieties, their chronological duration, and thermal requirements, allows not only for the better management of interventions in the vineyard, but also to predict the varieties’ behaviour in a scenario of climate change, giving the wine producer the possibility of selecting the grape varieties that are best adapted to the climatic conditions of a certain terroir. In 2014, Symington Family Estates, Vinhos, established two grape variety libraries in two different places with distinctive climate conditions (Douro Superior, and Cima Corgo), with the commitment of contributing to a deeper agronomic and oenological understanding of some grape varieties, in hot climate conditions. In these research vineyards are represented local varieties that are important in the regional and national viticulture, but also others that have over time been forgotten — as well as five international reference cultivars. From 2017 to 2021, phenological observations have been made three times a week, following a defined protocol, to determine the average dates of budbreak, flowering and veraison. With the climate data of each location, the thermal requirements of each variety and the chronological duration of each phase have been calculated. During maturation, berry samples have been gathered weekly to study the dynamics of sugar accumulation, between other parameters. The data was analysed applying phenological and sugar accumulation models available in literature. The results obtained show significant differences between the varieties over several parameters, from the chronological duration and thermal requirements to complete the various stages of development, to the differences between the two locations, confirming the influence of the climate on phenology and the stages of maturation, in these specific conditions.

The impact of sustainable management regimes on amino acid profiles in grape juice, grape skin flavonoids, and hydroxycinnamic acids

One of the biggest challenges of agriculture today is maintaining food safety and food quality while providing ecosystem services such as biodiversity conservation, pest and disease control, ensuring water quality and supply, and climate regulation. Organic farming was shown to promote biodiversity and carbon sequestration, and is therefore seen as one possibility of environmentally friendly production. Consumers expect organically grown crops to be free from chemical pesticides and mineral fertilizers and often presume that the quality of organically grown crops is different or higher compared to conventionally grown crops. Integrated, organic, and biodynamic viticulture were compared in a replicated field trial in Geisenheim, Germany (Vitis vinifera L. cv. Riesling). Amino acid profiles in juice, grape skin flavonoids, and hydroxycinnamic acids were monitored over three consecutive seasons beginning 7 years after conversion to organic and biodynamic viticulture, respectively. In addition, parameters such as soil nutrient status, yield, vigor, canopy temperature, and water stress were monitored to draw conclusions on reasons for the observed changes. Results revealed that the different sustainable management regimes highly differed in their amino acid profiles in juice and also in their skin flavonol content, whereas differences in the flavanol and hydroxycinnamic acid content were less pronounced. It is very likely that differences in nutrient status and yield determined amino acid profiles in juice, although all three systems showed similar amounts of mineralized nitrogen in the soil. Canopy structure and temperature in the bunch zone did not differ among treatments and therefore cannot account for the observed differences in favonols. A different light exposure of the bunches in the respective systems due to differences in vigor together with differences in berry size and a different water status of the vines might rather be responsible for the increase in flavonol content under organic and biodynamic viticulture.