Terroir 2010 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 La protection des terroirs viticoles dans l’AOC Côtes du Rhône (France)

La protection des terroirs viticoles dans l’AOC Côtes du Rhône (France)

Abstract

[English version below]

Les terroirs viticoles, et plus particulièrement ceux des vignobles AOC, sont aujourd’hui menacés par de multiples agressions. Ces territoires sont non seulement l’outil de production mais participent aussi, via l’image qu’ils renvoient du vignoble, à la valeur ajoutée des vins. Il est nécessaire de mettre en œuvre des démarches de protections.
Cet article vise à démontrer de manière appliquée les différentes formes de protections des terroirs viticoles. A partir d’exemples concrets développés dans le vignoble des Côtes du Rhône, les auteurs s’interrogent sur les réalités des démarches menées et leur conjugaison.
La protection des terroirs viticoles AOC des Côtes du Rhône sera abordée sous l’angle :
de l’Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée : fonctionnement, efficacités et limites ;
juridique : démarches existantes gérées par le Service de protection des terroirs du Syndicat d’appellation (Organisme de Défense et de Gestion) et les lacunes rencontrées ;
paysager : à travers le zonage agro-paysager de plus d’une quarantaine de communes de
l’aire d’appellation depuis 5 ans, qui pose la question de sa traduction dans les documents d’urbanisme et, plus largement, d’une approche transversale et partagée des paysages de vignobles (cf. Charte Internationale des Paysages Viticoles de Fontevraud) ;
environnemental : via des actions et des pratiques, ponctuelles ou collectives, orientées vers la durabilité et la pérennisation de la viticulture (vignobles et entreprises). Une étude est en cours pour diagnostiquer les initiatives existantes et établir un plan stratégique pour les années à venir ;
territorial : par une veille permanente qui amène le plus souvent à des réunions de concertation avec les collectivités, démarche indispensable à la reconnaissance politique de la valeur des terroirs viticoles.
Enfin, les résultats obtenus à ce jour mènent les auteurs à s’interroger sur la réelle efficacité du niveau de protection atteint. Ils évoquent la nécessité de développer une approche transversale, qui conjugue et combine les différents angles évoqués de la protection.

 

The wine-growing areas, especially in vineyards with appellation of controlled origin, are now threatened by multiple attacks. These territories are not only the tool of wine production but also participate through the image of the vineyard they refer to the value-added wines. It is necessary to implement protective actions.
This article aims to demonstrate a practical way the various forms of protection of wine terroirs. From concrete examples developed in the vineyards of the Cotes du Rhone, the authors discuss the realities of procedures performed and their combination.
The protection of terroirs of the Côtes du Rhône AOC will be discussed in terms of :
The AOC : operating efficiencies and limitations ;
Legal protection : existing approaches, managed by the service of protection of the terroirs of SGVRCDR (Organization of Defence and Management of AOC area), but the gaps encountered;
Landscape protection : through agricultural and landscape zoning of more than forty communes of the appellation area for 5 years, which raises the question of its translation into planning documents and more broadly of a horizontal approach and shared landscapes of vineyards (cf. Charter of the International Wine Landscapes Fontevraud) ;
Environmental protection : through actions and practices, individual or collective, oriented towards sustainability and the sustainability of viticulture (vineyards and wine businesses).
A study is underway to diagnose existing initiatives and develop a strategic plan for the future;
Territorial protection : a continuous watch that most often leads to consultation meetings with communities, a process essential to the political recognition of the value of wine terroirs.
Finally, the results obtained so far led the authors to question the real effectiveness of the level of protection achieved. They say they need to develop a horizontal approach, which combines and combines different angles evoked protection.

DOI:

Publication date: December 3, 2021

Issue: Terroir 2010

Type: Article

Authors

B. RODRIGUEZ LOVELLE (1), L. FABBRI (2), A. PUJOL (3)

(1,3) Syndicat Général des Vignerons Réunis des Côtes du Rhône

(1) Service technique – Institut Rhodanien – 2260 Rte. du Grès – 84100 Orange (France)

(3) Service protection des terroirs – Maison des Vins – 6 rue des Trois Faucons – 84000 Avignon (France)

(2) Territoires & Paysages – Hôtel d’entreprises – 10 av. de la Croix Rouge – 84000 Avignon (France)

Contact the author

Keywords

Terroir, aménagement du territoire, protection juridique, paysage, potentiel de production, AOC, Côtes du Rhône, zonage
« Terroir », territory planning, legal protection, landscape, production potential, appellation of controlled origin, « Côtes du Rhône », zoning

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2010

Citation

Related articles…

Grapevine xylem embolism resistance spectrum reveals which varieties have a lower mortality risk in a future dry climate

Wine growing regions have recently faced intense and frequent droughts that have led to substantial economical losses, and the maintenance of grapevine productivity under warmer and drier climate will rely notably on planting drought-resistant cultivars. Given that plant growth and yield depend on water transport efficiency and maintenance of photosynthesis, thus on the preservation of the vascular system integrity during drought, a better understanding of drought-related hydraulic traits that have a significant impact on physiological processes is urgently needed. We have worked towards this end by assessing vulnerability to xylem embolism in 30 grapevine commercial varieties encompassing red and white Vitis vinifera varieties, hybrid varieties characterized by a polygenic resistance for powdery and downy mildew, and commonly used rootstocks. These analyses further allowed a global assessment of wine regions with respect to their varietal diversity and resulting vulnerability to stem embolism. Hybrid cultivars displayed the highest vulnerability to embolism, while rootstocks showed the greatest resistance. Significant variability also arose among Vitis vinifera varieties, with Ψ12 and Ψ50 values ranging from -0.4 to -2.7 MPa and from -1.8 to -3.4 MPa, respectively. Cabernet franc, Chardonnay and Ugni blanc featured among the most vulnerable varieties while Pinot noir, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon ranked among the most resistant. In consequence, wine regions bearing a significant proportion of vulnerable varieties, such as Poitou-Charentes, France and Marlborough, New Zealand, turned out to be at greater risk under drought. These results highlight that grapevine varieties may not respond equally to warmer and drier conditions, outlining the importance to consider hydraulic traits associated with plant drought tolerance into breeding programmes and modeling simulations of grapevine yield maintenance under severe drought. They finally represent a step forward to advise the wine industry about which varieties and regions would have the lowest risk of drought-induced mortality under climate change.

How distinctive are single vineyard Gewürztraminer musts and wines from Alto Adige (Italy) based on untargeted analysis, sensory profiling, and chemometric elaboration?

Vitis vinifera L. ‘Gewürztraminer’ is a historical grape variety of Alto Adige (Südtirol), Italy, which is widely grown in the area of Tramin an der Weinstraße, but is also grown globally. It produces highly aromatic wines that are strongly influenced by the terroir of the vineyard sites where they are grown. This study looked at musts and young wines from ‘Gewürztraminer’ grapes harvested in seven distinct vineyards near Tramin and then processed at Cantina di Termeno, minimizing winemaking protocol variability. Samples were profiled using bidimensional gas chromatography–time-of-flight mass spectrometry, liquid chromatography coupled to electrochemical detection, and near-IR spectrometry. The data were subjected to Principle Component Analysis and Hierarchical Clustering Analysis. Sensory discriminant testing was undertaken using the sorting method with a semi-trained panel, and the data were processed using Multidimensional Scaling. Seven must/wine pairs could be distinguished based on their untargeted volatilome profiles and on sensory evaluation. As expected, there were greater differences in the volatile compounds between the wines than between the musts. The wines from vineyards 4 and 5 were nonetheless quite homogenous in terms of chemical and sensory analyses, as were the wines from vineyards 1 and 3. For the phenolic profile, differences were noted between the musts and wines of vineyards 2, 3, and 4, but the musts from vineyards 5 and 7 were similar. Sensory analysis showed the wines from vineyards 6 and 7 to be distinct from the rest. These results reinforce that the composition of ‘Gewürztraminer’ musts and wines is strongly determined by vineyard site, even in a small geographic area with high variability of the terroir (soil and microclimate), and that these differences are apparent in the flavours and aromas of the finished wines. Further confirmation would require a larger sample of wines, preferably from several vintages.

Co-design and evaluation of spatially explicit strategies of adaptation to climate change in a Mediterranean watershed

Climate change challenges differently wine growing systems, depending on their biophysical, sociological and economic features. Therefore, there is a need to locally design and evaluate adaptation strategies combining several technical options, and considering the local opportunities and constraints (e.g. water access, wine typicity). The case study took place in a typical and heterogeneous Mediterranean vineyard of 1,500 ha in the South of France. We developed a participatory modeling approach to (1) conceptualize local climate change issues and design spatially explicit adaptation strategies with stakeholders, (2) numerically evaluate their effects on phenology, yield and irrigation needs under the high-emissions climate change scenario RCP 8.5, and (3) collectively discuss simulation results. We organized five sets of workshops, with in-between modeling phases. A process-based model was developed that allowed to evaluate the effects of six technical options (late varieties, irrigation, water saving by reducing canopy size, adjusting cover cropping, reducing density, and shading) with various distributions in the watershed, as well as vineyard relocation. Overall, we co-designed three adaptation strategies. Delay harvest strategy with late varieties showed little effects on decreasing air temperature during ripening. Water constraint limitation strategy would compensate for production losses if disruptive adaptations (e.g. reduced density) were adopted, and more land got access to irrigation. Relocation strategy would foster high premium wine production in the constrained mountainous areas where grapevine is less impacted by climate change. This research shows that a spatial distribution of technical changes gives room for adaptation to climate change, and that the collaboration with local stakeholders is a key to the identification of relevant adaptation. Further research should explore the potential of adaptation strategies based on soil quality improvement and on water stress tolerant varieties.

Upscaling the integrated terroir zoning through digital soil mapping: a case study in the Designation of Origin Campo de Borja

homogeneous zones by intersecting several partial zonings of major factors that influence vineyard growth. Each of them follows specific process from their corresponding disciplines. Soil zoning specifically refers to a Soil Resource Inventory map that has traditionally been generated by conventional soil mapping methods. These methods have shortcomings in reaching fine cartographic and categorical details and involve significant expenses, which undermines their applicability. A new framework named Digital Soil Mapping has introduced quantitative models by statistical techniques to establish soil-landscape relationships and is able to provide intensive scale cartography.

In the present study, a microzoning at 1:10.000 scale is generated from an initial zoning, where the conventional soil map with polytaxic map units is replaced by a new one from digital techniques that disaggregates them. The comparison between the zonings considers a quantitative evaluation of capability for each Homogeneous Terroir Unit by means of the Viticultural Quality Index and its categorization based on its distribution by map. The spatial intersection of both maps gives rise to a confusion matrix in which the flows of class variations after the substitution are assessed.

The results show a five-fold increase in the number of Homogeneous Terroir Units identified and a larger differentiation among them, evidenced by a wider range in the capability index distribution. Both elements are accompanied by an increase in the detection of areas of higher potential within previously undervalued uniform zones.These features are a direct effect of the improvements brought by Digital Soil Mapping techniques and would verify the advantages of their implementation in the Integrated Terroir zoning. Eventually, such new highly detailed terroir units would benefit precision viticulture and sustainable management practices.

Updating the Winkler index: An analysis of Cabernet sauvignon in Napa Valley’s varied and changing climate

This study aims to create an updated, agile viticultural climate index (similar to the Winkler Index) by performing in-depth analyses of current and historical data from industry partners in several major winegrowing regions. The Winkler Index was developed in the early twentieth century based on analysis of various grape-growing regions in California. The index uses heat accumulation (i.e. Growing Degree Days) throughout the growing season to determine which grape varieties are best suited to each region. As viticultural regions are increasingly subject to the complexity and uncertainty of a changing climate, a more rigorous, agile model is needed to aid grape growers in determining which cultivars to plant where. For the first phase of this study, 21 industry partners throughout Napa Valley shared historical phenology, harvest, viticultural practice, and weather data related to their Cabernet sauvignon vineyard blocks. To complement this data, berry samples were collected throughout the 2021 growing season from 50 vineyard blocks located throughout 16 American Viticultural Areas that were then analyzed for basic berry chemistry and phenolics. These blocks have been mapped using a Geographic Information System (GIS), enabling analysis of altitude, vineyard row orientation, slope, and remotely sensed climate data. Sampling sites were also chosen based on their proximity to a weather station. By analyzing historical data from industry partners and data specifically collected for this study, it is possible to identify key parameters for further analysis. Initial results indicate extreme variability at a high spatial resolution not currently accounted for in modern viticultural climate indices and suggest that viticultural practices play a major role. Using the structure of data collection and analyses developed for the first phase, this project will soon be expanded to other wine regions globally, while continuing data collection in Napa Valley.