Terroir 2010 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 La protection des terroirs viticoles dans l’AOC Côtes du Rhône (France)

La protection des terroirs viticoles dans l’AOC Côtes du Rhône (France)

Abstract

[English version below]

Les terroirs viticoles, et plus particulièrement ceux des vignobles AOC, sont aujourd’hui menacés par de multiples agressions. Ces territoires sont non seulement l’outil de production mais participent aussi, via l’image qu’ils renvoient du vignoble, à la valeur ajoutée des vins. Il est nécessaire de mettre en œuvre des démarches de protections.
Cet article vise à démontrer de manière appliquée les différentes formes de protections des terroirs viticoles. A partir d’exemples concrets développés dans le vignoble des Côtes du Rhône, les auteurs s’interrogent sur les réalités des démarches menées et leur conjugaison.
La protection des terroirs viticoles AOC des Côtes du Rhône sera abordée sous l’angle :
de l’Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée : fonctionnement, efficacités et limites ;
juridique : démarches existantes gérées par le Service de protection des terroirs du Syndicat d’appellation (Organisme de Défense et de Gestion) et les lacunes rencontrées ;
paysager : à travers le zonage agro-paysager de plus d’une quarantaine de communes de
l’aire d’appellation depuis 5 ans, qui pose la question de sa traduction dans les documents d’urbanisme et, plus largement, d’une approche transversale et partagée des paysages de vignobles (cf. Charte Internationale des Paysages Viticoles de Fontevraud) ;
environnemental : via des actions et des pratiques, ponctuelles ou collectives, orientées vers la durabilité et la pérennisation de la viticulture (vignobles et entreprises). Une étude est en cours pour diagnostiquer les initiatives existantes et établir un plan stratégique pour les années à venir ;
territorial : par une veille permanente qui amène le plus souvent à des réunions de concertation avec les collectivités, démarche indispensable à la reconnaissance politique de la valeur des terroirs viticoles.
Enfin, les résultats obtenus à ce jour mènent les auteurs à s’interroger sur la réelle efficacité du niveau de protection atteint. Ils évoquent la nécessité de développer une approche transversale, qui conjugue et combine les différents angles évoqués de la protection.

 

The wine-growing areas, especially in vineyards with appellation of controlled origin, are now threatened by multiple attacks. These territories are not only the tool of wine production but also participate through the image of the vineyard they refer to the value-added wines. It is necessary to implement protective actions.
This article aims to demonstrate a practical way the various forms of protection of wine terroirs. From concrete examples developed in the vineyards of the Cotes du Rhone, the authors discuss the realities of procedures performed and their combination.
The protection of terroirs of the Côtes du Rhône AOC will be discussed in terms of :
The AOC : operating efficiencies and limitations ;
Legal protection : existing approaches, managed by the service of protection of the terroirs of SGVRCDR (Organization of Defence and Management of AOC area), but the gaps encountered;
Landscape protection : through agricultural and landscape zoning of more than forty communes of the appellation area for 5 years, which raises the question of its translation into planning documents and more broadly of a horizontal approach and shared landscapes of vineyards (cf. Charter of the International Wine Landscapes Fontevraud) ;
Environmental protection : through actions and practices, individual or collective, oriented towards sustainability and the sustainability of viticulture (vineyards and wine businesses).
A study is underway to diagnose existing initiatives and develop a strategic plan for the future;
Territorial protection : a continuous watch that most often leads to consultation meetings with communities, a process essential to the political recognition of the value of wine terroirs.
Finally, the results obtained so far led the authors to question the real effectiveness of the level of protection achieved. They say they need to develop a horizontal approach, which combines and combines different angles evoked protection.

DOI:

Publication date: December 3, 2021

Issue: Terroir 2010

Type: Article

Authors

B. RODRIGUEZ LOVELLE (1), L. FABBRI (2), A. PUJOL (3)

(1,3) Syndicat Général des Vignerons Réunis des Côtes du Rhône

(1) Service technique – Institut Rhodanien – 2260 Rte. du Grès – 84100 Orange (France)

(3) Service protection des terroirs – Maison des Vins – 6 rue des Trois Faucons – 84000 Avignon (France)

(2) Territoires & Paysages – Hôtel d’entreprises – 10 av. de la Croix Rouge – 84000 Avignon (France)

Contact the author

Keywords

Terroir, aménagement du territoire, protection juridique, paysage, potentiel de production, AOC, Côtes du Rhône, zonage
« Terroir », territory planning, legal protection, landscape, production potential, appellation of controlled origin, « Côtes du Rhône », zoning

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2010

Citation

Related articles…

Comparison of imputation methods in long and varied phenological series. Application to the Conegliano dataset, including observations from 1964 over 400 grape varieties

A large varietal collection including over 1700 varieties was maintained in Conegliano, ITA, since the 1950s. Phenological data on a subset of 400 grape varieties including wine grapes, table grapes, and raisins were acquired at bud break, flowering, veraison, and ripening since 1964. Despite the efforts in maintaining and acquiring data over such an extensive collection, the data set has varying degrees of missing cases depending on the variety and the year. This is ubiquitous in phenology datasets with significant size and length. In this work, we evaluated four state-of-the-art methods to estimate missing values in this phenological series: k-Nearest Neighbour (kNN), Multivariate Imputation by Chained Equations (mice), MissForest, and Bidirectional Recurrent Imputation for Time Series (BRITS). For each phenological stage, we evaluated the performance of the methods in two ways. 1) On the full dataset, we randomly hold-out 10% of the true values for use as a test set and repeated the process 1000 times (Monte Carlo cross-validation). 2) On a reduced and almost complete subset of varieties, we varied the percentage of missing values from 10% to 70% by random deletion. In all cases, we evaluated the performance on the original values using normalized root mean squared error. For the full dataset we also obtained performance statistics by variety and by year. MissForest provided average errors of 17% (3 days) at budbreak, 14% (4 days) at flowering, 14.5% (7 days) at veraison, and 17% (3 days) at maturity. We completed the imputations of the Conegliano dataset, one of the world’s most extensive and varied phenological time series and a steppingstone for future climate change studies in grapes. The dataset is now ready for further analysis, and a rigorous evaluation of imputation errors is included.

From a local to an international scale: sensory benchmarking of PDO wines. Quincy and Reuilly PDO wines (Sauvignon blanc) as a case study (France)

In a collective marketing strategy, the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) can be used as a quality indicator. To highlight terroir specificities, it is useful to know how the wines are positioned on the local, national or international market from a sensory point of view. This is especially true for a comparison of varietal wines (e.g. Sauvignon blanc). We focus on the case of two closed Loire Valley PDO (France): Quincy and Reuilly. Three distinct tastings were organized. Firstly, at the local level comparing the 2 PDO (11 and 9 wines, 17 professional assessors); secondly at a regional level adding 3 closed PDO: Menetou-Salon, Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé (3 wines per PDO, 16 assessors) and thirdly at an international level comparing these 5 PDO with Sauvignon Blanc wines coming from South Africa, New Zealand and Chile (1 to 3 wines per PDO, 19 assessors). All the wines were from the 2019 vintage and were considered to have a traditional elaboration process without contact with oak. A sensory descriptive analysis was performed using an aroma wheel allowing to combine a Check-All-That-Apply methodology, often used in sensory benchmarking, with a hierarchical structuration of the attributes. The aim is to facilitate data acquisition in a professional context without common training, to consider the hierarchical relationships among the attributes during the data analysis and to be able to characterize wines with a large range of sensorial variability. We use univariate, multivariate and clustering analyses. Similarities and differences between Quincy and Reuilly PDO wines and other Sauvignon blanc wines were identified. Specific attributes can distinguish the two PDO and different proximities exist with other local PDO, while clear differences were observed compared to international wines. Our study contributes to propose and discuss a method to do a wine sensory benchmarking highlighting sensory specificities linked to origin.

‘Cabernet Sauvignon’ (Vitis vinifera L.) berry skin flavonol and anthocyanin composition is affected by trellis systems and applied water amounts

Trellis systems are selected in wine grape vineyards to mainly maximize vineyard yield and maintain berry quality. This study was conducted in 2020 and 2021 to evaluate six commonly utilized trellis systems including a vertical shoot positioning (VSP), two relaxed VSPs (VSP60 and VSP80), a single high wire (SH), a high quadrilateral (HQ), and a guyot (GY), combined with three levels of irrigation regimes based on different crop evapotranspiration (ETc) replacements, including a 25% ETc, 50% ETc, and 100% ETc. The results indicated SH yielded the most fruits and accumulated the most total soluble solids (TSS) at harvest in 2020, however, it showed the lowest TSS in the second season. In 2020, SH and HQ showed higher concentrations in most of the anthocyanin derivatives compared to the VSPs. Similar comparisons were noticed in 2021 as well. SH and HQ also accumulated more flavonols in both years compared to other trellis systems. Overall, this study provides information on the efficacy of trellis systems on grapevine yield and berry flavonoid accumulation in a currently warming climate.

The rootstock, the neglected player in the scion transpiration even during the night

Water is the main limiting factor for yield in viticulture. Improving drought adaptation in viticulture will be an increasingly important issue under climate change. Genetic variability of water deficit responses in grapevine partly results from the rootstocks, making them an attractive and relevant mean to achieve adaptation without changing the scion genotype. The objective of this work was to characterize the rootstock effect on the diurnal regulation of scion transpiration. A large panel of 55 commercial genotypes were grafted onto Cabernet Sauvignon. Three biological repetitions per genotype were analyzed. Potted plants were phenotyped on a greenhouse balance platform capable of assessing real-time water use and maintaining a targeted water deficit intensity. After a 10 days well-watered baseline period, an increasing water deficit was applied for 10 days, followed by a stable water deficit stress for 7 days. Pruning weight, root and aerial dry weight and transpiration were recorded and the experiment was repeated during two years. Transpiration efficiency (ratio between aerial biomass and transpiration) was calculated and δ13C was measured in leaves for the baseline and stable water deficit periods. A large genetic variability was observed within the panel. The rootstock had a significant impact on nocturnal transpiration which was also strongly and positively correlated with maximum daytime transpiration. The correlations with growth and water use efficiency related traits will be discussed. Transpiration data were also related with VPD and soil water content demonstrating the influence of environmental conditions on transpiration. These results highlighted the role of the rootstock in modulating water deficit responses and give insights for rootstock breeding programs aimed at identifying drought tolerant rootstocks. It was also helpful to better define the mechanisms on which the drought tolerance in grapevine rootstocks is based on.

The impact of sustainable management regimes on amino acid profiles in grape juice, grape skin flavonoids, and hydroxycinnamic acids

One of the biggest challenges of agriculture today is maintaining food safety and food quality while providing ecosystem services such as biodiversity conservation, pest and disease control, ensuring water quality and supply, and climate regulation. Organic farming was shown to promote biodiversity and carbon sequestration, and is therefore seen as one possibility of environmentally friendly production. Consumers expect organically grown crops to be free from chemical pesticides and mineral fertilizers and often presume that the quality of organically grown crops is different or higher compared to conventionally grown crops. Integrated, organic, and biodynamic viticulture were compared in a replicated field trial in Geisenheim, Germany (Vitis vinifera L. cv. Riesling). Amino acid profiles in juice, grape skin flavonoids, and hydroxycinnamic acids were monitored over three consecutive seasons beginning 7 years after conversion to organic and biodynamic viticulture, respectively. In addition, parameters such as soil nutrient status, yield, vigor, canopy temperature, and water stress were monitored to draw conclusions on reasons for the observed changes. Results revealed that the different sustainable management regimes highly differed in their amino acid profiles in juice and also in their skin flavonol content, whereas differences in the flavanol and hydroxycinnamic acid content were less pronounced. It is very likely that differences in nutrient status and yield determined amino acid profiles in juice, although all three systems showed similar amounts of mineralized nitrogen in the soil. Canopy structure and temperature in the bunch zone did not differ among treatments and therefore cannot account for the observed differences in favonols. A different light exposure of the bunches in the respective systems due to differences in vigor together with differences in berry size and a different water status of the vines might rather be responsible for the increase in flavonol content under organic and biodynamic viticulture.