Terroir 2010 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 La protection des terroirs viticoles dans l’AOC Côtes du Rhône (France)

La protection des terroirs viticoles dans l’AOC Côtes du Rhône (France)

Abstract

[English version below]

Les terroirs viticoles, et plus particulièrement ceux des vignobles AOC, sont aujourd’hui menacés par de multiples agressions. Ces territoires sont non seulement l’outil de production mais participent aussi, via l’image qu’ils renvoient du vignoble, à la valeur ajoutée des vins. Il est nécessaire de mettre en œuvre des démarches de protections.
Cet article vise à démontrer de manière appliquée les différentes formes de protections des terroirs viticoles. A partir d’exemples concrets développés dans le vignoble des Côtes du Rhône, les auteurs s’interrogent sur les réalités des démarches menées et leur conjugaison.
La protection des terroirs viticoles AOC des Côtes du Rhône sera abordée sous l’angle :
de l’Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée : fonctionnement, efficacités et limites ;
juridique : démarches existantes gérées par le Service de protection des terroirs du Syndicat d’appellation (Organisme de Défense et de Gestion) et les lacunes rencontrées ;
paysager : à travers le zonage agro-paysager de plus d’une quarantaine de communes de
l’aire d’appellation depuis 5 ans, qui pose la question de sa traduction dans les documents d’urbanisme et, plus largement, d’une approche transversale et partagée des paysages de vignobles (cf. Charte Internationale des Paysages Viticoles de Fontevraud) ;
environnemental : via des actions et des pratiques, ponctuelles ou collectives, orientées vers la durabilité et la pérennisation de la viticulture (vignobles et entreprises). Une étude est en cours pour diagnostiquer les initiatives existantes et établir un plan stratégique pour les années à venir ;
territorial : par une veille permanente qui amène le plus souvent à des réunions de concertation avec les collectivités, démarche indispensable à la reconnaissance politique de la valeur des terroirs viticoles.
Enfin, les résultats obtenus à ce jour mènent les auteurs à s’interroger sur la réelle efficacité du niveau de protection atteint. Ils évoquent la nécessité de développer une approche transversale, qui conjugue et combine les différents angles évoqués de la protection.

 

The wine-growing areas, especially in vineyards with appellation of controlled origin, are now threatened by multiple attacks. These territories are not only the tool of wine production but also participate through the image of the vineyard they refer to the value-added wines. It is necessary to implement protective actions.
This article aims to demonstrate a practical way the various forms of protection of wine terroirs. From concrete examples developed in the vineyards of the Cotes du Rhone, the authors discuss the realities of procedures performed and their combination.
The protection of terroirs of the Côtes du Rhône AOC will be discussed in terms of :
The AOC : operating efficiencies and limitations ;
Legal protection : existing approaches, managed by the service of protection of the terroirs of SGVRCDR (Organization of Defence and Management of AOC area), but the gaps encountered;
Landscape protection : through agricultural and landscape zoning of more than forty communes of the appellation area for 5 years, which raises the question of its translation into planning documents and more broadly of a horizontal approach and shared landscapes of vineyards (cf. Charter of the International Wine Landscapes Fontevraud) ;
Environmental protection : through actions and practices, individual or collective, oriented towards sustainability and the sustainability of viticulture (vineyards and wine businesses).
A study is underway to diagnose existing initiatives and develop a strategic plan for the future;
Territorial protection : a continuous watch that most often leads to consultation meetings with communities, a process essential to the political recognition of the value of wine terroirs.
Finally, the results obtained so far led the authors to question the real effectiveness of the level of protection achieved. They say they need to develop a horizontal approach, which combines and combines different angles evoked protection.

DOI:

Publication date: December 3, 2021

Issue: Terroir 2010

Type: Article

Authors

B. RODRIGUEZ LOVELLE (1), L. FABBRI (2), A. PUJOL (3)

(1,3) Syndicat Général des Vignerons Réunis des Côtes du Rhône

(1) Service technique – Institut Rhodanien – 2260 Rte. du Grès – 84100 Orange (France)

(3) Service protection des terroirs – Maison des Vins – 6 rue des Trois Faucons – 84000 Avignon (France)

(2) Territoires & Paysages – Hôtel d’entreprises – 10 av. de la Croix Rouge – 84000 Avignon (France)

Contact the author

Keywords

Terroir, aménagement du territoire, protection juridique, paysage, potentiel de production, AOC, Côtes du Rhône, zonage
« Terroir », territory planning, legal protection, landscape, production potential, appellation of controlled origin, « Côtes du Rhône », zoning

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2010

Citation

Related articles…

A spatial explicit inventory of EU wine protected designation of origin to support decision making in a changing climate

Winemaking areas recognized as protected designations of origin (PDOs) shape important economic, environmental and cultural values that are tied to closely defined geographic locations. To preserve wine products and wine-growing practices adopted in different PDOs these areas are strictly regulated by legal specifications. However, quality viticulture is increasingly under pressure from climate change, which is altering the local conditions of many winegrowing areas. Therefore, maintaining traditional wine products will require the adoption of tailored adaptation strategies, including possible changes in the legal regulation of protected wines. To this end, it is necessary to have a comprehensive knowledge on PDOs including their extension, products and allowed practices. While there have been efforts to build databases that summarize the characteristics for individual wine PDO areas and to quantify the related effects of climate change, much information is still included only in the official documentation of the EU geographical indication register and has never been collected in a comprehensive manner. With this study we aim at filling this gap by building a spatial inventory of European wine PDOs that supports decision making in viticulture in the context of climate change. To map and characterize European wine PDOs, we analysed their legal documents and extracted relevant information useful for climate change adaptation. The output consists of a comprehensive geographical dataset that identifies the boundaries of all 1200 European wine PDOs at unprecedented spatial resolution and includes a set of legally binding regulations, such as authorized vine varieties, maximum yields and planting density. The inventory will allow researchers to analyse the impacts of climate change on European wine PDOs and support decision makers in developing tailored adaptation strategies. This includes, among others, the evaluation of new vineyard site selection, the expansion of cultivated varieties or the authorization of irrigation in vineyards.

Elucidating vineyard site contributions to key sensory molecules: Identification of correlations between elemental composition and volatile aroma profile of site-specific Pinot noir wines

The reproducibility of elemental profile in wines produced across multiple vintages has been previously reported using grapes from a single scion clone of Vitis vinifera L. cv. Pinot noir. The grapevines were grown on fourteen different vineyard sites, from Oregon to southern California in the U.S.A., which span distances from approximately hundreds of meters to 1450 km, while elevations range from near sea level to nearly 500 m. In addition, sensorial (i.e. aroma, taste, and mouthfeel) and chemical (i.e. polyphenolic and volatile) differences across the different vineyard sites have also been observed among these wines at two aging time points. While strong evidence exists to support that grapes grown in different regions can produce wines with unique chemical and sensorial profiles, even when a single clone is used, the understanding of growing site characteristics that result in this reproducible differentiation continues to emerge. One hypothesis is that the elemental profile that a vineyard site imparts to the grape berries and the resulting wine is an important contributor to this differentiation in chemistry and sensory of wines. For example, various classes of enzymes that catalyze the formation of key aroma compounds or their precursors require specific metals. In this work, we begin to report correlations between elemental and volatile aroma profiles of site-specific Pinot noir wines, made under standardized winemaking conditions, that have been previously shown to be distinguished separately by these chemical analyses.

Measurement of redox potential as a new analytical winegrowing tool

Excell laboratory has initiated the development of an analytical method based on electrochemistry to evaluate the ability of wines to undergo or resist to oxidative phenomena. Electrochemistry is a powerful tool to probe reactions involving electron transfers and offers possibility of real-time measurements. In that context, the laboratory has implemented electrochemical analysis to assess oxidation state of different wine matrices but also in order to evaluate oxidative or reduced character of leaf and soil. Initially, our laboratory focused on dosage of compounds involved in responses of plant stresses and we were also interested in microbiological activity of soils. These analyses were compared with the measurement of redox potential (Eh) and pH which are two fundamental variables involved in the modulation of plant metabolism. Indeed, the variation of redox states of the plant reflects its biological activity but also its capacity to absorb nutriments. The Eh-pH conditions mainly determine metabolic processes involved in soil and leaf and our goal is to determine if this combined analytical approach will be sufficiently precise to detect biological evolutions (plant health, parasitic attack…).

austrianvineyards.com: online viewer of all designations of Austrian wine

To digitally record and present all the origins of Austrian wines in the same perfect and clear way was the motivation for the Austrian Wine Marketing Board (Austrian Wine) to start with the project in 2018. In June 2021 the results were presented to the public in an online viewer showing all the designations of Austrian wine, available at https://austrianvineyards.com in a largely barrier-free manner. The online viewer provides tailored individual maps fitted to the respective zoom level. The smallest unit of wine-origins in Austria is called Ried and is displayed in a plot-specific manner highlighting areas under vine. Information on the Ried include administrative district, winegrowing municipality, cadastral municipality, large collective vineyard site, specific winegrowing region, generic winegrowing region, winegrowing area and, in many cases, an illustrative picture. Complementary data on the size, elevation (minimum-maximum), orientation (in 8 sectors plus flat) and gradient (minimum, maximum, average) are based on the area under vine according to the EU’s Integrated Administration and Control System. Additional information covers climate data. The diagrams are taken from the monthly breakdown of data in the annals of the Central Institute for Meteorology and Geodynamics, Austria provide a display of values for air temperature, precipitation, and sunshine hours for the reference year and the long-term average. Seasonal aggregated data on temperature, precipitation, and sunshine hours complete the display. Short descriptions with emphasis on geology and soil, field name in historical maps, etymology of the denomination, and main planted variety complements the available information for the main designations in the online viewer. These descriptions are compiled by winegrowers, geologists, historians, and journalists. All the information and data can be extracted to a pdf-file. Printed vineyard maps are also available. Missing content regarding wine origins in Styria will be completed in winter 2021/22.

Influence of weather and climatic conditions on the viticultural production in Croatia

The research includes an analysis of the impact of weather conditions on phenological development of the vine and grape quality, through monitoring of four experimental cultivars (Chardonnay, Graševina, Merlot and Plavac mali) over two production years. In each experimental vineyard, which were evenly distributed throughout the regions of Slavonia and The Croatian Danube, Croatian Uplands,