Elementi in traccia e ultratraccia nell’uva: possibili applicazioni ai fini della tracciabilità geografica

AIM: Stalks are empirically known to bring many benefits to the wine such as alcoholic reduction, color protection or improvement of the tannic intensity. Not much used on Swiss grape varieties, the aim of this study was to identify the relevance of using this type of winemaking in the case of Gamay and Gamaret red grape varieties.

Varietal thiols 3-sulfanylhexan-1-ol (3SH), 3-sulfanylhexyl acetate (3SHA) and 4-methyl-4-sulfanylpentan-2-one (4SMP) are essential for fruity aromas of Sauvignon Blanc wines. The concentration of varietal thiols in wines was thought to be related to the concentration of their precursors in grapes, however only a small proportion of precursors are released to varietal thiols during fermentation. New findings suggested that specific grape juice metabolites could significantly impact on the development of three major varietal thiols and other aroma compounds of Sauvignon Blanc wines.

In Portugal, the prospection and conservation of representative samples of intra-varietal variability of grapevine has been carried out for 46 years, and in 2010 an infrastructure was created for the conservation of all these genetic resources – the portuguese association for grapevine diversity (porvid) experimental centre for the conservation of grapevine diversity. the aim is to save the genetic identity of ancient varieties to prevent their imminent loss and to preserve the raw material for current and future selections, thus adding economic value and sustainability to the vine and wine sector.

Developing rootstocks adapted to environmental constraints constitutes a key lever for grapevine adaptation to climate change. In this context, Near Infrared Spectroscopy (NIRS) could be used as a high-throughput phenotyping technique to simplify the study of rootstocks in grafted situations. This study is an exploratory analysis to evaluate the potential of NIRS acquired on grafted tissues to reveal rootstock effects as well as the plasticity of combinations of scion/rootstock to better characterize these interactions.
Through the study of 25 combinations (5 scions times 5 rootstocks) in a dedicated experimental vineyard, we showed that NIRS obtained from grafted tissues capture rootstock and scion/rootstock interaction signals, up to 20% of the total variance at specific wavelengths.

The OIV[i] defines terroir as a concept referring to an area in which collective knowledge of the interactions between the physical and biological environment (soil, topography, climate, landscape characteristics and biodiversity features) and vitivinicultural practices develops, providing distinctive wine characteristics. Those are perceptible in the taste of wine, which drives consumer preference and, therefore, wine’s value in the marketplace. Geographical indications (GI) are recognized regulatory constructs formalizing and protecting the nexus between wine taste and the terroir generating it. Despite considering updates, GIs do not consider the nexus as a dynamic one and do not anticipate change, namely of climate. Being climate a fundamental feature of terroir, it strongly impacts wine characteristics, such as taste. According to IPCC[ii], many widespread, rapid and unprecedented changes of climate occurred, some being irreversible over hundreds to thousands of years. Climatic shifts and atmospheric-driven extreme events have been widely reported worldwide. Recent climatic trends are projected to strengthen in upcoming decades, whereas extremes are expected to increase in frequency and intensity, forcing wines away from GI definitions. Geographical shifts of viticultural suitability are projected, often moving into regions and countries different from current ones. Some authors propose adaptation in viticulture, winemaking and product innovation. We show evidence of climate changing wine characteristics in the Douro valley, home of 270-year-old Port GI. We discuss herein resist or adapt stances for when climate changes the nexus between terroir and wine characteristics. Using the MED-GOLD[iii] dashboard, a tool allowing for easy visual navigation of past and future climates, we demonstrate how policymakers can identify future moments, throughout the 21st century under different emission scenarios, when GI specifications will likely need updates (e.g., boundaries, varieties) to reduce climate-change impacts.