Terroir 2010 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 The landscape of wine as an expression of cultural transversality

The landscape of wine as an expression of cultural transversality

Abstract

[English version below]

Il mondo del vino si è accorto che per la sua comprensione, valorizzazione e promozione è fondamentale conoscere le ragioni geologiche del vino, valutare il suo impatto sul paesaggio e acquisire il suo valore emozionale. Si aprono, pertanto, nuovi orientamenti culturali nella gestione enologico-enografica dei luoghi del vino: geologia e vino, geografia emozionale, il paesaggio d’arte nelle aree DOC/DOCG, il ruolo geologico nell’etichetta, ecc. sono i valori aggiunti al terroir nella conoscenza e comunicazione del vino. Il paesaggio del vino è un paesaggio emozionale che racconta la storia geologica dei luoghi alla base delle caratteristiche organolettiche dei vini ed espressione di quel paesaggio geologico del passato che oggi è invisibile, ma il cui ruolo è stato fondamentale per l’evoluzione di un determinato terroir.
Nel Grand Tour dell’800, inoltre, il Viaggio in Italia di Goethe è un percorso letterario ed artistico attraverso anche i paesaggi del vino che diventano il filo conduttore nella narrazione dei luoghi. Tutto questo rientra in quella trasversalità culturale che vede coinvolti scienziati, pittori, poeti, scrittori, ecc. in un ambito disciplinare, solo apparentemente di settore, ma assolutamente condivisibile e proprio per questo di grande impatto culturale.
Il terroir, quindi, va oltre le sue usuali definizioni tecniche, e coinvolge ambiti disciplinari diversi per una sua acquisizione e visione sempre più ampia e integrata.

The world of wine has come to realize that for its understanding, appreciation and promotion is it crucial to foster knowledge on the “geological reasons” of wine, to evaluate its impact on the landscape, and to acquire its emotional value. The roads of wine cannot be divorced from the geological and geo-morphological features of the terroirs within the DOC/DOCG areas, from the local cultural values and local traditions, from the emotions of the places, and from a variery of elements and parameters that can reach far from the vineyard the cellars.Thus, new cultural trends open up for the enologic and oenographic management of wine sites: the geology and wine, the emotional geography, the Fine Arts landscape of the DOC/DOCG areas, the geological information of the label, etc., are all added values to the terroir that pave the way to new scenarios for the knowledge and communication of wine. The landscape of wine is an expression of the past geological landscape, which is invisible today but played a fundamental role in the evolution of a given terroir. The wine landscape is an emotional landscape that tells the geological history underlying the characteristic organoleptic features of the wines; it is a specific and characteristic environmental scenario that is appreciated by the “geological reasons” of wine and by new compelling contents. In the 1800’s Grand Tour, for example, Goethe’s trip to Italy is a literary and artistic path that winds not only through the natural and monumental landscapes of the peninsula, but also through the landscapes of wine, associated to that historic moment of Italy as a thread in the narrative of places.All of the above fits a cultural transversality that spans scientists, painters, poets, writers, etc., in a disciplinary context that is only apparently sectorial, and that can be rather shared very successfully, achieving an extensive cultural impact. The terroir, thus, goes beyond its usual technical definition and involves various disciplinary areas contributing to its acquisition and to an increasingly broad and integrated vision.

DOI:

Publication date: December 3, 2021

Issue: Terroir 2010

Type : Article

Authors

Lucilia Gregori

Department of Earth Sciences, University of Perugia
Piazza Università 1, 06123 Perugia, ITALY

Contact the author

Keywords

Geomorphology, landscape, terroir

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2010

Citation

Related articles…

Long-term drought resilience of traditional red grapevine varieties from a semi-arid region

In recent decades, the scarcity of water resources in agriculture in certain areas has been aggravated by climate change, which has caused an increase in temperatures, changes in rainfall patterns, as well as an increase in the frequency of extreme phenomena such as droughts and heat waves. Although the vine is considered a drought-tolerant specie, it has to satisfy important water requirements to complete its cycle, which coincides with the hottest and driest months. Achieving sustainable viticulture in this scenario requires high levels of efficiency in the use of water, a scarce resource whose use is expected to be severely restricted in the near future. In this regard, the use of drought-tolerant varieties that are able to maintain grape yield and quality could be an effective strategy to face this change. During three consecutive seasons (2018-2020) the behavior in rainfed regime of 13 traditional red grapevine varieties of the Spain central region was studied. These varieties were cultivated in a collection at Centro de Investigación de la Vid y el Vino de Castilla-La Mancha (IVICAM-IRIAF) located in Tomelloso (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain). Yield components (yield, mean bunch and berry weight, pruning weight), physicochemical parameters of the musts (brix degree, total acidity, pH) and some physiological parameters related with water stress during ripening period (δ13C, δ18O) were analysed. The application of different statistical techniques to the results showed the existence of significant differences between varieties in their response to stressful conditions. A few varieties highlighted for their high ability to adapt to drought, being able to maintain high yields due to their efficiency in the use of water. In addition, it was possible quantify to what extent climate can be a determinant in the δ18O of musts under severe water stress conditions.

Mechanisms involved in the heating of the environment by the aerodynamic action of a wind machine to protect a vineyard against spring frost

One of the main consequences of global warming is the rise of the mean temperature. Thus, the heat summation by the plants begins sooner in the early spring, and by cumulating growing degree-days, phenological development tends to happen earlier. However, spring frost is still a recurrent phenomenon causing serious damages to buds and therefore, threatening the harvests of the winegrowers. The wind machine is a solution to protect fruit crops against spring frost that is increasingly used. It is composed of a 10-m mast with a blowing fan at its peak. By tapping into the strength of the nocturnal thermal inversion, it sweeps the crop by propelling warm air above to the ground. Thus, stratification is momentarily suppressed. Furthermore, the continuous action of the machine, alone or in synergy, or the addition of a heater allow the bud to be bathed in a warmer environment. Also, the punctual action of the tower’s warm gust reaches the bud directly at each rotation period. All these actions allow the bud to continuously warm up, but with different intensities and over a different period. Although there is evidence of the effectiveness of the wind machines, the thermal transfers involved in those mechanisms raise questions about their true nature. Field measurements based on ultrasonic anemometers and fast responding thermocouples complemented by laboratory measurements on a reduced scale model allow to characterize both the airflow produced by the wind machine and the local temperature in its vicinity. Those experiments were realized in the vineyard of Quincy, in the framework of the SICTAG project. In the future paper, we will detail the aeraulic characterization of the wind machine and the thermal effects resulting from it and we will focus on how the wind machine warms up the local atmosphere and enables to reduce the freezing risk.

Climate and the evolving mix of grape varieties in Australia’s wine regions

The purpose of this study is to examine the changing mix of winegrape varieties in Australia so as to address the question: In the light of key climate indicators and predictions of further climate change, how appropriate are the grape varieties currently planted in Australia’s wine regions? To achieve this, regions are classified into zones according to each region’s climate variables, particularly average growing season temperature (GST), leaving aside within-region variations in climates. Five different climatic classifications are reported. Using projections of GSTs for the mid- and late 21st century, the extent to which each region is projected to move from its current zone classification to a warmer one is reported. Also shown is the changing proportion of each of 21 key varieties grown in a GST zone considered to be optimal for premium winegrape production. Together these indicators strengthen earlier suggestions that the mix of varieties may be currently less than ideal in many Australian wine regions, and would become even less so in coming decades if that mix was not altered in the anticipation of climate change. That is, grape varieties in many (especially the warmest) regions will have to keep changing, or wineries will have to seek fruit from higher latitudes or elevations if they wish to retain their current mix of varieties and wine styles.

Photoselective shade films affect grapevine berry secondary metabolism and wine composition

Grapevine physiology and production are challenged by forecasted increases in temperature and water deficits. Within this scenario, photoselective overhead shade films are promising tools in warm viticulture areas to overcome climate change related factors. The aim of this study was to evaluate the vulnerability of ‘Cabernet Sauvignon’ grape berry to solar radiation overexposure and optimize shade film use for berry integrity. A randomized complete block design field study was conducted across two years (2020-2021) in Oakville, Napa Valley, CA, with four shade films (D1, D3, D4, D5) differing in the percent of radiation spectra transmitted and compared to an uncovered control (C0). Integrals for gas exchange parameters and mid-day stem water potential were unaffected by the shade films in 2020 and 2021. By harvest, berries from uncovered and shaded vines did not differ in their size or primary metabolism in either year. Despite precipitation exclusion during the dormant season in the shaded treatments, yield did not differ between them and the control in either season. In 2020, total skin anthocyanins (mg/g fresh mass) in the shaded treatments was greater than C0 during berry ripening and at harvest. Conversely, flavonol concentrations in 2020 were reduced in shaded vines compared to C0. The 2020 growing season highlighted the impact of heat degradation on flavonoids. Flavonoid concentrations in 2021 increased until harvest while flavonoid degradation was apparent from veraison to harvest in 2020 across shaded and control vines. Wine analyses highlighted the importance of light spectra to modify wine composition. Wine color intensity, tonality and anthocyanin values were enhanced in D4 whereas antioxidant properties were enhanced in C0 and D5 wines. Altogether, our results highlighted the need of new approaches in warm viticulture areas given the impact that composition of light has on berry and wine quality.

Spatial variability of temperature is linked to grape composition variability in the Saint-Emilion winegrowing area

Elevated temperature during the grape maturation period is a major threat for grape quality and thus wine quality. Therefore, characterizing the grape composition response to temperature at a larger scale would represent a crucial step towards adaptation to climate change. In response to changes in temperature, various physiological mechanisms regulate grape composition. Primary and secondary metabolisms are both involved in this response, with well-known effects, for example on anthocyanins, and lesser known effects, for example on aromas or aroma precursors. At the field scale or at the regional scale, however, numerous environmental or plant-specific factors intervene to make the effects of temperature difficult to distinguish from overall variability. In this study, it was attempted to overcome this difficulty by selecting well-characterized situations with differing temperatures.
A long-term study of air temperature variability across several Merlot vineyards in the Saint-Emilion and Pomerol wine producing area found significant temperature differences and gradients at various time scales linked to environmental factors. From this study area, a few sites were selected with similar age, soil and training system conditions, and with repeated and contrasted temperature differences during the maturation period. The average temperature difference during the maturation period was about 2°C between cooler and warmer sites, a difference similar to that expected under future climate change scenarios. In close vicinity to the temperature sensors at each site, grape berries were sampled at different times until full maturity during 2019 and 2020. Also, berries from bunches on either side of the row were analyzed separately, allowing an investigation of bunch exposure effect associated with the coupling of berry temperature and solar radiation. Four replicates of pooled berries for each time – site – bunch exposure combination were obtained and analyzed for biochemical composition. Analyses of variance of the biochemical composition data collected at different sampling times reveal significant effects associated with temperature, site, and bunch azimuth. For instance, anthocyanins in grape skins are clearly influenced by temperature and solar radiation exposure, with up to 30% reduction in warmer conditions.