Terroir 2010 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 The landscape of wine as an expression of cultural transversality

The landscape of wine as an expression of cultural transversality

Abstract

[English version below]

Il mondo del vino si è accorto che per la sua comprensione, valorizzazione e promozione è fondamentale conoscere le ragioni geologiche del vino, valutare il suo impatto sul paesaggio e acquisire il suo valore emozionale. Si aprono, pertanto, nuovi orientamenti culturali nella gestione enologico-enografica dei luoghi del vino: geologia e vino, geografia emozionale, il paesaggio d’arte nelle aree DOC/DOCG, il ruolo geologico nell’etichetta, ecc. sono i valori aggiunti al terroir nella conoscenza e comunicazione del vino. Il paesaggio del vino è un paesaggio emozionale che racconta la storia geologica dei luoghi alla base delle caratteristiche organolettiche dei vini ed espressione di quel paesaggio geologico del passato che oggi è invisibile, ma il cui ruolo è stato fondamentale per l’evoluzione di un determinato terroir.
Nel Grand Tour dell’800, inoltre, il Viaggio in Italia di Goethe è un percorso letterario ed artistico attraverso anche i paesaggi del vino che diventano il filo conduttore nella narrazione dei luoghi. Tutto questo rientra in quella trasversalità culturale che vede coinvolti scienziati, pittori, poeti, scrittori, ecc. in un ambito disciplinare, solo apparentemente di settore, ma assolutamente condivisibile e proprio per questo di grande impatto culturale.
Il terroir, quindi, va oltre le sue usuali definizioni tecniche, e coinvolge ambiti disciplinari diversi per una sua acquisizione e visione sempre più ampia e integrata.

The world of wine has come to realize that for its understanding, appreciation and promotion is it crucial to foster knowledge on the “geological reasons” of wine, to evaluate its impact on the landscape, and to acquire its emotional value. The roads of wine cannot be divorced from the geological and geo-morphological features of the terroirs within the DOC/DOCG areas, from the local cultural values and local traditions, from the emotions of the places, and from a variery of elements and parameters that can reach far from the vineyard the cellars.Thus, new cultural trends open up for the enologic and oenographic management of wine sites: the geology and wine, the emotional geography, the Fine Arts landscape of the DOC/DOCG areas, the geological information of the label, etc., are all added values to the terroir that pave the way to new scenarios for the knowledge and communication of wine. The landscape of wine is an expression of the past geological landscape, which is invisible today but played a fundamental role in the evolution of a given terroir. The wine landscape is an emotional landscape that tells the geological history underlying the characteristic organoleptic features of the wines; it is a specific and characteristic environmental scenario that is appreciated by the “geological reasons” of wine and by new compelling contents. In the 1800’s Grand Tour, for example, Goethe’s trip to Italy is a literary and artistic path that winds not only through the natural and monumental landscapes of the peninsula, but also through the landscapes of wine, associated to that historic moment of Italy as a thread in the narrative of places.All of the above fits a cultural transversality that spans scientists, painters, poets, writers, etc., in a disciplinary context that is only apparently sectorial, and that can be rather shared very successfully, achieving an extensive cultural impact. The terroir, thus, goes beyond its usual technical definition and involves various disciplinary areas contributing to its acquisition and to an increasingly broad and integrated vision.

DOI:

Publication date: December 3, 2021

Issue: Terroir 2010

Type : Article

Authors

Lucilia Gregori

Department of Earth Sciences, University of Perugia
Piazza Università 1, 06123 Perugia, ITALY

Contact the author

Keywords

Geomorphology, landscape, terroir

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2010

Citation

Related articles…

Long-term drought resilience of traditional red grapevine varieties from a semi-arid region

In recent decades, the scarcity of water resources in agriculture in certain areas has been aggravated by climate change, which has caused an increase in temperatures, changes in rainfall patterns, as well as an increase in the frequency of extreme phenomena such as droughts and heat waves. Although the vine is considered a drought-tolerant specie, it has to satisfy important water requirements to complete its cycle, which coincides with the hottest and driest months. Achieving sustainable viticulture in this scenario requires high levels of efficiency in the use of water, a scarce resource whose use is expected to be severely restricted in the near future. In this regard, the use of drought-tolerant varieties that are able to maintain grape yield and quality could be an effective strategy to face this change. During three consecutive seasons (2018-2020) the behavior in rainfed regime of 13 traditional red grapevine varieties of the Spain central region was studied. These varieties were cultivated in a collection at Centro de Investigación de la Vid y el Vino de Castilla-La Mancha (IVICAM-IRIAF) located in Tomelloso (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain). Yield components (yield, mean bunch and berry weight, pruning weight), physicochemical parameters of the musts (brix degree, total acidity, pH) and some physiological parameters related with water stress during ripening period (δ13C, δ18O) were analysed. The application of different statistical techniques to the results showed the existence of significant differences between varieties in their response to stressful conditions. A few varieties highlighted for their high ability to adapt to drought, being able to maintain high yields due to their efficiency in the use of water. In addition, it was possible quantify to what extent climate can be a determinant in the δ18O of musts under severe water stress conditions.

Second pruning as a strategy to delay maturation in cv. ‘Touriga nacional’ in the Portuguese Douro region

The advance in maturation of wine grapes is an important climate change risk related effect that could affect warm regions like Portuguese Douro Wine Region. Indeed, the climate analysis over the past years registered a decrease in the precipitation, significant higher average temperatures, and a more frequent occurrence of extreme weather events, including heat waves. In these conditions the length from anthesis until maturation is shortened and the uncoupling of technical and phenolic maturity results in berries with higher sugar concentration (and lower acidity), but lower anthocyanins, tannins, and total phenolic concentration, which produce unbalanced wines.
In this work, an innovative strategy of crop forcing, based on forcing vine regrowth after a second pruning of green shoots, was tested, aimed at delaying ripening until the temperature becomes lower and, therefore, preventing acidity loss and increasing anthocyanin-to-sugar ratio. The experiments were conducted in 2019 and 2020 in a commercial vineyard of ‘Touriga Nacional’ located in the Douro Region. Crop forcing was conducted 15 (CF1) to 30 (CF2) days after fruit set. Vines pruned with conventional methods were used as control (CF0). Results confirmed that fruit ripening was shifted from the hot season (August/September), until a cooler period (October through early-November). At harvest, grapevine berries from CF1 and CF2 presented lower pH and higher acidity, than control, with no significant differences in colour intensity and phenolic levels composition. Sugar content was lower in CF2-treated vines in both seasons. However, in CF-treated vines the number and size of clusters were significantly lower (up to 88% reduction) than in control plants. A metabolomics analysis of mature berries from CF-treated vines and control is underway. Crop forcing was indeed effective in producing a more balance berry composition but severely reduced grapevine yield,

Climate modeling at local scale in the Waipara winegrowing region in the climate change context

In viticulture, a warming climate can have a very significant impact on grapevine development and therefore on the quality and characteristics of wines across different spatial scales, ranging from global to local. In order to adapt wine-growing to climate change, global climate models can be used to define future scenarios, but only at the scale of major wine regions. Despite the huge progress made over the last ten years in terms of the spatial resolution of climate models (now downscaled to a few square kilometres), they are not yet sufficiently precise to account for the local climate variability associated with such parameters as local topography, in spite of these parameters being decisive for vine and wine characteristics. This study describes a method to downscale future climate scenarios to vineyard scale. Networks of data loggers have been used to collect air temperature at canopy level in the Waipara winegrowing region (New Zealand) over five growing seasons. These measurements allow the creation of fine-scale geostatistical models and maps of temperature (at 100 m resolution) for the growing season. In order to model climate change at pilot site scale, these geostatistical models have been combined with regional climate change predictions for the periods 2031-2050 and 2081-2100 based on the RCP8.5 climate change scenario. The integration of local climate variability with regionalized climate change simulations allows assessment of the impacts of climate change at the vineyard scale. The improved knowledge gained using this methodology results from the increased horizontal resolution that better addresses the concerns of winegrowers. The results provide the local winegrowers with information necessary to understand current processes, as well as historical and future viticulture trends at the scale of their site, thereby facilitating decisions about future response strategies.

Co-design and evaluation of spatially explicit strategies of adaptation to climate change in a Mediterranean watershed

Climate change challenges differently wine growing systems, depending on their biophysical, sociological and economic features. Therefore, there is a need to locally design and evaluate adaptation strategies combining several technical options, and considering the local opportunities and constraints (e.g. water access, wine typicity). The case study took place in a typical and heterogeneous Mediterranean vineyard of 1,500 ha in the South of France. We developed a participatory modeling approach to (1) conceptualize local climate change issues and design spatially explicit adaptation strategies with stakeholders, (2) numerically evaluate their effects on phenology, yield and irrigation needs under the high-emissions climate change scenario RCP 8.5, and (3) collectively discuss simulation results. We organized five sets of workshops, with in-between modeling phases. A process-based model was developed that allowed to evaluate the effects of six technical options (late varieties, irrigation, water saving by reducing canopy size, adjusting cover cropping, reducing density, and shading) with various distributions in the watershed, as well as vineyard relocation. Overall, we co-designed three adaptation strategies. Delay harvest strategy with late varieties showed little effects on decreasing air temperature during ripening. Water constraint limitation strategy would compensate for production losses if disruptive adaptations (e.g. reduced density) were adopted, and more land got access to irrigation. Relocation strategy would foster high premium wine production in the constrained mountainous areas where grapevine is less impacted by climate change. This research shows that a spatial distribution of technical changes gives room for adaptation to climate change, and that the collaboration with local stakeholders is a key to the identification of relevant adaptation. Further research should explore the potential of adaptation strategies based on soil quality improvement and on water stress tolerant varieties.

The impact of leaf canopy management on eco-physiology, wood chemical properties and microbial communities in root, trunk and cordon of Riesling grapevines (Vitis vinifera L.)

In the last decades, climate change required already adaptation of vineyard management. Increase in temperature and unexpected weather events cause changes in all phenological stages requiring new management tools. For example, defoliation can be a useful tool to reduce the sugar content in the berries creating differences in the wine profiles. In a ten-year field experiment using Riesling (Vitis vinifera L, planted 1986, Geisenheim, Germany), various mechanical defoliation strategies and different intensities were trialed until 2016 before the vineyard was uprooted. Wood was sampled from the plant compartments root, trunk, cordon and shoot for analyses of physicochemical properties (e.g. lignin and element content, pH, diameter), nonstructural carbohydrates and the microbial communities. The aim of the study was to investigate the influence of reduced canopy leaf area on the sink-source allocation into different compartments and potential changes of the fungal and prokaryotic wood-inhabiting community using a metabarcoding approach. Severe summer pruning (SSP) of the canopy and mechanical defoliation (MDC) above the bunch zone decreased the leaf area by 50% compared to control (C). SSP reduced the photosynthetic capacity, which resulted in an altered source-sink allocation and carbohydrate storage. With lower leaf area, less carbohydrates are allocated. This for example resulted in a decreased trunk diameter. Further, it affected the composition of the grapevine wood microbiota. SSP and MDC management changed significantly the prokaryotic community composition in wood of the root samples, but had no effect in other compartments. In general, this study found strong compartment and less management effects of the microbial community composition and associated physicochemical properties. The highest microbial diversities were identified in the wood of the trunk, and several species were recorded the first time in grapevine.