Terroir 2010 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 The landscape of wine as an expression of cultural transversality

The landscape of wine as an expression of cultural transversality

Abstract

[English version below]

Il mondo del vino si è accorto che per la sua comprensione, valorizzazione e promozione è fondamentale conoscere le ragioni geologiche del vino, valutare il suo impatto sul paesaggio e acquisire il suo valore emozionale. Si aprono, pertanto, nuovi orientamenti culturali nella gestione enologico-enografica dei luoghi del vino: geologia e vino, geografia emozionale, il paesaggio d’arte nelle aree DOC/DOCG, il ruolo geologico nell’etichetta, ecc. sono i valori aggiunti al terroir nella conoscenza e comunicazione del vino. Il paesaggio del vino è un paesaggio emozionale che racconta la storia geologica dei luoghi alla base delle caratteristiche organolettiche dei vini ed espressione di quel paesaggio geologico del passato che oggi è invisibile, ma il cui ruolo è stato fondamentale per l’evoluzione di un determinato terroir.
Nel Grand Tour dell’800, inoltre, il Viaggio in Italia di Goethe è un percorso letterario ed artistico attraverso anche i paesaggi del vino che diventano il filo conduttore nella narrazione dei luoghi. Tutto questo rientra in quella trasversalità culturale che vede coinvolti scienziati, pittori, poeti, scrittori, ecc. in un ambito disciplinare, solo apparentemente di settore, ma assolutamente condivisibile e proprio per questo di grande impatto culturale.
Il terroir, quindi, va oltre le sue usuali definizioni tecniche, e coinvolge ambiti disciplinari diversi per una sua acquisizione e visione sempre più ampia e integrata.

The world of wine has come to realize that for its understanding, appreciation and promotion is it crucial to foster knowledge on the “geological reasons” of wine, to evaluate its impact on the landscape, and to acquire its emotional value. The roads of wine cannot be divorced from the geological and geo-morphological features of the terroirs within the DOC/DOCG areas, from the local cultural values and local traditions, from the emotions of the places, and from a variery of elements and parameters that can reach far from the vineyard the cellars.Thus, new cultural trends open up for the enologic and oenographic management of wine sites: the geology and wine, the emotional geography, the Fine Arts landscape of the DOC/DOCG areas, the geological information of the label, etc., are all added values to the terroir that pave the way to new scenarios for the knowledge and communication of wine. The landscape of wine is an expression of the past geological landscape, which is invisible today but played a fundamental role in the evolution of a given terroir. The wine landscape is an emotional landscape that tells the geological history underlying the characteristic organoleptic features of the wines; it is a specific and characteristic environmental scenario that is appreciated by the “geological reasons” of wine and by new compelling contents. In the 1800’s Grand Tour, for example, Goethe’s trip to Italy is a literary and artistic path that winds not only through the natural and monumental landscapes of the peninsula, but also through the landscapes of wine, associated to that historic moment of Italy as a thread in the narrative of places.All of the above fits a cultural transversality that spans scientists, painters, poets, writers, etc., in a disciplinary context that is only apparently sectorial, and that can be rather shared very successfully, achieving an extensive cultural impact. The terroir, thus, goes beyond its usual technical definition and involves various disciplinary areas contributing to its acquisition and to an increasingly broad and integrated vision.

DOI:

Publication date: December 3, 2021

Issue: Terroir 2010

Type : Article

Authors

Lucilia Gregori

Department of Earth Sciences, University of Perugia
Piazza Università 1, 06123 Perugia, ITALY

Contact the author

Keywords

Geomorphology, landscape, terroir

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2010

Citation

Related articles…

The potential of multispectral/hyperspectral technologies for early detection of “flavescence dorée” in a Portuguese vineyard

“Flavescence dorée” (FD) is a grapevine quarantine disease associated with phytoplasmas and transmitted to healthy plants by insect vectors, mainly Scaphoideus titanus. Infected plants usually develop symptoms of stunted growth, unripe cane wood, leaf rolling, leaf yellowing or reddening, and shrivelled berries. Since plants can remain symptomless up to four years, they may act as reservoirs of FD contributing to the spread of the disease. So far, conventional management strategies rely mainly on the insecticide treatments, uprooting of infected plants and use of phytoplasma-free propagation material. However, these strategies are costly and could have undesirable environmental impacts. Thus, the development of sustainable and noninvasive approaches for early detection of FD and its management are of great importance to reduce disease spread and select the best cultural practices and treatments. The present study aimed to evaluate if multispectral/hyperspectral technologies can be used to detect FD before the appearance of the first symptoms and if infected grapevines display a spectral imaging fingerprint. To that end, physiological parameters (leaf area, chlorophyll content and photosynthetic rate) were collected in concomitance to the measurements of plant reflectance (using both a portable apparatus and a remote sensing drone). Measurements were performed in two leaves of 8 healthy and 8 FD-infected grapevines, at four timepoints: before the development of disease symptoms (21st June); and after symptoms appearance (ii) at veraison (2nd August); at post-veraison (11th September); and at harvest (25th September). At all timepoints, FD infected plants revealed a significant decrease in the studied physiological parameters, with a positive correlation with drone imaging data and portable apparatus analyses. Moreover, spectra of either drone imaging and portable apparatus showed clear differences between healthy and FD-infected grapevines, validating multispectral/ hyperspectral technology as a potential tool for the early detection of FD or other grapevine-associated diseases.

Long-term drought resilience of traditional red grapevine varieties from a semi-arid region

In recent decades, the scarcity of water resources in agriculture in certain areas has been aggravated by climate change, which has caused an increase in temperatures, changes in rainfall patterns, as well as an increase in the frequency of extreme phenomena such as droughts and heat waves. Although the vine is considered a drought-tolerant specie, it has to satisfy important water requirements to complete its cycle, which coincides with the hottest and driest months. Achieving sustainable viticulture in this scenario requires high levels of efficiency in the use of water, a scarce resource whose use is expected to be severely restricted in the near future. In this regard, the use of drought-tolerant varieties that are able to maintain grape yield and quality could be an effective strategy to face this change. During three consecutive seasons (2018-2020) the behavior in rainfed regime of 13 traditional red grapevine varieties of the Spain central region was studied. These varieties were cultivated in a collection at Centro de Investigación de la Vid y el Vino de Castilla-La Mancha (IVICAM-IRIAF) located in Tomelloso (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain). Yield components (yield, mean bunch and berry weight, pruning weight), physicochemical parameters of the musts (brix degree, total acidity, pH) and some physiological parameters related with water stress during ripening period (δ13C, δ18O) were analysed. The application of different statistical techniques to the results showed the existence of significant differences between varieties in their response to stressful conditions. A few varieties highlighted for their high ability to adapt to drought, being able to maintain high yields due to their efficiency in the use of water. In addition, it was possible quantify to what extent climate can be a determinant in the δ18O of musts under severe water stress conditions.

Effects of organic mulches on the soil environment and yield of grapevine

Farming management practices aiming at conserving soil moisture have been developed in arid and semiarid-areas facing water scarcity problems. Organic mulching is an effective method to manipulate the crop-growing microclimate increasing crop yield by controlling soil temperature, and retaining soil moisture by reducing soil evaporation. In this sense, the effectiveness of different organic mulching materials (straw mulch and grapevine pruning debris) applied within the row of a vineyard was evaluated on the soil and on the vine in a Tempranillo vineyard located in La Rioja (Spain). Organic mulches were compared with a traditional bare soil management technique (based on the use of herbicides to avoid weed incidence). Mulching coverages favourably influenced the soil water retention throughout all the grapevine vegetative cycle. However, the soil-moisture variation was not the same under different mulching materials, being the straw mulch (SM) the one that retained more water in comparison with grapevine pruning debris (GPD) based-cover. The changes of soil moisture in the upper surface layer (0–10 cm) were highly dynamic, probably due to water vapour fluxes across the soil-atmospheric interface. However, both, SM and GPD reduced these fluctuations as compared with bare soils. A similar trend occurred with soil temperature. Both organic mulches altered soil temperature in comparison with bare soil by reducing soil temperature in summer and raising it in winter. Moreover, the same buffering effect for the temperature on the covered soil also remains in the deeper layers. To conclude, we could see that organic mulching had a positive impact on soil-moisture storage and soil temperature and the extent of this effect depends on the type of mulching materials. These changes led to higher rates of photosynthesis and stomatal conductivity compared to bare soils, also favouring crop growth and grape yields.

Making sense of available information for climate change adaptation and building resilience into wine production systems across the world

Effects of climate change on viticulture systems and winemaking processes are being felt across the world. The IPCC 6thAssessment Report concluded widespread and rapid changes have occurred, the scale of recent changes being unprecedented over many centuries to many thousands of years. These changes will continue under all emission scenarios considered, including increases in frequency and intensity of hot extremes, heatwaves, heavy precipitation and droughts. Wine companies need tools and models allowing to peer into the future and identify the moment for intervention and measures for mitigation and/or avoidance. Previously, we presented conceptual guidelines for a 5-stage framework for defining adaptation strategies for wine businesses. That framework allows for direct comparison of different solutions to mitigate perceived climate change risks. Recent global climatic evolution and multiple reports of severe events since then (smoke taint, heatwave and droughts, frost, hail and floods, rising sea levels) imply urgency in providing effective tools to tackle the multiple perceived risks. A coordinated drive towards a higher level of resilience is therefore required. Recent publications such as the Australian Wine Future Climate Atlas and results from projects such as H2020 MED-GOLD inform on expected climate change impacts to the wine sector, foreseeing the climate to expect at regional and vineyard scale in coming decades. We present examples of practical application of the Climate Change Adaptation Framework (CCAF) to impacts affecting wine production in two wine regions: Barossa (Australia) and Douro (Portugal). We demonstrate feasibility of the framework for climate adaptation from available data and tools to estimate historical climate-induced profitability loss, to project it in the future and to identify critical moments when disruptions may occur if timely measures are not implemented. Finally, we discuss adaptation measures and respective timeframes for successful mitigation of disruptive risk while enhancing resilience of wine systems.

Sustaining wine identity through intra-varietal diversification

With contemporary climate change, cultivated Vitis vinifera L. is at risk as climate is a critical component in defining ecologically fitted plant materiel. While winegrowers can draw on the rich diversity among grapevine varieties to limit expected impacts (Morales-Castilla et al., 2020), replacing a signature variety that has created a sense of local distinctiveness may lead to several challenges. In order to sustain wine identity in uncertain climate outcomes, the study of intra-varietal diversity is important to reflect the adaptive and evolutionary potential of current cultivated varieties. The aim of this ongoing study is to understand to what extent can intra-varietal diversity be a climate change adaptation solution. With a focus on early (Sauvignon blanc, Riesling, Grolleau, Pinot noir) to moderate late (Chenin, Petit Verdot, Cabernet franc) ripening varieties, data was collected for flowering and veraison for the various studied accessions (from conservatory plots) and clones. For these phenological growing stages, heat requirements were established using nearby weather stations (adapted from the GFV model, Parker et al., 2013) and model performances were verified. Climate change projections were then integrated to predict the future behaviour of the intra-varietal diversity. Study findings highlight the strong phenotypic diversity of studied varieties and the importance of diversification to enhance climate change resilience. While model performances may require improvements, this study is the first step towards quantifying heat requirements of different clones and how they can provide adaptation solutions for winegrowers to sustain local wine identity in a global changing climate. As genetic diversity is an ongoing process through point mutations and epigenetic adaptations, perspective work is to explore clonal data from a wide variety of geographic locations.