Considerations about the concept of “terroir”: definition and research direction

Viticulture is facing two major changes – climate change and agroecological transition. In both cases, soil quality is seen as a lever to move towards a more sustainable viticulture. However, soil biological quality is little considered in the implementation of viticultural practices. Gascogn’Innov (2017-2022) is an Operational Group funded by the European Innovation Partnership for Agriculture. As such, it brings together winegrowers from the south-west of France, scientists, advisors and technicians, around a project focused on viticultural soil biological functioning and the design of technical routes more respectful toward soil heritage. To achieve this, the project aims to acquire references on the impact of viticultural practices on soil biology from a dynamic way, and to test a methodology to integrate information provided by the soil bioindicators to manage farming systems. A set of indicators of soil biological quality are evaluated in the project: microorganisms (bacteria and fungi abundance and diversity), fauna (abundance and diversity of nematodes and earthworms), physico-chemical characteristics, soil structure assessment and degradation rate of organic matter. Based on a network of 13 plots that have been subject to an initial diagnosis in 2017, several agronomical practices to restore soil fertility are experimented to redesign the cropping system (for instance plant cover, organic matter inputs, reduction of herbicides, mineral fertilizers). System redesign was made in collaboration by winegrowers and an interdisciplinary group of experts (agronomists, biologists). Several indicators are measured on vine and soil at each vintage to assess vine health and productivity. At the end of the project (2021), a final diagnosis was carried out. Gascogn’Innov allowed to create a regional database on the quality of wine-growing soils, which permitted to evaluate the effect of practices according to soil types. Especially, decreasing the intensity of tillage and increasing the duration and diversity of grass coverage tends to increase the abundance of all the organisms studied. This project confirmed the value of soil biological quality indicators to drive the sustainability of practices, but also highlighted the key-role of expertise, in both agronomy and soil biology, to help winegrowers understand and appropriate their soil quality diagnoses.

Despite their trace concentrations, volatile sulfur compounds (VSCs) are an important category of flavour-active compounds that significantly contribute to desirable or undesirable aromas of many foods and beverages. In wines, VSCs in the form of polyfunctional thiols, notably 3-sulfanylhexan-1-ol (3-SH), 3-sulfanylhexyl acetate (3-SHA), and 4-sulfanyl-4-methyl-pentan-2-one (4-MSP), possess extremely low olfactory thresholds (≈ ng/L) and pleasant “tropical aroma” notes. They have received much attention with respect to their sensory contributions, quantitative occurrences, biogenesis, and thiol management through viticulture and winemaking. However, the fate of these potent volatiles are still not fully understood.

A 3-year study was carried out in order to evaluate the ecophysiology, yield and quality characteristics of Vitis vinifera L. cv. Kékfrankos (syn. Limberger) at Eger-Nagyeged hill (steep slope) and at Eger-Kőlyuktető (flat) vineyard sites located in the Eger wine region, Hungary.

Prematurely aged red wines are marked by intense prune and fig aromatic nuances that dominate the complex bouquet that can be achieved through bottle aging.

All techniques usually used to assay proteins was not reliable in vegetable extract due to interferences with the components included in extracts like polyphenols, tanins, pectines, aromatics compounds. Absorbance at 280nm, Kjeldhal assay, Biuret and Lowry methods, Acid Bicinchonique technique and Bradford assay give the results depending on the composition of extract, on the presence or not of detergent and on the raw material (Marchal, 1995). Another difficulty in these extracts for the quantification of proteins comes from the large amount of water included in vegetable and the low concentration of proteins. Thus in red wines, proteins are usually not taken into account due to their low concentration (typically below 10 mgL-1) and to the presence of anthocyanis and polyphenols.