Considerations about the concept of “terroir”: definition and research direction

This summary follows this made by Hervé Hannin et al. Entitled “French wine sector facing climate change (part. 1) : a national strategy built on a foresight and participatory approach “. The french wine sector has taken a collective approach to the issue of climate change, and has officially submitted its strategy to the minister of agriculture in 2021. This industry policy is the result of multidisciplinary work carried out through the “laccave” project (metaprogramme accaf, inrae) and its prospective study designed to anticipate climate change in the french wine industry (aigrain p. Et al., 2016). French wine professionals decided to structure a strategy to deal with climate change du in particular to the presentation made at the 2016 OIV congress in Brazil.

Grape postharvest dehydration is a widely used technique for the special wines production, where genetic features, ripeness degree and environmental factors strongly influence the metabolic processes [1].

Climate change and harvest date decisions have led to the evolution of must quality over the last decades. Increases in must sugar concentrations are among the most obvious consequences, quantitatively. Saccharomyces cerevisiae is a robust and acid tolerant organism. These properties, its sugar to ethanol conversion rate and ethanol tolerance make it the ideal production organism for wine fermentations. Unfortunately, high sugar concentrations may affect S. cerevisiae and lead to growth inhibition or yeast lysis, and cause sluggish or stuck fermentations. Even sublethal conditions cause a hyperosmotic stress response in S. cerevisiae which leads to increased formation of fermentation by-products, including acetic acid, which may exceed legal limits in some wines.

La maîtrise de la typicité du vin s’élabore au niveau local ou communal d’une exploitation viticole et/ou d’une cave, unité de vinification. La cave coopérative de Saint-Hilaire­-d’Ozilhan (AOC Côtes-du-Rhône), dont le territoire communal s’étend sur une superficie de 1 670 ha, couvre près de 310 ha cultivés en vigne. Elle réalise des vinifications «au terroir», en utilisant des regroupements d’unités de sol en 9 unités de terroir potentiellement viticoles, définies en s’appuyant sur la parenté des substrats. Diverses sélections d’une même unité peuvent aboutir aussi à des vins différents, ce qui suggère une hétérogénéité spatiale de certaines unités définies.

The OIV[i] defines terroir as a concept referring to an area in which collective knowledge of the interactions between the physical and biological environment (soil, topography, climate, landscape characteristics and biodiversity features) and vitivinicultural practices develops, providing distinctive wine characteristics. Those are perceptible in the taste of wine, which drives consumer preference and, therefore, wine’s value in the marketplace. Geographical indications (GI) are recognized regulatory constructs formalizing and protecting the nexus between wine taste and the terroir generating it. Despite considering updates, GIs do not consider the nexus as a dynamic one and do not anticipate change, namely of climate. Being climate a fundamental feature of terroir, it strongly impacts wine characteristics, such as taste. According to IPCC[ii], many widespread, rapid and unprecedented changes of climate occurred, some being irreversible over hundreds to thousands of years. Climatic shifts and atmospheric-driven extreme events have been widely reported worldwide. Recent climatic trends are projected to strengthen in upcoming decades, whereas extremes are expected to increase in frequency and intensity, forcing wines away from GI definitions. Geographical shifts of viticultural suitability are projected, often moving into regions and countries different from current ones. Some authors propose adaptation in viticulture, winemaking and product innovation. We show evidence of climate changing wine characteristics in the Douro valley, home of 270-year-old Port GI. We discuss herein resist or adapt stances for when climate changes the nexus between terroir and wine characteristics. Using the MED-GOLD[iii] dashboard, a tool allowing for easy visual navigation of past and future climates, we demonstrate how policymakers can identify future moments, throughout the 21st century under different emission scenarios, when GI specifications will likely need updates (e.g., boundaries, varieties) to reduce climate-change impacts.