Enhancement of the terroir

Abstract

Le terroir est aujourd’hui le facteur de production et de valorisation le plus importante de la filière du vin. Dans un contexte où le défi commercial se déroule tout azimut, la distinction entre pays producteurs traditionnels et « nouveaux » n’est pas seulement une contre position géographique, culturelle et technique mais aussi, et surtout, juridique. En effet, le système des normes présentes dans le « vieux monde » (droits de plantations, décrets de productions, rendements à l’hectare, etc.) qui peut représenter, à court terme sur le marché global, des contraintes au développement et à l’innovation des produits, doit se transformer en opportunité. Mais les menaces deviennent des opportunités, si l’on travaille, de la vigne au marché, en passant par la communication, plutôt sur les éléments de différence que sur ceux d’affinité. Se donner le but d’être différents avant d’être meilleurs.

L’élément « unique » d’un vin, qui peut mettre en exergue les spécificités d’une région, d’une appellation, d’un lieu-dit, d’un site, d’une parcelle, est le terroir. Et l’outil, qui permet de valoriser un terroir est la connaissance, à la bonne échelle, des éléments structuraux, de fonctionnement et d’interaction qui le caractérisent. Mais font partie aussi du terroir d’autres facteurs d’ordre historique, culturel, social et économique qui se sont développés au cours du siècle et qui se sont mélangés et fondus avec la composante géographique du terroir. On pourrait donc, dans l’optique d’une valorisation à 360° d’un vin et de son alentour, concevoir l’esprit géo humain du terroir. Mais pour concevoir cet esprit, il est nécessaire que les acteurs de la filière vin soient capables de réfléchir, au-delà des vignes et des produits, dans une dimension systémique. Les travaux de zonage, qu’à partir des années 80, ont étudié et caractérisé les aires de production, les appellations d’origine et leurs terroirs, ont fort aidé à mettre en exergue les spécificités, à révéler les potentiels qualitatifs, à donner des explications et à mettre au point des outils de valorisation. Il suffit de reprendre les actes des colloques qui ont précédé celui auquel nous sommes en train de participer ainsi que les actes d’autres colloques concernant les paysage viticoles, d’analyser la démarche de l’UNESCO qui a créé un groupe de réflexion « terroirs et cultures » (au pluriel), pour comprendre l’évolution, la perception et l’importance du lien vin-terroir au cours de trois dernières décennies. La lecture et l’analyse des témoignages exposés dans les colloques cités permettent de mieux comprendre le travail qui a été réalisé, mais surtout le travail qui reste à accomplir pour valoriser les terroirs étudiés à travers les informations et les connaissances disponibles.

Aucun produit issu de la terre et du savoir-faire humain a fait l’objet d’autant d’études scientifiques multidisciplinaires et a stimulé des réflexions littéraires et artistiques comme le vin. Une telle richesse bibliographique représente du matériel qu’il faut analyser, adapter et synthétiser pour la valorisation des terroirs à vin. Les spécialistes de marketing ont toujours simplifié la distinction des producteurs de vins en deux catégories:
– Ceux orientés au produit,
– Ceux orientés au marché.
Dans le premier cas, on travaille pour créer des marchés aux vins existants (traditionnels), tandis que dans le deuxième cas, on vise à produire des vins en fonction des exigences des marchés réels ou potentiels. Selon une optique plus moderne, dynamique et évoluée, il serait bien de s’orienter de plus en plus vers le terroir soit pour réaliser des vins spécifiques, soit pour les valoriser sur des marchés de plus en plus exigeants. Les informations disponibles sur le terroir, son environnement géographique et socio-économique, sont des outils à utiliser afin de cibler la caractérisation et de mettre au point les stratégies et les actions, d’individualiser les éléments de valorisation et de protection du « système terroir » et de stimuler les axes d’innovation dans plusieurs aires d’application. Pour résumer les quelques opportunités de valorisation d’un terroir viticole et des paysages associées, on a proposé une matrice permettant de souligner le fort potentiel disponible. Au cours de l’intervention, on analysera, dans les détails, les croisements les plus importants entre les outils et les aires d’application : par exemple l’emploi des résultats d’un zonage pour caractériser le(s) paysage(s), ou pour mettre au point des stratégies de communication.

DOI:

Publication date: December 22, 2021

Issue: Terroir 2006

Type: Article

Authors

Mario FALCETTI

Secrétaire du groupe d’experts « Zonage vitivinicole » OIV, Paris
Directeur Contadi Castaldi, Franciacorta, Italie
Via Colzano, 32, 25030 Adro, Brescia, Italie

Contact the author

Keywords

terroir, valorisation, marché

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2006

Citation

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