The role of molecular ecophysiology in terroir expression

In this video recording of the IVES science meeting 2025, Jordi Ballester (Centre des sciences du goût et de l’alimentation, CNRS, INRAE, Institut Agro, Université Bourgogne-Franche-Comté, Dijon, France) and María-Pilar Sáenz-Navajas (Instituto de Ciencias de la Vid y el Vino (ICVV) (CSIC-UR-GR), La Rioja, Spain) speak about the concept of natural wine. This presentation is based on an original article accessible for free on OENO One.

Vineyards from mild temperature, high humidity locations receive often treatments with fungicides to prevent damages produced by fungi responsible for mildium, oidium and botrytis infections. In addition, insecticides are also applied to vineyards to fight again pests, which affect directly, or indirectly (as vectors of different diseases), their productivity. A fraction of the above compounds reaches the soil of vineyards, either during application, or when released from the canopy of vines due to rain-wash-off. Thereafter, depending on soil conditions (pH, organic matter) and environmental variables (regimen of rain, slope of vineyards), they might persist in this compartment, be degraded and/or transferred to water masses, modifying the biodiversity of soils and/or affecting the quality of water reservoirs.

From fruit set to ripening, the grape berry mesocarp experiences a wide range of dynamic physical, physiological, and biochemical changes, such as mesocarp cell death (MCD) and hydraulic isolation. The premature occurrence of such events is a characteristic of the Niagara Rosada (NR) variety, utilised as table grapes and winemaking. In our opinion, the onset of ripening would not cause MCD, but a down-regulation of respiratory enzymes during the early loss of cell viability, while maintaining membrane integrity. For this, we investigated three distinct developmental stages (green (E-L33), veraison (E-L35), and ripe (E-L39)) of NR berries by label-free proteomics, enzymatic respiratory activity and outer mesocarp imaging. Cell wall-modifying proteins were found to accumulate differently throughout ripening, while cytoplasmic membranes continue intact.

The tartaric stabilization of wines before bottling to avoid the precipitation of tartaric acid salts is an important and common step during wine production. The presence of precipitated salt crystals in bottle wines is detrimental for their quality and even a legal issue in some countries. Cold stabilization is the most common stabilization treatment. Although it has been shown to be effective, it has some significant disadvantages, mainly regarding losses of color and aromas and its high cost. Therefore, other products and methodologies are being introduced in the wineries for the replacement of this process. Some of these new techniques involve the reduction of the ions causing the insolubilization of tartaric acid while other are based in the formation of protective colloids or the inhibition of the crystallization of salts. In this study, white, rosé and red wines have been treated with carboxymethylcellulose, potassium polyaspartate and an ion exchange resin. The tartaric stability of the wines, together with the oenological, chromatic and sensory characteristics were studied after the wines had been stored during one year in the bottle. The results indicate that the use of carboxymethyl cellulose and potassium polyaspartate maintained the best the sensory and chromatic characteristics and the wine stability of the wines in comparison with an untreated control wine.

The study described the effect of sensory analysis on commercial ‘Sauvignon blanc’ vineyards within the Stellenbosch Wine of Origin District. The sensorial evaluation of the berries was able to give a description of each parcel type and relate it to the cultural practices.