Recent advancements in understanding the terroir effect on aromas in grapes and wines

Tutte le cantine possono aprirsi al pubblico? Evidentemente si, nessuno può impedire ad un produttore di accogliere i turisti.
Tutte le cantine possono far parte delle Strade del vino? No, perché la Strada del vino mette in gioco la reputazione della denominazione di origine alla quale è legata e le possibilità di sviluppo economico di un intero territorio.

The study of the physiological behaviour of the grapevine (cv. Chasselas), and of plant hydraulics in particular, was conducted on various « terroirs » in the Canton of Vaud (Switzerland) between 2001 and 2003 by Agroscope Changins-Wädenswil ACW, in collaboration with the firm I. Letessier (SIGALES) in Grenoble and the Federal Polytechnic School of Lausanne (EPFL). An evaluation of the vine plant hydraulics was made by means of physiological indicators (leaf and stem water potentials, transpiration and leaf stomatal conductance, carbon isotope discrimination and a model of transpirable soil water), in relation to estimations of the soil water reservoir and climatic factors.

Aims: The optimization of nitrogen use efficiency (NUE, i.e. uptake, assimilation and partitioning) is a solution towards the sustainable production of premium wines, while reducing fertilization and environmental impact. The influence of crop load on the accumulation of N compounds in fruits is still poorly understood. The present study assesses the impacts of bunch thinning on NUE and the consequences on the free amino N (FAN) profile in fruits.

In a collective marketing strategy, the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) can be used as a quality indicator. To highlight terroir specificities, it is useful to know how the wines are positioned on the local, national or international market from a sensory point of view. This is especially true for a comparison of varietal wines (e.g. Sauvignon blanc). We focus on the case of two closed Loire Valley PDO (France): Quincy and Reuilly. Three distinct tastings were organized. Firstly, at the local level comparing the 2 PDO (11 and 9 wines, 17 professional assessors); secondly at a regional level adding 3 closed PDO: Menetou-Salon, Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé (3 wines per PDO, 16 assessors) and thirdly at an international level comparing these 5 PDO with Sauvignon Blanc wines coming from South Africa, New Zealand and Chile (1 to 3 wines per PDO, 19 assessors). All the wines were from the 2019 vintage and were considered to have a traditional elaboration process without contact with oak. A sensory descriptive analysis was performed using an aroma wheel allowing to combine a Check-All-That-Apply methodology, often used in sensory benchmarking, with a hierarchical structuration of the attributes. The aim is to facilitate data acquisition in a professional context without common training, to consider the hierarchical relationships among the attributes during the data analysis and to be able to characterize wines with a large range of sensorial variability. We use univariate, multivariate and clustering analyses. Similarities and differences between Quincy and Reuilly PDO wines and other Sauvignon blanc wines were identified. Specific attributes can distinguish the two PDO and different proximities exist with other local PDO, while clear differences were observed compared to international wines. Our study contributes to propose and discuss a method to do a wine sensory benchmarking highlighting sensory specificities linked to origin.

L’appellation d’origine contrôlée repose sur une définition précise de l’aire de production du raisin. Cette délimitation définie par l’Institut National des Appellations d’Origine est proposée par des experts choisis pour leurs compétences dans le domaine de la connaissance de la relation terroir – vins, après avis du syndicat de défense de chaque AOC.