In search of the taste of terroir – a challenge for sensory science

Winemaking is a globally significant industry in the field of food technology (218 mhL of wine estimated for 2024 harvest) [1], which activity produces tons of by-products annually, including pomace (pulp, stems, seeds, skins), lees, organic acids, CO2, and water [2].

Modern grapevine breeding programs have overcome many challenges using genomic selection, which has allowed breeders to make targeted selections at earlier stages in the breeding process. However, the cost of genetic testing may present a burden for some programs, and markers often struggle to accurately predict quantitative traits. Recent advances in high throughput, high-dimensional data have provoked investigation into the use of high-dimensional phenomics as a low-cost addition to the grape breeder’s toolkit that may offer advantages in predicting quantitative traits. High-dimensional secondary trait (HDST) data has been employed in annual crops for prediction of agriculturally important traits such as yield.

Valpolicella is a famous wine producing region in the province of Verona owing its fame above all to the production of two Protected Designation of Origins (PDOs) withered wines: Amarone and Recioto. In recent years, however, the wineries have been interested in the enhancement and qualitative increase of another PDO, Valpolicella Superiore. All the Valpolicella PDOs wines are produced with a unique grape blend, mainly Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and a range of other minor varieties.From 2019 Valpolicella product regulation has changed the grape proportion of the blend allowing new composition parameters of wines. For this reason, studying the volatile chemical profiles to support wine makers in the effort to produce high quality wines represents a field of great interest.

Wine aroma represents one of the most important quality parameter and it is influenced by various factors (viticulture and vinification techniques, climate or storage conditions etc.). Wines produced from conventionally and ecologically grown grapes of same variety have different chemical composition and aroma profile [1]. Aroma profile of wine can be also influenced by additional treatment of wine, such as concentration of wine by reverse osmosis (RO). Reverse osmosis represents a pressure-driven membrane separation technique that separates the initial wine on the retentate or concentrate that is retained on the membrane, and permeate that passes through it [2]. Wine permeate usually containes water, ethanol, acetic acid and several low molecular weight compounds that can pass through the membrane. This property enables the use of reverse osmosis membranes for wine concentration, partial dealcoholization, acetic acid or aroma correction [3,4].

Natural factors of the production (“terroir” and vintage) are known as an important element for identifying wines by their genuine typicité and their authenticity. The program “Terroirs d’Anjou” (1994-1999) aims at bringing the necessary scientific basis for a rational and reasoned exploitation of the terroir.