Terroir 2020 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 International Terroir Conferences 9 Terroir 2020 9 History and innovation of terroir 9 In search of the taste of terroir – a challenge for sensory science

In search of the taste of terroir – a challenge for sensory science

Abstract

The definition of terroir has evolved throughout history, from something clearly negative in the XVIth-XVIIIth century to a complex multi-parametric construct with positive connotations but also with many scientific unknowns. Terroir has always been linked more or less explicitly to the sensory properties of the resulting products.

Wine consumers have little access to objective terroir information and even if they had, it would be very difficult for them to interpret in terms of wine quality. In Europe, the proxy for terroir is the Protected Designations of Origin (PDO) system, which is what consumers have come to know. According to INAO “It is the notion of soil (terroir) that is the basis of the concept of Appellations d’origine” and results in a product with original and typical features.

From a cognitive point of view, terroir-based and other wine sensory categories have been approached from prototype categorization theory, according to which categories are stored in long-term memory as prototypes. The prototype would be abstracted from the instances of the category during previous tastings and shared between experts. The prototype is highly typical of the category and serves as reference to categorize new items. Such categories are based on family resemblance (instances from the same category share more features then instances from different categories) and are organized according to a typicality gradient.

The main sensory methods used to explore the structure of wine sensory categories are typically ratings and sorting tasks combined with descriptive analysis. The sensory studies dealing with PDO-based categories are scarce. Globally, the results suggest that PDO-based categories are quite difficult to distinguish sensorially. A possible explanation is that high within-category variability makes it difficult to pinpoint a prototype and yields quite fuzzy borders.

DOI:

Publication date: March 19, 2021

Issue: Terroir 2020

Type: Video

Authors

Jordi Ballester1,2*

Centre des Sciences du Goût et de l’Alimentation, AgroSup Dijon, CNRS, INRA, Université Bourgogne – Franche-Comté, F-21000 Dijon, France.
IUVV Jules Guyot, Université de Bourgogne, 1 rue Claude Ladrey, 21078 Dijon, France.

Contact the author

Keywords

Terroir, PDO, typicality, expert panel, sensory concept

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2020

Citation

Related articles…

An analysis of wine geographical indications from the perspective of the theory of industrial organizations: what are the trade off?

From Porto and then through Bordeaux, Champagne and Bourgogne, wine geographical indications (gi) were the driving models for this form of protection of distinctive signs for collective use. Many studies present the benefits of recognizing a gi for a given region, the challenges of its implementation, as well as the possibilities of promoting territorial development.

EXPLORING RED WINE TYPICITY OF CORBIÈRES: EVALUATION OF THE DEGREE OF IMPACT OF VINIFICATION PROCESS ON THE CHEMICAL COMPOSITION AND ORGANOLEPTIC PROPERTIES OF WINES FROM DIFFERENT TERROIR

It is important nowadays for wine producers to create a product that is an expression of their terroir, a concept including the interaction between a place (topography, climate, soil), the people (tradition, winemaking and viticultural practices) and the resulting product (grape varieties, wines) [1]. Nonetheless, wine’s typicity linked to those terroirs must be easily recognizable by consumers thanks to distinctive sensory characters and composition [2]. Among the compounds of interest, aromatic compounds and polyphenols play an important role in the quality of red wines, by impacting on the odour, color and astringency. To explore the influence of terroir factors, including climate, soil and human practices, on the chemical and sensory profile of wines, red wines from five terroirs of the Corbières appellation were subjected to a general study approach.

Digitalization and valorization of the genotypic and phenotypic information retained within the FEM grapevine germplasm

The maintenance and valorization of genetic diversity is an undoubtable resource for the viticulture of the future, since the climate crisis is forcing us to think of new, more resilient varieties. For this reason, the grapevine germplasm of the Fondazione Edmund Mach has been continuously expanded in the last decade to a total of 3,120 accessions, whose trueness-to-type has been verified by means of the universal set of nine microsatellites. About two thirds are V. vinifera subsp. vinifera accessions, while the rest consists of naturalized and selected hybrids, V. vinifera subsp. sylvestris, and pure species. The genetic material has also been characterized over three consecutive years for ampelographic, vine development, and biotic stress response traits to be exploited for experimental purposes.

Using GIS to assess the terroir potential of an Oregon viticultural region

Deciding to grow grapes in Oregon is complex issue due to our diverse geography, climate, and relatively short history of grape growing. For any potential grape grower, vineyard site selection is the single most important decision they will face.

CHARACTERIZATION OF THE VOLATILE COMPOUNDS PROFILE OF COMMERCIAL GRAPPAS OBTAINED FROM THE POMACE OF AMARONE WINES

Grappa is a traditional Italian alcoholic beverage, with an alcohol content generally between 40-60% vol., obtained from the distillation of grape pomace used for the production of wine. Grappa are often aged in wooden barrels. There are various types of grappa: young, aromatic, aged, extra-aged depending on whether the distillate comes from aromatic vines or is aged in wooden barrels for shorter or longer periods. There is also flavored grappa if herbs, fruit or roots are added. All this makes it an extremely heterogeneous product both from an organoleptic and compositional point of view.