Denial of the wine-growing landscape

Climate change is causing a gap between the technological and phenolic maturity of grapes, resulting in wines with high alcohol content and low polyphenol concentration. Another phenomenon associated with high temperatures and whose effect is more pronounced if the harvest is delayed is the decrease in the acidity of the grapes, mainly in malic acid, and an increase in pH caused by the accumulation of potassium derived from the increase in temperature. Therefore, climate change and the effects it causes on the vine leads to unbalanced wines, with high alcohol content and lack of color, with green tannins, astringency and excessively low acidity if not corrected.

A seven years survey (2003 to 2009) has been carried out over old traditional vineyards cv. Cencibel in La Mancha region (Spain). Seven plots with more than 35 years old were sampled from veraison to harvest, measuring soluble solids (ºBaumé) and acid concentration (g/l in tartaric acid).

Volatile sulphur compounds are a group of impact odorants with low odour thresholds that can contribute both positively and negatively to wine aroma. The varietal thiols, 3MH and 3MHA, are known to contribute positive tropical aromas to white wines and are most abundant in Sauvignon Blanc wines. The group of compounds contributing negative aromas are known as reductive sulphur compounds (RSCs) as they add a reductive aroma of asparagus, cooked vegetables and rotten egg to wines. All these compounds play a part in and are a result of the sulphur pathway in the yeast cell during fermentation and therefore attempting to increase the concentration of the varietal thiols may directly influence the concentration of the RSCs. The varietal thiols and the low molecular weight RSCs are highly volatile and therefore their sensory perception can change rapidly over time.

Climate change is here. One of the main consequences is an increase in the frequency and severity of abiotic stresses which mostly occur in a combined manner. Grapevine, which grows in a large diversity of pedo-climatic conditions, has presumably evolved different mechanisms to allow this widespread adaptation. Harnessing the genetic diversity in these mechanisms will be central to the future of viticulture in many traditional wine growing areas. The interactions between the scion and the rootstock through grafting add an additional level of diversity and adaptive potential to explore.
At the physiological level, these mechanisms are related to processes such as root system development and functioning (water and nutrient uptake), interactions with the soil microbiome, gas exchange regulation, hydraulic properties along the soil-plant-atmosphere continuum, reserve storage, short and long distance signaling mechanisms and plasticity for some of these traits.

Winemakers are increasingly experimenting with new techniques, such as spontaneous fermentation, prolonged yeast contact, higher pH, minimal sulphur dioxid, filtration and clarification or oxidative ageing. Along with this, the risk of microbial spoilage increases, and so the off-flavour mousiness, long time underestimated, is becoming more frequent. Characteristic of the mousy off-flavour is the delayed perception after swallowing the wine. After a few seconds the flavour appears, reminiscent of a dirty mouse cage. There are three known compounds that cause mousy off-flavor: 2-ethyltetrahydropyridine, 2-acetyltetrahydopyridine, and 2-acetylpyrroline. Yeasts such as Dekkera/Brettanomyces and heterofermentative lactic acid bacteria like Lactobacillus hilgardii can release these compounds.