Vineyard soil mapping to optimise wine quality: from ‘terroir’ characterisation to vineyard management

Smoke taint (ST) is a grape-wine off-flavour that may occur when grapes absorb volatile phenols (VPs) originating from wildfire smoke (1). ST is associated with the negative sensory attributes such as smoky and ashy notes. VPs are glycosylated in the plant and thus present in both free and bound forms (2; 3). Wildfire smoke has resulted in a decline in grape and wine quality and financial losses which has become a prominent issue for the global wine industry.

Vineyards from mild temperature, high humidity locations receive often treatments with fungicides to prevent damages produced by fungi responsible for mildium, oidium and botrytis infections. In addition, insecticides are also applied to vineyards to fight again pests, which affect directly, or indirectly (as vectors of different diseases), their productivity. A fraction of the above compounds reaches the soil of vineyards, either during application, or when released from the canopy of vines due to rain-wash-off. Thereafter, depending on soil conditions (pH, organic matter) and environmental variables (regimen of rain, slope of vineyards), they might persist in this compartment, be degraded and/or transferred to water masses, modifying the biodiversity of soils and/or affecting the quality of water reservoirs.

Les préoccupations actuelles autour des paysages viticoles vont au-delà des clichés promotionnels développés par les stratégies marketing. En effet, les paysages sont aujourd’hui au cœur d’une demande sociale croissante qui se traduit par différentes lois (la loi paysage de 1993, le paysage reconnu comme patrimoine commun de la nation par la loi n°95-101, la création du Conseil national du paysage par arrêté du 8/12/2000).

Young white wines are typically released to the market a few months after harvest, to be consumed within a year, when their fresh fruity aromas are still dominant and appealing to modern consumers. Esters, particularly higher alcohol acetates (HAAs) and ethyl esters of fatty acids (EEFAs), play a central role in the fruity expression of young white wines [1]. However, these esters are known to undergo significant hydrolysis during the first months of aging [1, 2].

The phenolic compounds (cathechins, cynnamic acids, anthocyanidins) in wines made from 6 vine-varieties (Sangiovese, Cabernet S., Nero d’Avola, Foglia Tonda, Pinot N., Mazzese) grown in 4 different pedoclimatic zones of Tuscany (Arezzo, Grosseto, Pisa and Lucca) have been analyzed by HPLC.