Terroir 2004 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Characterization of “territoires” throughout the production of wines obtained with withered grapes: the cases of “Terra della Valpolicella” (Verona) and “Terra della Valle del Piave” (Treviso) in Northern Italy

Characterization of “territoires” throughout the production of wines obtained with withered grapes: the cases of “Terra della Valpolicella” (Verona) and “Terra della Valle del Piave” (Treviso) in Northern Italy

Abstract

[English version below]

Dans la définition et la description d’un “territoire” (“terra” en italien), avec les facteurs du milieu et génétiques, un rôle important est joué par ceux agronomiques, techniques et de culture qui contribuent à caractériser le produit d’une zone spécifique. La production des vins obtenus à la suite d’une déshydratation partielle des raisins peut être considérée un intéressant exemple de caractérisation d’un «territoire». La Valpolicella, une région collinaire au nord-ouest de Vérone (Italie) est célèbre non seulement pour le vin qui porte le même nom, mais aussi pour le Recioto et l’Amarone qui sont obtenus à la suite d’une déshydratation des raisins en post-récolte. Le procédé de la déshydratation est obtenu avec des méthodes traditionnelles ou, plus récemment, avec de nouveaux systèmes de perte d’eau (intensité et vitesse) avec des conséquences sur la physiologie de la baie et les aspects qualitatifs du vin. Une comparaison entre une déshydratation rapide et une lente a été effectuée sur la variété Corvina et on reporte des données biochimiques et moléculaires liées à des paramètres qualitatifs (anthocyanine, resvératrol). Un deuxième exemple est représenté par la «Terra della Valle del Piave» et son vin Raboso Piave, souvent caractérisé par un goût assez désagréable dû aux polyphénols qui ne sont pas équilibrés et mûrs. L’application de la technique DMR (Doppia Maturazione Ragionata -Double Maturation Raisonnée) permet de résoudre ce problème: on reporte les données concernant l’effet de l’application de cette technique sur les propriétés organoleptiques du vin.

In the definition and description of a “territoire” (“terra”, in Italian), together with environmental and genetic factors, an important role is also played by agronomic, technical, and cultural aspects that contribute to characterize the produce of the specific area. The production of wines obtained following partial dehydration of harvested grapes may be considered as an interesting example of “territoire” characterization. Valpolicella, a hilly area North-West of Verona (Italy), is famous not only for its homonymous wine but also for the Recioto and Amarone that are obtained following dehydration of harvested grapes. The withering process is accomplished with traditional methods, or, in recent years, with new drying systems differently affecting the loss of water process (rate, intensity) with consequences on berry physiology and wine quality traits. Slow and rapid dehydration rates have been compared and some biochemical and molecular parameters linked to quality aspects (anthocyanins, resveratrol) have been monitored in the cv Corvina. A second example is represented by “Terra della Valle del Piave” and its Raboso wine, characterized by a strong and sometimes unpleasant taste, due to unbalanced polyphenol content. The application of the DMR technique (cluster bearing canes detached and berries allowed to over-ripen in the field) solves this problem: results concerning organoleptic evaluations of grapes and wines obtained using this technique are reported.

DOI:

Publication date: January 12, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2004

Type: Article

Authors

P. Tonutti (1), G. B. Tornielli (2), G. Cargnello (3)

(1) Department of Environmental Agronomy and Crop Science – University of Padova – Sede di Conegliano Viale XXVIII Aprile, 14, 31015 Conegliano – Treviso (Italy)
(2) CIVE – University of Verona Via della Pieve 64, 37029 San Floriano-Verona (Italy)
(3) SOC Tecniche Colturali – Istituto Sperimentale per la Viticoltura Viale XXVIII Aprile, 26 31015 Conegliano – Treviso (Italy)

Contact the author

Keywords

Over-ripening, dehydration techniques, post-harvest, organoleptic quality, sensory evaluation

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2004

Citation

Related articles…

Modeling island and coastal vineyards potential in the context of climate change

Climate change impacts regional and local climates, which in turn affects the world’s wine regions. In the short term, these modifications rises issues about maintaining quality and style of wine, and in a longer term about the suitability of grape varieties and the sustainability of traditional wine regions. Thus, adaptation to climate change represents a major challenge for viticulture. In this context, island and coastal vineyards could become coveted areas due to their specific climatic conditions. In regions subject to warming, the proximity of the sea can moderate extremes temperatures, which could be an advantage for wine. However, coastal and island areas are particular prized spaces and subject to multiple pressures that make the establishment or extension of viticulture complex.
In this perspective, it seems relevant to assess the potentialities of coastal and island areas for viticulture. This contribution will present a spatial optimization model that tends to characterize most suitable agroclimatic patterns in historical or emerging vineyards according to different scenarios. Thanks to an in-depth bibliography a global inventory of coastal and insular vineyards on a worldwide scale has been realized. Relevant criteria have been identified to describe the specificities of these vineyards. They are used as input data in the optimization process, which will optimize some objectives and spatial aspects. According to a predefined scenario, the objectives are set in three main categories associated with climatic characteristics, vineyards characteristics and management strategies. At the end of this optimization process, a series of maps presents the different spatial configurations that maximize the scenario objectives.

How distinctive are single vineyard Gewürztraminer musts and wines from Alto Adige (Italy) based on untargeted analysis, sensory profiling, and chemometric elaboration?

Vitis vinifera L. ‘Gewürztraminer’ is a historical grape variety of Alto Adige (Südtirol), Italy, which is widely grown in the area of Tramin an der Weinstraße, but is also grown globally. It produces highly aromatic wines that are strongly influenced by the terroir of the vineyard sites where they are grown. This study looked at musts and young wines from ‘Gewürztraminer’ grapes harvested in seven distinct vineyards near Tramin and then processed at Cantina di Termeno, minimizing winemaking protocol variability. Samples were profiled using bidimensional gas chromatography–time-of-flight mass spectrometry, liquid chromatography coupled to electrochemical detection, and near-IR spectrometry. The data were subjected to Principle Component Analysis and Hierarchical Clustering Analysis. Sensory discriminant testing was undertaken using the sorting method with a semi-trained panel, and the data were processed using Multidimensional Scaling. Seven must/wine pairs could be distinguished based on their untargeted volatilome profiles and on sensory evaluation. As expected, there were greater differences in the volatile compounds between the wines than between the musts. The wines from vineyards 4 and 5 were nonetheless quite homogenous in terms of chemical and sensory analyses, as were the wines from vineyards 1 and 3. For the phenolic profile, differences were noted between the musts and wines of vineyards 2, 3, and 4, but the musts from vineyards 5 and 7 were similar. Sensory analysis showed the wines from vineyards 6 and 7 to be distinct from the rest. These results reinforce that the composition of ‘Gewürztraminer’ musts and wines is strongly determined by vineyard site, even in a small geographic area with high variability of the terroir (soil and microclimate), and that these differences are apparent in the flavours and aromas of the finished wines. Further confirmation would require a larger sample of wines, preferably from several vintages.

Updating the Winkler index: An analysis of Cabernet sauvignon in Napa Valley’s varied and changing climate

This study aims to create an updated, agile viticultural climate index (similar to the Winkler Index) by performing in-depth analyses of current and historical data from industry partners in several major winegrowing regions. The Winkler Index was developed in the early twentieth century based on analysis of various grape-growing regions in California. The index uses heat accumulation (i.e. Growing Degree Days) throughout the growing season to determine which grape varieties are best suited to each region. As viticultural regions are increasingly subject to the complexity and uncertainty of a changing climate, a more rigorous, agile model is needed to aid grape growers in determining which cultivars to plant where. For the first phase of this study, 21 industry partners throughout Napa Valley shared historical phenology, harvest, viticultural practice, and weather data related to their Cabernet sauvignon vineyard blocks. To complement this data, berry samples were collected throughout the 2021 growing season from 50 vineyard blocks located throughout 16 American Viticultural Areas that were then analyzed for basic berry chemistry and phenolics. These blocks have been mapped using a Geographic Information System (GIS), enabling analysis of altitude, vineyard row orientation, slope, and remotely sensed climate data. Sampling sites were also chosen based on their proximity to a weather station. By analyzing historical data from industry partners and data specifically collected for this study, it is possible to identify key parameters for further analysis. Initial results indicate extreme variability at a high spatial resolution not currently accounted for in modern viticultural climate indices and suggest that viticultural practices play a major role. Using the structure of data collection and analyses developed for the first phase, this project will soon be expanded to other wine regions globally, while continuing data collection in Napa Valley.

Grapevine yield estimation in a context of climate change: the GraY model

Grapevine yield is a key indicator to assess the impacts of climate change and the relevance of adaptation strategies in a vineyard landscape. At this scale, a yield model should use a number of parameters and input data in relation to the information available and be able to reproduce vineyard management decisions (e.g. soil and canopy management, irrigation). In this study, we used data from six experimental sites in Southern France (cv. Syrah) to calibrate a model of grapevine yield limited by water constraint (GraY). Each yield component (bud fertility, number of berries per bunch, berry weight) was calculated as a function of the soil water availability simulated by the WaLIS water balance model at critical phenological phases. The model was then evaluated in 10 grapegrowers’ plots, covering a diversity of biophysical and technical contexts (soil type, canopy size, irrigation, cover crop). We identified three critical periods for yield formation: after flowering on the previous year for the number of bunches and berries, around pre-veraison and post-veraison of the same year for mean berry weight. Yields were simulated with a model efficiency (EF) of 0.62 (NRMSE = 0.28). Bud fertility and number of berries per bunch were more accurately simulated (EF = 0.90 and 0.77, NRMSE = 0.06 and 0.10, respectively) than berry weight (EF = -0.31, NRMSE = 0.17). Model efficiency on the on-farm plots reached 0.71 (NRMSE = 0.37) simulating yields from 1 to 8 kg/plant. The GraY model is an original model estimating grapevine yield evolution on the basis of water availability under future climatic conditions.  It allows to evaluate the effects of various adaptation levers such as planting density, cover crop management, fruit/leaf ratio, shading and irrigation, in various production contexts.

Grape berry size is a key factor in determining New Zealand Pinot noir wine composition

Making high quality but affordable Pinot noir (PN) wine is challenging in most terroirs and New Zealand’s (NZ) situation is no exception. To increase the probability of making highly typical PN wines producers choose to grow grapes in cool climates on lower fertility soils while adopting labour intensive practices. Stringent yield targets and higher input costs necessarily mean that PN wine cost is high, and profitability lower, in line-priced varietal wine ranges. To understand the reasons why higher yielding vines are perceived to produce wines of lower quality we have undertaken an extensive study of PN in NZ. Since 2018, we established a network of twelve trial sites in three NZ regions to find individual vines that produced acceptable commercial yields (above 2.5kg per vine) and wines of composition comparable to “Icon” labels. Approximately 20% of 660 grape lots (N = 135) were selected from within a narrow juice Total Soluble Solids (TSS) range and made into single vine wines under controlled conditions. Principal Component Analysis of the vine, berry, juice and wine parameters from three vintages found grape berry mass to be most effective clustering variable. As berry mass category decreased there was a systematic increase in the probability of higher berry red colour and total phenolics with a parallel increase in wine phenolics, changed aroma fraction and decreased juice amino acids. The influence of berry size on wine composition would appear stronger than the individual effects of vintage, region, vineyard or vine yield. Our observations support the hypothesis that it is possible to produce PN wines that fall within an “Icon” benchmark composition range at yields above 2.5kg per vine provided that the Leaf Area:Fruit Weight ratio is above 12cm2 per g, mean berry mass is below 1.2g and juice TSS is above 22°Brix.