Terroir 2004 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Characterization of “territoires” throughout the production of wines obtained with withered grapes: the cases of “Terra della Valpolicella” (Verona) and “Terra della Valle del Piave” (Treviso) in Northern Italy

Characterization of “territoires” throughout the production of wines obtained with withered grapes: the cases of “Terra della Valpolicella” (Verona) and “Terra della Valle del Piave” (Treviso) in Northern Italy

Abstract

[English version below]

Dans la définition et la description d’un “territoire” (“terra” en italien), avec les facteurs du milieu et génétiques, un rôle important est joué par ceux agronomiques, techniques et de culture qui contribuent à caractériser le produit d’une zone spécifique. La production des vins obtenus à la suite d’une déshydratation partielle des raisins peut être considérée un intéressant exemple de caractérisation d’un «territoire». La Valpolicella, une région collinaire au nord-ouest de Vérone (Italie) est célèbre non seulement pour le vin qui porte le même nom, mais aussi pour le Recioto et l’Amarone qui sont obtenus à la suite d’une déshydratation des raisins en post-récolte. Le procédé de la déshydratation est obtenu avec des méthodes traditionnelles ou, plus récemment, avec de nouveaux systèmes de perte d’eau (intensité et vitesse) avec des conséquences sur la physiologie de la baie et les aspects qualitatifs du vin. Une comparaison entre une déshydratation rapide et une lente a été effectuée sur la variété Corvina et on reporte des données biochimiques et moléculaires liées à des paramètres qualitatifs (anthocyanine, resvératrol). Un deuxième exemple est représenté par la «Terra della Valle del Piave» et son vin Raboso Piave, souvent caractérisé par un goût assez désagréable dû aux polyphénols qui ne sont pas équilibrés et mûrs. L’application de la technique DMR (Doppia Maturazione Ragionata -Double Maturation Raisonnée) permet de résoudre ce problème: on reporte les données concernant l’effet de l’application de cette technique sur les propriétés organoleptiques du vin.

In the definition and description of a “territoire” (“terra”, in Italian), together with environmental and genetic factors, an important role is also played by agronomic, technical, and cultural aspects that contribute to characterize the produce of the specific area. The production of wines obtained following partial dehydration of harvested grapes may be considered as an interesting example of “territoire” characterization. Valpolicella, a hilly area North-West of Verona (Italy), is famous not only for its homonymous wine but also for the Recioto and Amarone that are obtained following dehydration of harvested grapes. The withering process is accomplished with traditional methods, or, in recent years, with new drying systems differently affecting the loss of water process (rate, intensity) with consequences on berry physiology and wine quality traits. Slow and rapid dehydration rates have been compared and some biochemical and molecular parameters linked to quality aspects (anthocyanins, resveratrol) have been monitored in the cv Corvina. A second example is represented by “Terra della Valle del Piave” and its Raboso wine, characterized by a strong and sometimes unpleasant taste, due to unbalanced polyphenol content. The application of the DMR technique (cluster bearing canes detached and berries allowed to over-ripen in the field) solves this problem: results concerning organoleptic evaluations of grapes and wines obtained using this technique are reported.

DOI:

Publication date: January 12, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2004

Type: Article

Authors

P. Tonutti (1), G. B. Tornielli (2), G. Cargnello (3)

(1) Department of Environmental Agronomy and Crop Science – University of Padova – Sede di Conegliano Viale XXVIII Aprile, 14, 31015 Conegliano – Treviso (Italy)
(2) CIVE – University of Verona Via della Pieve 64, 37029 San Floriano-Verona (Italy)
(3) SOC Tecniche Colturali – Istituto Sperimentale per la Viticoltura Viale XXVIII Aprile, 26 31015 Conegliano – Treviso (Italy)

Contact the author

Keywords

Over-ripening, dehydration techniques, post-harvest, organoleptic quality, sensory evaluation

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2004

Citation

Related articles…

The rootstock, the neglected player in the scion transpiration even during the night

Water is the main limiting factor for yield in viticulture. Improving drought adaptation in viticulture will be an increasingly important issue under climate change. Genetic variability of water deficit responses in grapevine partly results from the rootstocks, making them an attractive and relevant mean to achieve adaptation without changing the scion genotype. The objective of this work was to characterize the rootstock effect on the diurnal regulation of scion transpiration. A large panel of 55 commercial genotypes were grafted onto Cabernet Sauvignon. Three biological repetitions per genotype were analyzed. Potted plants were phenotyped on a greenhouse balance platform capable of assessing real-time water use and maintaining a targeted water deficit intensity. After a 10 days well-watered baseline period, an increasing water deficit was applied for 10 days, followed by a stable water deficit stress for 7 days. Pruning weight, root and aerial dry weight and transpiration were recorded and the experiment was repeated during two years. Transpiration efficiency (ratio between aerial biomass and transpiration) was calculated and δ13C was measured in leaves for the baseline and stable water deficit periods. A large genetic variability was observed within the panel. The rootstock had a significant impact on nocturnal transpiration which was also strongly and positively correlated with maximum daytime transpiration. The correlations with growth and water use efficiency related traits will be discussed. Transpiration data were also related with VPD and soil water content demonstrating the influence of environmental conditions on transpiration. These results highlighted the role of the rootstock in modulating water deficit responses and give insights for rootstock breeding programs aimed at identifying drought tolerant rootstocks. It was also helpful to better define the mechanisms on which the drought tolerance in grapevine rootstocks is based on.

The impact of leaf canopy management on eco-physiology, wood chemical properties and microbial communities in root, trunk and cordon of Riesling grapevines (Vitis vinifera L.)

In the last decades, climate change required already adaptation of vineyard management. Increase in temperature and unexpected weather events cause changes in all phenological stages requiring new management tools. For example, defoliation can be a useful tool to reduce the sugar content in the berries creating differences in the wine profiles. In a ten-year field experiment using Riesling (Vitis vinifera L, planted 1986, Geisenheim, Germany), various mechanical defoliation strategies and different intensities were trialed until 2016 before the vineyard was uprooted. Wood was sampled from the plant compartments root, trunk, cordon and shoot for analyses of physicochemical properties (e.g. lignin and element content, pH, diameter), nonstructural carbohydrates and the microbial communities. The aim of the study was to investigate the influence of reduced canopy leaf area on the sink-source allocation into different compartments and potential changes of the fungal and prokaryotic wood-inhabiting community using a metabarcoding approach. Severe summer pruning (SSP) of the canopy and mechanical defoliation (MDC) above the bunch zone decreased the leaf area by 50% compared to control (C). SSP reduced the photosynthetic capacity, which resulted in an altered source-sink allocation and carbohydrate storage. With lower leaf area, less carbohydrates are allocated. This for example resulted in a decreased trunk diameter. Further, it affected the composition of the grapevine wood microbiota. SSP and MDC management changed significantly the prokaryotic community composition in wood of the root samples, but had no effect in other compartments. In general, this study found strong compartment and less management effects of the microbial community composition and associated physicochemical properties. The highest microbial diversities were identified in the wood of the trunk, and several species were recorded the first time in grapevine.

Grapevine yield estimation in a context of climate change: the GraY model

Grapevine yield is a key indicator to assess the impacts of climate change and the relevance of adaptation strategies in a vineyard landscape. At this scale, a yield model should use a number of parameters and input data in relation to the information available and be able to reproduce vineyard management decisions (e.g. soil and canopy management, irrigation). In this study, we used data from six experimental sites in Southern France (cv. Syrah) to calibrate a model of grapevine yield limited by water constraint (GraY). Each yield component (bud fertility, number of berries per bunch, berry weight) was calculated as a function of the soil water availability simulated by the WaLIS water balance model at critical phenological phases. The model was then evaluated in 10 grapegrowers’ plots, covering a diversity of biophysical and technical contexts (soil type, canopy size, irrigation, cover crop). We identified three critical periods for yield formation: after flowering on the previous year for the number of bunches and berries, around pre-veraison and post-veraison of the same year for mean berry weight. Yields were simulated with a model efficiency (EF) of 0.62 (NRMSE = 0.28). Bud fertility and number of berries per bunch were more accurately simulated (EF = 0.90 and 0.77, NRMSE = 0.06 and 0.10, respectively) than berry weight (EF = -0.31, NRMSE = 0.17). Model efficiency on the on-farm plots reached 0.71 (NRMSE = 0.37) simulating yields from 1 to 8 kg/plant. The GraY model is an original model estimating grapevine yield evolution on the basis of water availability under future climatic conditions.  It allows to evaluate the effects of various adaptation levers such as planting density, cover crop management, fruit/leaf ratio, shading and irrigation, in various production contexts.

Metabolomic discrimination of grapevine water status for Chardonnay and Pinot noir

Water status impact in viticulture has been widely explored, as it strongly affects grapevine physiology and grape chemical composition. It is considered as a key component of vitivinicultural terroir. Most of the studies concerning grapevine water status have focused on either physiological traits, or berry compounds, or traits involved in wine quality. Here, the response of grapevine to water availability during the ripening period is assessed through non-targeted metabolomics analysis of grape berries by ultra-high resolution mass spectrometry. The grapevine water status has been assessed during 2 consecutive years (2019 & 2020), through carbon isotope discrimination on juices from berries collected at maturity (21.5 brix approx.) for 2 Vitis vinifera cv. Pinot noir (PN) and Chardonnay (CH). A total of 220 grape juices were collected from 5 countries worldwide (Italy; Argentina; France; Germany; Portugal). Measured δ13C (‰) varied from -28.73 to -22.6 for PN, and from -28.79 to -21.67 for CH. These results also clearly revealed higher water stress for the 2020 vintage. The same grape juices have been analysed by Fourier Transform Ion Cyclotron Resonance Mass Spectrometry (FT-ICR-MS) and Liquid Chromatography coupled to Mass Spectrometry (LC-qTOF-MS), leading to the detection of up to 4500 CHONS containing elemental compositions, and thus likely tens of thousands of individual compounds, which include fatty acids, organic acids, peptides, phenolics, also with high levels of glycosylation. Multivariate statistical analysis revealed that up to 160 elemental compositions, covering the whole range of detected masses (100 –1000 m/z), were significantly correlated to the observed gradients of water status. Examples of chemical markers, which are representative of these complex fingerprints, include various derivatives of the known abscisic acid (ABA), such as phaesic acid or abscisic acid glucose ester, which are significantly correlated with higher water stress, regardless of the variety. Cultivar-specific behaviours could also be identified from these fingerprints. Our results provide an unprecedented representation of the metabolic diversity, which is involved in the water status regulation at the grape level, and which could contribute to a better knowledge of the grapevine mitigation strategy in a climate change context.

Effect of the commercial inoculum of arbuscular mycorrhiza in the establishment of a commercial vineyard of the cultivar “Manto negro

The favorable effect of symbiosis with arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi (AMF) has been known and studied since the 60s. Nowadays, many companies took the chance to start promoting and selling commercial inoculants of AMF, in order to be used as biofertilizers and encourage sustainable biological agriculture. However, the positive effect of these commercial biofertilizers on plant growth is not always demonstrated, especially under field conditions. In this study, we used a commercial inoculum on newly planted grapevines of a local cultivar grafted on a common rootstock R110. We followed the physiological status of vines, growth and productivity and functional biodiversity of soil bacteria during the first and second years of 20 inoculated with commercial inoculum bases on Rhizophagus irregularis and Funeliformis mosseaeAMF at field planting time and 20 non-inoculated control plants. All the parameters measured showed a neutral to negative effect on plant growth and production. The inoculated plants always presented lower values of photosynthesis, growth and grape production, although in some cases the differences did not reach statistical significance. On the contrary, the inoculation supposed an increase of the bacterial functional diversity, although the differences were not statistically significant either. Several studies show that the effect of inoculation with AMF is context-dependent. The non-favorable effects are probably due to inoculation ineffectiveness under complex field conditions and/or that, under certain conditions, AMF presence may be a parasitic association. This puts into question the effectiveness of its application in the field. Therefore, it is recommended to only resort to this type of biofertilizer when the cultivation conditions require it (e.g., very low previous microbial diversity, foreseeable stress due to drought, salinity, or lack of nutrients) and not as a general fertilization practice.