Terroir 2004 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Characterization of “territoires” throughout the production of wines obtained with withered grapes: the cases of “Terra della Valpolicella” (Verona) and “Terra della Valle del Piave” (Treviso) in Northern Italy

Characterization of “territoires” throughout the production of wines obtained with withered grapes: the cases of “Terra della Valpolicella” (Verona) and “Terra della Valle del Piave” (Treviso) in Northern Italy

Abstract

[English version below]

Dans la définition et la description d’un “territoire” (“terra” en italien), avec les facteurs du milieu et génétiques, un rôle important est joué par ceux agronomiques, techniques et de culture qui contribuent à caractériser le produit d’une zone spécifique. La production des vins obtenus à la suite d’une déshydratation partielle des raisins peut être considérée un intéressant exemple de caractérisation d’un «territoire». La Valpolicella, une région collinaire au nord-ouest de Vérone (Italie) est célèbre non seulement pour le vin qui porte le même nom, mais aussi pour le Recioto et l’Amarone qui sont obtenus à la suite d’une déshydratation des raisins en post-récolte. Le procédé de la déshydratation est obtenu avec des méthodes traditionnelles ou, plus récemment, avec de nouveaux systèmes de perte d’eau (intensité et vitesse) avec des conséquences sur la physiologie de la baie et les aspects qualitatifs du vin. Une comparaison entre une déshydratation rapide et une lente a été effectuée sur la variété Corvina et on reporte des données biochimiques et moléculaires liées à des paramètres qualitatifs (anthocyanine, resvératrol). Un deuxième exemple est représenté par la «Terra della Valle del Piave» et son vin Raboso Piave, souvent caractérisé par un goût assez désagréable dû aux polyphénols qui ne sont pas équilibrés et mûrs. L’application de la technique DMR (Doppia Maturazione Ragionata -Double Maturation Raisonnée) permet de résoudre ce problème: on reporte les données concernant l’effet de l’application de cette technique sur les propriétés organoleptiques du vin.

In the definition and description of a “territoire” (“terra”, in Italian), together with environmental and genetic factors, an important role is also played by agronomic, technical, and cultural aspects that contribute to characterize the produce of the specific area. The production of wines obtained following partial dehydration of harvested grapes may be considered as an interesting example of “territoire” characterization. Valpolicella, a hilly area North-West of Verona (Italy), is famous not only for its homonymous wine but also for the Recioto and Amarone that are obtained following dehydration of harvested grapes. The withering process is accomplished with traditional methods, or, in recent years, with new drying systems differently affecting the loss of water process (rate, intensity) with consequences on berry physiology and wine quality traits. Slow and rapid dehydration rates have been compared and some biochemical and molecular parameters linked to quality aspects (anthocyanins, resveratrol) have been monitored in the cv Corvina. A second example is represented by “Terra della Valle del Piave” and its Raboso wine, characterized by a strong and sometimes unpleasant taste, due to unbalanced polyphenol content. The application of the DMR technique (cluster bearing canes detached and berries allowed to over-ripen in the field) solves this problem: results concerning organoleptic evaluations of grapes and wines obtained using this technique are reported.

DOI:

Publication date: January 12, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2004

Type: Article

Authors

P. Tonutti (1), G. B. Tornielli (2), G. Cargnello (3)

(1) Department of Environmental Agronomy and Crop Science – University of Padova – Sede di Conegliano Viale XXVIII Aprile, 14, 31015 Conegliano – Treviso (Italy)
(2) CIVE – University of Verona Via della Pieve 64, 37029 San Floriano-Verona (Italy)
(3) SOC Tecniche Colturali – Istituto Sperimentale per la Viticoltura Viale XXVIII Aprile, 26 31015 Conegliano – Treviso (Italy)

Contact the author

Keywords

Over-ripening, dehydration techniques, post-harvest, organoleptic quality, sensory evaluation

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2004

Citation

Related articles…

Influence of weather and climatic conditions on the viticultural production in Croatia

The research includes an analysis of the impact of weather conditions on phenological development of the vine and grape quality, through monitoring of four experimental cultivars (Chardonnay, Graševina, Merlot and Plavac mali) over two production years. In each experimental vineyard, which were evenly distributed throughout the regions of Slavonia and The Croatian Danube, Croatian Uplands,

Sustaining wine identity through intra-varietal diversification

With contemporary climate change, cultivated Vitis vinifera L. is at risk as climate is a critical component in defining ecologically fitted plant materiel. While winegrowers can draw on the rich diversity among grapevine varieties to limit expected impacts (Morales-Castilla et al., 2020), replacing a signature variety that has created a sense of local distinctiveness may lead to several challenges. In order to sustain wine identity in uncertain climate outcomes, the study of intra-varietal diversity is important to reflect the adaptive and evolutionary potential of current cultivated varieties. The aim of this ongoing study is to understand to what extent can intra-varietal diversity be a climate change adaptation solution. With a focus on early (Sauvignon blanc, Riesling, Grolleau, Pinot noir) to moderate late (Chenin, Petit Verdot, Cabernet franc) ripening varieties, data was collected for flowering and veraison for the various studied accessions (from conservatory plots) and clones. For these phenological growing stages, heat requirements were established using nearby weather stations (adapted from the GFV model, Parker et al., 2013) and model performances were verified. Climate change projections were then integrated to predict the future behaviour of the intra-varietal diversity. Study findings highlight the strong phenotypic diversity of studied varieties and the importance of diversification to enhance climate change resilience. While model performances may require improvements, this study is the first step towards quantifying heat requirements of different clones and how they can provide adaptation solutions for winegrowers to sustain local wine identity in a global changing climate. As genetic diversity is an ongoing process through point mutations and epigenetic adaptations, perspective work is to explore clonal data from a wide variety of geographic locations.

VineyardFACE: Investigation of a moderate (+20%) increase of ambient CO2 level on berry ripening dynamics and fruit composition

Climate change and rising atmospheric carbon dioxide concentration is a concern for agriculture, including viticulture. Studies on elevated carbon dioxide have already been on grapevines, mainly taking place in greenhouses using potted plants or using field grown vines under higher CO2 enrichment, i.e. >650 ppm. The VineyardFACE, located at Hochschule Geisenheim University, is an open field Free Air CO2 Enrichment (FACE) experimental set-up designed to study the effects of elevated carbon dioxide using field grown vines (Vitis vinifera L. cvs. Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon). As the carbon dioxide fumigation started in 2014, the long term effects of elevated carbon dioxide treatment can be investigated on berry ripening parameters and fruit metabolic composition.
The present study aims to investigate the effect on fruit composition under a moderate increase (+20%; eCO2) of carbon dioxide concentration, as predicted for 2050 on both Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon. Berry composition was determined for primary (sugars, organic acids, amino acids) and secondary metabolites (anthocyanins). Special focus was given on monitoring of berry diameter and ripening rates throughout three growing seasons. Compared to previous results of the early adaptative phase of the vines [1], our results show little effect of eCO2 treatment on primary metabolites composition in berries. However, total anthocyanins concentration in berry skin was lower for eCO2 treatment in 2020, although the ratio between anthocyanins derivatives did not differ.
[1] Wohlfahrt Y., Tittmann S., Schmidt D., Rauhut D., Honermeier B., Stoll M. (2020) The effect of elevated CO2 on berry development and bunch structure of Vitis vinifera L. cvs. Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon. Applied Science Basel 10: 2486

Towards a regional mapping of vine water status based on crowdsourcing observations

Monitoring vine water status is a major challenge for vineyard management because it influences both yield and harvest quality. It is also a challenge at the territorial scale for identifying periods of high water restriction or zones regularly impacted by water stress. This information is of major importance for defining collective strategies, anticipating harvest logistic or applying for irrigation authorisation. At this spatial scale, existing tools and methods for monitoring vine water status are few and often require strong assumptions (e.g. water balance model). This paper proposes to consider a collaborative collection of observations by winegrowers and wine industry stakeholders (crowdsourcing) as an interesting alternative. Indeed, it allows the collection of a large number of field observations while pooling the collection effort. However, the feasibility of such a project and its interest in monitoring vine water status at regional scale has never been tested.

The objective of this article is to explore the possibility of making a regional map of vine water status based on crowdsourcing observations. It is based on the study of the free mobile application ApeX-Vigne, which allows the collection of observations about vine shoot growth. This information is easy to collect and can be considered, under certain conditions, as a proxy for vine water status. This article presents the first results obtained from the nearly 18,000 observations collected by winegrowers and wine industry stakeholders during 2019, 2020 and 2021 seasons. It presents the vine shoot growth maps obtained at regional scale and their evolution over the three vintages studied. It also proposes an analysis of the factors that favoured the number of observations collected and those that favoured their quality. These results open up new perspectives for monitoring vine water status at a regional scale but above they provide references for other crowdsourcing projects in viticulture.

Grapevine xylem embolism resistance spectrum reveals which varieties have a lower mortality risk in a future dry climate

Wine growing regions have recently faced intense and frequent droughts that have led to substantial economical losses, and the maintenance of grapevine productivity under warmer and drier climate will rely notably on planting drought-resistant cultivars. Given that plant growth and yield depend on water transport efficiency and maintenance of photosynthesis, thus on the preservation of the vascular system integrity during drought, a better understanding of drought-related hydraulic traits that have a significant impact on physiological processes is urgently needed. We have worked towards this end by assessing vulnerability to xylem embolism in 30 grapevine commercial varieties encompassing red and white Vitis vinifera varieties, hybrid varieties characterized by a polygenic resistance for powdery and downy mildew, and commonly used rootstocks. These analyses further allowed a global assessment of wine regions with respect to their varietal diversity and resulting vulnerability to stem embolism. Hybrid cultivars displayed the highest vulnerability to embolism, while rootstocks showed the greatest resistance. Significant variability also arose among Vitis vinifera varieties, with Ψ12 and Ψ50 values ranging from -0.4 to -2.7 MPa and from -1.8 to -3.4 MPa, respectively. Cabernet franc, Chardonnay and Ugni blanc featured among the most vulnerable varieties while Pinot noir, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon ranked among the most resistant. In consequence, wine regions bearing a significant proportion of vulnerable varieties, such as Poitou-Charentes, France and Marlborough, New Zealand, turned out to be at greater risk under drought. These results highlight that grapevine varieties may not respond equally to warmer and drier conditions, outlining the importance to consider hydraulic traits associated with plant drought tolerance into breeding programmes and modeling simulations of grapevine yield maintenance under severe drought. They finally represent a step forward to advise the wine industry about which varieties and regions would have the lowest risk of drought-induced mortality under climate change.