Terroir 2004 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Characterization of “territoires” throughout the production of wines obtained with withered grapes: the cases of “Terra della Valpolicella” (Verona) and “Terra della Valle del Piave” (Treviso) in Northern Italy

Characterization of “territoires” throughout the production of wines obtained with withered grapes: the cases of “Terra della Valpolicella” (Verona) and “Terra della Valle del Piave” (Treviso) in Northern Italy

Abstract

[English version below]

Dans la définition et la description d’un “territoire” (“terra” en italien), avec les facteurs du milieu et génétiques, un rôle important est joué par ceux agronomiques, techniques et de culture qui contribuent à caractériser le produit d’une zone spécifique. La production des vins obtenus à la suite d’une déshydratation partielle des raisins peut être considérée un intéressant exemple de caractérisation d’un «territoire». La Valpolicella, une région collinaire au nord-ouest de Vérone (Italie) est célèbre non seulement pour le vin qui porte le même nom, mais aussi pour le Recioto et l’Amarone qui sont obtenus à la suite d’une déshydratation des raisins en post-récolte. Le procédé de la déshydratation est obtenu avec des méthodes traditionnelles ou, plus récemment, avec de nouveaux systèmes de perte d’eau (intensité et vitesse) avec des conséquences sur la physiologie de la baie et les aspects qualitatifs du vin. Une comparaison entre une déshydratation rapide et une lente a été effectuée sur la variété Corvina et on reporte des données biochimiques et moléculaires liées à des paramètres qualitatifs (anthocyanine, resvératrol). Un deuxième exemple est représenté par la «Terra della Valle del Piave» et son vin Raboso Piave, souvent caractérisé par un goût assez désagréable dû aux polyphénols qui ne sont pas équilibrés et mûrs. L’application de la technique DMR (Doppia Maturazione Ragionata -Double Maturation Raisonnée) permet de résoudre ce problème: on reporte les données concernant l’effet de l’application de cette technique sur les propriétés organoleptiques du vin.

In the definition and description of a “territoire” (“terra”, in Italian), together with environmental and genetic factors, an important role is also played by agronomic, technical, and cultural aspects that contribute to characterize the produce of the specific area. The production of wines obtained following partial dehydration of harvested grapes may be considered as an interesting example of “territoire” characterization. Valpolicella, a hilly area North-West of Verona (Italy), is famous not only for its homonymous wine but also for the Recioto and Amarone that are obtained following dehydration of harvested grapes. The withering process is accomplished with traditional methods, or, in recent years, with new drying systems differently affecting the loss of water process (rate, intensity) with consequences on berry physiology and wine quality traits. Slow and rapid dehydration rates have been compared and some biochemical and molecular parameters linked to quality aspects (anthocyanins, resveratrol) have been monitored in the cv Corvina. A second example is represented by “Terra della Valle del Piave” and its Raboso wine, characterized by a strong and sometimes unpleasant taste, due to unbalanced polyphenol content. The application of the DMR technique (cluster bearing canes detached and berries allowed to over-ripen in the field) solves this problem: results concerning organoleptic evaluations of grapes and wines obtained using this technique are reported.

DOI:

Publication date: January 12, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2004

Type: Article

Authors

P. Tonutti (1), G. B. Tornielli (2), G. Cargnello (3)

(1) Department of Environmental Agronomy and Crop Science – University of Padova – Sede di Conegliano Viale XXVIII Aprile, 14, 31015 Conegliano – Treviso (Italy)
(2) CIVE – University of Verona Via della Pieve 64, 37029 San Floriano-Verona (Italy)
(3) SOC Tecniche Colturali – Istituto Sperimentale per la Viticoltura Viale XXVIII Aprile, 26 31015 Conegliano – Treviso (Italy)

Contact the author

Keywords

Over-ripening, dehydration techniques, post-harvest, organoleptic quality, sensory evaluation

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2004

Citation

Related articles…

The interplay between grape ripening and weather anomalies – A modeling exercise

Current climate change is increasing inter- and intra-annual variability in atmospheric conditions leading to grapevine phenological shifts as well altered grape ripening and composition at ripeness. This study aims to (i) detect weather anomalies within a long-term time series, (ii) model grape ripening revealing altered traits in time to target specific ripeness thresholds for four Vitis vinifera cultivars, and (iii) establish empirical relationships between ripening and weather anomalies with forecasting purposes. The Day of the Year (DOY) to reach specific grape ripeness targets was determined from time series of sugar concentrations, total acidity and pH collected from a private company in the period 2009-2021 in North-Eastern Italy. Non-linear models for the DOY to reach the specified ripeness thresholds were assessed for model efficiency (EF) and error of prediction (RMSE) in four grapevine cultivars (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Glera and Garganega). For each vintage and cultivar, advances or delays in DOY to target specified ripeness thresholds were assessed with respect to the average ripening dynamics. Long-term meteorological series monitored at ground weather station by means of hourly air temperature and rainfall data were analyzed. Climate statistics were obtained and for each time period (month, bimester, quarter and year) weather anomalies were identified. A linear regression analysis was performed to assess a possible correlation that may exist between ripening and weather anomalies. For each cultivar, ripeness advances or delays expressed in number of days to target the specific ripening threshold were assessed in relation to registered weather anomalies and the specific reference time period in the vintage. Precipitation of the warmest month and spring quarter are key to understanding the effect of climate change on sugar ripeness. Minimum temperatures of May-June bimester and maximum temperatures of spring quarter best correlate with altered total acidity evolution and pH increment during the ripening process, respectively.

Diagnosis of soil quality and evaluation of the impact of viticultural practices on soil biodiversity in a vineyard in southwestern France

Viticulture is facing two major changes – climate change and agroecological transition. In both cases, soil quality is seen as a lever to move towards a more sustainable viticulture. However, soil biological quality is little considered in the implementation of viticultural practices. Gascogn’Innov (2017-2022) is an Operational Group funded by the European Innovation Partnership for Agriculture. As such, it brings together winegrowers from the south-west of France, scientists, advisors and technicians, around a project focused on viticultural soil biological functioning and the design of technical routes more respectful toward soil heritage. To achieve this, the project aims to acquire references on the impact of viticultural practices on soil biology from a dynamic way, and to test a methodology to integrate information provided by the soil bioindicators to manage farming systems. A set of indicators of soil biological quality are evaluated in the project: microorganisms (bacteria and fungi abundance and diversity), fauna (abundance and diversity of nematodes and earthworms), physico-chemical characteristics, soil structure assessment and degradation rate of organic matter. Based on a network of 13 plots that have been subject to an initial diagnosis in 2017, several agronomical practices to restore soil fertility are experimented to redesign the cropping system (for instance plant cover, organic matter inputs, reduction of herbicides, mineral fertilizers). System redesign was made in collaboration by winegrowers and an interdisciplinary group of experts (agronomists, biologists). Several indicators are measured on vine and soil at each vintage to assess vine health and productivity. At the end of the project (2021), a final diagnosis was carried out. Gascogn’Innov allowed to create a regional database on the quality of wine-growing soils, which permitted to evaluate the effect of practices according to soil types. Especially, decreasing the intensity of tillage and increasing the duration and diversity of grass coverage tends to increase the abundance of all the organisms studied. This project confirmed the value of soil biological quality indicators to drive the sustainability of practices, but also highlighted the key-role of expertise, in both agronomy and soil biology, to help winegrowers understand and appropriate their soil quality diagnoses.

Impact of long term agroecological and conventional practices on subsurface soil microbiota in Macabeu and Xarel·lo vineyards

There is a growing trend on the transition from conventional to agroecological management of vineyards. However, the impact of practices, such as reduced-tillage, organic fertilization and cover crops, is not well-understood regarding the soil microbial diversity, and its relationship with the soil physicochemical properties in the subsurface depth near the rooting zone. Soil bacterial diversity is an important contributor towards plant health, productivity and response to environmental stresses. A field experiment was conducted by sampling subsurface soil bacterial community (NGS and qPCR) near to the root zone of Macabeu and Xarel·lo vineyards, located at the Penedes. 3 organic (ECO) and 3 conventional (CON) vineyards, with more than 10 years of respective management were sampled (n=5 each plot). ECO practices did not affect bacterial and fungal abundance but increased significantly the ammonium oxidizing bacteria and alpha-diversity (Inv.Simpson). Interestingly beta-diversity was significantly affected by the management strategy. ANOSIM-tests revealed a significative effect of the management (ecological vs conventional) and plot, on the soil microbial structure (ASV abundance). Main phyla depicted were Proteobacteria, Actinobacteria and Acidobacteria, whose relative abundances were not affected by the management. EdgeR assay revealed a significant increase of Cyanobacteria and decrease of Gemmatimonadetes and Firmicutes phyla in ECO. Interestingly, the grapevine variety was not correlated with the soil microbial community structure. Mantel-test revealed an important correlation (Spearman) of some physicochemical parameters with the soil microbiota structure, in order of importance: texture, EC, pH Ca/Mg, Mg/P, K+, Mg2+, Ca2+, SO42-, and OM. N-NH4 and NTK, which were higher in the ECO managed soils, did not correlated significantly with the soil microbiome population. The results revealed the importance of combining a deep physicochemical characterization of each replicate with the microbial diversity assessment to gain better insights on the relationship between soil microbiome and vineyard management.

Aromatic maturity is a cornerstone of terroir expression in red wine

Harvesting grapes at adequate maturity is key to the production of high-quality red wines. Enologists and wine makers define several types of maturity, including technical maturity, phenolic maturity and aromatic maturity. Technical maturity and phenolic maturity are relatively well documented in the scientific literature, while articles on aromatic maturity are scarcer. This is surprising, because aromatic maturity is, without a doubt, the most important of the three in determining wine quality and typicity (including terroir expression). Optimal terroir expression can be obtained when the different types of maturity are reached at the same time, or within a short time frame. This is more likely to occur when the ripening takes place under mild temperatures, neither too cool, nor too hot. Aromatic expression in wine can be driven, from low to high maturity, by green, herbal, fresh fruit, ripe fruit, jammy fruit, candied fruit or cooked fruit aromas. Green and cooked fruit aromas are not desirable in red wines, while the levels of other aromatic compounds contribute to the typicity of the wine in relation to its origin. Wines produced in cool climates, or on cool soils in temperate climates, are likely to express herbal or fresh fruit aromas; while wines produced under warm climates, or on warm soils in temperate climates, may express ripe fruit, jammy fruit or candied fruit aromas. Growers can optimize terroir expression through their choice of grapevine variety. Early ripening varieties perform better in cool climates and late ripening varieties in warm climates. Additionally, maturity can be advanced or delayed by different canopy management practices or training systems.

Influence of agronomic practices in soil water content in mid-mountain vineyards

In the context of LIFE project MIDMACC (LIFE18 CCA/ES/001099), several pilots have been installed in vineyards in mid mountain areas of Catalonia (NE Spain) to test well stablished agronomic practices to increase the adaptation of Mediterranean mid mountain to climate change. Soil water content (SWC) at three different depths (15, 30 and 45cm) was measured in continuum from August 2020. One pilot (WC) included a well-established green cover (GC), a new GC (NC) and a conventional soil management (CM, tilling+herbicides). NC presented an intermediate state between WC and CM, responding similarly to CM in autumn but quickly reaching similar SWC to WC, then following the same evolution till next spring, with CM presenting lower values along autumn and winter. Then vegetation activation decreased SWC in all plots, (much slower in CM, lacking GC). Sensibility to spring rains is again intermediate for NC, which joins SWC evolution of CM by the end of spring till next autumn. It is expected that NC will resemble WC more and more as its GC develops. In the pilot combining vine training (VSP vs Gobelet) and hillside management (slope vs terrace), no clear pattern could be related with these conditions. However, both terraces seem to be more sensitive to spring rains. A third pilot included new vineyards (7 and 1 year old). In the new vineyard (N), higher canopy development, a spontaneous green cover and row straw resulted in a slower SWC dynamic, not so sensitive to rains but conserving more soil water in spring and most of summer, even with presumably a higher water extraction by vines. In the newest vineyard (VN) the deepest sensor is still sensitive to rain events all over the year and SWC is always highest at this depth, revealing small water capture by vines.