A climatic characterisation of the sub-Appellations in the Niagara Peninsula wine region

In the 19th century, devastating outbreaks of phylloxera (Daktulosphaira vitifoliae Fitch), almost brought European viticulture to its knees. Phylloxera does not only take energy in form of sugars from the vine, but also affects the up- and down- regulations of genes, acts as a carbon sink and reprograms the physiology of the grapevines, including nutrient uptake and the defense system [1]. A key trait of rootstocks is the ability to perform well under high lime conditions as about 30 % of the land surface has calcareous soil. Iron deficiency not only causes the well-known problems of lime-induced chlorosis and stunted growth, but also affects the entire plant metabolism.

Climate can greatly affect grape yield and quality (van Leeuwen et al., 2024). Growing suitable cultivars in a given region and or breed environmental resilient cultivars are essential for maintaining viticulture sustainability, particularly in the face of climate change (Wolkovich et al., 2018).

Since the 18th century, sulfur dioxide (SO2) is used in winemaking. Added at different steps, its antimicrobial but also antioxidasic and antioxidant properties are very helpful for winemakers. Nevertheless sulfur dioxide has a real potential health impact, particularly for sensitive consumers often highlighted by hygienists. Nowadays, a serious trend for “natural” wines (i.e. produced without any additives), as described by their producers, could be observed on the French market what match with a proliferation of wines elaborated without any sulfite addition. 

One of the main sensory characteristics of red wine is astringency, which can be defined as drying, puckering and roughing of the oral cavity after the exposure to tannin-rich wines. Tannins are the main responsible for the intensity of the sensation as well for the qualitative aspects of astringency. However, the total intensity of the sensation is not sufficient to fully characterize red wine astringency. Thirty-three different subqualities (Gawel et al. 2001) had been generated to describe the complexity of this multi perceptual phenomenon, which includes both tastes, tactile, and flavor sensations. So, how to feel tannins during tasting? In this study, we used a sensory method that combine the training for astringency subqualities with touch-standards and the CATA questions, usually applied in consumer science, to evaluate the astringency subqualities of different typologies of Sangiovese: commercial and experimental wines. Sangiovese wine represents a good model for the study of astringency because it is generally characterized by a high content of low and high molecular weight proantocyanidins. Commercial wines differed for percentage of Sangiovese (80-100 %) grapes used in winemaking and for designation (Toscana TS, Chianti Classico CH, Chianti Riserva CR, Morellino di Scansano MS). The astringency profile of wines changed as the percentage of Sangiovese increased. Positive subqualities as velvet, soft, mouthcoat, and rich highly characterized the Sangiovese wine belonging to TS and CR designations. Moreover, the astringency subqualities related to blending or wood aging, represented the drivers of quality of commercial Sangiovese wines.

Astringency sensation decreases slowly during the aging of red wine. Complex reactions of condensation and precipitation of wine polyphenols are involved in this phenomenon. Wine composition and conditions of aging, such as temperature and oxygen availability, strongly influence evolution of the phenol matrix. Recently, a Post-Fermentative cold Maceration (PFM) technique was tested with the aim of accelerating reactions leading to the reduction of astringency and exploiting chemical compounds not extracted from the solid parts of grapes during the previous traditional maceration phase. To this purpose, an innovative maceration system was engineered and used to perform PFM trials on marc derived from vinification of different varieties of red grapes.