Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Review of the delimited zone of the AOC Saint-Joseph

Review of the delimited zone of the AOC Saint-Joseph

Abstract

L’appellation d’origine contrôlée repose sur une définition précise de l’aire de production du raisin. Cette délimitation définie par l’Institut National des Appellations d’Origine est proposée par des experts choisis pour leurs compétences dans le domaine de la connaissance de la relation terroir – vins, après avis du syndicat de défense de chaque AOC. L’exemple choisi concerne l’AOC St Joseph située dans les Cotes du Rhône dites Septentrionales. Celle-ci avait été définie en 1956 sur 6 communes autour de Tournon en Ardèche. Elle fut étendue à 20 autres communes en 1969. A cette époque, les experts ont pris en compte l’incertitude vis-à-vis de l’avenir viticole des coteaux qui dominent la vallée du Rhône. En effet, pour les entretenir, ceux-ci nécessitaient des ressources humaines qui commençaient à se faire rare. Cette idée conduisit ainsi à délimiter une zone de production assez large afin d’étendre l’appellation à des terrains compatibles avec les moyens modernes d’exploitation liés à la mécanisation. Au milieu des années 1980,dans sa sagesse, la réflexion du syndicat de défense de l’appellation vis à vis de l’avenir de l’AOC St Joseph l’amènera, à prendre conscience de la dérive qui pouvait conduire à une banalisation des vins de l’AOC St Joseph du fait de la délocalisation du vignoble permise par la décision de 1969. Dès 1986, le syndicat demande alors à l’INAO la possibilité d’engager une révision de l’aire délimitée pour respecter l’implantation en coteaux de la vigne,situation qui a fait la notoriété de cette AOC. Après de nombreux travaux sur le terrain et après un long travail de persuasion des différents acteurs de l’appellation, une nouvelle délimitation vit le jour en 1994. Ainsi, l’aire de production potentielle est désormais réduite de 6850 ha à 3400 ha afin de recentrer le vignoble sur les coteaux, éléments fondateurs de cette appellation. Cette opération conduisit également à exclure des vignes déjà plantées: sur 755 ha de vignes que comportait l’AOC en 1992, 170 ha furent éliminés. Des mesures d’accompagnement notamment incitation financière pour planter dans les coteaux ont été retenues et ont permis de faire accepter cette opération douloureuse. Aujourd’hui le recentrage du vignoble dans les coteaux a permis de recadrer l’image de l’AOC St Joseph et de mieux affirmer l’identité de ses vins. Elle a permis également de faire revivre le paysage viticole des coteaux dominant la vallée du Rhône dans des conditions économiques satisfaisantes permettant une meilleure valorisation du produit. Des mesures d’accompagnement notamment incitation financière pour planter dans les coteaux ont été retenues et ont permis de faire accepter cette opération douloureuse. Aujourd’hui le recentrage du vignoble dans les coteaux a permis de recadrer l’image de l’AOC St Joseph et de mieux affirmer l’identité de ses vins. Elle a permis également de faire revivre le paysage viticole des coteaux dominant la vallée du Rhône dans des conditions économiques satisfaisantes permettant une meilleure valorisation du produit. Cet exemple montre qu’un travail d’experts, réalisé en lien avec les «porteurs de mémoire» que représente le syndicat de défense d’une AOC permet de retrouver les éléments fondamentaux qui constituent le «terroir» de l’AOC St Joseph: un paysage, des vignes en coteaux et un savoir-faire dans un milieu difficile pour révéler un vin prestigieux.

DOI:

Publication date: February 3, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2002

Type: Article

Authors

Gilbert FRIBOURG

Institut National des Appellations, 17, Rue Jacquard ZI des Auréats, 26000 VALENCE

Keywords

appellation d’origine, délimitation, révision, coteaux, AOC St Joseph

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2002

Citation

Related articles…

Impact of changes in pruning practices on vine growth and yield

A gradual decline in vineyards has been observed over the past twenty years worldwide. This might be explained by the climate change, practices change or the increase of dieback diseases. To increase the longevity of vines, we studied the impact of different pruning strategies in four adult and four young vineyards located in France and Spain. In France, vineyards were planted with Cabernet franc on 3309C while Spanish trials were planted with Tempranillo grafted on 110R. Vegetative expression, yield, quality of berries and wood vessels conductivity were measured. The distribution of vegetative expression, yield and berry composition between primary and secondary vegetation were quantified. Finally, tomography was used to evaluate the implication of the treatments on sap flows. First results show that i) the respectful pruning leads to an increase of 30 to 50% more secondary shoots than the aggressive pruning in France and between 15 and 20% in Spain, ii) there is no major effect on the yield over the first two years following the implementation of the new pruning practices, although the proportion of clusters from suckers is higher on the respectful pruning method. On young vines, the development of the trunk according to a respectful pruning leads to a loss of harvest 2 years after planting. This is due to the removal, on the future trunk, of the green suckers which carrying bunches. This operation carried out in spring rather than during winter pruning, would promote a better leaf / fruit balance when the plant comes into production, and could lead to better hydraulic conduction in the vessels of the trunk. Maintaining these trials for several years will provide more robust data to assess the impact of these practices on the vines over the long term.

Protected Designation of Origin (D.P.O.) Valdepeñas: classification and map of soils

The objective of the work described here is the elaboration of a map of the different types of vineyard soils that to guide the famers in the choice of the most productive vine rootstocks and varieties. 90 vineyard soils profiles were analysed in the entire territory of the Origen Denominations of Valdepeñas. The sampling was carried out in 2018 (June to October) by making a sampling grid, followed by photointerpretation and control in the field. The studied soils can be grouped into 9 different soil types (according to FAO 2006 classification): Leptosols, Regosols, Fluvisols, Gleysols, Cambisols, Calcisols, Luvisols and Anthrosols. A map showing the soil distribution with different type of soils has been made with the ArcGIS program. Regarding to the choice of rootstock, Calcisoles are soils with a high active limestone content, so the rootstocks used in these soils must be resistant to this parameter; Luvisols are deep soils with high clay content, so they will support vigorous rootstocks. Because the cartographic units are composed of two or more subgroups, with are associated in variable proportions, 9 different soil associations have been established; Unit 1: Leptosols, Cambisols and Luvisols (80%, 15% and 5% respectively); Unit 2: Cambisols with Regosols and Luvisols (40%, 30% and 30% respectively); Unit 3: Cambisols and Gleysols with Regosols (40%, 40% and 20% respectively); Unit 4: Regosols with Cambisols, Leptosols and Calcisols (40%, 30%, 15% and 15% respectively); Unit 5: Cambisols, Leptosols, Calcisols and Regosols (25% each of them); Unit 6: Luvisols with Cambisol and Calcisols (80%, 10% and 10% respectively); Unit 7: Luvisols and Calcisols with Cambisols (40%, 40% and 20% respectively); Unit 8: Calcisols with, Cambisols and Luvisols (80%, 10% and 10% respectively); Unit 9: Anthrosols. These study allow to elaborate the first map of vineyard soils of this Protected Designation of Origin in Castilla-La Mancha.

Climate, Viticulture, and Wine … my how things have changed!

The planet is warmer than at any time in our recorded past and increasing greenhouse emissions and persistence in the climate system means that continued warming is highly likely. Climate change has already altered the basic framework of growing grapes for wine production worldwide and will likely continue to do so for years to come. The wine sector can continue to play an important role in leading the agricultural sector in addressing climate change. From developing on…

Grape berry size is a key factor in determining New Zealand Pinot noir wine composition

Making high quality but affordable Pinot noir (PN) wine is challenging in most terroirs and New Zealand’s (NZ) situation is no exception. To increase the probability of making highly typical PN wines producers choose to grow grapes in cool climates on lower fertility soils while adopting labour intensive practices. Stringent yield targets and higher input costs necessarily mean that PN wine cost is high, and profitability lower, in line-priced varietal wine ranges. To understand the reasons why higher yielding vines are perceived to produce wines of lower quality we have undertaken an extensive study of PN in NZ. Since 2018, we established a network of twelve trial sites in three NZ regions to find individual vines that produced acceptable commercial yields (above 2.5kg per vine) and wines of composition comparable to “Icon” labels. Approximately 20% of 660 grape lots (N = 135) were selected from within a narrow juice Total Soluble Solids (TSS) range and made into single vine wines under controlled conditions. Principal Component Analysis of the vine, berry, juice and wine parameters from three vintages found grape berry mass to be most effective clustering variable. As berry mass category decreased there was a systematic increase in the probability of higher berry red colour and total phenolics with a parallel increase in wine phenolics, changed aroma fraction and decreased juice amino acids. The influence of berry size on wine composition would appear stronger than the individual effects of vintage, region, vineyard or vine yield. Our observations support the hypothesis that it is possible to produce PN wines that fall within an “Icon” benchmark composition range at yields above 2.5kg per vine provided that the Leaf Area:Fruit Weight ratio is above 12cm2 per g, mean berry mass is below 1.2g and juice TSS is above 22°Brix.

Legacy of land-cover changes on soil erosion and microbiology in Burgundian vineyards

Soils in vineyards are recognized as complex agrosystems whose characteristics reflect complex interactions between natural factors (lithology, climate, slope, biodiversity) and human activities. To date, most of the unknown lies in an incomplete understanding of soil ecosystems, and specifically in the microbial biodiversity even though soil microbiota is involved in many key functions, such as nutrient cycling and carbon sequestration. Soil biological properties are indicative of soil quality. Therefore, understanding how soil communities are related to soil ecosystem functioning is becoming an essential issue for soil strategy conservation. Here, we propose to assess the importance of land-cover history on the present-day microbiological and physico-chemical properties. The studied area was selected in the Burgundian vineyards (Pernand-Vergelesses, Burgundy, France) where land occupation has been reconstructed over the last 40 years. Soil samples were collected in five areas reflecting various land cover history (forest, vineyards, shifting from forest to vineyards). For each area, physico-chemical parameters (pH, C, N, P, grain size) were measured and DNA was extracted to characterize the abundance and diversity of microbial communities. The obtained results show significant differences in the five areas suggesting that present-day microbial molecular biomass and bacterial taxonomic is partly inherited from past land occupation. Over longer period of time, such study of land-uses legacies may help to better assess ecosystem recovery and the impact of management practices for a better soil quality and vineyards sustainability.