Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 The evolution of the concept of geographical denomination in South America

The evolution of the concept of geographical denomination in South America

Abstract

Vers la fin du XX siècle, la vitiviniculture argentine a subi une profonde transformation qualitative atteignant toute la filière. L’analyse de l’évolution de la superficie des vignobles, l’élaboration des vins, la consommation et les exportations, permet de mettre en évidence ces changements. Dans ce contexte, l’origine apparaît comme un outil de force, d’expansion et de succès sur les marchés.
Par rapport aux aires de production viticole, il y a certains antécédents de zonage, résultant de l’étude d’un ensemble de facteurs empiriques et historiques qui ont permis de délimiter les régions dans lesquelles la vitiviniculture argentine s’est développée. Ces régions comprennent une longue bande Nord-Sud, à pente variable, située à l’Ouest du pays, au pied de la Cordillère des Andes, qui jointe à la topographie des vallées, présentent de grandes variations écologiques. Ces caractéristiques ainsi que la diversité de sols, permettent de définir trois régions: Nord­Ouest, Centre-Ouest et Sud, divisées à leur tour en sous-régions.
D’autres études plus restreintes visant à délimiter certaines aires déterminées ont été réalisées: Lujan de Cuyo, Valle de Uco, San Rafael, Maipu de la Province de Mendoza et Valle de Famatina dans la Province de La Rioja. Ces études analysent des facteurs naturels: géologiques et pédologiques, climatiques, des aspects associés au paysage et d’autres facteurs contribuant à caractériser le milieu, par le type de travail agronomique et par le comportement des différentes variétés.
Malgré les antécédents précédents, la notion d’origine est assez récente en Argentine et elle est conçue à partir des engagements pris au niveau international par rapport à la protection des indications géographiques (ADPIC, OMC) pour les vins et les boissons spiritueuses d’origine vitivinicole. C’est ainsi que, en 1999, la Loi N° 25.163 établit un système de reconnaissance, de protection et d’enregistrement des noms géographiques argentins pour la désignation des vins et des boissons spiritueuses d’origine vitivinicole, dont les qualités et les caractéristiques peuvent être attribuées à leur origine géographique.
Cette Loi distingue trois catégories de désignations: l’Indication de Provenance, l’Indication Géographique et l’Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, pour lesquelles on établit les conditions pour pouvoir avoir droit à leur emploi. L’Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura en est l’autorité d’application.
Par rapport au concept d’appellation d’origine dans d’autres pays de l’Amérique du Sud, il y a des antécédents au Chili, au Brésil, en Bolivie, pour lesquels seront présentés les principes généraux.

 By the end of the 20th century, Argentine winemaking industry went through a deep qualitative transformation involving its whole chain of production. A survey on the evolution of vineyard­-planted area, winemaking practices, consumption levels and export figures all attest to such changes. Within that context, the geographical origin of wine appears as an instrument of strength, expansion and success in the markets.
As regards the areas of wine production, there exists some background about zoning, which results from the analysis of a set of empirical and historical aspects that have made it possible to delimit the regions within which Argentine winemaking has been developed. These regions lie on a wide north-south stretch, with variable slope, on the west of the country, at the foot of the Andes Range. Combined with the topography of the valleys, this location provides significant ecological variations. These features, plus the diversity of soils, make it possible to differentiate three main regions: Northwest, Centre-West and South, each one in turn divided into sub­regions.
In addition, more restricted studies have been conducted to define some specific areas: Lujan de Cuyo, Uco Valley, San Rafael and Maipu in the province of Mendoza, and the Famatina Valley in the province of La Rioja. These studies analyze natural factors, geological and pedological, climatic, landscape and still other factors contributing to a characterization of the environment through the determination of agricultural management and the behavior of different stock varieties.
However, despite the previous referential aspects, the notion of origin starts to be consolidated in Argentina as a result of international agreements related to the protection of geographical denominations or indications (ADPIC, WTO) for wines and wine-based spirits. It is thus that in 1999, Act of Congress 25.163 is passed establishing a system of recognition, protection and register of Argentine geographical denominations to identify wines and wine-based spirits whose qualities and characteristics may be attributed to their geographical origin.
This Act distinguishes three categories of appellation: Origin Indication, Geographical Denomination and D.O.C. (controlled denomination of origin), for which the compliance requisites and right of use are laid out. The regulating body is the Argentine Wine Institute.
In relation to the concept of geographical denomination in other South American countries, there are antecedents in Chile, Brazil and Bolivia, whose general regulating principles will be pres
ented here.

DOI:

Publication date: February 16, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2002 

Type: Article

Authors

Virginia Biaiñ de Martínez

Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura
San Martin 430 (5500) MENDOZA, ARGENTINA

Contact the author

Keywords

vitiviniculture, origine, vigne, vin, aire de production, délimitation, sol, climat

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2002

Citation

Related articles…

Modulation of berry composition by different vineyard management practices

High concentration of sugars in grapes and alcohol in wines is one of the consequences of climate change on viticulture production in several wine-growing regions. In order to investigate the possibilities of adaptation of vineyard management practices aimed to reduce the accumulation of sugar during the maturation phase without reducing the accumulation of anthocyanins in grapes, a study with severe shoot trimming, shoot thinning, cluster thinning and date of harvest was conducted on Merlot variety in Istria region (Croatia), under the Mediterranean climate. Four factors which may affect grape maturation and its composition at harvest were investigated in a two-years experiment; severe shoot trimming applied at veraison when >80% of berries changed colour (in comparison to untreated control), shoot thinning (0 and 30%), cluster thinning (0 and 30%), and the date of harvest (early and standard harvest dates). Shoot thinning had no significant impact on berry composition, despite the obtained reduction in yield per vine. Lower Brix in grapes were obtained with earlier harvest date and if no cluster thinning was applied, although at the same time a reduction in the concentration of anthocyanins in berries was observed in these treatments. On the other hand, if severe shoot trimming was applied when >80% of berries changed colour, a reduction of Brix was obtained without a negative impact on berry anthocyanins concentration. We conclude that in cases when undesirably high sugar concentrations at harvest are expected, severe shoot trimming at 80% veraison may effectively be used in order to obtain moderate sugar concentration in berries together with the adequate phenolic composition.

The interplay between grape ripening and weather anomalies – A modeling exercise

Current climate change is increasing inter- and intra-annual variability in atmospheric conditions leading to grapevine phenological shifts as well altered grape ripening and composition at ripeness. This study aims to (i) detect weather anomalies within a long-term time series, (ii) model grape ripening revealing altered traits in time to target specific ripeness thresholds for four Vitis vinifera cultivars, and (iii) establish empirical relationships between ripening and weather anomalies with forecasting purposes. The Day of the Year (DOY) to reach specific grape ripeness targets was determined from time series of sugar concentrations, total acidity and pH collected from a private company in the period 2009-2021 in North-Eastern Italy. Non-linear models for the DOY to reach the specified ripeness thresholds were assessed for model efficiency (EF) and error of prediction (RMSE) in four grapevine cultivars (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Glera and Garganega). For each vintage and cultivar, advances or delays in DOY to target specified ripeness thresholds were assessed with respect to the average ripening dynamics. Long-term meteorological series monitored at ground weather station by means of hourly air temperature and rainfall data were analyzed. Climate statistics were obtained and for each time period (month, bimester, quarter and year) weather anomalies were identified. A linear regression analysis was performed to assess a possible correlation that may exist between ripening and weather anomalies. For each cultivar, ripeness advances or delays expressed in number of days to target the specific ripening threshold were assessed in relation to registered weather anomalies and the specific reference time period in the vintage. Precipitation of the warmest month and spring quarter are key to understanding the effect of climate change on sugar ripeness. Minimum temperatures of May-June bimester and maximum temperatures of spring quarter best correlate with altered total acidity evolution and pH increment during the ripening process, respectively.

Impact of yeast derivatives to increase the phenolic maturity and aroma intensity of wine

Using viticultural and enological techniques to increase aromatics in white wine is a prized yet challenging technique for commercial wine producers. Equally difficult are challenges encountered in hastening phenolic maturity and thereby increasing color intensity in red wines. The ability to alter organoleptic and visual properties of wines plays a decisive role in vintages in which grapes are not able to reach full maturity, which is seen increasingly more often as a result of climate change. A new, yeast-based product on the viticultural market may give the opportunity to increase sensory properties of finished wines. Manufacturer packaging claims these yeast derivatives intensify wine aromas of white grape varieties, as well as improve phenolic ripeness of red varieties, but the effects of this application have been little researched until now. The current study applied the yeast derivative, according to the manufacture’s instructions, to the leaves of both neutral and aromatic white wine varieties, as well as on structured red wine varieties. Chemical parameters and volatile aromatics were analyzed in grape musts and finished wines, and all wines were subjected to sensory analysis by a tasting panel. Collective results of all analyses showed that the application of the yeast derivative in the vineyard showed no effect across all varieties examined, and did not intensify white wine aromatics, nor improve phenolic ripeness and color intensity in red wine.

Mesoclimate impact on Tannat in the Atlantic terroir of Uruguay

The study of climate is relevant as an element conditioning the typicity of a product, its quality and sustainability over the years. The grapevine development and growth and the final grape and wine composition are closely related to temperature, while climate components vary at mesoscale according to topography and/or proximity to large bodies of water. The objective of this work is to assess the mesoclimate of the Atlantic region of Uruguay and to determine the effect of topography and the ocean on temperature and consequently on Tannat grapevine behavior.

How distinctive are single vineyard Gewürztraminer musts and wines from Alto Adige (Italy) based on untargeted analysis, sensory profiling, and chemometric elaboration?

Vitis vinifera L. ‘Gewürztraminer’ is a historical grape variety of Alto Adige (Südtirol), Italy, which is widely grown in the area of Tramin an der Weinstraße, but is also grown globally. It produces highly aromatic wines that are strongly influenced by the terroir of the vineyard sites where they are grown. This study looked at musts and young wines from ‘Gewürztraminer’ grapes harvested in seven distinct vineyards near Tramin and then processed at Cantina di Termeno, minimizing winemaking protocol variability. Samples were profiled using bidimensional gas chromatography–time-of-flight mass spectrometry, liquid chromatography coupled to electrochemical detection, and near-IR spectrometry. The data were subjected to Principle Component Analysis and Hierarchical Clustering Analysis. Sensory discriminant testing was undertaken using the sorting method with a semi-trained panel, and the data were processed using Multidimensional Scaling. Seven must/wine pairs could be distinguished based on their untargeted volatilome profiles and on sensory evaluation. As expected, there were greater differences in the volatile compounds between the wines than between the musts. The wines from vineyards 4 and 5 were nonetheless quite homogenous in terms of chemical and sensory analyses, as were the wines from vineyards 1 and 3. For the phenolic profile, differences were noted between the musts and wines of vineyards 2, 3, and 4, but the musts from vineyards 5 and 7 were similar. Sensory analysis showed the wines from vineyards 6 and 7 to be distinct from the rest. These results reinforce that the composition of ‘Gewürztraminer’ musts and wines is strongly determined by vineyard site, even in a small geographic area with high variability of the terroir (soil and microclimate), and that these differences are apparent in the flavours and aromas of the finished wines. Further confirmation would require a larger sample of wines, preferably from several vintages.