Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 The evolution of the concept of geographical denomination in South America

The evolution of the concept of geographical denomination in South America

Abstract

Vers la fin du XX siècle, la vitiviniculture argentine a subi une profonde transformation qualitative atteignant toute la filière. L’analyse de l’évolution de la superficie des vignobles, l’élaboration des vins, la consommation et les exportations, permet de mettre en évidence ces changements. Dans ce contexte, l’origine apparaît comme un outil de force, d’expansion et de succès sur les marchés.
Par rapport aux aires de production viticole, il y a certains antécédents de zonage, résultant de l’étude d’un ensemble de facteurs empiriques et historiques qui ont permis de délimiter les régions dans lesquelles la vitiviniculture argentine s’est développée. Ces régions comprennent une longue bande Nord-Sud, à pente variable, située à l’Ouest du pays, au pied de la Cordillère des Andes, qui jointe à la topographie des vallées, présentent de grandes variations écologiques. Ces caractéristiques ainsi que la diversité de sols, permettent de définir trois régions: Nord­Ouest, Centre-Ouest et Sud, divisées à leur tour en sous-régions.
D’autres études plus restreintes visant à délimiter certaines aires déterminées ont été réalisées: Lujan de Cuyo, Valle de Uco, San Rafael, Maipu de la Province de Mendoza et Valle de Famatina dans la Province de La Rioja. Ces études analysent des facteurs naturels: géologiques et pédologiques, climatiques, des aspects associés au paysage et d’autres facteurs contribuant à caractériser le milieu, par le type de travail agronomique et par le comportement des différentes variétés.
Malgré les antécédents précédents, la notion d’origine est assez récente en Argentine et elle est conçue à partir des engagements pris au niveau international par rapport à la protection des indications géographiques (ADPIC, OMC) pour les vins et les boissons spiritueuses d’origine vitivinicole. C’est ainsi que, en 1999, la Loi N° 25.163 établit un système de reconnaissance, de protection et d’enregistrement des noms géographiques argentins pour la désignation des vins et des boissons spiritueuses d’origine vitivinicole, dont les qualités et les caractéristiques peuvent être attribuées à leur origine géographique.
Cette Loi distingue trois catégories de désignations: l’Indication de Provenance, l’Indication Géographique et l’Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, pour lesquelles on établit les conditions pour pouvoir avoir droit à leur emploi. L’Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura en est l’autorité d’application.
Par rapport au concept d’appellation d’origine dans d’autres pays de l’Amérique du Sud, il y a des antécédents au Chili, au Brésil, en Bolivie, pour lesquels seront présentés les principes généraux.

 By the end of the 20th century, Argentine winemaking industry went through a deep qualitative transformation involving its whole chain of production. A survey on the evolution of vineyard­-planted area, winemaking practices, consumption levels and export figures all attest to such changes. Within that context, the geographical origin of wine appears as an instrument of strength, expansion and success in the markets.
As regards the areas of wine production, there exists some background about zoning, which results from the analysis of a set of empirical and historical aspects that have made it possible to delimit the regions within which Argentine winemaking has been developed. These regions lie on a wide north-south stretch, with variable slope, on the west of the country, at the foot of the Andes Range. Combined with the topography of the valleys, this location provides significant ecological variations. These features, plus the diversity of soils, make it possible to differentiate three main regions: Northwest, Centre-West and South, each one in turn divided into sub­regions.
In addition, more restricted studies have been conducted to define some specific areas: Lujan de Cuyo, Uco Valley, San Rafael and Maipu in the province of Mendoza, and the Famatina Valley in the province of La Rioja. These studies analyze natural factors, geological and pedological, climatic, landscape and still other factors contributing to a characterization of the environment through the determination of agricultural management and the behavior of different stock varieties.
However, despite the previous referential aspects, the notion of origin starts to be consolidated in Argentina as a result of international agreements related to the protection of geographical denominations or indications (ADPIC, WTO) for wines and wine-based spirits. It is thus that in 1999, Act of Congress 25.163 is passed establishing a system of recognition, protection and register of Argentine geographical denominations to identify wines and wine-based spirits whose qualities and characteristics may be attributed to their geographical origin.
This Act distinguishes three categories of appellation: Origin Indication, Geographical Denomination and D.O.C. (controlled denomination of origin), for which the compliance requisites and right of use are laid out. The regulating body is the Argentine Wine Institute.
In relation to the concept of geographical denomination in other South American countries, there are antecedents in Chile, Brazil and Bolivia, whose general regulating principles will be pres
ented here.

DOI:

Publication date: February 16, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2002 

Type: Article

Authors

Virginia Biaiñ de Martínez

Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura
San Martin 430 (5500) MENDOZA, ARGENTINA

Contact the author

Keywords

vitiviniculture, origine, vigne, vin, aire de production, délimitation, sol, climat

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2002

Citation

Related articles…

Measurement of redox potential as a new analytical winegrowing tool

Excell laboratory has initiated the development of an analytical method based on electrochemistry to evaluate the ability of wines to undergo or resist to oxidative phenomena. Electrochemistry is a powerful tool to probe reactions involving electron transfers and offers possibility of real-time measurements. In that context, the laboratory has implemented electrochemical analysis to assess oxidation state of different wine matrices but also in order to evaluate oxidative or reduced character of leaf and soil. Initially, our laboratory focused on dosage of compounds involved in responses of plant stresses and we were also interested in microbiological activity of soils. These analyses were compared with the measurement of redox potential (Eh) and pH which are two fundamental variables involved in the modulation of plant metabolism. Indeed, the variation of redox states of the plant reflects its biological activity but also its capacity to absorb nutriments. The Eh-pH conditions mainly determine metabolic processes involved in soil and leaf and our goal is to determine if this combined analytical approach will be sufficiently precise to detect biological evolutions (plant health, parasitic attack…).

Understanding graft union formation by using metabolomic and transcriptomic approaches during the first days after grafting in grapevine

Since the arrival of Phyloxera (Daktulosphaira vitifolia) in Europe at the end of the 19th century, grafting has become essential to cultivate Vitis vinifera. Today, grafting provides not only resistance to this aphid, but it used to adapt the cultivars according to the type of soil, environment, or grape production requirements by using a panel of rootstocks. As part of vineyard decline, it is often mentioned the importance of producing quality grafted grapevine to improve vineyard longevity, but, to our knowledge, no study has been able to demonstrate that grafting has a role in this context. However, some scion/rootstock combinations are considered as incompatible due to poor graft union formation and subsequently high plant mortality soon after grafting. In a context of climate change where the creation of new cultivars and rootstocks is at the centre of research, the ability of new cultivars to be grafted is therefore essential. The early identification of graft incompatibility could allow the selection of non-viable plants before planting and would have a beneficial impact on research and development in the nursery sector. For this reason, our studies have focused on the identification of metabolic and transcriptomic markers of poor grafting success during the first days/week after grafting; we have identified some correlations between some specialized metabolites, especially stilbenes, and grafting success, as well as an accumulation of some amino acids in the incompatible combination. The study of the metabolome and the transcriptome allowed us to understand and characterise the processes involved during graft union formation.

The use of rootstock as a lever in the face of climate change and dieback of vineyard

As viticulture faces challenges such as climate change or vineyard dieback, the choice of the variety and rootstock becomes more and more crucial. To study rootstock levers in the Bordeaux region, a parcel of Cabernet Sauvignon (CS) was planted with four rootstocks in 2014. Twenty repetitions of each of the following four rootstocks were set up: 101-14 MGt, Nemadex AB, 420A MGt and Gravesac. The number of bunches, yields and pruning weights of the vine shoots were measured individually on 240 vines from 2017 to 2021. Since 2020, nitrogen status assessed by assimilable nitrogen level, hydric status assessed by δ13C and berry maturity were measured on 80 samples taken from 20 repetitions of the four rootstocks. A lower yield was measured for CS grafted onto Nemadex AB due to the lower number of bunches and the lower weight of berries. The differences between the other three rootstocks are small, but CS grafted onto 420A MGt was the most productive. The CS grafted onto Nemadex AB had the lowest pruning weight while 101-14 MGt had the highest. In 2020, δ13C showed a more moderate water stress with 101-14 MGt and 420A MGt than with Nemadex AB. Surprisingly, the Gravesac was under more stress than the 101-14 MGt. The nitrogen status in the berries was better for Nemadex AB but this was perhaps due to the significantly lower weight of the berries.Rootstock 101-14 MGt attained the highest accumulation of sugars in the berries while 420A MGt allows to preserve higher acidity. The parcel is still young which may explain some of the results. These measures must therefore be continued over the next several years to fully assess the effects of these rootstocks on the development of the vines and the quality of the production under new climatic conditions.

Investigating the impact of grape exposure and UV radiations on rotundone in Vitis vinifera L. Tardif grapes under field trial conditions

Rotundone is the main aroma compound responsible for peppery notes in wines whose biosynthesis is negatively affected by heat and drought. Through the alteration of precipitation regime and the increase in temperature during maturation, climate change is expected to affect wine peppery typicality. In this context there is a demand for developing sustainable viticultural strategies to enhance rotundone accumulation or limit its degradation. It was recently proposed that ultraviolet (UV) radiations could stimulate rotundone production. The aim of this study was to investigate under field trial conditions the impact of grape exposure and UV treatments on rotundone in Vitis vinifera L. Tardif, an almost extinct grape variety from south-west France that can express particularly high rotundone levels. Four different treatments were compared in 2021 to a control treatment using a randomised complete block design with three replications per treatment. Grape exposure was manipulated through early or late defoliation. Leaf and laterals shoots were removed at Eichorn Lorenz growth stages 32 or 34 on the morning-sun side of the canopy. During grape maturation, UV radiations were either reduced by 99% by installing UV radiation-shielding sheets, or applied four times using the Boxilumix™ non thermal device (Asclepios Tech, Tournefeuille) with the aim of activating plant signalling pathway. Loggers displayed in solar radiation shields were used to assess the effect of such shielding sheets on air temperature within the bunch zone. The composition of grapes subjected to these treatments will be soon analysed for their rotundone content and basic classical laboratory analyses. Grapes will be harvested to elaborate wines under standardized small-scale vinification conditions (60kg) that will be assessed by a trained sensory panel.

Adapting the vineyard to climate change in warm climate regions with cultural practices

Since the 1980s global regime shift, grape growers have been steadily adapting to a changing climate. These adaptations have preserved the region-climate-cultivar rapports that have established the global trade of wine with lucrative economic benefits since the middle of 17th century. The advent of using fractions of crop and actual evapotranspiration replacement in vineyards with the use of supplemental irrigation has furthered the adaptation of wine grape cultivation. The shift in trellis systems, as well as pruning methods from positioned shoot systems to sprawling canopies, as well as adapting the bearing surface from head-trained, cane-pruned to cordon-trained, spur-pruned systems have also aided in the adaptation of grapevine to warmer temperatures. In warm climates, the use of shade cloth or over-head shade films not only have aided in arresting the damage of heat waves, but also identified opportunities to reduce the evapotranspiration from vineyards, reducing environmental footprint of vineyard. Our increase in knowledge on how best to understand the response of grapevine to climate change was aided with the identification of solar radiation exposure biomarker that is now used for phenotyping cultivars in their adaptability to harsh environments. Using fruit-based metrics such as sugar-flavonoid relationships were shown to be better indicators of losses in berry integrity associated with a warming climate, rather than solely focusing on region-climate-cultivar rapports. The resilience of wine grape was further enhanced by exploitation of rootstock × scion combinations that can resist untoward droughts and warm temperatures by making more resilient grapevine combinations. Our understanding of soil-plant-atmosphere continuum in the vineyard has increased within the last 50 years in such a manner that growers are able to use no-till systems with the aid of arbuscular mycorrhiza fungi inoculation with permanent cover cropping making the vineyard more resilient to droughts and heat waves. In premium wine grape regions viticulture has successfully adapted to a rapidly changing climate thus far, but berry based metrics are raising a concern that we may be approaching a tipping point.