Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 The evolution of the concept of geographical denomination in South America

The evolution of the concept of geographical denomination in South America

Abstract

Vers la fin du XX siècle, la vitiviniculture argentine a subi une profonde transformation qualitative atteignant toute la filière. L’analyse de l’évolution de la superficie des vignobles, l’élaboration des vins, la consommation et les exportations, permet de mettre en évidence ces changements. Dans ce contexte, l’origine apparaît comme un outil de force, d’expansion et de succès sur les marchés.
Par rapport aux aires de production viticole, il y a certains antécédents de zonage, résultant de l’étude d’un ensemble de facteurs empiriques et historiques qui ont permis de délimiter les régions dans lesquelles la vitiviniculture argentine s’est développée. Ces régions comprennent une longue bande Nord-Sud, à pente variable, située à l’Ouest du pays, au pied de la Cordillère des Andes, qui jointe à la topographie des vallées, présentent de grandes variations écologiques. Ces caractéristiques ainsi que la diversité de sols, permettent de définir trois régions: Nord­Ouest, Centre-Ouest et Sud, divisées à leur tour en sous-régions.
D’autres études plus restreintes visant à délimiter certaines aires déterminées ont été réalisées: Lujan de Cuyo, Valle de Uco, San Rafael, Maipu de la Province de Mendoza et Valle de Famatina dans la Province de La Rioja. Ces études analysent des facteurs naturels: géologiques et pédologiques, climatiques, des aspects associés au paysage et d’autres facteurs contribuant à caractériser le milieu, par le type de travail agronomique et par le comportement des différentes variétés.
Malgré les antécédents précédents, la notion d’origine est assez récente en Argentine et elle est conçue à partir des engagements pris au niveau international par rapport à la protection des indications géographiques (ADPIC, OMC) pour les vins et les boissons spiritueuses d’origine vitivinicole. C’est ainsi que, en 1999, la Loi N° 25.163 établit un système de reconnaissance, de protection et d’enregistrement des noms géographiques argentins pour la désignation des vins et des boissons spiritueuses d’origine vitivinicole, dont les qualités et les caractéristiques peuvent être attribuées à leur origine géographique.
Cette Loi distingue trois catégories de désignations: l’Indication de Provenance, l’Indication Géographique et l’Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, pour lesquelles on établit les conditions pour pouvoir avoir droit à leur emploi. L’Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura en est l’autorité d’application.
Par rapport au concept d’appellation d’origine dans d’autres pays de l’Amérique du Sud, il y a des antécédents au Chili, au Brésil, en Bolivie, pour lesquels seront présentés les principes généraux.

 By the end of the 20th century, Argentine winemaking industry went through a deep qualitative transformation involving its whole chain of production. A survey on the evolution of vineyard­-planted area, winemaking practices, consumption levels and export figures all attest to such changes. Within that context, the geographical origin of wine appears as an instrument of strength, expansion and success in the markets.
As regards the areas of wine production, there exists some background about zoning, which results from the analysis of a set of empirical and historical aspects that have made it possible to delimit the regions within which Argentine winemaking has been developed. These regions lie on a wide north-south stretch, with variable slope, on the west of the country, at the foot of the Andes Range. Combined with the topography of the valleys, this location provides significant ecological variations. These features, plus the diversity of soils, make it possible to differentiate three main regions: Northwest, Centre-West and South, each one in turn divided into sub­regions.
In addition, more restricted studies have been conducted to define some specific areas: Lujan de Cuyo, Uco Valley, San Rafael and Maipu in the province of Mendoza, and the Famatina Valley in the province of La Rioja. These studies analyze natural factors, geological and pedological, climatic, landscape and still other factors contributing to a characterization of the environment through the determination of agricultural management and the behavior of different stock varieties.
However, despite the previous referential aspects, the notion of origin starts to be consolidated in Argentina as a result of international agreements related to the protection of geographical denominations or indications (ADPIC, WTO) for wines and wine-based spirits. It is thus that in 1999, Act of Congress 25.163 is passed establishing a system of recognition, protection and register of Argentine geographical denominations to identify wines and wine-based spirits whose qualities and characteristics may be attributed to their geographical origin.
This Act distinguishes three categories of appellation: Origin Indication, Geographical Denomination and D.O.C. (controlled denomination of origin), for which the compliance requisites and right of use are laid out. The regulating body is the Argentine Wine Institute.
In relation to the concept of geographical denomination in other South American countries, there are antecedents in Chile, Brazil and Bolivia, whose general regulating principles will be pres
ented here.

DOI:

Publication date: February 16, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2002 

Type: Article

Authors

Virginia Biaiñ de Martínez

Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura
San Martin 430 (5500) MENDOZA, ARGENTINA

Contact the author

Keywords

vitiviniculture, origine, vigne, vin, aire de production, délimitation, sol, climat

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2002

Citation

Related articles…

Grape must quality and mesoclimatic variability in Fruška Gora wine-growing region, Serbia

The Fruška Gora mountain is a traditional wine-growing region in Serbia situated in the Pannonian Basin. Due to such a position, the vicinity of the Danube River and the presence of concave configuration, it is suitable for grape production. This paper provides analyses of spatial variations in meteorological parameters and grape juice quality within Fruška Gora wine region over three consecutive vintages (2018-2020). The examined period can be defined as warm with cool nights during September (AVG 18,9°C; GDD 1918°C; CI 12°CF) and with the presence of mesoclimatic variability. The East part of the study area was somewhat drier and hotter compared to other parts of the region. The analyses of grape must samples (190 in total) of five cultivars (Cabernet-Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc and Grašac (Welschriesling)) commonly grown across the region (19 sites), were performed using Fourier Transform Infrared Technology (FTIR). Among all cultivars, Sauvignon blanc was harvested first in the East area (DOY=246±5, GDD at harvest=1552±74, 22.2±0.7 °Brix), while the latest harvest was recorded for Cabernet-Sauvignon in the West (DOY=283±5, GDD at harvest=1936±187, 23.4±1.0 °Brix ). Both the red and white cultivars had higher acidity and YAN in the grape must if the vines were grown in the North and East compared to South and West areas. According to PCA analysis, Grašac showed the lowest variation in grape must chemical composition. Thus, the results confirm that Grašac is the most stable cultivar in Fruška Gora. All monitored cultivars reached technological fruit ripeness by the end of the growing season. However, it was difficult to reach full ripeness of red cultivars, mostly beacuse of uncoupling of technolocical and phenolic ripeness. Thus, Cabernet-Sauvignon had higher variations in GDD sums at harvest compared to other cultivars, which probably increased variations in grape must quality.

An analytical framework to site-specifically study climate influence on grapevine involving the functional and Bayesian exploration of farm data time series synchronized using an eGDD thermal index

Climate influence on grapevine physiology is prevalent and this influence is only expected to increase with climate change. Although governed by a general determinism, climate influence on grapevine physiology may present variations according to the terroir. In addition, these site-specific differences are likely to be enhanced when climate influence is studied using farm data. Indeed, farm data integrate additional sources of variation such as a varying representativity of the conditions actually experienced in the field. Nevertheless, there is a real challenge in valuing farm data to enable grape growers to understand their own terroir and consequently adapt their practices to the local conditions. In such a context, this article proposes a framework to site-specifically study climate influence on grapevine physiology using farm data. It focuses on improving the analysis of time series of weather data. The analytical framework includes the synchronization of time series using site-specific thermal indices computed with an original method called Extended Growing Degree Days (eGDD). Synchronized time series are then analyzed using a Bayesian functional Linear regression with Sparse Steps functions (BLiSS) in order to detect site-specific periods of strong climate influence on yield development. The article focuses on temperature and rain influence on grape yield development as a case study. It uses data from three commercial vineyards respectively situated in the Bordeaux region (France), California (USA) and Israel. For all vineyards, common periods of climate influence on yield development were found. They corresponded to already known periods, for example around veraison of the year before harvest. However, the periods differed in their precise timing (e.g. before, around or after veraison), duration and correlation direction with yield. Other periods were found for only one or two vineyards and/or were not referred to in literature, for example during the winter before harvest.

Teasing apart terroir: the influence of management style on native yeast communities within Oregon wineries and vineyards

Newer sequencing technologies have allowed for the addition of microbes to the story of terroir. The same environmental factors that influence the phenotypic expression of a crop also shape the composition of the microbial communities found on that crop. For fermented goods, such as wine, that microbial community ultimately influences the organoleptic properties of the final product that is delivered to customers. Recent studies have begun to study the biogeography of wine-associated microbes within different growing regions, finding that communities are distinct across landscapes. Despite this new knowledge, there are still many questions about what factors drive these differences. Our goal was to quantify differences in yeast communities due to management style between seven pairs of conventional and biodynamic vineyards (14 in total) throughout Oregon, USA. We wanted to answer the following questions: 1) are yeast communities distinct between biodynamic vineyards and conventional vineyards? 2) are these differences consistent across a large geographic region? 3) can differences in yeast communities be tied to differences in metabolite profiles of the bottled wine? To collect our data we took soil, bark, leaf, and grape samples from within each vineyard from five different vines of pinot noir. We also collected must and a 10º brix sample from each winery. Using these samples, we performed 18S amplicon sequencing to identify the yeast present. We then used metabolomics to characterize the organoleptic compounds present in the bottled wine from the blocks the year that we sampled. We are actively in the process of analysing our data from this study.

Assessment of the impact of actions in the vineyard and its surrounding environment on biodiversity in Rioja Alavesa (Spain)

Traditional viticulture areas have experienced in the last decades an intensification of field practices, linked to an increased use of fertilisers and phytosanitary products, and to a more intensive mechanization and uniformization of the landscape. This change in management has sometimes led to higher rates of soil erosion andloss of soil structure, fertility decline, groundwater contamination, and to an increased pressure of pests and diseases. Additionally, intensification usually leads to a simplification of landscapes, of particular concern in prestigious wine grape regions where the economical revenue encourages the conversion of land use from natural habitats to high value wine grape production. To revert this trend, it is necessary that growers implement actions that promote biodiversity in their vineyards. The aim of this study is to assess the impact of the implementation of cover crops, vegetational corridors, dry stone walls and vineyard biodiversity hotspots estimated through the study of arthropods. The work has been carried out in four vineyards in Rioja Alavesa belonging to Ostatu winery, where these infrastructures were implemented in 2020. The presence and diversity of arthropods was studied by capturing them at different times in the season and at different distances from the infrastructure using pit-fall traps in the soil and yellow, white and blue chromatic traps at the canopy level. This is a preliminary study in which all adult insects were sorted to the taxonomic level of order and Coleoptera were classified to morphospecies. The results obtained show that there is a relationship between the basic characteristics of the vineyard and the arthropods captured, with a positive effect, although also dependent on the vineyard, of the presence of infrastructure.

δ13C : A still underused indicator in precision viticulture  

The first demonstration of the interest of carbon isotope composition of sugars in grapevine, as an integrated indicator of vineyard water status, dates back to 2000 (Gaudillère et al., 1999; Van Leeuwen et al., 2001). Thanks to the isotopic discrimination of Carbon that takes place during plant photosynthesis, under hydric stress conditions, it is possible to accurately estimate the photosynthetic activity. Ever since, δ13C has been widely applied with success to zonation, terroir studies and vine physiology research, but is still not widely used by viticulturists. This is quite astonishing by considering the impact of global warming on viticulture and the need to improve water management, that would justify a widespread use of δ13C.
The lack of private laboratories proposing the analysis, the cost of the technology, as well as the long analytical delays, have been detrimental to its development. Some laboratories tried to overcome the analytical difficulties of isotopic analysis by using fourier transformed infrared spectroscopy, as a fast and cheap alternative to the official OIV method (IRMS). These claimed FTIR models have never been published or peer reviewed and cannot be considered robust. In this work, thanks to the recent acquisition of IRMS technology, new modern and robust applications of δ13C for viticulture are proposed. This includes the use of the analysis to make parcel separations at harvesting, the possibility to increase the precision of hydric stress cartography and the potential cost reduction when compared with Scholander pressure bomb analysis.