Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 The evolution of the concept of geographical denomination in South America

The evolution of the concept of geographical denomination in South America

Abstract

Vers la fin du XX siècle, la vitiviniculture argentine a subi une profonde transformation qualitative atteignant toute la filière. L’analyse de l’évolution de la superficie des vignobles, l’élaboration des vins, la consommation et les exportations, permet de mettre en évidence ces changements. Dans ce contexte, l’origine apparaît comme un outil de force, d’expansion et de succès sur les marchés.
Par rapport aux aires de production viticole, il y a certains antécédents de zonage, résultant de l’étude d’un ensemble de facteurs empiriques et historiques qui ont permis de délimiter les régions dans lesquelles la vitiviniculture argentine s’est développée. Ces régions comprennent une longue bande Nord-Sud, à pente variable, située à l’Ouest du pays, au pied de la Cordillère des Andes, qui jointe à la topographie des vallées, présentent de grandes variations écologiques. Ces caractéristiques ainsi que la diversité de sols, permettent de définir trois régions: Nord­Ouest, Centre-Ouest et Sud, divisées à leur tour en sous-régions.
D’autres études plus restreintes visant à délimiter certaines aires déterminées ont été réalisées: Lujan de Cuyo, Valle de Uco, San Rafael, Maipu de la Province de Mendoza et Valle de Famatina dans la Province de La Rioja. Ces études analysent des facteurs naturels: géologiques et pédologiques, climatiques, des aspects associés au paysage et d’autres facteurs contribuant à caractériser le milieu, par le type de travail agronomique et par le comportement des différentes variétés.
Malgré les antécédents précédents, la notion d’origine est assez récente en Argentine et elle est conçue à partir des engagements pris au niveau international par rapport à la protection des indications géographiques (ADPIC, OMC) pour les vins et les boissons spiritueuses d’origine vitivinicole. C’est ainsi que, en 1999, la Loi N° 25.163 établit un système de reconnaissance, de protection et d’enregistrement des noms géographiques argentins pour la désignation des vins et des boissons spiritueuses d’origine vitivinicole, dont les qualités et les caractéristiques peuvent être attribuées à leur origine géographique.
Cette Loi distingue trois catégories de désignations: l’Indication de Provenance, l’Indication Géographique et l’Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, pour lesquelles on établit les conditions pour pouvoir avoir droit à leur emploi. L’Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura en est l’autorité d’application.
Par rapport au concept d’appellation d’origine dans d’autres pays de l’Amérique du Sud, il y a des antécédents au Chili, au Brésil, en Bolivie, pour lesquels seront présentés les principes généraux.

 By the end of the 20th century, Argentine winemaking industry went through a deep qualitative transformation involving its whole chain of production. A survey on the evolution of vineyard­-planted area, winemaking practices, consumption levels and export figures all attest to such changes. Within that context, the geographical origin of wine appears as an instrument of strength, expansion and success in the markets.
As regards the areas of wine production, there exists some background about zoning, which results from the analysis of a set of empirical and historical aspects that have made it possible to delimit the regions within which Argentine winemaking has been developed. These regions lie on a wide north-south stretch, with variable slope, on the west of the country, at the foot of the Andes Range. Combined with the topography of the valleys, this location provides significant ecological variations. These features, plus the diversity of soils, make it possible to differentiate three main regions: Northwest, Centre-West and South, each one in turn divided into sub­regions.
In addition, more restricted studies have been conducted to define some specific areas: Lujan de Cuyo, Uco Valley, San Rafael and Maipu in the province of Mendoza, and the Famatina Valley in the province of La Rioja. These studies analyze natural factors, geological and pedological, climatic, landscape and still other factors contributing to a characterization of the environment through the determination of agricultural management and the behavior of different stock varieties.
However, despite the previous referential aspects, the notion of origin starts to be consolidated in Argentina as a result of international agreements related to the protection of geographical denominations or indications (ADPIC, WTO) for wines and wine-based spirits. It is thus that in 1999, Act of Congress 25.163 is passed establishing a system of recognition, protection and register of Argentine geographical denominations to identify wines and wine-based spirits whose qualities and characteristics may be attributed to their geographical origin.
This Act distinguishes three categories of appellation: Origin Indication, Geographical Denomination and D.O.C. (controlled denomination of origin), for which the compliance requisites and right of use are laid out. The regulating body is the Argentine Wine Institute.
In relation to the concept of geographical denomination in other South American countries, there are antecedents in Chile, Brazil and Bolivia, whose general regulating principles will be pres
ented here.

DOI:

Publication date: February 16, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2002 

Type: Article

Authors

Virginia Biaiñ de Martínez

Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura
San Martin 430 (5500) MENDOZA, ARGENTINA

Contact the author

Keywords

vitiviniculture, origine, vigne, vin, aire de production, délimitation, sol, climat

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2002

Citation

Related articles…

Influence of grapevine rootstock/scion combination on rhizosphere and root endophytic microbiomes

Soil is a reservoir of microorganisms playing important roles in biogeochemical cycles and interacting with plants whether in the rhizosphere or in the root endosphere. The composition of the microbial communities thus impacts the plant health. Rhizodeposits (such as sugar, organic and amino acids, secondary metabolites, dead root cells …) are released by the roots and influence the communities of rhizospheric microorganisms, acting as signaling compounds or carbon sources for microbes. The composition of root exudates varies depending on several factors including genotypes. As most of the cultivated grapevines worldwide are grafted plants, the aim of this study was to explore the influence of rootstock and scion genotypes on the microbial communities of the rhizosphere and the root endosphere. The work was conducted in the GreffAdapt plot (55 rootstocks x 5 scions), in which the 275 combinations have been planted into 3 blocks designed according to the soil resistivity. Samples of roots and rhizosphere of 10 scion x rootstock combinations were first collected in May among the blocks 2 and 3. The quantities of bacteria, fungi and archaea have been assessed in the rhizosphere by quantitative PCR, and by cultivable methods for bacteria and fungi. The communities of bacteria, fungi and arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi (AMF) was analyzed by Illumina sequencing of 16S rRNA gene, ITS and 28S rRNA gene, respectively. The level of mycorrhization was also evaluated using black ink coloration of newly formed roots harvested in October. The level of bacteria, fungi and archaea was dependent on rootstock and scion genotypes. A block effect was observed, suggesting that the soil characteristics strongly influenced the microorganisms from the rhizosphere and root endosphere. High-throughput sequencing of the different target genes showed different communities of bacteria, fungi and AMF associated with the scion x rootstock combinations. Finally, all the combinations were naturally mycorrhized. The root mycorrhization intensity was influenced by the rootstock genotype, but not by the scion one. Altogether, these results suggest that both rootstock and scion genotypes influence the rhizosphere and root endophytic microbiomes. It would be interesting to analyze the biochemical composition of the rhizodeposition of these genotypes for a better understanding of the processes involved in the modulation of these microbiomes. Moreover, crossing our data with the plant agronomic characteristics could provide insights into their roles on plant fitness.

Diagnosis of soil quality and evaluation of the impact of viticultural practices on soil biodiversity in a vineyard in southwestern France

Viticulture is facing two major changes – climate change and agroecological transition. In both cases, soil quality is seen as a lever to move towards a more sustainable viticulture. However, soil biological quality is little considered in the implementation of viticultural practices. Gascogn’Innov (2017-2022) is an Operational Group funded by the European Innovation Partnership for Agriculture. As such, it brings together winegrowers from the south-west of France, scientists, advisors and technicians, around a project focused on viticultural soil biological functioning and the design of technical routes more respectful toward soil heritage. To achieve this, the project aims to acquire references on the impact of viticultural practices on soil biology from a dynamic way, and to test a methodology to integrate information provided by the soil bioindicators to manage farming systems. A set of indicators of soil biological quality are evaluated in the project: microorganisms (bacteria and fungi abundance and diversity), fauna (abundance and diversity of nematodes and earthworms), physico-chemical characteristics, soil structure assessment and degradation rate of organic matter. Based on a network of 13 plots that have been subject to an initial diagnosis in 2017, several agronomical practices to restore soil fertility are experimented to redesign the cropping system (for instance plant cover, organic matter inputs, reduction of herbicides, mineral fertilizers). System redesign was made in collaboration by winegrowers and an interdisciplinary group of experts (agronomists, biologists). Several indicators are measured on vine and soil at each vintage to assess vine health and productivity. At the end of the project (2021), a final diagnosis was carried out. Gascogn’Innov allowed to create a regional database on the quality of wine-growing soils, which permitted to evaluate the effect of practices according to soil types. Especially, decreasing the intensity of tillage and increasing the duration and diversity of grass coverage tends to increase the abundance of all the organisms studied. This project confirmed the value of soil biological quality indicators to drive the sustainability of practices, but also highlighted the key-role of expertise, in both agronomy and soil biology, to help winegrowers understand and appropriate their soil quality diagnoses.

Amino nitrogen content in grapes: the impact of crop limitation

As an essential element for grapevine development and yield, nitrogen is also involved in the winemaking process and largely affects wine composition. Grape must amino nitrogen deficiency affects the alcoholic fermentation kinetics and alters the development of wine aroma precursors. It is therefore essential to control and optimize nitrogen use efficiency by the plant to guarantee suitable grape nitrogen composition at harvest. Understanding the impact of environmental conditions and cultural practices on the plant nitrogen metabolism would allow us to better orientate our technical choices with the objective of quality and sustainability (less inputs, higher efficiency). This trial focuses on the impact of crop limitation – that is a common practice in European viticulture – on nitrogen distribution in the plant and particularly on grape nitrogen composition. A wide gradient of crop load was set up in a homogeneous plot of Chasselas (Vitis vinifera) in the experimental vineyard of Agroscope, Switzerland. Dry weight and nitrogen dynamics were monitored in the roots, trunk, canopy and grapes, during two consecutive years, using a 15N-labeling method. Grape amino nitrogen content was assessed in both years, at veraison and at harvest. The close relationship between fruits and roots in the maintenance of plant nitrogen balance was highlighted. Interestingly, grape nitrogen concentration remained unchanged regardless of crop load to the detriment of the growth and nitrogen content of the roots. Meanwhile, the size and the nitrogen concentration of the canopy were not affected. Leaf gas exchange rates were reduced in response to lower yield conditions, reducing carbon and nitrogen assimilation and increasing intrinsic water use efficiency. The must amino nitrogen profiles could be discriminated as a function of crop load. These findings demonstrate the impact of plant balance on grape nitrogen composition and contribute to the improvement of predictive models and sustainable cultural practices in perennial crops.

Combining effect of leaf removal and natural shading on grape ripening under two irrigation strategies in Manto negro (Vitis vinifera L.)

The increasingly frequent heat waves during grape ripening pose challenges for high quality wine grape production. Defoliation is a common practice that can improve the control of diseases in bunches, but also it increases the exposure to sunlight. Grapes exposed to solar radiation reach temperatures over the optimum for berry development and maturation. This makes the development of irrigation and canopy management techniques of great importance to maximize yield and grape quality. A field experiment was carried out during 2021 using Manto negro wine grapes to study the effect of applied irrigation and different light exposure levels on grape quality. Two irrigation treatments were imposed based on the frequency and amount of water doses in a four-block experimental vineyard at Bodega Ribas (Mallorca). Three light exposure treatments were randomly applied in each irrigation plot. The light treatments included exposed clusters from pea size, non-exposed clusters, and shaded clusters after softening. Leaf area index and canopy porosity was estimated every 2 weeks. Midday leaf water potential was measured weekly. Additionally, apparent electrical conductivity was measured between rows to estimate the soil water content variability. Light and temperature sensors were installed at the bunch level to quantify the differences in bunch temperature and light intensity among treatments. The effect of irrigation and cluster light exposure on berry weight, TSS, TA, malic acid, tartaric acid, K+, and pH were analysed at 5 moments along grape ripening. During different heat waves, the natural shading technique decreased the maximum bunch temperature around 10 °C respect to the exposed bunches in both irrigation strategies. The combination of defoliation and shading techniques after softening decreased TSS at harvest and affected most of the quality parameters during the last stages of ripening, showing an interesting technique to delay ripening in warm viticulture areas.

Is wine terroir a valid concept under a changing climate?

The OIV[i] defines terroir as a concept referring to an area in which collective knowledge of the interactions between the physical and biological environment (soil, topography, climate, landscape characteristics and biodiversity features) and vitivinicultural practices develops, providing distinctive wine characteristics. Those are perceptible in the taste of wine, which drives consumer preference and, therefore, wine’s value in the marketplace. Geographical indications (GI) are recognized regulatory constructs formalizing and protecting the nexus between wine taste and the terroir generating it. Despite considering updates, GIs do not consider the nexus as a dynamic one and do not anticipate change, namely of climate. Being climate a fundamental feature of terroir, it strongly impacts wine characteristics, such as taste. According to IPCC[ii], many widespread, rapid and unprecedented changes of climate occurred, some being irreversible over hundreds to thousands of years. Climatic shifts and atmospheric-driven extreme events have been widely reported worldwide. Recent climatic trends are projected to strengthen in upcoming decades, whereas extremes are expected to increase in frequency and intensity, forcing wines away from GI definitions. Geographical shifts of viticultural suitability are projected, often moving into regions and countries different from current ones. Some authors propose adaptation in viticulture, winemaking and product innovation. We show evidence of climate changing wine characteristics in the Douro valley, home of 270-year-old Port GI. We discuss herein resist or adapt stances for when climate changes the nexus between terroir and wine characteristics. Using the MED-GOLD[iii] dashboard, a tool allowing for easy visual navigation of past and future climates, we demonstrate how policymakers can identify future moments, throughout the 21st century under different emission scenarios, when GI specifications will likely need updates (e.g., boundaries, varieties) to reduce climate-change impacts.