Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Tokaj zonation, traditions and future prospects

Tokaj zonation, traditions and future prospects

Abstract

  1. Les traditions
    La superficie actuelle de l’ensemble des vignobles est de 5.293 ha qui est repartie dans 27 communes (données officielles du Conseil National des Communes de montagnes). L’histoire du vignoble remonte aux années 1550. Le premier vin d’aszu a été élaboré en 1650. Les premières lois concernant la production ont été mises en vigueur en 1737. La première classification des vignobles a été effectuée en 1772.
  2. Les conditions écologiques
    Le climat de la région de Tokaj est continental avec une température moyenne de 10,5 oC et une pluviométrie de 550 mm par ans. Le microclimat spécial est conditionné par les coteaux du Sud en forme de V de la montagne de Zemplén. Ces reliefs protègent aussi les vignes contre les vents froids de l’Est. Les facteurs très importants sont encore les rivières aux pieds de la montagne, notamment la Tisza (la Theiss) et la Bodrog, qui assurent une partie de l’humidité pour la pourriture noble causée par le Botrytis cinerea. Les sols de la région sont composés de sols volcaniques et sédimenteux.
  3. Les produits
    A Tokaj on peut caractériser trois types des produits:
    • Les vins de cépage sont vinifiés avec les grappes saines.
    • Le szamorodni (mot d’origine polonaise: “comme il est né”) est obtenu à partir de grappes saines et botrytisées (grains d’aszu) récoltées et vinifiées ensemble. On peut en produire deux type de vin : sec et doux.
    • L’aszu est un vin doux naturel, pour lequel les grains d’aszu sont récoltés séparément. Puis on ajoute le raisin botrytisé ainsi obtenu au vin de base ou au moût, et la vinification se fait ensemble. Les catégories d’aszu sont classées selon la mesure traditionnelle, par les nombres de “puttony” (la hotte) de 3 à 6 et pour la qualité supérieure on utilise encore la catégorie “d’aszu esszencia“. Les catégories sont définies selon la teneur en sucre résiduel.
  4. Les variétés
    Aujourd’hui on cultive quatre cépages dans la région, mais à l’époque on a eu de 20 à 30 variétés différentes, parmi eux, un cépage, le Kôvérszolo (“Grappe grosse”) est repris maintenant pour réévaluation. Les cépages principaux sont le Furmint et le Harslevelu (“Feuille de tilleul”) et en plus le Sarga muskotaly (Muscat de Lunel) et le Zéta (une nouvelle variété) qui sont les seuls cépages autorisés. Ce dernier n’est cultivé que depuis deux décennies, tandis que les autres sont les cépages traditionnels de la région.
  5. La classification
    La classification actuelle des terroirs a été réalisée en 1981. La base de ce cadastrage est une évaluation les facteurs écologiques sur 400 points.
  6. Les développements actuels
    La plupart des domaines vitivinicoles produisent des vins sélectionnés par lieu-dits (terroirs). Les lieux-dits et leurs dénominations sont devenus plus en plus un facteur de marché. Mais en matière de l’appellation il faut encore bien clarifier la législation. Au niveau international actuellement la question la plus difficile est de trouver une solution pour le problème de la production des vins sous le nom de Tokaj en Slovaquie.

  1. History and traditions
    The recent surface of the limited vineyard area of Tokaj wine district is 5.293 ha of 27 communes. The wine history goes back to 1550, the first aszu wine was produced in 1650. The first regulation was implemented in 1737-ben and the vineyard-site classification was carried out in 1772 first time.
  2. Ecologie potential
    In Tokaj district the continental climate is dominant, average temperature is 10,5 °C, the rainfall as much as 550 mm/year for long term. The special microclimate is originated in the Zemplém mountains situated like “V” and its slope facing south and soutlreast protecting vineyards from cool coming from Ukraine, over Carpathian mountains. Basic factors are the rivers flowing at the feet of mountains, called Tisza and Bodrog providing the necessary humidity for Botrytis. Volcanic and sediment soils vary.
  3. Wines
    In Tokaj the wine are also classified, there are three basic ones such as follows:
    a. Varietal wines produced from healthy grapes.
    b. Szamorodni (means “as it was bom ”). Healthy and Botritys infected grapes picked together and processed together for dry or sweet ones.
    c. Aszu. Sweet wines, Botritys infected berries are selected and put onto base wine or must. According to their sugar rate it may be 3-6 puttonyos, or aszu-essencia aged in barrel.
  4. Grape-vine varieties
    Nowadays there are four grape-vine varieties cultivated but there was time listed 20-30 ones including now again tested promising Kovér. Furmint and Hârslevelu are main varieties, Y ellow Muscat and Zéta are complementary ones. The last one registered only in 80s.
  5. Classification
    The recent running vineyard-site classification was set up in 1981. Clustering is based on ecologic investigation of 18 ecological factors resulted in 400 mark system.
  6. Recent developments
    Now the most wineries produce vineyard-site selected wines. These appellations have become important marketing factors. The legal and technical backgrounds need to be further investigations. At the international stage the Slovakian Tokaj issue seems to be the most difficult to achieve agreement.

DOI:

Publication date: February 16, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2002

Type: Article

Authors

Dr. Erno Péter BOTOS (1), András BACSÓ (2)

(1) General Director, Research Institute for Vine and Wine, H-Kecskemét
(2) Manager, Oremus Estate, H-Tolcsva

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2002

Citation

Related articles…

Modeling the suitability of Pinot Noir in Oregon’s Willamette Valley in a changing climate

Air temperature is the key driver of grapevine phenology and a significant environmental factor impacting yield and quality for a winegrape growing region. In this study the optimal downscaled CMIP5 ensemble for computing thegrowing season average temperature (GST) viticulture climate classification index was determined to spatially compute on a decadal basis predictions of the GST climate index and the grapevine sugar ripeness (GSR) model for Pinot Noir throughout the Willamette Valley (WV) American Viticultural Area (AVA). Forecasts for average temperature and a 220 g/L target sugar concentration level were computed using daily Localized Constructed Analogs (LOCA) downscaled CMIP5 historic and Representative Concentration Pathways (RCP) future climate projections of minimum and maximum daily temperature. We explore spatiotemporal trends of the GST climate classification index and Pinot Noir specific applications of the GSR phenology model for the WV AVA. Spatiotemporal computations of the GST climate index and Pinot Noir specific applications of the GSR model enable the opportunity to explore relationships between their computed values with one intent being to provide updated GST ranges that better align with current temperature-based modeling understanding of Pinot Noir grapevine phenology and the viticultural application of LOCA CMIP5 climate projections for the WV AVA. The Pinot Noir specific applications of the GSR model or the GST index with updated bounds indicate that the percent of the WV AVA area suitable for Pinot Noir production is currently at or near its peak value in the upper 80s to lower 90s of this century.

Effect of partial net shading on the temperature and radiation in the grapevine canopy, consequences on the grape quality of cv. Gros Manseng in PDO Pacherenc-du-vic-Bilh

As elsewhere, southwestern France vineyards face more recurrent summer heat waves these last years. Among the possibilities of adaptation to this climate changing parameter, the use of net shading is a technique that allow for limiting canopy exposure to radiations. In this trial, we tested net shading installed on one face of the canopy, on a north-south row-oriented plot of cv. Gros Manseng trained on VSP system in the PDO Pacherenc-du-Vic-Bilh. The purpose was to characterize the effects on the ambient canopy temperatures and radiations during the season and to observe the consequences on the composition of grapes and wines. Two sorts of net were used with two levels of obstruction (50% and 75%) of the photosynthesis active radiation (PAR). They have been installed on the west side of the canopy and compared to a netless control. Temperature and PAR sensors registered hourly data during the season. On specific summer day (hot and sunny) manual measurements took also place on bunches (temperature) and in different spots of the canopy (PAR). The results showed that, on clear days, the radiation is lowered by the shade nets respecting the supplier criteria. The effects on the ambient canopy temperature were inconstant on this plot when we observed the data from the global period of shading between fruit set and harvest. However, during hot days (>30°C), the temperature in the canopy was reduced during afternoon and the temperature of the bunch surface was reduced as well comparing to the control. A decrease of the maturity parameters of the berries, sugar and acidity, was also observed. Concerning the wine aromatic potential, no differences clearly appeared.

VINIoT – Precision viticulture service

The project VINIoT pursues the creation of a new technological vineyard monitoring service, which will allow companies in the wine sector in the SUDOE space to monitor plantations in real time and remotely at various levels of precision. The system is based on spectral images and an IoT architecture that allows assessing parameters of interest viticulture and the collection of data at a precise scale (level of grape, plant, plot or vineyard) will be designed. In France, three subjects were specifically developed: evaluation of maturity, of water stress, and detection of flavescence dorée. For the evaluation of maturity, it has been decided first to work at the berry scale in the laboratory, then at the bunch scale and finally in the vineyard. The acquisition of the spectral hyperstal image as well as the reference analyzes to measure the maturity, were carried out in the laboratory after harvesting the berries in a maturity monitoring context. This work focuses on a case study to predict sugar content of three different grape varieties: Syrah, Fer Servadou and Mauzac. A robust method called Roboost-PLSR, developed in the framework of this work (Courand et al., 2022), to improve prediction model performance was applied on spectra after the acquirement of hyperspectral images. Regarding the evaluation of water stress, to work with a significant variability in terms of water status, it has been worked first with potted plants under 2 different water regimes. The facilities have allowed the supervision of irrigation and micro-climatic conditions. The regression models on agronomic variables (stomatal conductance, water potential, …) are studied. To detect flavescence dorée, the experimental plan has consisted of work at leaf scale in the laboratory first, and then in the field. To detect the disease from hyper-spectral imaging, a combination of multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares (MCR-ALS) and factorial discriminant analysis (FDA) was proposed. This strategy proved the potential towards the discrimination of healthy and infected leaves by flavescence dorée based on the use of hyperspectral images (Mas Garcia et al., 2021).

Rapid damage assessment and grapevine recovery after fire

There is increasing scientific consensus that climate changeis the underlying cause of the prolonged dry and hot conditions that have increased the risk of extreme fire weather in many countries around the world. In December 2019, a bushfire event occurred in the Adelaide Hills, South Australia where 25,000 hectares were burnt and in vineyards and surrounding areas various degrees of scorching and infrastructure damage occurred. The ability to coordinate and plan recovery after a fire event relies on robust and timely data. The current practice for measuring the scale and distribution of fire damage is to walk or drive the vineyard and score individual vines based on visual observation. The process is time consuming, subjective, or semi-quantitative at best. After the December 2019 fires, it took many months to access properties and estimate the area of vineyard damaged. This study compares the rapid assessment and mapping of fire damage using high-resolution satellite imagery with more traditional ground based measures. Satellite imagery tracking vineyard recovery in the season following the bushfire is being correlated to field assessments of vineyard productivity such as canopy health and development, fertility and carbohydrate storage. Canopy health in the seasons following the fires correlated to the severity of the initial fire damage. Severely damaged vines had reduced canopy growth, were infertile or had very low fertility as well as lower carbohydrate levels in buds and canes during dormancy, which reduced productivity in the seasons following the bushfire event. In contrast, vines that received minor damage were able to recover within 1-2 years. Tools that rapidly and affordably capture the extent and severity of damage over large vineyard area will allow producers, government and industry bodies to manage decisions in relation to fire recovery planning, coordination and delivery, improving the efficiency and effectiveness of their response.

Exploring resilience and competitiveness of wine estates in Languedoc-Roussillon in the recent past: a multi-level perspective

The Languedoc-Roussillon wineries are facing a decline in wine yields particularly PGI yields due to many factors. Climate change is just ones, but is expected to increase in the future. There is also structurally a large heterogeneity of yield profiles among terroirs, varieties and strategies. This work investigates the link between yield, competitiveness and resilience to explore how resilient winegrowers have been in the recent past. To this end two approaches have been combined; (i) an accountancy database analysis at estate scale and (ii) municipality level competitiveness analysis. A new resilience indicator that characterizes the capacity of an estate to absorb yield variation is also defined. The FADN database between 2000 and 2018 of ex-Languedoc-Roussillon (France) and other data are used to analyse the current situation and the past evolution of competitiveness and resilience by type of estate (type of farm: PGI and/or PDO & type of commercialization: bulk and/or bottles). The net margin, which defines competitiveness, is not correlated to yield for all types but depends on the type of commercialization and the level of specialisation. The resilience indicator shows that the net margin of estates specialized in PGI is particularly sensitive to yield declines. We also show that price evolutions seem to compensate the effect of yield losses for the majority of types. Municipality scale analysis shows the links between local pedoclimate, yield, commercialization strategies and price. Overlapping a PDO with a PGI does not always increase a municipality’s PGI competitiveness. It is difficult to make links between causes and effects due to the complexity of the wine production system. Production diversification may be a solution. Resorting to the two level of analysis helps resolving the data gap that is necessary to explore the links between yield and economic performance of the wine estates in the long term.