Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Tokaj zonation, traditions and future prospects

Tokaj zonation, traditions and future prospects

Abstract

  1. Les traditions
    La superficie actuelle de l’ensemble des vignobles est de 5.293 ha qui est repartie dans 27 communes (données officielles du Conseil National des Communes de montagnes). L’histoire du vignoble remonte aux années 1550. Le premier vin d’aszu a été élaboré en 1650. Les premières lois concernant la production ont été mises en vigueur en 1737. La première classification des vignobles a été effectuée en 1772.
  2. Les conditions écologiques
    Le climat de la région de Tokaj est continental avec une température moyenne de 10,5 oC et une pluviométrie de 550 mm par ans. Le microclimat spécial est conditionné par les coteaux du Sud en forme de V de la montagne de Zemplén. Ces reliefs protègent aussi les vignes contre les vents froids de l’Est. Les facteurs très importants sont encore les rivières aux pieds de la montagne, notamment la Tisza (la Theiss) et la Bodrog, qui assurent une partie de l’humidité pour la pourriture noble causée par le Botrytis cinerea. Les sols de la région sont composés de sols volcaniques et sédimenteux.
  3. Les produits
    A Tokaj on peut caractériser trois types des produits:
    • Les vins de cépage sont vinifiés avec les grappes saines.
    • Le szamorodni (mot d’origine polonaise: “comme il est né”) est obtenu à partir de grappes saines et botrytisées (grains d’aszu) récoltées et vinifiées ensemble. On peut en produire deux type de vin : sec et doux.
    • L’aszu est un vin doux naturel, pour lequel les grains d’aszu sont récoltés séparément. Puis on ajoute le raisin botrytisé ainsi obtenu au vin de base ou au moût, et la vinification se fait ensemble. Les catégories d’aszu sont classées selon la mesure traditionnelle, par les nombres de “puttony” (la hotte) de 3 à 6 et pour la qualité supérieure on utilise encore la catégorie “d’aszu esszencia“. Les catégories sont définies selon la teneur en sucre résiduel.
  4. Les variétés
    Aujourd’hui on cultive quatre cépages dans la région, mais à l’époque on a eu de 20 à 30 variétés différentes, parmi eux, un cépage, le Kôvérszolo (“Grappe grosse”) est repris maintenant pour réévaluation. Les cépages principaux sont le Furmint et le Harslevelu (“Feuille de tilleul”) et en plus le Sarga muskotaly (Muscat de Lunel) et le Zéta (une nouvelle variété) qui sont les seuls cépages autorisés. Ce dernier n’est cultivé que depuis deux décennies, tandis que les autres sont les cépages traditionnels de la région.
  5. La classification
    La classification actuelle des terroirs a été réalisée en 1981. La base de ce cadastrage est une évaluation les facteurs écologiques sur 400 points.
  6. Les développements actuels
    La plupart des domaines vitivinicoles produisent des vins sélectionnés par lieu-dits (terroirs). Les lieux-dits et leurs dénominations sont devenus plus en plus un facteur de marché. Mais en matière de l’appellation il faut encore bien clarifier la législation. Au niveau international actuellement la question la plus difficile est de trouver une solution pour le problème de la production des vins sous le nom de Tokaj en Slovaquie.

  1. History and traditions
    The recent surface of the limited vineyard area of Tokaj wine district is 5.293 ha of 27 communes. The wine history goes back to 1550, the first aszu wine was produced in 1650. The first regulation was implemented in 1737-ben and the vineyard-site classification was carried out in 1772 first time.
  2. Ecologie potential
    In Tokaj district the continental climate is dominant, average temperature is 10,5 °C, the rainfall as much as 550 mm/year for long term. The special microclimate is originated in the Zemplém mountains situated like “V” and its slope facing south and soutlreast protecting vineyards from cool coming from Ukraine, over Carpathian mountains. Basic factors are the rivers flowing at the feet of mountains, called Tisza and Bodrog providing the necessary humidity for Botrytis. Volcanic and sediment soils vary.
  3. Wines
    In Tokaj the wine are also classified, there are three basic ones such as follows:
    a. Varietal wines produced from healthy grapes.
    b. Szamorodni (means “as it was bom ”). Healthy and Botritys infected grapes picked together and processed together for dry or sweet ones.
    c. Aszu. Sweet wines, Botritys infected berries are selected and put onto base wine or must. According to their sugar rate it may be 3-6 puttonyos, or aszu-essencia aged in barrel.
  4. Grape-vine varieties
    Nowadays there are four grape-vine varieties cultivated but there was time listed 20-30 ones including now again tested promising Kovér. Furmint and Hârslevelu are main varieties, Y ellow Muscat and Zéta are complementary ones. The last one registered only in 80s.
  5. Classification
    The recent running vineyard-site classification was set up in 1981. Clustering is based on ecologic investigation of 18 ecological factors resulted in 400 mark system.
  6. Recent developments
    Now the most wineries produce vineyard-site selected wines. These appellations have become important marketing factors. The legal and technical backgrounds need to be further investigations. At the international stage the Slovakian Tokaj issue seems to be the most difficult to achieve agreement.

DOI:

Publication date: February 16, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2002

Type: Article

Authors

Dr. Erno Péter BOTOS (1), András BACSÓ (2)

(1) General Director, Research Institute for Vine and Wine, H-Kecskemét
(2) Manager, Oremus Estate, H-Tolcsva

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2002

Citation

Related articles…

Effect of partial net shading on the temperature and radiation in the grapevine canopy, consequences on the grape quality of cv. Gros Manseng in PDO Pacherenc-du-vic-Bilh

As elsewhere, southwestern France vineyards face more recurrent summer heat waves these last years. Among the possibilities of adaptation to this climate changing parameter, the use of net shading is a technique that allow for limiting canopy exposure to radiations. In this trial, we tested net shading installed on one face of the canopy, on a north-south row-oriented plot of cv. Gros Manseng trained on VSP system in the PDO Pacherenc-du-Vic-Bilh. The purpose was to characterize the effects on the ambient canopy temperatures and radiations during the season and to observe the consequences on the composition of grapes and wines. Two sorts of net were used with two levels of obstruction (50% and 75%) of the photosynthesis active radiation (PAR). They have been installed on the west side of the canopy and compared to a netless control. Temperature and PAR sensors registered hourly data during the season. On specific summer day (hot and sunny) manual measurements took also place on bunches (temperature) and in different spots of the canopy (PAR). The results showed that, on clear days, the radiation is lowered by the shade nets respecting the supplier criteria. The effects on the ambient canopy temperature were inconstant on this plot when we observed the data from the global period of shading between fruit set and harvest. However, during hot days (>30°C), the temperature in the canopy was reduced during afternoon and the temperature of the bunch surface was reduced as well comparing to the control. A decrease of the maturity parameters of the berries, sugar and acidity, was also observed. Concerning the wine aromatic potential, no differences clearly appeared.

Effects of graft quality on growth and grapevine-water relations

Climate change is challenging viticulture worldwide compromising its sustainability due to warmer temperatures and the increased frequency of extreme events. Grafting Vitis vinifera L.

Low-cost sensors as a support tool to monitor soil-plant heat exchanges in a Mediterranean vineyard

Mediterranean viticulture is increasingly exposed to more frequent extreme conditions such as heat waves. These extreme events co-occur with low soil water content, high air vapor pressure deficit and high solar radiant energy fluxes and result in leaf and berry sunburn, lower yield, and berry quality, which is a major constraint for the sustainability of the sector. Grape growers must find ways to proper and effectively manage heat waves and extreme canopy and berry temperatures. Irrigation to keep soil moisture levels and enable adequate plant turgor, and convective and evaporative cooling emerged as a key tool to overcome this major challenge. The effects of irrigation on soil and plant water status are easily quantifiable but the impact of irrigation on soil and canopy temperature and on heat convection from soil to cluster zone remain less characterized. Therefore, a more detailed quantification of vineyard heat fluxes is highly relevant to better understand and implement strategies to limit the effects of extreme weather events on grapevine leaf and berry physiology and vineyards performance. Low-cost sensor technologies emerge as an opportunity to improve monitoring and support decision making in viticulture. However, validation of low-cost sensors is mandatory for practical applicability. A two-year study was carried in a vineyard in Alentejo, south of Portugal, using low-cost thermal cameras (FLIR One, 80×60 pixels and FLIR C5, 160×120 pixels, 8-14 µm, FLIR systems, USA) and pocket thermohygrometers (Extech RHT30, EXTECH instruments, USA) to monitor grapevine and soil temperatures. Preliminary results show that low-cost cameras can detect severe water stress and support the evaluation of vertical canopy temperature variability, providing information on soil surface temperature. All these thermal parameters can be relevant for soil and crop management and be used in decision support systems.

Ecophysiological performance of Vitis rootstocks under water stress

The use of rootstocks tolerant to soil water deficit is an interesting strategy to cope with limited water availability. Currently, several nurseries are breeding new genotypes, but the physiological basis of its responses under water stress are largely unknown. To this end, an ecophysiological assessment of the conventional 110-Richter (110R) and SO4, and the new M1 and M4 rootstocks was carried out in potted ungrafted plants. During one season, these Vitis genotypes were grown under greenhouse conditions and subjected to two water regimes, well-watered and water deficit. Water potentials of plants under water deficit down to < -1.4 MPa, and net photosynthesis (AN) <5 μmol m-2 s-1 did not cause leaf oxidative stress damage compared to well-watered conditions in any of the genotypes. The antioxidant capacity was sufficient to neutralize the mild oxidative stress suffered. Under both treatments, gravimetric differences in daily water use were observed among genotypes, leading to differences in the biomass of root, shoot and leaf. Under well-watered conditions, SO4 and 110R were the most vigorous and M1 and M4 the least. However, under water stress, SO4 exhibited the greatest reduction in biomass while M4 showed the lowest. Remarkably, under these conditions, SO4 reached the least negative stem water potential (Ψstem), while M1 reduced stomatal conductance (gs) and AN the most. In addition, SO4 and M1 genotypes also showed the highest and lowest hydraulic conductance values, respectively. Our results suggest that there are differences in water use regulation among genotypes, not only attributed to differences in stomatal regulation or intrinsic water use efficiency at the leaf level. Therefore, because no differences in canopy-to-root ratio were achieved, it is hypothesized that xylem vessel anatomical differences may be driving the reported differences among rootstocks performance. Results demonstrate that each Vitis rootstock differs in its ecophysiological responses under water stress.

Terroir traceability in grapes, musts and wine: results of research on Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc grape varieties in northern Italy

In the study of terroir, a separate analysis of its many component factors can be of great help in accurately identifying a vineyard’s natural elements that impact wine quality and typicity. This research used a dedicated pluri-disciplinary approach to investigate the ecological characteristics, including geology and geographical features, of 14 vineyards that produce Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc cultivars in the alpine Alto Adige DOC wine region. Both the geopedological method using Vineyards Geological Identity (VGI) and the new Solar Radiaton Identity (SRI) topoclimatic classification method were used to provide analytical measurements and qualitative/quantitative characterisations. In addition, wide-ranging targeted and untargeted oenological and chemical analyses were carried out on grapes, musts and wines to correlate the soils’ geomineral and physical conditions with the biochemical properties of their fruits and wines. The research identified strong correlations between vineyard geo-identity and wine biofingerprint, confirming a mineral traceability of strontium rubidium ratio and some minerals distinctive to the local geology, such as K, Ca, Ag, Ba and Mn.  The study also discovered that particular geomineral and physical soil conditions of the studied vineyards are related to the different amount of amino acids, primary varietal aromas and polyphenols found in grapes, musts and wines. The research confirmed that winemaking technologies support oenological quality, although in some cases, human practices can overpower certain characteristic elements in wine, erasing the typical imprint left by the vineyards’ natural terroir, which becomes less traceable. Terroir abiotic ecological factors and vineyard identity can be classified in detail using the new VGI and SRI analysis methods to discover interrelationships between geo-pedological and topoclimatic conditions that impact wine quality. These methods are also helpful in identifying which ecological elements are exclusive to a particular vineyard or wine sub-region.