Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Approche méthodologique concernant une caractérisation sensorielle de vins rouges de l’Anjou

Approche méthodologique concernant une caractérisation sensorielle de vins rouges de l’Anjou

Abstract

Face à une concurrence de plus en plus rude entre pays producteurs, le vignoble de l’Anjou, déjà riche par sa diversité, souhaite renforcer sa logique de vins d’ A.O.C., notamment au travers de ses vins rouges. Le but a atteindre est d’affiner leur identité en produisant des vins typiques ayant une expression originale difficilement imitable.
Les travaux ont concerné deux types d’AOC productrices de vins rouges: l’«Anjou» et l’«Anjou villages», issus des cépages Cabernet franc et/ou Cabernet-Sauvignon.
En vue de renforcer la typicité de chaque appellation, l’analyse sensorielle a été utilisée dans le cadre de cette étude pour tenter de définir les caractéristiques particulières des vins des deux appellations.
La démarche utilisée s’est organisée en quatre étapes principales:
– Etablissement de la fiche de dégustation
– Entraînement d’un jury
– Dégustation descriptive finale
– Traitement statistique
Elle a nécessité, la mise en place d’un jury de dégustateurs qui s’est réuni 15 fois, afin d’élaborer et de s’entraîner à l’utilisation d’un questionnaire adéquat en se basant sur un échantillonnage de 10 vins du millésime 1996, de chacune des appellations.
Au terme de la première génération de vocabulaire, 379 mots ont été évoqués par l’ensemble des juges. Le nombre élevé de termes a progressivement été réduit. Après de longues séances de notation et de discussion, une liste de 16 termes a finalement été retenue.
Un profil sensoriel de chacune des appellations a été réalisé. Ainsi, il est possible d’affirmer, pour cette gamme de vins du millésime 1996, que ce jury a distingué nettement les «Anjou villages» des «Anjou». Les «Anjou villages» se caractérisent par une «texture» plus astringente et plus persistante. L’impression de plénitude en bouche, marquée par le volume, ressort tout comme les tanins enrobés, malgré une texture plus astringente, qui donnent une impression de gras et de velouté.
La démarche a été étendue, au niveau des commissions d’agrément de l’INAO, lors du millésime 1998. Ainsi, il a été réalisé un profil sensoriel moyen pour chacune des appellations revendiquées, ce qui situe chacun des vins présentés par rapport aux caractéristiques sensorielles de l’une ou l’autre des appellations.
Cette approche met en évidence, que l’AOC initiale ne représente pas quelque chose d’homogène. Il ne faut alors surtout pas traiter la diversité constatée pour tenter de la réduire, mais plutôt l’organiser et la qualifier, en essayant d’aboutir à la définition de la typicité de chaque produit ainsi distingué. L’emboîtement des appellations montre bien cette manière de traiter la diversité, ce qui correspond d’ailleurs aux stratégies des vignerons de bien démarquer leurs produits.
Ainsi, la méthode sensorielle développée, en s’appuyant sur un jury, de vignerons, initié, de grande taille et utilisant une fiche descriptive de dégustation, permet de juger, avec pertinence, de la typicité des «Anjou» et «Anjou villages» au moment des commissions d’agrément mises en place par l’INAO.

DOI:

Publication date: February 24, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2000

Type: Article

Authors

Christian Asselin*, Sophie Milet**, Marie-Hélène Bouvet*, Pascal Cellier***

*INRA Unité de Recherches sur la Vigne et le Vin, Centre d’Angers, BP 57, 42 rue Georges Morel, 49071 Beaucouzé
**Maîtrise en Sciences et Techniques « Le goût et son environnement» Université 37000 Tours
***Institut National des Appellations d’Origine, La Godeline, 73 rue Plantagenêt, 49000 Angers

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2000

Citation

Related articles…

Copper contamination in vineyard soils of Bordeaux: spatial risk assessment for the replanting of vines and crops

Copper (Cu) is widely and historically used in viticulture as a fungicide against mildew. Cu has a strong affinity for soil organic matter and accumulates in topsoil horizons. Thus, Cu may negatively affect soil organisms and plants, consequently reducing soil fertility and productivity. The Bordeaux vineyards have the largest vineyard surfaces (26%) within French controlled appellation and a great proportion of French wine production (around 5 million hl per year). Considering the local context of vineyard surfaces decreasing (vine uprooting) and possible new crop plantation, the issue of Cu potential toxicity rises. Therefore, the aims of this work are firstly to evaluate the Cu contamination in vineyard soils of Bordeaux, secondly to produce a risk assessment map for new vine or crop plantation. We used soil analyses from several local studies to build a database with 4496 soil horizon samples. The database was enhanced by means of pedotransfer functions in order to estimate the bioaccessible (EDTA-extractable) Cu in soils of samples without measurements. From this database, 1797 georeferenced samples with CuEDTA concentrations in the topsoil (0-50 cm depth) were used for kriging interpolation in order to produce the spatial distribution map of CuEDTA in vineyard soils. Then, the spatial distribution of Cu was crossed with vine uprooting surfaces and municipality boundaries. CuEDTAconcentrations ranged from 0.52 to 459 mg/kg and showed clear anomalies. Our results from spatial analysis showed that almost 50% of vineyard soil surfaces have CuEDTA concentrations higher than 30 mg/kg (moderate risk for new plantation) and 20% with concentrations higher than 50 mg/kg (high risk for new plantation). A decision-support map based on municipalities was realised to provide a simple tool to stakeholders concerned by land use management.

Simulating climate change impact on viticultural systems in historical and emergent vineyards

Global climate change affects regional climates and hold implications for wine growing regions worldwide. Although winegrowers are constantly adapting to internal and external factors, it seems relevant to develop tools, which will allow them to better define actual and future agro-climatic potentials. Within this context, we develop a modelling approach, able to simulate the impact of environmental conditions and constraints on vine behaviour and to highlight potential adaptation strategies according to different climate change scenarios. Our modeling approach, named SEVE (Simulating Environmental impacts on Viticultural Ecosystems), provides a generic modeling framework for simulating grapevine growth and berry ripening under different conditions and constraints (slope, aspect, soil type, climate variability…) as well as production strategies and adaptation rules according to climate change scenarios. Each activity is represented by an autonomous agent able to react and adapt its reaction to the variability of environmental constraints. Using this model, we have recently analyzed the evolution of vineyards’ exposure to climatic risks (frost, pathogen risk, heat wave) and the adaptation strategies potentially implemented by the winegrowers. This approach, implemented for two climate change scenarios, has been initiated in France on traditional (Loire Valley) and emerging (Brittany) vineyards. The objective is to identify the time horizons of adaptations and new opportunities in these two regions. Carried out in collaboration with wine growers, this approach aims to better understand the variability of climate change impacts at local scale in the medium and long term.

Grapevine sugar concentration model in the Douro Superior, Portugal

Increasingly warm and dry climate conditions are challenging the viticulture and winemaking sector. Digital technologies and crop modelling bear the promise to provide practical answers to those challenges. As viticultural activities strongly depend on harvest date, its early prediction is particularly important, since the success of winemaking practices largely depends upon this key event, which should be based on an accurate and advanced plan of the annual cycle. Herein, we demonstrate the creation of modelling tools to assess grape ripeness, through sugar concentration monitoring. The study area, the Portuguese Côa valley wine region, represents an important terroir in the “Douro Superior” subregion. Two varieties (cv. Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca) grown in five locations across the Côa Region were considered. Sugar accumulation in grapes, with concentrations between 170 and 230 g l-1, was used from 2014 to 2020 as an indicator of technological maturity conditioned by meteorological factors. The climatic time series were retrieved from the EU Copernicus Service, while sugar data were collected by a non-profit organization, ADVID, and by Sogrape, a leading wine company. The software for calibrating and validating this model framework was the Phenology Modeling Platform (PMP), version 5.5, using Sigmoid and growing degree-day (GDD) models for predictions. The performance was assessed through two metrics: Roots Mean Square Error (RMSE) and efficiency coefficient (EFF), while validation was undertaken using leave-one-out cross-validation. Our findings demonstrate that sugar content is mainly dependent on temperature and air humidity. The models achieved a performance of 0.65

Grapevine yield-gap: identification of environmental limitations by soil and climate zoning in Languedoc-Roussillon region (south of France)

Grapevine yield has been historically overlooked, assuming a strong trade-off between grape yield and wine quality. At present, menaced by climate change, many vineyards in Southern France are far from the quality label threshold, becoming grapevine yield-gaps a major subject of concern. Although yield-gaps are well studied in arable crops, we know very little about grapevine yield-gaps. In the present study, we analysed the environmental component of grapevine yield-gaps linked to climate and soil resources in the Languedoc Roussillon. We used SAFRAN data and IGP Pays d’Oc wine yields from 2010 to 2018. We selected climate and soil indicators proving to have a significant effect on average wine yield-gaps at the municipality scale. The most significant factors of grapevine yield were the Soil Available Water Capacity; followed by the Huglin Index and the Climatic Dryness Index. The Days of Frost; the Soil pH; and the Very Hot Days were also significant. Then, we clustered geographical zones presenting similar indicators, facilitating the identification of resources yield-gaps. We discussed the number of zones with the experts of IGP Pays d’Oc label, obtaining 7 zones with similar limitations for grapevine yield. Finally, we analysed the main resources causing yield-gaps and the grapevine varieties planted on each zone. Mapping grapevine resource yield-gaps are the first stage for understanding grapevine yield-gaps at the regional scale.

Comparison of imputation methods in long and varied phenological series. Application to the Conegliano dataset, including observations from 1964 over 400 grape varieties

A large varietal collection including over 1700 varieties was maintained in Conegliano, ITA, since the 1950s. Phenological data on a subset of 400 grape varieties including wine grapes, table grapes, and raisins were acquired at bud break, flowering, veraison, and ripening since 1964. Despite the efforts in maintaining and acquiring data over such an extensive collection, the data set has varying degrees of missing cases depending on the variety and the year. This is ubiquitous in phenology datasets with significant size and length. In this work, we evaluated four state-of-the-art methods to estimate missing values in this phenological series: k-Nearest Neighbour (kNN), Multivariate Imputation by Chained Equations (mice), MissForest, and Bidirectional Recurrent Imputation for Time Series (BRITS). For each phenological stage, we evaluated the performance of the methods in two ways. 1) On the full dataset, we randomly hold-out 10% of the true values for use as a test set and repeated the process 1000 times (Monte Carlo cross-validation). 2) On a reduced and almost complete subset of varieties, we varied the percentage of missing values from 10% to 70% by random deletion. In all cases, we evaluated the performance on the original values using normalized root mean squared error. For the full dataset we also obtained performance statistics by variety and by year. MissForest provided average errors of 17% (3 days) at budbreak, 14% (4 days) at flowering, 14.5% (7 days) at veraison, and 17% (3 days) at maturity. We completed the imputations of the Conegliano dataset, one of the world’s most extensive and varied phenological time series and a steppingstone for future climate change studies in grapes. The dataset is now ready for further analysis, and a rigorous evaluation of imputation errors is included.