Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Approche méthodologique concernant une caractérisation sensorielle de vins rouges de l’Anjou

Approche méthodologique concernant une caractérisation sensorielle de vins rouges de l’Anjou

Abstract

Face à une concurrence de plus en plus rude entre pays producteurs, le vignoble de l’Anjou, déjà riche par sa diversité, souhaite renforcer sa logique de vins d’ A.O.C., notamment au travers de ses vins rouges. Le but a atteindre est d’affiner leur identité en produisant des vins typiques ayant une expression originale difficilement imitable.
Les travaux ont concerné deux types d’AOC productrices de vins rouges: l’«Anjou» et l’«Anjou villages», issus des cépages Cabernet franc et/ou Cabernet-Sauvignon.
En vue de renforcer la typicité de chaque appellation, l’analyse sensorielle a été utilisée dans le cadre de cette étude pour tenter de définir les caractéristiques particulières des vins des deux appellations.
La démarche utilisée s’est organisée en quatre étapes principales:
– Etablissement de la fiche de dégustation
– Entraînement d’un jury
– Dégustation descriptive finale
– Traitement statistique
Elle a nécessité, la mise en place d’un jury de dégustateurs qui s’est réuni 15 fois, afin d’élaborer et de s’entraîner à l’utilisation d’un questionnaire adéquat en se basant sur un échantillonnage de 10 vins du millésime 1996, de chacune des appellations.
Au terme de la première génération de vocabulaire, 379 mots ont été évoqués par l’ensemble des juges. Le nombre élevé de termes a progressivement été réduit. Après de longues séances de notation et de discussion, une liste de 16 termes a finalement été retenue.
Un profil sensoriel de chacune des appellations a été réalisé. Ainsi, il est possible d’affirmer, pour cette gamme de vins du millésime 1996, que ce jury a distingué nettement les «Anjou villages» des «Anjou». Les «Anjou villages» se caractérisent par une «texture» plus astringente et plus persistante. L’impression de plénitude en bouche, marquée par le volume, ressort tout comme les tanins enrobés, malgré une texture plus astringente, qui donnent une impression de gras et de velouté.
La démarche a été étendue, au niveau des commissions d’agrément de l’INAO, lors du millésime 1998. Ainsi, il a été réalisé un profil sensoriel moyen pour chacune des appellations revendiquées, ce qui situe chacun des vins présentés par rapport aux caractéristiques sensorielles de l’une ou l’autre des appellations.
Cette approche met en évidence, que l’AOC initiale ne représente pas quelque chose d’homogène. Il ne faut alors surtout pas traiter la diversité constatée pour tenter de la réduire, mais plutôt l’organiser et la qualifier, en essayant d’aboutir à la définition de la typicité de chaque produit ainsi distingué. L’emboîtement des appellations montre bien cette manière de traiter la diversité, ce qui correspond d’ailleurs aux stratégies des vignerons de bien démarquer leurs produits.
Ainsi, la méthode sensorielle développée, en s’appuyant sur un jury, de vignerons, initié, de grande taille et utilisant une fiche descriptive de dégustation, permet de juger, avec pertinence, de la typicité des «Anjou» et «Anjou villages» au moment des commissions d’agrément mises en place par l’INAO.

DOI:

Publication date: February 24, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2000

Type: Article

Authors

Christian Asselin*, Sophie Milet**, Marie-Hélène Bouvet*, Pascal Cellier***

*INRA Unité de Recherches sur la Vigne et le Vin, Centre d’Angers, BP 57, 42 rue Georges Morel, 49071 Beaucouzé
**Maîtrise en Sciences et Techniques « Le goût et son environnement» Université 37000 Tours
***Institut National des Appellations d’Origine, La Godeline, 73 rue Plantagenêt, 49000 Angers

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2000

Citation

Related articles…

Frost risk projections in a changing climate are highly sensitive in time and space to frost modelling approaches

Late spring frost is a major challenge for various winegrowing regions across the world, its occurrence often leading to important yield losses and/or plant failure. Despite a significant increase in minimum temperatures worldwide, the spatial and temporal evolution of spring frost risk under a warmer climate remains largely uncertain. Recent projections of spring frost risk for viticulture in Europe throughout the 21st century show that its evolution strongly depends on the model approach used to simulate budburst. Furthermore, the frost damage modelling methods used in these projections are usually not assessed through comparison to field observations and/or frost damage reports.
The present study aims at comparing frost risk projections simulated using six spring frost models based on two approaches: a) models considering a fixed damage threshold after the predicted budburst date (e.g BRIN, Smoothed-Utah, Growing Degree Days, Fenovitis) and b) models considering a dynamic frost sensitivity threshold based on the predicted grapevine winter/spring dehardening process (e.g. Ferguson model). The capability of each model to simulate an actual frost event for the Vitis vinifera cv. Chadonnay B was previously assessed by comparing simulated cold thermal stress to reports of events with frost damage in Chablis, the northernmost winegrowing region of Burgundy. Models exhibited scores of κ > 0.65 when reproducing the frost/non-frost damage years and an accuracy ranging from 0.82 to 0.90.
Spring frost risk projections throughout the 21st century were performed for all winegrowing subregions of Bourgogne-Franche-Comté under two CMIP5 concentration pathways (4.5 and 8.5) using statistically downscaled 8×8 km daily air temperature and humidity of 13 climate models. Contrasting results with region-specific spring frost risk trends were observed. Three out of five models show a decrease in the frequency of frost years across the whole study area while the other two show an increase that is more or less pronounced depending on winegrowing subregion. Our findings indicate that the lack of accuracy in grapevine budburst and dehardening models makes climate projections of spring frost risk highly uncertain for grapevine cultivation regions.

Aromatic maturity is a cornerstone of terroir expression in red wine

Harvesting grapes at adequate maturity is key to the production of high-quality red wines. Enologists and wine makers define several types of maturity, including technical maturity, phenolic maturity and aromatic maturity. Technical maturity and phenolic maturity are relatively well documented in the scientific literature, while articles on aromatic maturity are scarcer. This is surprising, because aromatic maturity is, without a doubt, the most important of the three in determining wine quality and typicity (including terroir expression). Optimal terroir expression can be obtained when the different types of maturity are reached at the same time, or within a short time frame. This is more likely to occur when the ripening takes place under mild temperatures, neither too cool, nor too hot. Aromatic expression in wine can be driven, from low to high maturity, by green, herbal, fresh fruit, ripe fruit, jammy fruit, candied fruit or cooked fruit aromas. Green and cooked fruit aromas are not desirable in red wines, while the levels of other aromatic compounds contribute to the typicity of the wine in relation to its origin. Wines produced in cool climates, or on cool soils in temperate climates, are likely to express herbal or fresh fruit aromas; while wines produced under warm climates, or on warm soils in temperate climates, may express ripe fruit, jammy fruit or candied fruit aromas. Growers can optimize terroir expression through their choice of grapevine variety. Early ripening varieties perform better in cool climates and late ripening varieties in warm climates. Additionally, maturity can be advanced or delayed by different canopy management practices or training systems.

Impact of changes in pruning practices on vine growth and yield

A gradual decline in vineyards has been observed over the past twenty years worldwide. This might be explained by the climate change, practices change or the increase of dieback diseases. To increase the longevity of vines, we studied the impact of different pruning strategies in four adult and four young vineyards located in France and Spain. In France, vineyards were planted with Cabernet franc on 3309C while Spanish trials were planted with Tempranillo grafted on 110R. Vegetative expression, yield, quality of berries and wood vessels conductivity were measured. The distribution of vegetative expression, yield and berry composition between primary and secondary vegetation were quantified. Finally, tomography was used to evaluate the implication of the treatments on sap flows.
First results show that i) the respectful pruning leads to an increase of 30 to 50% more secondary shoots than the aggressive pruning in France and between 15 and 20% in Spain, ii) there is no major effect on the yield over the first two years following the implementation of the new pruning practices, although the proportion of clusters from suckers is higher on the respectful pruning method. On young vines, the development of the trunk according to a respectful pruning leads to a loss of harvest 2 years after planting. This is due to the removal, on the future trunk, of the green suckers which carrying bunches. This operation carried out in spring rather than during winter pruning, would promote a better leaf / fruit balance when the plant comes into production, and could lead to better hydraulic conduction in the vessels of the trunk. Maintaining these trials for several years will provide more robust data to assess the impact of these practices on the vines over the long term.

Investigating the impact of grape exposure and UV radiations on rotundone in Vitis vinifera L. Tardif grapes under field trial conditions

Rotundone is the main aroma compound responsible for peppery notes in wines whose biosynthesis is negatively affected by heat and drought. Through the alteration of precipitation regime and the increase in temperature during maturation, climate change is expected to affect wine peppery typicality. In this context there is a demand for developing sustainable viticultural strategies to enhance rotundone accumulation or limit its degradation. It was recently proposed that ultraviolet (UV) radiations could stimulate rotundone production. The aim of this study was to investigate under field trial conditions the impact of grape exposure and UV treatments on rotundone in Vitis vinifera L. Tardif, an almost extinct grape variety from south-west France that can express particularly high rotundone levels. Four different treatments were compared in 2021 to a control treatment using a randomised complete block design with three replications per treatment. Grape exposure was manipulated through early or late defoliation. Leaf and laterals shoots were removed at Eichorn Lorenz growth stages 32 or 34 on the morning-sun side of the canopy. During grape maturation, UV radiations were either reduced by 99% by installing UV radiation-shielding sheets, or applied four times using the Boxilumix™ non thermal device (Asclepios Tech, Tournefeuille) with the aim of activating plant signalling pathway. Loggers displayed in solar radiation shields were used to assess the effect of such shielding sheets on air temperature within the bunch zone. The composition of grapes subjected to these treatments will be soon analysed for their rotundone content and basic classical laboratory analyses. Grapes will be harvested to elaborate wines under standardized small-scale vinification conditions (60kg) that will be assessed by a trained sensory panel.

Use of a new, miniaturized, low-cost spectral sensor to estimate and map the vineyard water status from a mobile 

Optimizing the use of water and improving irrigation strategies has become increasingly important in most winegrowing countries due to the consequences of climate change, which are leading to more frequent droughts, heat waves, or alteration of precipitation patterns. Optimized irrigation scheduling can only be based on a reliable knowledge of the vineyard water status.

In this context, this work aims at the development of a novel methodology, using a contactless, miniaturized, low-cost NIR spectral tool to monitor (on-the-go) the vineyard water status variability. On-the-go spectral measurements were acquired in the vineyard using a NIR micro spectrometer, operating in the 900–1900 nm spectral range, from a ground vehicle moving at 3 km/h. Spectral measurements were collected on the northeast side of the canopy across four different dates (July 8th, 14th, 21st and August 12th) during 2021 season in a commercial vineyard (3 ha). Grapevines of Vitis vinifera L. Graciano planted on a VSP trellis were monitored at solar noon using stem water potential (Ψs) as reference indicators of plant water status. In total, 108 measurements of Ψs were taken (27 vines per date).

Calibration and prediction models were performed using Partial Least Squares (PLS) regression. The best prediction models for grapevine water status yielded a determination coefficient of cross-validation (r2cv) of 0.67 and a root mean square error of cross-validation (RMSEcv) of 0.131 MPa. This predictive model was employed to map the spatial variability of the vineyard water status and provided useful, practical information towards the implementation of appropriate irrigation strategies. The outcomes presented in this work show the great potential of this low-cost methodology to assess the vineyard stem water potential and its spatial variability in a commercial vineyard.