Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Approche méthodologique concernant une caractérisation sensorielle de vins rouges de l’Anjou

Approche méthodologique concernant une caractérisation sensorielle de vins rouges de l’Anjou

Abstract

Face à une concurrence de plus en plus rude entre pays producteurs, le vignoble de l’Anjou, déjà riche par sa diversité, souhaite renforcer sa logique de vins d’ A.O.C., notamment au travers de ses vins rouges. Le but a atteindre est d’affiner leur identité en produisant des vins typiques ayant une expression originale difficilement imitable.
Les travaux ont concerné deux types d’AOC productrices de vins rouges: l’«Anjou» et l’«Anjou villages», issus des cépages Cabernet franc et/ou Cabernet-Sauvignon.
En vue de renforcer la typicité de chaque appellation, l’analyse sensorielle a été utilisée dans le cadre de cette étude pour tenter de définir les caractéristiques particulières des vins des deux appellations.
La démarche utilisée s’est organisée en quatre étapes principales:
– Etablissement de la fiche de dégustation
– Entraînement d’un jury
– Dégustation descriptive finale
– Traitement statistique
Elle a nécessité, la mise en place d’un jury de dégustateurs qui s’est réuni 15 fois, afin d’élaborer et de s’entraîner à l’utilisation d’un questionnaire adéquat en se basant sur un échantillonnage de 10 vins du millésime 1996, de chacune des appellations.
Au terme de la première génération de vocabulaire, 379 mots ont été évoqués par l’ensemble des juges. Le nombre élevé de termes a progressivement été réduit. Après de longues séances de notation et de discussion, une liste de 16 termes a finalement été retenue.
Un profil sensoriel de chacune des appellations a été réalisé. Ainsi, il est possible d’affirmer, pour cette gamme de vins du millésime 1996, que ce jury a distingué nettement les «Anjou villages» des «Anjou». Les «Anjou villages» se caractérisent par une «texture» plus astringente et plus persistante. L’impression de plénitude en bouche, marquée par le volume, ressort tout comme les tanins enrobés, malgré une texture plus astringente, qui donnent une impression de gras et de velouté.
La démarche a été étendue, au niveau des commissions d’agrément de l’INAO, lors du millésime 1998. Ainsi, il a été réalisé un profil sensoriel moyen pour chacune des appellations revendiquées, ce qui situe chacun des vins présentés par rapport aux caractéristiques sensorielles de l’une ou l’autre des appellations.
Cette approche met en évidence, que l’AOC initiale ne représente pas quelque chose d’homogène. Il ne faut alors surtout pas traiter la diversité constatée pour tenter de la réduire, mais plutôt l’organiser et la qualifier, en essayant d’aboutir à la définition de la typicité de chaque produit ainsi distingué. L’emboîtement des appellations montre bien cette manière de traiter la diversité, ce qui correspond d’ailleurs aux stratégies des vignerons de bien démarquer leurs produits.
Ainsi, la méthode sensorielle développée, en s’appuyant sur un jury, de vignerons, initié, de grande taille et utilisant une fiche descriptive de dégustation, permet de juger, avec pertinence, de la typicité des «Anjou» et «Anjou villages» au moment des commissions d’agrément mises en place par l’INAO.

DOI:

Publication date: February 24, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2000

Type: Article

Authors

Christian Asselin*, Sophie Milet**, Marie-Hélène Bouvet*, Pascal Cellier***

*INRA Unité de Recherches sur la Vigne et le Vin, Centre d’Angers, BP 57, 42 rue Georges Morel, 49071 Beaucouzé
**Maîtrise en Sciences et Techniques « Le goût et son environnement» Université 37000 Tours
***Institut National des Appellations d’Origine, La Godeline, 73 rue Plantagenêt, 49000 Angers

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2000

Citation

Related articles…

Anthocyanin profile is differentially affected by high temperature, elevated CO2 and water deficit in Tempranillo (Vitis vinifera L.) clones

Anthocyanin potential of grape berries is an important quality factor in wine production. Anthocyanin concentration and profile differ among varieties but it also depends on the environmental conditions, which are expected to be greatly modified by climate change in the future. These modifications may significantly modify the biochemical composition of berries at harvest, and thus wine typicity. Among the diverse approaches proposed to reduce the potential negative effects that climate change may have on grape quality, genetic diversity among clones can represent a source of potential candidates to select better adapted plant material for future climatic conditions. The effects of individual and combined factors associated to climate change (increase of temperature, rise of air CO2 concentration and water deficit) on the anthocyanin profile of different clones of Tempranillo that differ in the length of their reproductive cycle were studied. The aim was to highlight those clones more adapted to maintain specific Tempranillo typicity in the future. Fruit-bearing cuttings were grown in controlled conditions under two temperatures (ambient temperature versus ambient temperature + 4ºC), two CO2 levels (400 ppm versus 700 ppm) and two water regimes (well-watered versus water deficit), both in combination or independently, in order to simulate future climate change scenarios. Elevated temperature increased anthocyanin acylation, whereas elevated CO2 and water deficit favoured the accumulation of malvidin derivatives, as well as the acylation and tri-hydroxylation level of anthocyanins. Although the changes in anthocyanin profile observed followed a common pattern among clones, such impact of environmental conditions was especially noticeable in one of the most widely distributed Tempranillo clones, the accession RJ43.

Impact of yeast derivatives to increase the phenolic maturity and aroma intensity of wine

Using viticultural and enological techniques to increase aromatics in white wine is a prized yet challenging technique for commercial wine producers. Equally difficult are challenges encountered in hastening phenolic maturity and thereby increasing color intensity in red wines. The ability to alter organoleptic and visual properties of wines plays a decisive role in vintages in which grapes are not able to reach full maturity, which is seen increasingly more often as a result of climate change. A new, yeast-based product on the viticultural market may give the opportunity to increase sensory properties of finished wines. Manufacturer packaging claims these yeast derivatives intensify wine aromas of white grape varieties, as well as improve phenolic ripeness of red varieties, but the effects of this application have been little researched until now. The current study applied the yeast derivative, according to the manufacture’s instructions, to the leaves of both neutral and aromatic white wine varieties, as well as on structured red wine varieties. Chemical parameters and volatile aromatics were analyzed in grape musts and finished wines, and all wines were subjected to sensory analysis by a tasting panel. Collective results of all analyses showed that the application of the yeast derivative in the vineyard showed no effect across all varieties examined, and did not intensify white wine aromatics, nor improve phenolic ripeness and color intensity in red wine.

Assessment of the impact of actions in the vineyard and its surrounding environment on biodiversity in Rioja Alavesa (Spain)

Traditional viticulture areas have experienced in the last decades an intensification of field practices, linked to an increased use of fertilisers and phytosanitary products, and to a more intensive mechanization and uniformization of the landscape. This change in management has sometimes led to higher rates of soil erosion andloss of soil structure, fertility decline, groundwater contamination, and to an increased pressure of pests and diseases. Additionally, intensification usually leads to a simplification of landscapes, of particular concern in prestigious wine grape regions where the economical revenue encourages the conversion of land use from natural habitats to high value wine grape production. To revert this trend, it is necessary that growers implement actions that promote biodiversity in their vineyards. The aim of this study is to assess the impact of the implementation of cover crops, vegetational corridors, dry stone walls and vineyard biodiversity hotspots estimated through the study of arthropods. The work has been carried out in four vineyards in Rioja Alavesa belonging to Ostatu winery, where these infrastructures were implemented in 2020. The presence and diversity of arthropods was studied by capturing them at different times in the season and at different distances from the infrastructure using pit-fall traps in the soil and yellow, white and blue chromatic traps at the canopy level. This is a preliminary study in which all adult insects were sorted to the taxonomic level of order and Coleoptera were classified to morphospecies. The results obtained show that there is a relationship between the basic characteristics of the vineyard and the arthropods captured, with a positive effect, although also dependent on the vineyard, of the presence of infrastructure.

Influence of weather and climatic conditions on the viticultural production in Croatia

The research includes an analysis of the impact of weather conditions on phenological development of the vine and grape quality, through monitoring of four experimental cultivars (Chardonnay, Graševina, Merlot and Plavac mali) over two production years. In each experimental vineyard, which were evenly distributed throughout the regions of Slavonia and The Croatian Danube, Croatian Uplands,

A better understanding of the climate effect on anthocyanin accumulation in grapes using a machine learning approach

The current climate changes are directly threatening the balance of the vineyard at harvest time. The maturation period of the grapes is shifted to the middle of the summer, at a time when radiation and air temperature are at their maximum. In this context, the implementation of corrective practices becomes problematic. Unfortunately, our knowledge of the climate effect on the quality of different grape varieties remains very incomplete to guide these choices. During the Innovine project, original experiments were carried out on Syrah to study the combined effects of normal or high air temperature and varying degrees of exposure of the berries to the sun. Berries subjected to these different conditions were sampled and analyzed throughout the maturation period. Several quality characteristics were determined, including anthocyanin content. The objective of the experiments was to investigate which climatic determinants were most important for anthocyanin accumulation in the berries. Temperature and irradiance data, observed over time with a very thin discretization step, are called functional data in statistics. We developed the procedure SpiceFP (Sparse and Structured Procedure to Identify Combined Effects of Functional Predictors) to explain the variations of a scalar response variable (a grape berry quality variable for example) by two or three functional predictors (as temperature and irradiance) in a context of joint influence of these predictors. Particular attention was paid to the interpretability of the results. Analysis of the data using SpiceFP identified a negative impact of morning combinations of low irradiance (lower than about 100 μmol m−2 s−1 or 45 μmol m−2 s−1 depending on the advanced-delayed state of the berries) and high temperature (higher than 25oC). A slight difference associated with overnight temperature occurred between these effects identified in the morning.