Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Approche méthodologique concernant une caractérisation sensorielle de vins rouges de l’Anjou

Approche méthodologique concernant une caractérisation sensorielle de vins rouges de l’Anjou

Abstract

Face à une concurrence de plus en plus rude entre pays producteurs, le vignoble de l’Anjou, déjà riche par sa diversité, souhaite renforcer sa logique de vins d’ A.O.C., notamment au travers de ses vins rouges. Le but a atteindre est d’affiner leur identité en produisant des vins typiques ayant une expression originale difficilement imitable.
Les travaux ont concerné deux types d’AOC productrices de vins rouges: l’«Anjou» et l’«Anjou villages», issus des cépages Cabernet franc et/ou Cabernet-Sauvignon.
En vue de renforcer la typicité de chaque appellation, l’analyse sensorielle a été utilisée dans le cadre de cette étude pour tenter de définir les caractéristiques particulières des vins des deux appellations.
La démarche utilisée s’est organisée en quatre étapes principales:
– Etablissement de la fiche de dégustation
– Entraînement d’un jury
– Dégustation descriptive finale
– Traitement statistique
Elle a nécessité, la mise en place d’un jury de dégustateurs qui s’est réuni 15 fois, afin d’élaborer et de s’entraîner à l’utilisation d’un questionnaire adéquat en se basant sur un échantillonnage de 10 vins du millésime 1996, de chacune des appellations.
Au terme de la première génération de vocabulaire, 379 mots ont été évoqués par l’ensemble des juges. Le nombre élevé de termes a progressivement été réduit. Après de longues séances de notation et de discussion, une liste de 16 termes a finalement été retenue.
Un profil sensoriel de chacune des appellations a été réalisé. Ainsi, il est possible d’affirmer, pour cette gamme de vins du millésime 1996, que ce jury a distingué nettement les «Anjou villages» des «Anjou». Les «Anjou villages» se caractérisent par une «texture» plus astringente et plus persistante. L’impression de plénitude en bouche, marquée par le volume, ressort tout comme les tanins enrobés, malgré une texture plus astringente, qui donnent une impression de gras et de velouté.
La démarche a été étendue, au niveau des commissions d’agrément de l’INAO, lors du millésime 1998. Ainsi, il a été réalisé un profil sensoriel moyen pour chacune des appellations revendiquées, ce qui situe chacun des vins présentés par rapport aux caractéristiques sensorielles de l’une ou l’autre des appellations.
Cette approche met en évidence, que l’AOC initiale ne représente pas quelque chose d’homogène. Il ne faut alors surtout pas traiter la diversité constatée pour tenter de la réduire, mais plutôt l’organiser et la qualifier, en essayant d’aboutir à la définition de la typicité de chaque produit ainsi distingué. L’emboîtement des appellations montre bien cette manière de traiter la diversité, ce qui correspond d’ailleurs aux stratégies des vignerons de bien démarquer leurs produits.
Ainsi, la méthode sensorielle développée, en s’appuyant sur un jury, de vignerons, initié, de grande taille et utilisant une fiche descriptive de dégustation, permet de juger, avec pertinence, de la typicité des «Anjou» et «Anjou villages» au moment des commissions d’agrément mises en place par l’INAO.

DOI:

Publication date: February 24, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2000

Type: Article

Authors

Christian Asselin*, Sophie Milet**, Marie-Hélène Bouvet*, Pascal Cellier***

*INRA Unité de Recherches sur la Vigne et le Vin, Centre d’Angers, BP 57, 42 rue Georges Morel, 49071 Beaucouzé
**Maîtrise en Sciences et Techniques « Le goût et son environnement» Université 37000 Tours
***Institut National des Appellations d’Origine, La Godeline, 73 rue Plantagenêt, 49000 Angers

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2000

Citation

Related articles…

Genotypic variability in root architectural traits and putative implications for water uptake in grafted grapevine

Root system architecture (RSA) is important for soil exploration and edaphic resources acquisition by the plant, and thus contributes largely to its productivity and adaptation to environmental stresses, particularly soil water deficit. In grafted grapevine, while the degree of drought tolerance induced by the rootstock has been well documented in the vineyard, information about the underlying physiological processes, particularly at the root level, is scarce, due to the inherent difficulties in observing large root systems in situ. The objectives of this study were to determine genetic differences in the root architectural traits and their relationships to water uptake in two Vitis rootstocks genotypes (RGM, 140Ru) differing in their adaptation to drought. Young rootstocks grafted upon the Riesling variety were transplanted into cylindrical tubes and in 2D rhizotrons under two conditions, well watered and moderate water stress. Root traits were analyzed by digital imaging and the amount of transpired water was measured gravimetrically twice a week. Root phenotyping after 30 days reveal substantial variation in RSA traits between genotypes despite similar total root mass; the drought-tolerant 140Ru showed higher root length density in the deep layer, while the drought-sensitive RGM was characterised by shallow-angled root system development with more basal roots and a larger proportion of fine roots in the upper half of the tube. Water deficit affected canopy size and shoot mass to a greater extent than root development and architectural-related traits for both 140Ru and RGM, suggesting vertical distribution of roots was controlled by genotype rather than plasticity to soil water regime. The deeper root system of 140Ru as compared to RGM correlated with greater daily water uptake and sustained stomata opening under water-limited conditions but had little effect on above-ground growth. Our results highlight that grapevine rootstocks have constitutively distinct RSA phenotypes and that, in the context of climate change, those that develop an extensive root network at depth may provide a desirable advantage to the plant in coping with reduced water resources.

Effect of regulated deficit irrigation regime on amino acids content of Monastrell (Vitis vinifera L.) grapes

Irrigation is an important practice to influence vine quality, especially in Mediterranean regions, characterized by hot summers and severe droughts during the growing season. This study focused on deficit irrigation regime influence on amino acids composition of Monastrell grapevines under semiarid conditions (Albacete, Southeastern of Spain). In 2019, two treatments were applied: non-irrigation (NI) and regulated deficit irrigation (RDI), watered at 30% of the estimated crop evapotranspiration from fruit set to onset of veraison. Grape amino acids content was analyzed by HPLC. Berries from non-irrigated vines showed higher concentration of several amino acids, such as tryptophan (73%), arginine (70%), lysine (36%), isoleucine (27%), and leucine (21%), compared to RDI grapes. Arginine is, together with ammonium ion, the principal nitrogen source for yeasts during the alcoholic fermentation; while isoleucine, tryptophan, and leucine are precursors of fermentative volatile compounds, key compounds for wine quality. Moreover, NI treatment increased in a 14% the total amino acids content in grapes compared to RDI treatment. The reported effects might be because yield was 70% higher in RDI vines than in the NI ones and, therefore, the sink demand was increased in the irrigated vines. In addition, NI vines suffered more severe water stress and it is known that the amino acids synthesis and accumulation can be influenced by the plant response to stress. According to the results, the irrigation regime showed effect on amino acids concentration in Monastrell grapes under semiarid conditions. Grapes from non-irrigated vines showed a higher content of several amino acids relevant to the fermentative process and to the wine aroma compounds formation. It is demonstrated that the final content of nitrogen-related components in grapes is influenced by the irrigation regime. The convenience of the irrigation strategy to suggest will depend on the desired wine style and the target yield levels.

Mobile device to induce heat-stress on grapevine berries

Studying heat stress response of grapevine berries in the field often relies on weather conditions during the growing season. We constructed a mobile heating device, able to induce controlled heat stress on grapes in vineyards. The heater consisted of six 150 W infrared lamps mounted in a profile frame. Heating power of the lamps could be controlled individually by a control unit consisting of a single board computer and six temperature sensors to reach a pre-set temperature. The heat energy applied to individual berries within a cluster decreases by the squared distance to the heat source, enabling the establishment of temperature profiles within individual clusters. These profiles can be measured by infrared thermography once a steady state has been reached. Radiant flux density received by a berry depending on the distance was calculated based on a view factor and measured lamp surface temperature and resulted to 665 Wm-2 at 7cm. Infrared thermography of the fruit surface was in good agreement with measurements conducted with a thermocouple inserted at epidermis level. In combination with infrared thermography, the presented device offers possibilities for a wide range of applications like phenotyping for heat tolerance in the field to proceed in the understanding of the complex response of plants to heat stress. Sunburn necrosis symptoms were artificially induced with the aid of the device for cv. Bacchus and cv. Sylvaner in the 2020 and 2021 growing season. Threshold temperatures for sunburn induction (LT5030min) were derived from temperature data of single berries and visual sunburn assessment, applying logistic regression. A comparison of threshold temperatures for the occurrence of sunburn necrosis confirmed the higher susceptibility of cv. Bacchus. The lower susceptibility of cv. Sylvaner did not seem to be related to its phenolic composition, rendering a thermoprotective role of berry phenolic compounds unlikely.

Adapting the vineyard to climate change in warm climate regions with cultural practices

Since the 1980s global regime shift, grape growers have been steadily adapting to a changing climate. These adaptations have preserved the region-climate-cultivar rapports that have established the global trade of wine with lucrative economic benefits since the middle of 17th century. The advent of using fractions of crop and actual evapotranspiration replacement in vineyards with the use of supplemental irrigation has furthered the adaptation of wine grape cultivation. The shift in trellis systems, as well as pruning methods from positioned shoot systems to sprawling canopies, as well as adapting the bearing surface from head-trained, cane-pruned to cordon-trained, spur-pruned systems have also aided in the adaptation of grapevine to warmer temperatures. In warm climates, the use of shade cloth or over-head shade films not only have aided in arresting the damage of heat waves, but also identified opportunities to reduce the evapotranspiration from vineyards, reducing environmental footprint of vineyard. Our increase in knowledge on how best to understand the response of grapevine to climate change was aided with the identification of solar radiation exposure biomarker that is now used for phenotyping cultivars in their adaptability to harsh environments. Using fruit-based metrics such as sugar-flavonoid relationships were shown to be better indicators of losses in berry integrity associated with a warming climate, rather than solely focusing on region-climate-cultivar rapports. The resilience of wine grape was further enhanced by exploitation of rootstock × scion combinations that can resist untoward droughts and warm temperatures by making more resilient grapevine combinations. Our understanding of soil-plant-atmosphere continuum in the vineyard has increased within the last 50 years in such a manner that growers are able to use no-till systems with the aid of arbuscular mycorrhiza fungi inoculation with permanent cover cropping making the vineyard more resilient to droughts and heat waves. In premium wine grape regions viticulture has successfully adapted to a rapidly changing climate thus far, but berry based metrics are raising a concern that we may be approaching a tipping point.

The modification of cultural practices in grapevine cv. Syrah, does it modify the characteristics of the musts?

The work shows the results of a year of experimentation (2020) in a Syrah variety vineyard in La Roda (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain). The trial approach was on a randomized block design with two factors: Irrigation (I) and Pruning (P).
Irrigation schedules were adjusted to apply amounts close to 1,500 m3/ha. With this provision, 2 different irrigation treatments were proposed: I1) Start of irrigation from pea-sized grape to post-harvest (providing at least 20 % of the total amount of irrigation water to be provided post-harvest); I2) Start of irrigation from pea-sized grape to harvest (usual irrigation practice in the study area). Pruning was proposed with two treatments, one at the end of January (P1), which is pruning on a conventional date; and P2) pruning carried out at the beginning of budding. In total, 4 repetitions were designed with 4 elementary plots, each one of them representing one of the proposed treatments (I1P1; I1P2; I2P1; I2P2). In total, 16 plots were worked on and each elementary plot consisted of 30 strains, distributed in 3 lines.
The productive response was evaluated with the yield results of the harvest harvested at 23 ºBrix. The qualitative response was measured in the musts through the indices of technological (acidity, pH and potassium) and phenolic maturity and aromatic compounds in free and glycosylated fractions. The treatments tested had, in general, an effect on the different variables analyzed.