Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Approche méthodologique concernant une caractérisation sensorielle de vins rouges de l’Anjou

Approche méthodologique concernant une caractérisation sensorielle de vins rouges de l’Anjou

Abstract

Face à une concurrence de plus en plus rude entre pays producteurs, le vignoble de l’Anjou, déjà riche par sa diversité, souhaite renforcer sa logique de vins d’ A.O.C., notamment au travers de ses vins rouges. Le but a atteindre est d’affiner leur identité en produisant des vins typiques ayant une expression originale difficilement imitable.
Les travaux ont concerné deux types d’AOC productrices de vins rouges: l’«Anjou» et l’«Anjou villages», issus des cépages Cabernet franc et/ou Cabernet-Sauvignon.
En vue de renforcer la typicité de chaque appellation, l’analyse sensorielle a été utilisée dans le cadre de cette étude pour tenter de définir les caractéristiques particulières des vins des deux appellations.
La démarche utilisée s’est organisée en quatre étapes principales:
– Etablissement de la fiche de dégustation
– Entraînement d’un jury
– Dégustation descriptive finale
– Traitement statistique
Elle a nécessité, la mise en place d’un jury de dégustateurs qui s’est réuni 15 fois, afin d’élaborer et de s’entraîner à l’utilisation d’un questionnaire adéquat en se basant sur un échantillonnage de 10 vins du millésime 1996, de chacune des appellations.
Au terme de la première génération de vocabulaire, 379 mots ont été évoqués par l’ensemble des juges. Le nombre élevé de termes a progressivement été réduit. Après de longues séances de notation et de discussion, une liste de 16 termes a finalement été retenue.
Un profil sensoriel de chacune des appellations a été réalisé. Ainsi, il est possible d’affirmer, pour cette gamme de vins du millésime 1996, que ce jury a distingué nettement les «Anjou villages» des «Anjou». Les «Anjou villages» se caractérisent par une «texture» plus astringente et plus persistante. L’impression de plénitude en bouche, marquée par le volume, ressort tout comme les tanins enrobés, malgré une texture plus astringente, qui donnent une impression de gras et de velouté.
La démarche a été étendue, au niveau des commissions d’agrément de l’INAO, lors du millésime 1998. Ainsi, il a été réalisé un profil sensoriel moyen pour chacune des appellations revendiquées, ce qui situe chacun des vins présentés par rapport aux caractéristiques sensorielles de l’une ou l’autre des appellations.
Cette approche met en évidence, que l’AOC initiale ne représente pas quelque chose d’homogène. Il ne faut alors surtout pas traiter la diversité constatée pour tenter de la réduire, mais plutôt l’organiser et la qualifier, en essayant d’aboutir à la définition de la typicité de chaque produit ainsi distingué. L’emboîtement des appellations montre bien cette manière de traiter la diversité, ce qui correspond d’ailleurs aux stratégies des vignerons de bien démarquer leurs produits.
Ainsi, la méthode sensorielle développée, en s’appuyant sur un jury, de vignerons, initié, de grande taille et utilisant une fiche descriptive de dégustation, permet de juger, avec pertinence, de la typicité des «Anjou» et «Anjou villages» au moment des commissions d’agrément mises en place par l’INAO.

DOI:

Publication date: February 24, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2000

Type: Article

Authors

Christian Asselin*, Sophie Milet**, Marie-Hélène Bouvet*, Pascal Cellier***

*INRA Unité de Recherches sur la Vigne et le Vin, Centre d’Angers, BP 57, 42 rue Georges Morel, 49071 Beaucouzé
**Maîtrise en Sciences et Techniques « Le goût et son environnement» Université 37000 Tours
***Institut National des Appellations d’Origine, La Godeline, 73 rue Plantagenêt, 49000 Angers

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2000

Citation

Related articles…

The rootstock, the neglected player in the scion transpiration even during the night

Water is the main limiting factor for yield in viticulture. Improving drought adaptation in viticulture will be an increasingly important issue under climate change. Genetic variability of water deficit responses in grapevine partly results from the rootstocks, making them an attractive and relevant mean to achieve adaptation without changing the scion genotype. The objective of this work was to characterize the rootstock effect on the diurnal regulation of scion transpiration. A large panel of 55 commercial genotypes were grafted onto Cabernet Sauvignon. Three biological repetitions per genotype were analyzed. Potted plants were phenotyped on a greenhouse balance platform capable of assessing real-time water use and maintaining a targeted water deficit intensity. After a 10 days well-watered baseline period, an increasing water deficit was applied for 10 days, followed by a stable water deficit stress for 7 days. Pruning weight, root and aerial dry weight and transpiration were recorded and the experiment was repeated during two years. Transpiration efficiency (ratio between aerial biomass and transpiration) was calculated and δ13C was measured in leaves for the baseline and stable water deficit periods. A large genetic variability was observed within the panel. The rootstock had a significant impact on nocturnal transpiration which was also strongly and positively correlated with maximum daytime transpiration. The correlations with growth and water use efficiency related traits will be discussed. Transpiration data were also related with VPD and soil water content demonstrating the influence of environmental conditions on transpiration. These results highlighted the role of the rootstock in modulating water deficit responses and give insights for rootstock breeding programs aimed at identifying drought tolerant rootstocks. It was also helpful to better define the mechanisms on which the drought tolerance in grapevine rootstocks is based on.

Updating the Winkler index: An analysis of Cabernet sauvignon in Napa Valley’s varied and changing climate

This study aims to create an updated, agile viticultural climate index (similar to the Winkler Index) by performing in-depth analyses of current and historical data from industry partners in several major winegrowing regions. The Winkler Index was developed in the early twentieth century based on analysis of various grape-growing regions in California. The index uses heat accumulation (i.e. Growing Degree Days) throughout the growing season to determine which grape varieties are best suited to each region. As viticultural regions are increasingly subject to the complexity and uncertainty of a changing climate, a more rigorous, agile model is needed to aid grape growers in determining which cultivars to plant where. For the first phase of this study, 21 industry partners throughout Napa Valley shared historical phenology, harvest, viticultural practice, and weather data related to their Cabernet sauvignon vineyard blocks. To complement this data, berry samples were collected throughout the 2021 growing season from 50 vineyard blocks located throughout 16 American Viticultural Areas that were then analyzed for basic berry chemistry and phenolics. These blocks have been mapped using a Geographic Information System (GIS), enabling analysis of altitude, vineyard row orientation, slope, and remotely sensed climate data. Sampling sites were also chosen based on their proximity to a weather station. By analyzing historical data from industry partners and data specifically collected for this study, it is possible to identify key parameters for further analysis. Initial results indicate extreme variability at a high spatial resolution not currently accounted for in modern viticultural climate indices and suggest that viticultural practices play a major role. Using the structure of data collection and analyses developed for the first phase, this project will soon be expanded to other wine regions globally, while continuing data collection in Napa Valley.

Characterization of variety-specific changes in bulk stomatal conductance in response to changes in atmospheric demand and drought stress

In wine growing regions around the world, climate change has the potential to affect vine transpiration and overall vineyard water use due to related changes in atmospheric demand and soil water deficits. Grapevines control their transpiration in response to a changing environment by regulating conductance of water through the soil-plant-atmosphere continuum. Most vineyard water use models currently estimate vine transpiration by applying generic crop coefficients to estimates of reference evapotranspiration, but this does not account for changes in vine conductance associated with water stress, nor differences thought to exist between varieties. The response of bulk stomatal conductance to daily weather variability and seasonal drought stress was studied on Cabernet-Sauvignon, Merlot, Tempranillo, Ugni blanc, and Semillon vines in a non-irrigated vineyard in Bordeaux France. Whole vine sap flow, temperature and humidity in the vine canopy, and net radiation absorbed by the vine canopy were measured on 15-minute intervals from early July through mid-September 2020, together with periodic measurement of leaf area, canopy porosity, and predawn leaf water potential. From this data, bulk stomatal conductance was calculated on 15-minute intervals, and multiple regression analysis was performed to identify key variables and their relative effect on conductance. Attention was focused on addressing multicollinearity and time-dependency in the explanatory variables and developing regression models that were readily interpretable. Variability of vapor pressure deficit over the day, and predawn water potential over the season explained much of the variability in conductance, with relative differences in response coefficients observed across the five varieties. By characterizing this conductance response, the dynamics of vine transpiration can be better parameterized in vineyard water use modeling of current and future climate scenarios.

Grapevine sugar concentration model in the Douro Superior, Portugal

Increasingly warm and dry climate conditions are challenging the viticulture and winemaking sector. Digital technologies and crop modelling bear the promise to provide practical answers to those challenges. As viticultural activities strongly depend on harvest date, its early prediction is particularly important, since the success of winemaking practices largely depends upon this key event, which should be based on an accurate and advanced plan of the annual cycle. Herein, we demonstrate the creation of modelling tools to assess grape ripeness, through sugar concentration monitoring. The study area, the Portuguese Côa valley wine region, represents an important terroir in the “Douro Superior” subregion. Two varieties (cv. Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca) grown in five locations across the Côa Region were considered. Sugar accumulation in grapes, with concentrations between 170 and 230 g l-1, was used from 2014 to 2020 as an indicator of technological maturity conditioned by meteorological factors. The climatic time series were retrieved from the EU Copernicus Service, while sugar data were collected by a non-profit organization, ADVID, and by Sogrape, a leading wine company. The software for calibrating and validating this model framework was the Phenology Modeling Platform (PMP), version 5.5, using Sigmoid and growing degree-day (GDD) models for predictions. The performance was assessed through two metrics: Roots Mean Square Error (RMSE) and efficiency coefficient (EFF), while validation was undertaken using leave-one-out cross-validation. Our findings demonstrate that sugar content is mainly dependent on temperature and air humidity. The models achieved a performance of 0.65

Effects of organic mulches on the soil environment and yield of grapevine

Farming management practices aiming at conserving soil moisture have been developed in arid and semiarid-areas facing water scarcity problems. Organic mulching is an effective method to manipulate the crop-growing microclimate increasing crop yield by controlling soil temperature, and retaining soil moisture by reducing soil evaporation. In this sense, the effectiveness of different organic mulching materials (straw mulch and grapevine pruning debris) applied within the row of a vineyard was evaluated on the soil and on the vine in a Tempranillo vineyard located in La Rioja (Spain). Organic mulches were compared with a traditional bare soil management technique (based on the use of herbicides to avoid weed incidence). Mulching coverages favourably influenced the soil water retention throughout all the grapevine vegetative cycle. However, the soil-moisture variation was not the same under different mulching materials, being the straw mulch (SM) the one that retained more water in comparison with grapevine pruning debris (GPD) based-cover. The changes of soil moisture in the upper surface layer (0–10 cm) were highly dynamic, probably due to water vapour fluxes across the soil-atmospheric interface. However, both, SM and GPD reduced these fluctuations as compared with bare soils. A similar trend occurred with soil temperature. Both organic mulches altered soil temperature in comparison with bare soil by reducing soil temperature in summer and raising it in winter. Moreover, the same buffering effect for the temperature on the covered soil also remains in the deeper layers. To conclude, we could see that organic mulching had a positive impact on soil-moisture storage and soil temperature and the extent of this effect depends on the type of mulching materials. These changes led to higher rates of photosynthesis and stomatal conductivity compared to bare soils, also favouring crop growth and grape yields.