Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 El Malvasía en la isla de la Palma

El Malvasía en la isla de la Palma

Abstract

El tema que me corresponde tratar en esta mini conferencia sobre “Caracterización vitivinícola de las Malvasías en Canarias”, es por razones obvias la parte que atañe a la Isla de La Palma.
Voy a comenzar por la faceta histórica, para pasar luego a la tradición, zonas de cultivo, descripción de la parra, modalidad cultural, el vino y sus atributos organolépticos.
Hablar del malvasía de Canarias es mencionar al malvasía que más fama ha alcanzado a escala universal. William Shakespeare que vivió entre 1564 y 1616 lo inmortalizó citándolo en alguna de sus obras, lo mismo que Sir Walter Scott en la época romántica. Pero fue el veneciano Carlo Goldoni (1707-1792) quien contribuyó a populalizarlo, al citarlo en multitud de ocasiones a través de una extensa producción teatral que alcanzó las 250 obras. Como ejemplo de esta popularidad hay una calle que lleva el nombre de “Malvasía” en la ciudad de Treviso, cercana a Venecia.
Pero hablar del malvasía de Canarias no es hablar de algo mítico; es hablar de algo tangible que continúa en la actualidad y al parecer con renovadas ansias de popularizarlo de nuevo. Estas iniciativas son dignas de aplauso.
A la isla de La Palma le corresponde un protagonismo fundamental en este aspecto. Sin duda alguna las parras llegaron a la isla procedentes de Madeira y de allí pasaron al resto de las islas productoras.
Madeira fue descubierta en 1418 por Juan Gonçalvez Zarco y pronto fue colonizada. La Palma, cuya conquista tuvo lugar en 1493, se aprovechó de la cercanía de Madeira para su desarrollo agrícola y ganadero. Cuando La Palma fue incorporada a la corona española, Madeira llevaba ya 75 años como isla colonizada, con una importante estructura productiva.
La tradición oral también dice que llegaron a La Palma sarmientos de malvasía procedentes de la isla de Lípari, cercana a Sicilia, donde se conserva actualmente una pequeña producción semejante en métodos y calidad a la malvasía palmera.
Voy a basar esta pequeña charla en mi experiencia como viticultor-bodeguero y en una larga tradición familiar que arranca de mis antepasados en torno al año 1700. Uno de mis bisabuelos, Pedro Cabrera, fue el principal cosechero de malvasía dulce de la isla de La Palma y falleció prematuramente en Cuba a finales del siglo XIX. Con su desaparición se interrumpe la producción familiar a gran escala, que recuperó mi extinto padre Elías Carballo Cabrera en torno a 1945, y quien en 1957 realizó la última exportación de vino malvasía dulce a la isla de Cuba. A mí me ha correspondido potenciar y modernizar la producción. Otras familias de la zona de Fuencaliente como los Morera, los Hernández Monterrey o los Hernández Díaz, han sido también destacados productores.
La producción principal de malvasía quedó reducida a Fuencaliente, junto a pequeñas cantidades en el Hoyo de Mazo y Las Breñas.
La microzona de los Llanos Negros, situada en el término municipal de Fuencaliente, al pie del volcán de San Antonio (1677), reviste unas características muy especiales: Es un terreno cubierto de picón, procedente del mencionado volcán, cuyo espesor es de 1.5 a 3 metros. El suelo anterior a la erupción está bajo la capa de picón que se asemeja a una inmensa esponja; se recarga de agua cuando llueve y la suministra al sistema radicular de la planta de forma paulatina. Por esta razón, para plantar la viña hay que excavar zanjas que lleguen al suelo productivo.
Esta microzona está situada a unos 450 metros de altitud sobre el nivel del mar y vuelta al suroeste, resguardada del alisio por el tramo final de la cordillera Cumbre Vieja-Teneguía. La pluviometría media en la década 1990-2000, fue de 385 litros por metro cuadrado y año, con lluvias procedentes del noroeste y suroeste, con algunas ocasionales del norte.
La parra de malvasía es la más vigorosa y la que tiene un mayor desarrollo leñoso, dándose el caso de parras con más de 100 años que aún conservan una buena producción. Es una variedad muy sensible al frío, al viento, a las enfermedades criptogámicas mildiu y oidio, y la más apetecida por los conejos. Pese a todo es la reina por la exquisita calidad de sus uvas para vinificar.
La variedad que se cultiva en Fuencaliente es la “blanca fina”, que tiene abundantes y largos sarmientos y unas hojas pentalobuladas con senos laterales tan marcados que la hacen fácilmente reconocible. Sus racimos son medianos, con baya elíptica pequeña de color ambarino y su producción es irregular.
La forma de cultivo es la de tendido bajo con horquetas para suspender las cepas y sarmientos de forma gradual y a medida que crecen los racimos captar mejor el calor del suelo.
En los Llanos Negros los rayos directos del sol entran avanzada la mañana para encontrarse con abundantes serenadas, donde el prolongado sol de la tarde confiere a los racimos un color inicial a manzanilla, que con la lenta maduración cambian a amarillo dorado y finalmente en la sobremaduración a oro viejo adornado con alegres pasas.
De aquí surge un vino dulce de poesía nacido en un lugar único, que tiene su más profundo secreto en la maduración prolongada y que con toda justicia se le ha descrito como un “tesoro enológico mundial”. ¿Por qué se le denomina así?. Este primor de vino, “boccata de Cardenali” según la expresión franca de un renombrado catador, es un vino naturalmente dulce cuya vinificación se realiza con las levaduras propias de la uva y cuya fermentación se para de forma natural debido a la alta concentración de azúcares que hay inicialmente en el mosto (18-19 ºBé).
La vendimia de sus uvas es la última; la cantidad de horas de exposición a la luz indirecta del sol por las mañanas y los suaves rescoldos de un sol sensual en los ocasos, hacen que se completen de una forma gradual los azúcares, para producir un caldo con fragancia de embrujo muy marcada, propio únicamente de un malvasía naturalmente dulce según la legislación. Fantásticos aromas, sabor dulce con acidez equilibrada y gusto sumamente delicado, que permanece largo tiempo en el paladar. En la imaginación del catador entran los colores, olores y sabores que se identifican con los más exquisitos de la naturaleza y que, con espontáneo entusiasmo, dedican a esta gloria fuencalentera, palmera y canaria.
En suma, un vino logrado en una microzona privilegiada, con un suelo singular en régimen de secano y la pluviometría adecuada, hijo de la reina de las parras, bendecido por el toque y encanto natural conferido por sus propias levaduras; en fin, un vino para aperitivo o postre, una auténtica ambrosía que no puede faltar en las grandes celebraciones y que ha dado renombre a la Isla junto a otras producciones emblemáticas como la seda y el tabaco.
Estamos ante un producto exquisito de primer orden que no ha sido suficientemente valorado y que tiene una fama histórica bien ganada. Esperamos los productores que este vino vuelva a ocupar un lugar merecido como uno de los mejores entre los mejores del mundo.
Deseamos que la cata que al final de este acto se va a realizar confirme estas palabras.

DOI:

Publication date: February 24, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2000 

Type: Article

Authors

ANTONIO CARBALLO PÉREZ

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2000

Citation

Related articles…

Adaptability of grapevines to climate change: characterization of phenology and sugar accumulation of 50 varieties, under hot climate conditions

Climate is the major factor influencing the dynamics of the vegetative cycle and can determine the timing of phenological periods. Knowledge of the phenology of varieties, their chronological duration, and thermal requirements, allows not only for the better management of interventions in the vineyard, but also to predict the varieties’ behaviour in a scenario of climate change, giving the wine producer the possibility of selecting the grape varieties that are best adapted to the climatic conditions of a certain terroir. In 2014, Symington Family Estates, Vinhos, established two grape variety libraries in two different places with distinctive climate conditions (Douro Superior, and Cima Corgo), with the commitment of contributing to a deeper agronomic and oenological understanding of some grape varieties, in hot climate conditions. In these research vineyards are represented local varieties that are important in the regional and national viticulture, but also others that have over time been forgotten — as well as five international reference cultivars. From 2017 to 2021, phenological observations have been made three times a week, following a defined protocol, to determine the average dates of budbreak, flowering and veraison. With the climate data of each location, the thermal requirements of each variety and the chronological duration of each phase have been calculated. During maturation, berry samples have been gathered weekly to study the dynamics of sugar accumulation, between other parameters. The data was analysed applying phenological and sugar accumulation models available in literature. The results obtained show significant differences between the varieties over several parameters, from the chronological duration and thermal requirements to complete the various stages of development, to the differences between the two locations, confirming the influence of the climate on phenology and the stages of maturation, in these specific conditions.

1H-NMR-based Metabolomics to assess the impact of soil type on the chemical composition of Mediterranean red wines

The aim of this study was to evaluate the effects of different soil types on the chemical composition of Mediterranean red wines, through untargeted and targeted 1H-NMR metabolomics. One milliliter of raw wine was analyzed by means of a Bruker Avance II 400 spectrometer operating at 400.15 MHz. The spectra were recorded by applying the NOESYGPPS1D pulse sequency, to achieve water and ethanol signals suppression. No modification of the pH was performed to avoid any chemical alteration of the matrix. The generation of input variables for untargeted analysis was done via bucketing the spectra. The resulting dataset was preprocessed prior to perform unsupervised PCA, by means of MetaboAnalyst web-based tool suite. The identification of compounds for the targeted analysis was performed by comparison to pure compounds spectra by means of SMA plug-in of MNova 14.2.3 software. The dataset containing the concentrations (%) of identified compounds was subjected to one-way analysis of variance (ANOVA) to highlight significant differences among the wines. The untargeted analysis, carried out through the PCA, revealed a clear differentiation among the wines. The fragments of the spectra contributing mostly to the separation were attributed to flavonoids, aroma compounds and amino acids. The targeted analysis leaded to the identification of 68 compounds, whose concentrations were significant different among the wines. The results were related to soils physical-chemical analysis and showed that: 1) high concentrations of flavan-3-ols and flavonols are correlated with high clay content in soils; 2) high concentrations of anthocyanins, amino acids, and aroma compounds are correlated with neutral and moderately alkaline soil pH; 3) low concentrations of flavonoids and aroma compounds are correlated with high soil organic matter content and acidic pH. The 1H-NMR metabolomic analysis proved to be an excellent tool to discriminate between wines originating from grapes grown on different soil types and revealed that soils in the Mediterranean area exert a strong impact on the chemical composition of the wines.

Ecophysiological performance of Vitis rootstocks under water stress

The use of rootstocks tolerant to soil water deficit is an interesting strategy to cope with limited water availability. Currently, several nurseries are breeding new genotypes, but the physiological basis of its responses under water stress are largely unknown. To this end, an ecophysiological assessment of the conventional 110-Richter (110R) and SO4, and the new M1 and M4 rootstocks was carried out in potted ungrafted plants. During one season, these Vitis genotypes were grown under greenhouse conditions and subjected to two water regimes, well-watered and water deficit. Water potentials of plants under water deficit down to < -1.4 MPa, and net photosynthesis (AN) <5 μmol m-2 s-1 did not cause leaf oxidative stress damage compared to well-watered conditions in any of the genotypes. The antioxidant capacity was sufficient to neutralize the mild oxidative stress suffered. Under both treatments, gravimetric differences in daily water use were observed among genotypes, leading to differences in the biomass of root, shoot and leaf. Under well-watered conditions, SO4 and 110R were the most vigorous and M1 and M4 the least. However, under water stress, SO4 exhibited the greatest reduction in biomass while M4 showed the lowest. Remarkably, under these conditions, SO4 reached the least negative stem water potential (Ψstem), while M1 reduced stomatal conductance (gs) and AN the most. In addition, SO4 and M1 genotypes also showed the highest and lowest hydraulic conductance values, respectively. Our results suggest that there are differences in water use regulation among genotypes, not only attributed to differences in stomatal regulation or intrinsic water use efficiency at the leaf level. Therefore, because no differences in canopy-to-root ratio were achieved, it is hypothesized that xylem vessel anatomical differences may be driving the reported differences among rootstocks performance. Results demonstrate that each Vitis rootstock differs in its ecophysiological responses under water stress.

A better understanding of the climate effect on anthocyanin accumulation in grapes using a machine learning approach

The current climate changes are directly threatening the balance of the vineyard at harvest time. The maturation period of the grapes is shifted to the middle of the summer, at a time when radiation and air temperature are at their maximum. In this context, the implementation of corrective practices becomes problematic. Unfortunately, our knowledge of the climate effect on the quality of different grape varieties remains very incomplete to guide these choices. During the Innovine project, original experiments were carried out on Syrah to study the combined effects of normal or high air temperature and varying degrees of exposure of the berries to the sun. Berries subjected to these different conditions were sampled and analyzed throughout the maturation period. Several quality characteristics were determined, including anthocyanin content. The objective of the experiments was to investigate which climatic determinants were most important for anthocyanin accumulation in the berries. Temperature and irradiance data, observed over time with a very thin discretization step, are called functional data in statistics. We developed the procedure SpiceFP (Sparse and Structured Procedure to Identify Combined Effects of Functional Predictors) to explain the variations of a scalar response variable (a grape berry quality variable for example) by two or three functional predictors (as temperature and irradiance) in a context of joint influence of these predictors. Particular attention was paid to the interpretability of the results. Analysis of the data using SpiceFP identified a negative impact of morning combinations of low irradiance (lower than about 100 μmol m−2 s−1 or 45 μmol m−2 s−1 depending on the advanced-delayed state of the berries) and high temperature (higher than 25oC). A slight difference associated with overnight temperature occurred between these effects identified in the morning.

Effect of vigour and number of clusters on eonological parameters and metabolic profile of Cabernet Sauvignon red wines

Vegetative growth and yield are reported to affect grape and wine quality. They can be controlled through different techniques linked to vine management. The objective of this research was to determine the effect of vine vigour and number of clusters per vine on physicochemical composition and phenolic profile of red wines. The experiment was carried out during two vegetative cycles, with cv. Cabernet Sauvignon grafted onto Paulsen 1103. Three vine vigour were defined, according to shoot weight at previous harvests, being low, medium and high. Five treatments of number of clusters were used for each vigour, with 15, 22, 29, 36, and 45 clusters per vine. Grapes from all treatments were harvested in the same day from Brix and total acidity criteria. Thirty days after bottling, classical analyzes and phenolic compounds were performed. As results, different responses were obtained from each vintage. In 2020, a dry season from veraison to harvest, grapes and wines obtained from low vigour treatment and 45 clusters per vine was the highest in sugar and alcohol content respectively, while grapes and wines from high vigour and 15 clusters presented the lowest sugar and alcohol content. Total anthocyanins were higher in treatment with low vigour and 15 clusters, while the lowest amounts were found in low vigour with 45 clusters, as well as medium and high vigour with 36 clusters per vine. Total tannins were higher in high vigour with 22 clusters and medium vigour with 29 clusters, while were lower in low vigour with 36 clusters. In 2021, a wet season at harvest, responses were different, and great variations were observed between treatments. As conclusions, yield and vine vigour had strong influence on grape and wine quality, promoting different enological potentials on which can be indicated/used for aging strategies of red and even rosé wines.