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IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 El Malvasía en la isla de la Palma

El Malvasía en la isla de la Palma

Abstract

El tema que me corresponde tratar en esta mini conferencia sobre “Caracterización vitivinícola de las Malvasías en Canarias”, es por razones obvias la parte que atañe a la Isla de La Palma.
Voy a comenzar por la faceta histórica, para pasar luego a la tradición, zonas de cultivo, descripción de la parra, modalidad cultural, el vino y sus atributos organolépticos.
Hablar del malvasía de Canarias es mencionar al malvasía que más fama ha alcanzado a escala universal. William Shakespeare que vivió entre 1564 y 1616 lo inmortalizó citándolo en alguna de sus obras, lo mismo que Sir Walter Scott en la época romántica. Pero fue el veneciano Carlo Goldoni (1707-1792) quien contribuyó a populalizarlo, al citarlo en multitud de ocasiones a través de una extensa producción teatral que alcanzó las 250 obras. Como ejemplo de esta popularidad hay una calle que lleva el nombre de “Malvasía” en la ciudad de Treviso, cercana a Venecia.
Pero hablar del malvasía de Canarias no es hablar de algo mítico; es hablar de algo tangible que continúa en la actualidad y al parecer con renovadas ansias de popularizarlo de nuevo. Estas iniciativas son dignas de aplauso.
A la isla de La Palma le corresponde un protagonismo fundamental en este aspecto. Sin duda alguna las parras llegaron a la isla procedentes de Madeira y de allí pasaron al resto de las islas productoras.
Madeira fue descubierta en 1418 por Juan Gonçalvez Zarco y pronto fue colonizada. La Palma, cuya conquista tuvo lugar en 1493, se aprovechó de la cercanía de Madeira para su desarrollo agrícola y ganadero. Cuando La Palma fue incorporada a la corona española, Madeira llevaba ya 75 años como isla colonizada, con una importante estructura productiva.
La tradición oral también dice que llegaron a La Palma sarmientos de malvasía procedentes de la isla de Lípari, cercana a Sicilia, donde se conserva actualmente una pequeña producción semejante en métodos y calidad a la malvasía palmera.
Voy a basar esta pequeña charla en mi experiencia como viticultor-bodeguero y en una larga tradición familiar que arranca de mis antepasados en torno al año 1700. Uno de mis bisabuelos, Pedro Cabrera, fue el principal cosechero de malvasía dulce de la isla de La Palma y falleció prematuramente en Cuba a finales del siglo XIX. Con su desaparición se interrumpe la producción familiar a gran escala, que recuperó mi extinto padre Elías Carballo Cabrera en torno a 1945, y quien en 1957 realizó la última exportación de vino malvasía dulce a la isla de Cuba. A mí me ha correspondido potenciar y modernizar la producción. Otras familias de la zona de Fuencaliente como los Morera, los Hernández Monterrey o los Hernández Díaz, han sido también destacados productores.
La producción principal de malvasía quedó reducida a Fuencaliente, junto a pequeñas cantidades en el Hoyo de Mazo y Las Breñas.
La microzona de los Llanos Negros, situada en el término municipal de Fuencaliente, al pie del volcán de San Antonio (1677), reviste unas características muy especiales: Es un terreno cubierto de picón, procedente del mencionado volcán, cuyo espesor es de 1.5 a 3 metros. El suelo anterior a la erupción está bajo la capa de picón que se asemeja a una inmensa esponja; se recarga de agua cuando llueve y la suministra al sistema radicular de la planta de forma paulatina. Por esta razón, para plantar la viña hay que excavar zanjas que lleguen al suelo productivo.
Esta microzona está situada a unos 450 metros de altitud sobre el nivel del mar y vuelta al suroeste, resguardada del alisio por el tramo final de la cordillera Cumbre Vieja-Teneguía. La pluviometría media en la década 1990-2000, fue de 385 litros por metro cuadrado y año, con lluvias procedentes del noroeste y suroeste, con algunas ocasionales del norte.
La parra de malvasía es la más vigorosa y la que tiene un mayor desarrollo leñoso, dándose el caso de parras con más de 100 años que aún conservan una buena producción. Es una variedad muy sensible al frío, al viento, a las enfermedades criptogámicas mildiu y oidio, y la más apetecida por los conejos. Pese a todo es la reina por la exquisita calidad de sus uvas para vinificar.
La variedad que se cultiva en Fuencaliente es la “blanca fina”, que tiene abundantes y largos sarmientos y unas hojas pentalobuladas con senos laterales tan marcados que la hacen fácilmente reconocible. Sus racimos son medianos, con baya elíptica pequeña de color ambarino y su producción es irregular.
La forma de cultivo es la de tendido bajo con horquetas para suspender las cepas y sarmientos de forma gradual y a medida que crecen los racimos captar mejor el calor del suelo.
En los Llanos Negros los rayos directos del sol entran avanzada la mañana para encontrarse con abundantes serenadas, donde el prolongado sol de la tarde confiere a los racimos un color inicial a manzanilla, que con la lenta maduración cambian a amarillo dorado y finalmente en la sobremaduración a oro viejo adornado con alegres pasas.
De aquí surge un vino dulce de poesía nacido en un lugar único, que tiene su más profundo secreto en la maduración prolongada y que con toda justicia se le ha descrito como un “tesoro enológico mundial”. ¿Por qué se le denomina así?. Este primor de vino, “boccata de Cardenali” según la expresión franca de un renombrado catador, es un vino naturalmente dulce cuya vinificación se realiza con las levaduras propias de la uva y cuya fermentación se para de forma natural debido a la alta concentración de azúcares que hay inicialmente en el mosto (18-19 ºBé).
La vendimia de sus uvas es la última; la cantidad de horas de exposición a la luz indirecta del sol por las mañanas y los suaves rescoldos de un sol sensual en los ocasos, hacen que se completen de una forma gradual los azúcares, para producir un caldo con fragancia de embrujo muy marcada, propio únicamente de un malvasía naturalmente dulce según la legislación. Fantásticos aromas, sabor dulce con acidez equilibrada y gusto sumamente delicado, que permanece largo tiempo en el paladar. En la imaginación del catador entran los colores, olores y sabores que se identifican con los más exquisitos de la naturaleza y que, con espontáneo entusiasmo, dedican a esta gloria fuencalentera, palmera y canaria.
En suma, un vino logrado en una microzona privilegiada, con un suelo singular en régimen de secano y la pluviometría adecuada, hijo de la reina de las parras, bendecido por el toque y encanto natural conferido por sus propias levaduras; en fin, un vino para aperitivo o postre, una auténtica ambrosía que no puede faltar en las grandes celebraciones y que ha dado renombre a la Isla junto a otras producciones emblemáticas como la seda y el tabaco.
Estamos ante un producto exquisito de primer orden que no ha sido suficientemente valorado y que tiene una fama histórica bien ganada. Esperamos los productores que este vino vuelva a ocupar un lugar merecido como uno de los mejores entre los mejores del mundo.
Deseamos que la cata que al final de este acto se va a realizar confirme estas palabras.

DOI:

Publication date: February 24, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2000 

Type: Article

Authors

ANTONIO CARBALLO PÉREZ

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2000

Citation

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