Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 El Malvasía en la isla de la Palma

El Malvasía en la isla de la Palma

Abstract

El tema que me corresponde tratar en esta mini conferencia sobre “Caracterización vitivinícola de las Malvasías en Canarias”, es por razones obvias la parte que atañe a la Isla de La Palma.
Voy a comenzar por la faceta histórica, para pasar luego a la tradición, zonas de cultivo, descripción de la parra, modalidad cultural, el vino y sus atributos organolépticos.
Hablar del malvasía de Canarias es mencionar al malvasía que más fama ha alcanzado a escala universal. William Shakespeare que vivió entre 1564 y 1616 lo inmortalizó citándolo en alguna de sus obras, lo mismo que Sir Walter Scott en la época romántica. Pero fue el veneciano Carlo Goldoni (1707-1792) quien contribuyó a populalizarlo, al citarlo en multitud de ocasiones a través de una extensa producción teatral que alcanzó las 250 obras. Como ejemplo de esta popularidad hay una calle que lleva el nombre de “Malvasía” en la ciudad de Treviso, cercana a Venecia.
Pero hablar del malvasía de Canarias no es hablar de algo mítico; es hablar de algo tangible que continúa en la actualidad y al parecer con renovadas ansias de popularizarlo de nuevo. Estas iniciativas son dignas de aplauso.
A la isla de La Palma le corresponde un protagonismo fundamental en este aspecto. Sin duda alguna las parras llegaron a la isla procedentes de Madeira y de allí pasaron al resto de las islas productoras.
Madeira fue descubierta en 1418 por Juan Gonçalvez Zarco y pronto fue colonizada. La Palma, cuya conquista tuvo lugar en 1493, se aprovechó de la cercanía de Madeira para su desarrollo agrícola y ganadero. Cuando La Palma fue incorporada a la corona española, Madeira llevaba ya 75 años como isla colonizada, con una importante estructura productiva.
La tradición oral también dice que llegaron a La Palma sarmientos de malvasía procedentes de la isla de Lípari, cercana a Sicilia, donde se conserva actualmente una pequeña producción semejante en métodos y calidad a la malvasía palmera.
Voy a basar esta pequeña charla en mi experiencia como viticultor-bodeguero y en una larga tradición familiar que arranca de mis antepasados en torno al año 1700. Uno de mis bisabuelos, Pedro Cabrera, fue el principal cosechero de malvasía dulce de la isla de La Palma y falleció prematuramente en Cuba a finales del siglo XIX. Con su desaparición se interrumpe la producción familiar a gran escala, que recuperó mi extinto padre Elías Carballo Cabrera en torno a 1945, y quien en 1957 realizó la última exportación de vino malvasía dulce a la isla de Cuba. A mí me ha correspondido potenciar y modernizar la producción. Otras familias de la zona de Fuencaliente como los Morera, los Hernández Monterrey o los Hernández Díaz, han sido también destacados productores.
La producción principal de malvasía quedó reducida a Fuencaliente, junto a pequeñas cantidades en el Hoyo de Mazo y Las Breñas.
La microzona de los Llanos Negros, situada en el término municipal de Fuencaliente, al pie del volcán de San Antonio (1677), reviste unas características muy especiales: Es un terreno cubierto de picón, procedente del mencionado volcán, cuyo espesor es de 1.5 a 3 metros. El suelo anterior a la erupción está bajo la capa de picón que se asemeja a una inmensa esponja; se recarga de agua cuando llueve y la suministra al sistema radicular de la planta de forma paulatina. Por esta razón, para plantar la viña hay que excavar zanjas que lleguen al suelo productivo.
Esta microzona está situada a unos 450 metros de altitud sobre el nivel del mar y vuelta al suroeste, resguardada del alisio por el tramo final de la cordillera Cumbre Vieja-Teneguía. La pluviometría media en la década 1990-2000, fue de 385 litros por metro cuadrado y año, con lluvias procedentes del noroeste y suroeste, con algunas ocasionales del norte.
La parra de malvasía es la más vigorosa y la que tiene un mayor desarrollo leñoso, dándose el caso de parras con más de 100 años que aún conservan una buena producción. Es una variedad muy sensible al frío, al viento, a las enfermedades criptogámicas mildiu y oidio, y la más apetecida por los conejos. Pese a todo es la reina por la exquisita calidad de sus uvas para vinificar.
La variedad que se cultiva en Fuencaliente es la “blanca fina”, que tiene abundantes y largos sarmientos y unas hojas pentalobuladas con senos laterales tan marcados que la hacen fácilmente reconocible. Sus racimos son medianos, con baya elíptica pequeña de color ambarino y su producción es irregular.
La forma de cultivo es la de tendido bajo con horquetas para suspender las cepas y sarmientos de forma gradual y a medida que crecen los racimos captar mejor el calor del suelo.
En los Llanos Negros los rayos directos del sol entran avanzada la mañana para encontrarse con abundantes serenadas, donde el prolongado sol de la tarde confiere a los racimos un color inicial a manzanilla, que con la lenta maduración cambian a amarillo dorado y finalmente en la sobremaduración a oro viejo adornado con alegres pasas.
De aquí surge un vino dulce de poesía nacido en un lugar único, que tiene su más profundo secreto en la maduración prolongada y que con toda justicia se le ha descrito como un “tesoro enológico mundial”. ¿Por qué se le denomina así?. Este primor de vino, “boccata de Cardenali” según la expresión franca de un renombrado catador, es un vino naturalmente dulce cuya vinificación se realiza con las levaduras propias de la uva y cuya fermentación se para de forma natural debido a la alta concentración de azúcares que hay inicialmente en el mosto (18-19 ºBé).
La vendimia de sus uvas es la última; la cantidad de horas de exposición a la luz indirecta del sol por las mañanas y los suaves rescoldos de un sol sensual en los ocasos, hacen que se completen de una forma gradual los azúcares, para producir un caldo con fragancia de embrujo muy marcada, propio únicamente de un malvasía naturalmente dulce según la legislación. Fantásticos aromas, sabor dulce con acidez equilibrada y gusto sumamente delicado, que permanece largo tiempo en el paladar. En la imaginación del catador entran los colores, olores y sabores que se identifican con los más exquisitos de la naturaleza y que, con espontáneo entusiasmo, dedican a esta gloria fuencalentera, palmera y canaria.
En suma, un vino logrado en una microzona privilegiada, con un suelo singular en régimen de secano y la pluviometría adecuada, hijo de la reina de las parras, bendecido por el toque y encanto natural conferido por sus propias levaduras; en fin, un vino para aperitivo o postre, una auténtica ambrosía que no puede faltar en las grandes celebraciones y que ha dado renombre a la Isla junto a otras producciones emblemáticas como la seda y el tabaco.
Estamos ante un producto exquisito de primer orden que no ha sido suficientemente valorado y que tiene una fama histórica bien ganada. Esperamos los productores que este vino vuelva a ocupar un lugar merecido como uno de los mejores entre los mejores del mundo.
Deseamos que la cata que al final de este acto se va a realizar confirme estas palabras.

DOI:

Publication date: February 24, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2000 

Type: Article

Authors

ANTONIO CARBALLO PÉREZ

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2000

Citation

Related articles…

Characterization of variety-specific changes in bulk stomatal conductance in response to changes in atmospheric demand and drought stress

In wine growing regions around the world, climate change has the potential to affect vine transpiration and overall vineyard water use due to related changes in atmospheric demand and soil water deficits. Grapevines control their transpiration in response to a changing environment by regulating conductance of water through the soil-plant-atmosphere continuum. Most vineyard water use models currently estimate vine transpiration by applying generic crop coefficients to estimates of reference evapotranspiration, but this does not account for changes in vine conductance associated with water stress, nor differences thought to exist between varieties. The response of bulk stomatal conductance to daily weather variability and seasonal drought stress was studied on Cabernet-Sauvignon, Merlot, Tempranillo, Ugni blanc, and Semillon vines in a non-irrigated vineyard in Bordeaux France. Whole vine sap flow, temperature and humidity in the vine canopy, and net radiation absorbed by the vine canopy were measured on 15-minute intervals from early July through mid-September 2020, together with periodic measurement of leaf area, canopy porosity, and predawn leaf water potential. From this data, bulk stomatal conductance was calculated on 15-minute intervals, and multiple regression analysis was performed to identify key variables and their relative effect on conductance. Attention was focused on addressing multicollinearity and time-dependency in the explanatory variables and developing regression models that were readily interpretable. Variability of vapor pressure deficit over the day, and predawn water potential over the season explained much of the variability in conductance, with relative differences in response coefficients observed across the five varieties. By characterizing this conductance response, the dynamics of vine transpiration can be better parameterized in vineyard water use modeling of current and future climate scenarios.

Assessing the relationship between cordon strangulation, dieback, and fungal trunk disease symptom expression

Grapevine trunk diseases including Eutypa dieback are a major factor in the decline of vineyards and may lead to loss of productivity, reduced income, and premature reworking or replanting. Several studies have yielded results indicating that vines may be more likely to express symptoms of vascular disease if their health is already compromised by stress. In Australia and many other wine-growing regions it is a common practice for canes to be wrapped tightly around the cordon wire during the establishment of permanent cordon arms. It is likely that this practice may have a negative effect on health and longevity, as older cordons that have been trained in this manner often display signs of decay and dieback, with the wire often visibly embedded within the wood of the cordon. It is possible that adopting a training method which avoids constriction of the vasculature of the cordon may help to limit the onset of vascular disease symptom expression. A survey was conducted during the spring of two consecutive growing seasons on vineyards in South Australia displaying symptoms of Eutypa lata infection when symptomless shoots were 50–100 cm long. Vines were assessed as follows: (i) the proportion of cordon exhibiting dieback was rated using a 0–100% scale; (ii) the proportion of canopy exhibiting foliar symptoms of Eutypa dieback was rated using a 0–100% scale; (iii) the severity of strangulation was rated using a 0–4 point scale. Images were also taken of each vine for the purpose of measuring plant area index (PAI) using the VitiCanopy App. The goal of the survey was to determine if and to what extent any correlation exists between severity of strangulation and cordon dieback, in addition to Eutypa dieback foliar symptom expression.

1H-NMR-based Metabolomics to assess the impact of soil type on the chemical composition of Mediterranean red wines

The aim of this study was to evaluate the effects of different soil types on the chemical composition of Mediterranean red wines, through untargeted and targeted 1H-NMR metabolomics. One milliliter of raw wine was analyzed by means of a Bruker Avance II 400 spectrometer operating at 400.15 MHz. The spectra were recorded by applying the NOESYGPPS1D pulse sequency, to achieve water and ethanol signals suppression. No modification of the pH was performed to avoid any chemical alteration of the matrix. The generation of input variables for untargeted analysis was done via bucketing the spectra. The resulting dataset was preprocessed prior to perform unsupervised PCA, by means of MetaboAnalyst web-based tool suite. The identification of compounds for the targeted analysis was performed by comparison to pure compounds spectra by means of SMA plug-in of MNova 14.2.3 software. The dataset containing the concentrations (%) of identified compounds was subjected to one-way analysis of variance (ANOVA) to highlight significant differences among the wines. The untargeted analysis, carried out through the PCA, revealed a clear differentiation among the wines. The fragments of the spectra contributing mostly to the separation were attributed to flavonoids, aroma compounds and amino acids. The targeted analysis leaded to the identification of 68 compounds, whose concentrations were significant different among the wines. The results were related to soils physical-chemical analysis and showed that: 1) high concentrations of flavan-3-ols and flavonols are correlated with high clay content in soils; 2) high concentrations of anthocyanins, amino acids, and aroma compounds are correlated with neutral and moderately alkaline soil pH; 3) low concentrations of flavonoids and aroma compounds are correlated with high soil organic matter content and acidic pH. The 1H-NMR metabolomic analysis proved to be an excellent tool to discriminate between wines originating from grapes grown on different soil types and revealed that soils in the Mediterranean area exert a strong impact on the chemical composition of the wines.

Grapevine yield estimation in a context of climate change: the GraY model

Grapevine yield is a key indicator to assess the impacts of climate change and the relevance of adaptation strategies in a vineyard landscape. At this scale, a yield model should use a number of parameters and input data in relation to the information available and be able to reproduce vineyard management decisions (e.g. soil and canopy management, irrigation). In this study, we used data from six experimental sites in Southern France (cv. Syrah) to calibrate a model of grapevine yield limited by water constraint (GraY). Each yield component (bud fertility, number of berries per bunch, berry weight) was calculated as a function of the soil water availability simulated by the WaLIS water balance model at critical phenological phases. The model was then evaluated in 10 grapegrowers’ plots, covering a diversity of biophysical and technical contexts (soil type, canopy size, irrigation, cover crop). We identified three critical periods for yield formation: after flowering on the previous year for the number of bunches and berries, around pre-veraison and post-veraison of the same year for mean berry weight. Yields were simulated with a model efficiency (EF) of 0.62 (NRMSE = 0.28). Bud fertility and number of berries per bunch were more accurately simulated (EF = 0.90 and 0.77, NRMSE = 0.06 and 0.10, respectively) than berry weight (EF = -0.31, NRMSE = 0.17). Model efficiency on the on-farm plots reached 0.71 (NRMSE = 0.37) simulating yields from 1 to 8 kg/plant. The GraY model is an original model estimating grapevine yield evolution on the basis of water availability under future climatic conditions.  It allows to evaluate the effects of various adaptation levers such as planting density, cover crop management, fruit/leaf ratio, shading and irrigation, in various production contexts.

Using δ13C and hydroscapes as a tool for discriminating cultivar specific drought response

Measurement of carbon isotope discrimination in berry juice sugars at maturity (δ13C) provides an integrated assessment of water use efficiency (WUE) during the period of berry ripening, and when collected over multiple seasons can be used as an indication of drought stress response. Berry juice δ13C measurements were carried out on 48 different varieties planted in a common garden experiment in Bordeaux, France from 2014 through 2021 and were paired with midday and predawn leaf water potential measurements on the same vines in a subset of six varieties. The aim was to discriminate a large panel of varieties based on their stomatal behaviour and potentially identify hydraulic traits characterizing drought tolerance by comparing δ13C and hydroscapes (the visualisation of plant stomatal behaviour as a response to predawn water potential). Cluster analysis found that δ13C values are likely affected by the differing phenology of each variety, resulting in berry ripening of different varieties taking place under different stress conditions within the same year. We accounted for these phenological differences and found that cluster analysis based on specific δ13C metrics created a classification of varieties that corresponds well to our current empirical understanding of their relative drought tolerances. In addition, we analysed the water potential regulation of the subset of six varieties (using the hydroscape approach) and found that it was well correlated with some δ13C metrics. Surprisingly, a variety’s water potential regulation (specifically its minimum critical leaf water potential under water deficit) was strongly correlated to δ13C values under well-watered conditions, suggesting that base WUE may have a stronger impact on drought tolerance than WUE under water deficit. These results give strong insights on the innate WUE of a very large panel of varieties and suggest that studies of drought tolerance should include traits expressed under non-limiting conditions.