Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 El viñedo en Lanzarote y el Archipiélago Canario

El viñedo en Lanzarote y el Archipiélago Canario

Abstract

La isla de Lanzarote, primera en ser ocupada en los albores del siglo XV, es la única del archipiélago, junto con Fuerteventura, que no produjo vino. Ocasionalmente hubo algún parral para el consumo de su uva, pero no fue hasta la erupción volcánica de 1730-1736 en que se posibilitó su cultivo.
La dieta mediterránea (pan, aceite, vino, frutas) fue impuesta desde un principio por los ocupantes europeos. Lanzarote producía y exportaba cereales, carne y queso de cabra, mientras que adquiría fuera los vinos, bien andaluces, canarios o madeirenses.
Así siguieron las cosas hasta la erupción volcánica de 1730. Durante casi siete años, la lava y las arenas volcánicas arruinaron las mejores zonas agrícolas de la isla, impidiendo el cultivo de los cereales tradicionales. Ante tanta desgracia se comenzó a observar que ahoyando la tierra, es decir, apartando las arenas volcánicas hasta llegar a la tierra cultivable, podían plantarse árboles frutales, incluso viñas.
En los cuarenta del siglo XVIII se va acelerando el proceso de plantación por los obstáculos legales que se impuso a los aguardientes foráneos, señaladamente catalanes y mallorquines. Ello hizo que los comerciantes tinerfeños a​quella isla dominaba el mercado del vino del archipiélago, además de ser la mayor productora- se interesaran por los incipientes caldos conejeros con la finalidad de convertirlos en aguardiente. A tal fin, instalaron en Arrecife sus destilerías llegando a traer el combustible desde Tenerife, pues esta nueva actividad dejó a los lanzaroteños sin leña para cocinar.
El impulso del viñedo, merced a la demanda tinerfeña aceleró su plantación, que resultaba muy fatigosa pues obligaba a ahoyar las arenas (lo que solucionaba en parte la escasez de agua) y a proteger la planta de los vientos, bien con el hoyo de arena si resultaba lo suficiente profundo, bien mediante la construcción de unas pequeñas paredes de piedra seca, obtenidas picando las rocas volcánicas.
George Glas, comerciante británico, profundo conocedor de la sociedad canaria del segundo tercio del siglo XVIII, ilustrado y llevado a prisión por la Inquisición, mercader de vinos, viajero incansable y que visitó varias veces Lanzarote, nos da cuenta del incipiente comienzo de la viña en nuestra isla. Según él, en la década de 1750 o inicios de 1760 se producía cierta cantidad de vino que casi en su totalidad se exportaba a Tenerife, una vez destilado.
En 1749, el Cabildo lanzaroteño ya adopta un acuerdo “sobre la preferencia de los vinos de esta isla y compra de pipas de las que vienen de fuera”.
En 1776, aparece una obra de autor desconocido, titulada “El Compendio”, que nos da una idea pormenorizada del estado de la agricultura en la isla, cuarenta años después de la erupción del Timanfaya. Destaca que el viñedo se multiplica y que el vino se destinaba en su mayor parte para la elaboración de aguardientes que los tinerfeños realizaban en Arrecife, impulsando su desarrollo en detrimento de la Villa de Teguise, a la que acabó por arrebatar la capitalidad de la isla.
A mediados del XVIII, los malvasías canarios estaban casi desaparecidos, porque se elaboraban nuevos vinos tipo madeira (y que pasaban por tales en el mercado internacional), muy alcohólicos y con bastante color, que se obtenía utilizando parte de uva negra. En Lanzarote primaban las listanes blancas, como en el resto del archipiélago.
En el comienzo del siglo XIX, el vino lanzaroteño se consume cada vez más como vino, disminuyendo por tanto la importancia de los destilados. Este proceso se ve acelerado por la decadencia de los vinos canarios a partir de 1818, que llevó en 1853 a su casi exterminio, merced a unos ataques de oidio mal combatidos. La importancia de la vinificación en Lanzarote desde los comienzos del XIX, hizo que se sustituyeran buena parte de los Listanes por cepas de Malvasía, algo menos productiva pero de mayor calidad. En esta época la crisis afectó a los vinos comunes, con lo cual hasta finales del XIX, consecuencia de la filoxera en Francia, no se produce una recuperación de los vinos canarios.
En la exposición vitícola nacional de 1877, celebrada en Madrid como consecuencia del boom vitivinícola que se produjo como consecuencia del ataque de filoxera en Francia, se elaboró un informe sobre plantaciones, varietales, tipos de vino, etc.
De Lanzarote destaca como variedad la Malvasía, plantada en la isla a lo largo del XIX, probablemente de Sitges, varietal y vino fuertemente cotizados en la península desde comienzos de dicho siglo. En los comienzos de la viña lanzaroteña se plantaron los listanes, más productivos, ya que se trataba de elaborar aguardientes, aunque posteriormente fue la Malvasía la que se plantó de modo mayoritario cuando se trataba de exportar vinos a las islas mayores.
El siglo XX puede resumirse en lo ocurrido en los últimos años. En los años 60-70 se produce un abandono de gran parte del viñedo, principalmente de grandes propietarios debido al inicio del ciclo turístico. Esto supone también el cierre de muchas bodegas.
En la década de los 80, se inicia el cambio de los métodos de vinificación, introduciendo nuevas tecnologías que acercan la producción a los gustos del consumidor.

DOI:

Publication date: February 24, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2000 

Type: Article

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2000

Citation

Related articles…

Towards a regional mapping of vine water status based on crowdsourcing observations

Monitoring vine water status is a major challenge for vineyard management because it influences both yield and harvest quality. It is also a challenge at the territorial scale for identifying periods of high water restriction or zones regularly impacted by water stress. This information is of major importance for defining collective strategies, anticipating harvest logistic or applying for irrigation authorisation. At this spatial scale, existing tools and methods for monitoring vine water status are few and often require strong assumptions (e.g. water balance model). This paper proposes to consider a collaborative collection of observations by winegrowers and wine industry stakeholders (crowdsourcing) as an interesting alternative. Indeed, it allows the collection of a large number of field observations while pooling the collection effort. However, the feasibility of such a project and its interest in monitoring vine water status at regional scale has never been tested.

The objective of this article is to explore the possibility of making a regional map of vine water status based on crowdsourcing observations. It is based on the study of the free mobile application ApeX-Vigne, which allows the collection of observations about vine shoot growth. This information is easy to collect and can be considered, under certain conditions, as a proxy for vine water status. This article presents the first results obtained from the nearly 18,000 observations collected by winegrowers and wine industry stakeholders during 2019, 2020 and 2021 seasons. It presents the vine shoot growth maps obtained at regional scale and their evolution over the three vintages studied. It also proposes an analysis of the factors that favoured the number of observations collected and those that favoured their quality. These results open up new perspectives for monitoring vine water status at a regional scale but above they provide references for other crowdsourcing projects in viticulture.

Estimating bulk stomatal conductance of grapevine canopies

In response to changes in their environment, grapevines regulate transpiration using various physiological mechanisms that alter conductance of water through the soil-plant-atmosphere continuum. Expressed as bulk stomatal conductance at the canopy scale, it varies diurnally in response to changes in vapor pressure deficit and net radiation, and over the season to changes in soil water deficits and hydraulic conductivity of both soil and plant. It is necessary to characterize the response of conductance to these variables to better model how vine transpiration also responds to these variables. Furthermore, to be relevant for vineyard-scale modeling, conductance is best characterized using data collected in a vineyard setting. Applying a crop canopy energy flux model developed by Shuttleworth and Wallace, bulk stomatal conductance was estimated using measurements of individual vine sap flow, temperature and humidity within the vine canopy, and estimates of net radiation absorbed by the vine canopy. These measurements were taken on several vines in a non-irrigated vineyard in Bordeaux France, using equipment that did not interfere with ongoing vineyard operations. An inverted Penman-Monteith equation was then used to calculate bulk stomatal conductance on 15-minute intervals from July to mid-September 2020. Time-series plots show significant diurnal variation and seasonal decreases in conductance, with overall values similar to those in the literature. Global sensitivity analysis using non-parametric regression found transpiration flux and vapor pressure deficit to be the most important input variables to the calculation of bulk stomatal conductance, with absorbed net radiation and bulk boundary layer conductance being much less important. Conversely, bulk stomatal conductance was one of the most important inputs when calculating vine transpiration, further emphasizing the need for characterizing its response to environmental changes for use in vineyard water use modeling.

Spatial determination of areas in the Western Balkans region favorable for organic production

In problematic conditions for production of grapes and wine caused by the COVID-19 pandemic and the resulting occurrence of wine surpluses, producers are increasingly turning to the innovative viticulture and winemaking of products that are more appealing to the market and the consumers. On the other hand, consumption of the food safety or organic products, and therefore of organic grapes and wine, is increasingly common in the world, in particular in Europe. The Regional Rural Development Standing Working Group (SWG RRD), as a regional intergovernmental organization gathers actors in the viticulture and winemaking sector from states and territories of the Western Balkans (South-East Europe) in the Expert Working Group for Wine, with the aim of improving viticulture and winemaking in this region through joint activities. In accordance with the aforementioned, the SWG RRD is working on advancing organic production of grapes and wine, and on recognition of specificities of the terroir of wine-growing areas in Western Balkans. In addition, as part of the project “Facilitation of Exchange and Advice on Wine Regulations in Western Balkan Countries” helmed by the German Federal Ministry of Food and Agriculture, in addition to harmonization of relevant legislation with EU regulations, efforts are being invested towards recognition of organic wines. Within activities and project implemented by this organization, expert analyses and scientific research of the terroir of Western Balkans were carried out, and some of the results are presented in this paper.

Diagnosis of soil quality and evaluation of the impact of viticultural practices on soil biodiversity in a vineyard in southwestern France

Viticulture is facing two major changes – climate change and agroecological transition. In both cases, soil quality is seen as a lever to move towards a more sustainable viticulture. However, soil biological quality is little considered in the implementation of viticultural practices. Gascogn’Innov (2017-2022) is an Operational Group funded by the European Innovation Partnership for Agriculture. As such, it brings together winegrowers from the south-west of France, scientists, advisors and technicians, around a project focused on viticultural soil biological functioning and the design of technical routes more respectful toward soil heritage. To achieve this, the project aims to acquire references on the impact of viticultural practices on soil biology from a dynamic way, and to test a methodology to integrate information provided by the soil bioindicators to manage farming systems. A set of indicators of soil biological quality are evaluated in the project: microorganisms (bacteria and fungi abundance and diversity), fauna (abundance and diversity of nematodes and earthworms), physico-chemical characteristics, soil structure assessment and degradation rate of organic matter. Based on a network of 13 plots that have been subject to an initial diagnosis in 2017, several agronomical practices to restore soil fertility are experimented to redesign the cropping system (for instance plant cover, organic matter inputs, reduction of herbicides, mineral fertilizers). System redesign was made in collaboration by winegrowers and an interdisciplinary group of experts (agronomists, biologists). Several indicators are measured on vine and soil at each vintage to assess vine health and productivity. At the end of the project (2021), a final diagnosis was carried out. Gascogn’Innov allowed to create a regional database on the quality of wine-growing soils, which permitted to evaluate the effect of practices according to soil types. Especially, decreasing the intensity of tillage and increasing the duration and diversity of grass coverage tends to increase the abundance of all the organisms studied. This project confirmed the value of soil biological quality indicators to drive the sustainability of practices, but also highlighted the key-role of expertise, in both agronomy and soil biology, to help winegrowers understand and appropriate their soil quality diagnoses.

Deconstructing the soil component of terroir: from controversy to consensus

Wine terroir describes the collectively recognized relation between a geographical area and the distinctive organoleptic characteristics of the wines produced in it. The overriding objective in terroir studies is therefore to provide scientific proof relating the properties of terroir components to wine quality and typicity. In scientific circles, the role of climate (macro-, meso- and micro-) on grape and wine characteristics is well documented and accepted as the most critical. Moreover, there has been increasing interest in recent years about new elements with possible importance in shaping wine terroir like berry/leaf/soil microbiology or even aromatic plants in proximity to the vineyard conferring flavors to the grapes. However, the actual effect of these factors is also dependent on complex interactions with plant material (variety/clone, rootstock, vine age) and with human factors.
The contribution of soil, although a fundamental component of terroir and extremely popular among wine enthusiasts, remains a much-debated issue among researchers. The role of geology is probably the one mostly associated by consumers with the notion of terroir with different parent rocks considered to give birth to different wine styles. However, the relationship between wine properties and the underlying parent material raises a lot of controversy especially regarding the actual existence of rock-derived flavors in the wine (e.g. minerality). As far as the actual soil properties are concerned, the effect of soil physical properties is generally regarded as the most significant (e.g sandy soils being associated with lighter wines while those on clay with colored and tannic ones) mostly through control of water availability which ultimately modifies berry ripening conditions either directly by triggering biosynthetic pathways, or indirectly by altering vigor and yield components. The role of soil chemistry seems to be weakly associated to wine sensory characteristic, although N, K, S and Ca, but also soil pH, are often considered important in the overall soil effect.
Recently, in the light of evidence provided by precision agriculture studies reporting a high variability of vineyard soils, the spatial scale should also be taken into consideration in the evaluation of the soil effects on wines. While it is accepted that soil effects become more significant than climate on a local level, it is not clear whether these micro-variations of vineyard soils are determining in the terroir effect. Moreover, as terroir is not a set of only natural factors, the magnitude of the contribution of human-related factors (irrigation, fertilization, soil management) to the soil effect still remains ambiguous. Lastly, a major shortcoming of the majority of works about soil effects on wine characteristics is the absence of connection with actual vine physiological processes since all soil effects on grape and wine chemistry and sensorial properties are ultimately mediated through vine responses.
This article attempts to breakdown the main soil attributes involved in the terroir effect to suggest an improved understanding about soil’s true contribution to wine sensory characteristics. It is proposed that soil parameters per se are not as significant determining factors in the terroir effect but rather their mutual interactions as well as with other natural and human factors included in the terroir concept. Consequently, similarly to bioclimatic indices, composite soil indices (i.e. soil depth, water holding capacity, fertility, temperature etc), incorporating multiple soil parameters, might provide a more accurate and quantifiable means to assess the relative weight of the soil component in the terroir effect.