Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 El viñedo en Lanzarote y el Archipiélago Canario

El viñedo en Lanzarote y el Archipiélago Canario

Abstract

La isla de Lanzarote, primera en ser ocupada en los albores del siglo XV, es la única del archipiélago, junto con Fuerteventura, que no produjo vino. Ocasionalmente hubo algún parral para el consumo de su uva, pero no fue hasta la erupción volcánica de 1730-1736 en que se posibilitó su cultivo.
La dieta mediterránea (pan, aceite, vino, frutas) fue impuesta desde un principio por los ocupantes europeos. Lanzarote producía y exportaba cereales, carne y queso de cabra, mientras que adquiría fuera los vinos, bien andaluces, canarios o madeirenses.
Así siguieron las cosas hasta la erupción volcánica de 1730. Durante casi siete años, la lava y las arenas volcánicas arruinaron las mejores zonas agrícolas de la isla, impidiendo el cultivo de los cereales tradicionales. Ante tanta desgracia se comenzó a observar que ahoyando la tierra, es decir, apartando las arenas volcánicas hasta llegar a la tierra cultivable, podían plantarse árboles frutales, incluso viñas.
En los cuarenta del siglo XVIII se va acelerando el proceso de plantación por los obstáculos legales que se impuso a los aguardientes foráneos, señaladamente catalanes y mallorquines. Ello hizo que los comerciantes tinerfeños a​quella isla dominaba el mercado del vino del archipiélago, además de ser la mayor productora- se interesaran por los incipientes caldos conejeros con la finalidad de convertirlos en aguardiente. A tal fin, instalaron en Arrecife sus destilerías llegando a traer el combustible desde Tenerife, pues esta nueva actividad dejó a los lanzaroteños sin leña para cocinar.
El impulso del viñedo, merced a la demanda tinerfeña aceleró su plantación, que resultaba muy fatigosa pues obligaba a ahoyar las arenas (lo que solucionaba en parte la escasez de agua) y a proteger la planta de los vientos, bien con el hoyo de arena si resultaba lo suficiente profundo, bien mediante la construcción de unas pequeñas paredes de piedra seca, obtenidas picando las rocas volcánicas.
George Glas, comerciante británico, profundo conocedor de la sociedad canaria del segundo tercio del siglo XVIII, ilustrado y llevado a prisión por la Inquisición, mercader de vinos, viajero incansable y que visitó varias veces Lanzarote, nos da cuenta del incipiente comienzo de la viña en nuestra isla. Según él, en la década de 1750 o inicios de 1760 se producía cierta cantidad de vino que casi en su totalidad se exportaba a Tenerife, una vez destilado.
En 1749, el Cabildo lanzaroteño ya adopta un acuerdo “sobre la preferencia de los vinos de esta isla y compra de pipas de las que vienen de fuera”.
En 1776, aparece una obra de autor desconocido, titulada “El Compendio”, que nos da una idea pormenorizada del estado de la agricultura en la isla, cuarenta años después de la erupción del Timanfaya. Destaca que el viñedo se multiplica y que el vino se destinaba en su mayor parte para la elaboración de aguardientes que los tinerfeños realizaban en Arrecife, impulsando su desarrollo en detrimento de la Villa de Teguise, a la que acabó por arrebatar la capitalidad de la isla.
A mediados del XVIII, los malvasías canarios estaban casi desaparecidos, porque se elaboraban nuevos vinos tipo madeira (y que pasaban por tales en el mercado internacional), muy alcohólicos y con bastante color, que se obtenía utilizando parte de uva negra. En Lanzarote primaban las listanes blancas, como en el resto del archipiélago.
En el comienzo del siglo XIX, el vino lanzaroteño se consume cada vez más como vino, disminuyendo por tanto la importancia de los destilados. Este proceso se ve acelerado por la decadencia de los vinos canarios a partir de 1818, que llevó en 1853 a su casi exterminio, merced a unos ataques de oidio mal combatidos. La importancia de la vinificación en Lanzarote desde los comienzos del XIX, hizo que se sustituyeran buena parte de los Listanes por cepas de Malvasía, algo menos productiva pero de mayor calidad. En esta época la crisis afectó a los vinos comunes, con lo cual hasta finales del XIX, consecuencia de la filoxera en Francia, no se produce una recuperación de los vinos canarios.
En la exposición vitícola nacional de 1877, celebrada en Madrid como consecuencia del boom vitivinícola que se produjo como consecuencia del ataque de filoxera en Francia, se elaboró un informe sobre plantaciones, varietales, tipos de vino, etc.
De Lanzarote destaca como variedad la Malvasía, plantada en la isla a lo largo del XIX, probablemente de Sitges, varietal y vino fuertemente cotizados en la península desde comienzos de dicho siglo. En los comienzos de la viña lanzaroteña se plantaron los listanes, más productivos, ya que se trataba de elaborar aguardientes, aunque posteriormente fue la Malvasía la que se plantó de modo mayoritario cuando se trataba de exportar vinos a las islas mayores.
El siglo XX puede resumirse en lo ocurrido en los últimos años. En los años 60-70 se produce un abandono de gran parte del viñedo, principalmente de grandes propietarios debido al inicio del ciclo turístico. Esto supone también el cierre de muchas bodegas.
En la década de los 80, se inicia el cambio de los métodos de vinificación, introduciendo nuevas tecnologías que acercan la producción a los gustos del consumidor.

DOI:

Publication date: February 24, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2000 

Type: Article

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2000

Citation

Related articles…

Legacy of land-cover changes on soil erosion and microbiology in Burgundian vineyards

Soils in vineyards are recognized as complex agrosystems whose characteristics reflect complex interactions between natural factors (lithology, climate, slope, biodiversity) and human activities. To date, most of the unknown lies in an incomplete understanding of soil ecosystems, and specifically in the microbial biodiversity even though soil microbiota is involved in many key functions, such as nutrient cycling and carbon sequestration. Soil biological properties are indicative of soil quality. Therefore, understanding how soil communities are related to soil ecosystem functioning is becoming an essential issue for soil strategy conservation. Here, we propose to assess the importance of land-cover history on the present-day microbiological and physico-chemical properties. The studied area was selected in the Burgundian vineyards (Pernand-Vergelesses, Burgundy, France) where land occupation has been reconstructed over the last 40 years. Soil samples were collected in five areas reflecting various land cover history (forest, vineyards, shifting from forest to vineyards). For each area, physico-chemical parameters (pH, C, N, P, grain size) were measured and DNA was extracted to characterize the abundance and diversity of microbial communities. The obtained results show significant differences in the five areas suggesting that present-day microbial molecular biomass and bacterial taxonomic is partly inherited from past land occupation. Over longer period of time, such study of land-uses legacies may help to better assess ecosystem recovery and the impact of management practices for a better soil quality and vineyards sustainability.

Terroir traceability in grapes, musts and wine: results of research on Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc grape varieties in northern Italy

In the study of terroir, a separate analysis of its many component factors can be of great help in accurately identifying a vineyard’s natural elements that impact wine quality and typicity. This research used a dedicated pluri-disciplinary approach to investigate the ecological characteristics, including geology and geographical features, of 14 vineyards that produce Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc cultivars in the alpine Alto Adige DOC wine region. Both the geopedological method using Vineyards Geological Identity (VGI) and the new Solar Radiaton Identity (SRI) topoclimatic classification method were used to provide analytical measurements and qualitative/quantitative characterisations. In addition, wide-ranging targeted and untargeted oenological and chemical analyses were carried out on grapes, musts and wines to correlate the soils’ geomineral and physical conditions with the biochemical properties of their fruits and wines. The research identified strong correlations between vineyard geo-identity and wine biofingerprint, confirming a mineral traceability of strontium rubidium ratio and some minerals distinctive to the local geology, such as K, Ca, Ag, Ba and Mn.  The study also discovered that particular geomineral and physical soil conditions of the studied vineyards are related to the different amount of amino acids, primary varietal aromas and polyphenols found in grapes, musts and wines. The research confirmed that winemaking technologies support oenological quality, although in some cases, human practices can overpower certain characteristic elements in wine, erasing the typical imprint left by the vineyards’ natural terroir, which becomes less traceable. Terroir abiotic ecological factors and vineyard identity can be classified in detail using the new VGI and SRI analysis methods to discover interrelationships between geo-pedological and topoclimatic conditions that impact wine quality. These methods are also helpful in identifying which ecological elements are exclusive to a particular vineyard or wine sub-region.

Impact of climate variability and change on grape yield in Italy

Viticulture is entangled with weather and climate. Therefore, areas currently suitable for grape production can be challenged by climate change. Winegrowers in Italy already experiences the effect of climate change, especially in the form of warmer growing season, more frequent drought periods, and increased frequency of weather extremes.
The aim of this study is to investigate the impact of climate variability and change on grape yield in Italy to provide winegrowers the information needed to make their business more sustainable and resilient to climate change. We computed a specific range of bioclimatic indices, selected by the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV), and correlated them to grape yield data. We have worked in collaboration with some wine consortiums in northern and central Italy, which provided grape yield data for our analysis.
Using climate variables from the E-OBS dataset we investigate how the bioclimatic indices changed in the past, and the impact of this change on grape productivity in the study areas. The climate impact on productivity is also investigated by using high-resolution convection-permitting models (CPMs – 2.2 horizontal resolution), with the purpose of estimating productivity in future emission scenarios. The CPMs are likely the best available option for this kind of impact studies since they allow a better representation of small-scale processes and features, explicitly resolve deep convection, and show an improved representation of extremes. In our study, we also compare CPMs with regional climate models (RCMs – 12 km horizontal resolution) to assess the added value of high-resolution models for impact studies. Further development of our study will lead to assessing the future suitability for vine cultivation and could lead to the construction of a statistical model for future projection of grape yield.

VINIoT – Precision viticulture service

The project VINIoT pursues the creation of a new technological vineyard monitoring service, which will allow companies in the wine sector in the SUDOE space to monitor plantations in real time and remotely at various levels of precision. The system is based on spectral images and an IoT architecture that allows assessing parameters of interest viticulture and the collection of data at a precise scale (level of grape, plant, plot or vineyard) will be designed. In France, three subjects were specifically developed: evaluation of maturity, of water stress, and detection of flavescence dorée. For the evaluation of maturity, it has been decided first to work at the berry scale in the laboratory, then at the bunch scale and finally in the vineyard. The acquisition of the spectral hyperstal image as well as the reference analyzes to measure the maturity, were carried out in the laboratory after harvesting the berries in a maturity monitoring context. This work focuses on a case study to predict sugar content of three different grape varieties: Syrah, Fer Servadou and Mauzac. A robust method called Roboost-PLSR, developed in the framework of this work (Courand et al., 2022), to improve prediction model performance was applied on spectra after the acquirement of hyperspectral images. Regarding the evaluation of water stress, to work with a significant variability in terms of water status, it has been worked first with potted plants under 2 different water regimes. The facilities have allowed the supervision of irrigation and micro-climatic conditions. The regression models on agronomic variables (stomatal conductance, water potential, …) are studied. To detect flavescence dorée, the experimental plan has consisted of work at leaf scale in the laboratory first, and then in the field. To detect the disease from hyper-spectral imaging, a combination of multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares (MCR-ALS) and factorial discriminant analysis (FDA) was proposed. This strategy proved the potential towards the discrimination of healthy and infected leaves by flavescence dorée based on the use of hyperspectral images (Mas Garcia et al., 2021).

Deconstructing the soil component of terroir: from controversy to consensus

Wine terroir describes the collectively recognized relation between a geographical area and the distinctive organoleptic characteristics of the wines produced in it. The overriding objective in terroir studies is therefore to provide scientific proof relating the properties of terroir components to wine quality and typicity. In scientific circles, the role of climate (macro-, meso- and micro-) on grape and wine characteristics is well documented and accepted as the most critical. Moreover, there has been increasing interest in recent years about new elements with possible importance in shaping wine terroir like berry/leaf/soil microbiology or even aromatic plants in proximity to the vineyard conferring flavors to the grapes. However, the actual effect of these factors is also dependent on complex interactions with plant material (variety/clone, rootstock, vine age) and with human factors.
The contribution of soil, although a fundamental component of terroir and extremely popular among wine enthusiasts, remains a much-debated issue among researchers. The role of geology is probably the one mostly associated by consumers with the notion of terroir with different parent rocks considered to give birth to different wine styles. However, the relationship between wine properties and the underlying parent material raises a lot of controversy especially regarding the actual existence of rock-derived flavors in the wine (e.g. minerality). As far as the actual soil properties are concerned, the effect of soil physical properties is generally regarded as the most significant (e.g sandy soils being associated with lighter wines while those on clay with colored and tannic ones) mostly through control of water availability which ultimately modifies berry ripening conditions either directly by triggering biosynthetic pathways, or indirectly by altering vigor and yield components. The role of soil chemistry seems to be weakly associated to wine sensory characteristic, although N, K, S and Ca, but also soil pH, are often considered important in the overall soil effect.
Recently, in the light of evidence provided by precision agriculture studies reporting a high variability of vineyard soils, the spatial scale should also be taken into consideration in the evaluation of the soil effects on wines. While it is accepted that soil effects become more significant than climate on a local level, it is not clear whether these micro-variations of vineyard soils are determining in the terroir effect. Moreover, as terroir is not a set of only natural factors, the magnitude of the contribution of human-related factors (irrigation, fertilization, soil management) to the soil effect still remains ambiguous. Lastly, a major shortcoming of the majority of works about soil effects on wine characteristics is the absence of connection with actual vine physiological processes since all soil effects on grape and wine chemistry and sensorial properties are ultimately mediated through vine responses.
This article attempts to breakdown the main soil attributes involved in the terroir effect to suggest an improved understanding about soil’s true contribution to wine sensory characteristics. It is proposed that soil parameters per se are not as significant determining factors in the terroir effect but rather their mutual interactions as well as with other natural and human factors included in the terroir concept. Consequently, similarly to bioclimatic indices, composite soil indices (i.e. soil depth, water holding capacity, fertility, temperature etc), incorporating multiple soil parameters, might provide a more accurate and quantifiable means to assess the relative weight of the soil component in the terroir effect.