Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Caractérisation des terroirs viticoles champenois

Caractérisation des terroirs viticoles champenois

Abstract

Le vignoble champenois s’étend sur 35 300 ha en Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée dont 30 000 sont en production. Il couvre principalement 3 départements: par ordre d’importance, la Marne (68 % de la superficie en appellation), l’Aube (22 %) et l’Aisne (10 %), et de manière plus anecdotique la Haute Marne et la Seine et Mame. C’est un vignoble jeune (pour plus de la moitié de la superficie, les viticulteurs n’ont l’expérience que d’une seule génération de vignes), et morcelé (plus de la moitié des exploitations s’étendent sur moins de 1 ha; la taille moyenne d’une parcelle cadastrale est de 12 ares). En 1990, le Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne (CIVC) a lancé une opération de zonage du vignoble champenois à l’échelle de 1/25 000ème (MONCOMBLE et PANIGAI, 1990). Cet organisme, qui assure à la fois des missions de recherche et de développement en matière viticole en Champagne, s’est alors trouvé confronté à 2 types de problèmes concernant son réseau expérimental actuel:

– il est difficile d’extrapoler les données issues d’une parcelle expérimentale à une zone plus large pour établir des cartes thématiques sur l’ensemble du vignoble. Pour pouvoir extrapoler ces résultats ponctuels, il faudrait définir la parcelle expérimentale par des caractéristiques qu’il est possible de spatialiser, par exemple des unités de terroir.
– il est parfois difficile de répondre précisément par manque de référence à des problèmes que les viticulteurs soumettent au CIVC. Les réponses pourraient être affinées s’il était possible de rattacher avec un minimum de données facilement accessibles (sondages à la tarière, mesure de la pente et de l’orientation, etc.) la parcelle du viticulteur qui pose problème à un site expérimental où les informations sont plus exhaustives.

L’objectif est donc de :
– définir des unités de terroir homogène de manière objective et reproductible,
– choisir, au sein de ces unités, des sites représentatifs où il serait possible d’implanter des observatoires de la vigne. Ces observatoires permettront de décrire et de mieux comprendre le fonctionnement de la vigne, voire de caractériser le type de vin pour une année donnée, en relation avec le terroir.
La mise en place de ce réseau impliquera une reconfiguration du réseau expérimental actuel du CIVC. L’objectif n’est pas de multiplier les parcelles expérimentales, ce qui deviendrait ingérable, mais de concentrer sur une trentaine de sites dispersés dans tout le vignoble un maximum de mesures et d’analyses en fonction des conditions de milieu naturel bien définies. Cela n’empêchera pas de conserver quelques sites expérimentaux plus “légers”, pour mieux comprendre la répartition spatiale de certains phénomènes. L’objectif est d’aboutir à 3 niveaux d’analyse:
– les observatoires qui représenteront le niveau le plus fin, mais dont le nombre sera limité à une trentaine de sites. Ce réseau expérimental sera une plate-forme commune et normalisée d’expérimentation à long terme (10 à 15 ans) et deviendra un véritable outil d’aide à la gestion appliquée des vignes. On peut estimer qu’en une quinzaine d’années, le modèle entre la plante et son environnement, selon un type d’année climatique, sera suffisamment stable et robuste pour être utilisable et extrapolable.
– un réseau d’expérimentation “plus léger” concernant certaines thématiques. Comme précédemment, ce réseau sera normalisé. On cherche en effet à éviter les problèmes d’interprétation des résultats à cause de données manquantes.
– des enquêtes réalisées auprès des viticulteurs qui permettent d’avoir de manière rapide une information spatiale sur l’ensemble du vignoble mais dont l’exploitation est parfois difficile du fait d’un manque de référentiel commun.
Les étapes de notre travail (Doledec, 1995) ont été :
– définir l’objet d’étude, “le terroir”, et informatiser les données disponibles. Le terroir est défini comme un ensemble de facteurs du milieu naturel en interaction (sol, sous-sol, relief). Compte tenu de l’hétérogénéité des parcelles (la superficie moyenne d’une parcelle cadastrale est de 12 ares), il est impossible de prendre en compte l’impact de l’homme, notamment par ses techniques culturales pour l’ensemble du vignoble champenois.
– estimer la qualité du jeu de données. Les données issues de la carte des sols font plus spécialement l’objet d’une étude de la justesse des notations utilisées par les techniciens. La comparaison entre la typologie de solums effectuées par le pédologue et celle issue d’une classification statistique permet d’affiner la carte des sols.
– déterminer les composantes principales des terroirs. Le choix de ces composantes repose sur la disponibilité de données informatisables et sur la connaissance d’avis d’experts mettant en évidence la relation entre des paramètres du milieu naturel et le comportement de la vigne.
– croiser les modalités des composantes principales des terroirs, pour aboutir à une carte des terroirs à 1/25000ème. Cette carte a été comparée à un zonage de la précocité de la vigne réalisé par des viticulteurs sur une commune.
– choisir, d’après la carte des terroirs obtenue, des sites potentiels pour l’implantation d’observatoires de la vigne.

DOI:

Publication date: March 25, 2022

Type: Poster

Issue: Terroir 1996

Authors

ANNE FRANCE DOLEDEC (1), M.C. GIRARD (2), D. MONCOMBLE (1), L. PANIGAI (1), M.C. VIRION (1)

(1) Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne, 5, rue Henri Martin, 51204 Epemay
(2) Institut National Agronomique, 78850 Thivervai Grignon

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 1996

Citation

Related articles…

Organic recycled mulches in sustainable viticulture: assessment of spontaneous plants communities and weed coverage

In recent years, developing more efficient and sustainable viticulture management has been essential due to the impact of climate change in semiarid regions. For this reason, the use of recycled organic mulching (ROM) in the vineyard has become an interesting strategy to cope with water stress, isolated soil from extreme temperatures and improving soil humidity, control the presence of weeds and therefore reduce the inputs of herbicides and improve soil fertility. This work aimed to analyse the effect of three different organic mulches [straw (S), grape pruning debris (GPD) and spent mushroom compost (SMC)] and two traditional soil management techniques [herbicide (H) and interrow (IN)] on weed coverage and the spontaneous plant communities’ presence. Data sampling was collected throughout the vine vegetative cycle of 2021 in La Rioja, Spain. The different soil management techniques had a clear effect on weed coverage and his development during the vine vegetative cycle. SMC and H were the treatments with the highest and the lowest coverage percentage, respectively. IN had a delayed weed emergence at the beginning of the vine vegetative cycle, but finally it reached maximum values nearby SMC. GPD and S had similar effects on weed emergence, reaching 25-30% of the maximum coverage values. A total of 29 herbaceous species were identified during the vegetative cycle, some of them very isolated and occasional. Principal component analysis (PCAs) showed a good association between spontaneous species and treatments, furthermore, specific species-treatment associations were found. Moreover, three clear groups of herbaceous communities were identified by cluster analysis. This study provides interesting information about the effect of different alternative soil management on herbaceous plant coverage and weed species communities which could contribute to making more sustainable viticulture.

Extreme canopy management for vineyard adaptation to climate change: is it a good idea?

Climate change constitutes an enormous challenge for humankind and for all human activities, viticulture not being an exception. Long-term strategic changes are probably needed the most, but growers also need to deal with short-term changes: summers that are getting progressively warmer, earlier harvest dates and higher pH in musts and wines. In the last 10-15 years, a relevant corpus of research is being developed worldwide in order to evaluate to which extent extreme canopy management operations, aimed at reducing leaf area and, thus, limiting the source to sink ratio, could be useful to delay ripening. Although extreme canopy management can result in relevant delays in harvest dates, longer term studies, as well as detailed analysis of their implications on carbohydrate reserves, bud fertility and future yield are desirable before these practices can be recommended.

Deconstructing the soil component of terroir: from controversy to consensus

Wine terroir describes the collectively recognized relation between a geographical area and the distinctive organoleptic characteristics of the wines produced in it. The overriding objective in terroir studies is therefore to provide scientific proof relating the properties of terroir components to wine quality and typicity. In scientific circles, the role of climate (macro-, meso- and micro-) on grape and wine characteristics is well documented and accepted as the most critical. Moreover, there has been increasing interest in recent years about new elements with possible importance in shaping wine terroir like berry/leaf/soil microbiology or even aromatic plants in proximity to the vineyard conferring flavors to the grapes. However, the actual effect of these factors is also dependent on complex interactions with plant material (variety/clone, rootstock, vine age) and with human factors.
The contribution of soil, although a fundamental component of terroir and extremely popular among wine enthusiasts, remains a much-debated issue among researchers. The role of geology is probably the one mostly associated by consumers with the notion of terroir with different parent rocks considered to give birth to different wine styles. However, the relationship between wine properties and the underlying parent material raises a lot of controversy especially regarding the actual existence of rock-derived flavors in the wine (e.g. minerality). As far as the actual soil properties are concerned, the effect of soil physical properties is generally regarded as the most significant (e.g sandy soils being associated with lighter wines while those on clay with colored and tannic ones) mostly through control of water availability which ultimately modifies berry ripening conditions either directly by triggering biosynthetic pathways, or indirectly by altering vigor and yield components. The role of soil chemistry seems to be weakly associated to wine sensory characteristic, although N, K, S and Ca, but also soil pH, are often considered important in the overall soil effect.
Recently, in the light of evidence provided by precision agriculture studies reporting a high variability of vineyard soils, the spatial scale should also be taken into consideration in the evaluation of the soil effects on wines. While it is accepted that soil effects become more significant than climate on a local level, it is not clear whether these micro-variations of vineyard soils are determining in the terroir effect. Moreover, as terroir is not a set of only natural factors, the magnitude of the contribution of human-related factors (irrigation, fertilization, soil management) to the soil effect still remains ambiguous. Lastly, a major shortcoming of the majority of works about soil effects on wine characteristics is the absence of connection with actual vine physiological processes since all soil effects on grape and wine chemistry and sensorial properties are ultimately mediated through vine responses.
This article attempts to breakdown the main soil attributes involved in the terroir effect to suggest an improved understanding about soil’s true contribution to wine sensory characteristics. It is proposed that soil parameters per se are not as significant determining factors in the terroir effect but rather their mutual interactions as well as with other natural and human factors included in the terroir concept. Consequently, similarly to bioclimatic indices, composite soil indices (i.e. soil depth, water holding capacity, fertility, temperature etc), incorporating multiple soil parameters, might provide a more accurate and quantifiable means to assess the relative weight of the soil component in the terroir effect.

From a local to an international scale: sensory benchmarking of PDO wines. Quincy and Reuilly PDO wines (Sauvignon blanc) as a case study (France)

In a collective marketing strategy, the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) can be used as a quality indicator. To highlight terroir specificities, it is useful to know how the wines are positioned on the local, national or international market from a sensory point of view. This is especially true for a comparison of varietal wines (e.g. Sauvignon blanc). We focus on the case of two closed Loire Valley PDO (France): Quincy and Reuilly. Three distinct tastings were organized. Firstly, at the local level comparing the 2 PDO (11 and 9 wines, 17 professional assessors); secondly at a regional level adding 3 closed PDO: Menetou-Salon, Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé (3 wines per PDO, 16 assessors) and thirdly at an international level comparing these 5 PDO with Sauvignon Blanc wines coming from South Africa, New Zealand and Chile (1 to 3 wines per PDO, 19 assessors). All the wines were from the 2019 vintage and were considered to have a traditional elaboration process without contact with oak. A sensory descriptive analysis was performed using an aroma wheel allowing to combine a Check-All-That-Apply methodology, often used in sensory benchmarking, with a hierarchical structuration of the attributes. The aim is to facilitate data acquisition in a professional context without common training, to consider the hierarchical relationships among the attributes during the data analysis and to be able to characterize wines with a large range of sensorial variability. We use univariate, multivariate and clustering analyses. Similarities and differences between Quincy and Reuilly PDO wines and other Sauvignon blanc wines were identified. Specific attributes can distinguish the two PDO and different proximities exist with other local PDO, while clear differences were observed compared to international wines. Our study contributes to propose and discuss a method to do a wine sensory benchmarking highlighting sensory specificities linked to origin.

Understanding graft union formation by using metabolomic and transcriptomic approaches during the first days after grafting in grapevine

Since the arrival of Phyloxera (Daktulosphaira vitifolia) in Europe at the end of the 19th century, grafting has become essential to cultivate Vitis vinifera. Today, grafting provides not only resistance to this aphid, but it used to adapt the cultivars according to the type of soil, environment, or grape production requirements by using a panel of rootstocks. As part of vineyard decline, it is often mentioned the importance of producing quality grafted grapevine to improve vineyard longevity, but, to our knowledge, no study has been able to demonstrate that grafting has a role in this context. However, some scion/rootstock combinations are considered as incompatible due to poor graft union formation and subsequently high plant mortality soon after grafting. In a context of climate change where the creation of new cultivars and rootstocks is at the centre of research, the ability of new cultivars to be grafted is therefore essential. The early identification of graft incompatibility could allow the selection of non-viable plants before planting and would have a beneficial impact on research and development in the nursery sector. For this reason, our studies have focused on the identification of metabolic and transcriptomic markers of poor grafting success during the first days/week after grafting; we have identified some correlations between some specialized metabolites, especially stilbenes, and grafting success, as well as an accumulation of some amino acids in the incompatible combination. The study of the metabolome and the transcriptome allowed us to understand and characterise the processes involved during graft union formation.