Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Observatoire Grenache en vallée du Rhône : démarche et premiers résultats après une année d’étude

Observatoire Grenache en vallée du Rhône : démarche et premiers résultats après une année d’étude

Abstract

Face à l’enjeu d’affirmer et de mieux comprendre la spécificité des vins en relation avec leur origine, la notion de « terroir », avec la richesse de sens et la diversité des perspectives qui l’éclairent, se révèle la clef de voûte de la production et de la valorisation de vins personnalisés et typiques. Asseoir la connaissance des principaux terroirs de la Vallée du Rhône sur des bases autres que celles, jusqu’alors essentiellement empiriques, invoquées dans la seconde grande région française productrice de vins d’AOC, constitue un projet conforme à l’intérêt voué à cet enjeu d’actualité. En effet, sous un angle technologique, le terroir viticole, considéré surtout comme « l’ensemble des facteurs du milieu naturel que le viticulteur ne peut ou ne pourra modifier aisément » (Laville, 1990), a déjà fait l’objet de nombreuses démarches pour la caractérisation de ses potentialités. Parmi les travaux entrepris, les approches « multicritères » cherchent à mettre en évidence les facteurs naturels du terroir les plus objectifs possibles en relation avec leurs effets mesurables sur les vins. Elles s’affinent généralement en fonction de données de « réponse » du terroir sous forme de critères doublement analytiques et sensoriels (Falcetti, Scienza, 1991).

L’une des méthodologies les plus complètes, celle dite de « caractérisation intégrée » et fondée sur la notion de séquence écogéopédologique (Morlat et al., 1984 ; Morlat, 1989), a été mise en oeuvre dans les vignobles d’Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée de la Moyenne Vallée de la Loire ; elle a abouti à la définition du concept d’Unité Naturelle de Terroir de Base (Riou et al., 1995). Reprise en Alsace (Lebon et al., 1993), la méthodologie de caractérisation intégrée se montre transposable. La multiplicité des données requises lors de l’initiation d’une telle approche requiert cependant un dispositif expérimental lourd et de longue haleine. Ainsi, la Vallée du Rhône se trouve actuellement le théâtre d’une double initiation de caractérisations multicritères des terroirs, appliquées aux vins rouges issus respectivement des cépages Syrah et Grenache.

En particulier, pour le cépage Grenache, majoritaire dans les vins de la partie méridionale, on dispose d’ores et déjà des observations de la campagne 1995, période qui correspond à la mise en place d’un dispositif de caractérisation multicritères. Pour le moment, il s’agit d’abord de mettre en évidence des différences de comportements de la vigne associées à des typologies de vins. Ensuite, dans la mesure où la jeunesse du dispositif le permet, la démarche vise à montrer que les typologies décrites s’édifient sur la base de la distinction de terroirs, uniques et véritables pourvoyeurs de spécificité, dans un réseau d’observations où l’on a veillé à maîtriser l’ensemble des autres facteurs de variabilité – système de conduite, porte-greffe, clones, itinéraires techniques, etc…

DOI:

Publication date: March 25, 2022

Issue: Terroir 1996

Type : Poster

Authors

E. VAUDOUR, L.M. BREMOND, L. LURTON

Institut rhodanien
2260, route du grés, 84100 Orange, France

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 1996

Citation

Related articles…

Impact of yeast derivatives to increase the phenolic maturity and aroma intensity of wine

Using viticultural and enological techniques to increase aromatics in white wine is a prized yet challenging technique for commercial wine producers. Equally difficult are challenges encountered in hastening phenolic maturity and thereby increasing color intensity in red wines. The ability to alter organoleptic and visual properties of wines plays a decisive role in vintages in which grapes are not able to reach full maturity, which is seen increasingly more often as a result of climate change. A new, yeast-based product on the viticultural market may give the opportunity to increase sensory properties of finished wines. Manufacturer packaging claims these yeast derivatives intensify wine aromas of white grape varieties, as well as improve phenolic ripeness of red varieties, but the effects of this application have been little researched until now. The current study applied the yeast derivative, according to the manufacture’s instructions, to the leaves of both neutral and aromatic white wine varieties, as well as on structured red wine varieties. Chemical parameters and volatile aromatics were analyzed in grape musts and finished wines, and all wines were subjected to sensory analysis by a tasting panel. Collective results of all analyses showed that the application of the yeast derivative in the vineyard showed no effect across all varieties examined, and did not intensify white wine aromatics, nor improve phenolic ripeness and color intensity in red wine.

The plantation frame as a measure of adaptation to climate change

The mechanization of vineyard work originally led to a reduction in planting densities due to the lack of machinery adapted to the vineyard. The current availability of specific machinery makes it possible to establish higher planting densities. In this work, three planting densities (1.40×0.80 m, 1.80×1 m and 2.20×1.20 m, corresponding to 8928, 5555 and 3787 plants/ha respectively) were studied with four varieties autochthonous of Galicia (northwestern Spain): Albariño and Treixadura (white), Sousón and Mencía (red). The vines were trained in a vertical shoot positioning system using a single Royat cordon, and pruned to spurs with two buds each. Agronomic data (yield, pruning wood weight, Ravaz index) and oenological data in must were collected. The higher planting density (1.40×0.80 m) had no significant effect on grape yield per vine in white varieties, although production per hectare was much higher due to the greater number of plants. In red varieties, this planting density resulted in a significantly lower production per vine, compensated by the greater number of plants. In addition, it significantly reduced the Brix degree in the must of the Albariño, Treixadura and Sousón varieties, and increased the total acidity in the latter two and Mencía. It also caused an increase in extractable and total anthocyanins and IPT in red grapes. The effects of high planting density on grapes are of great interest for the adaptation of varieties in the context of climate change. In the future, it could be advisable to modify the limits imposed by the appellations of origin on the planting density of these varieties in order to obtain more balanced wines.

Is wine terroir a valid concept under a changing climate?

The OIV[i] defines terroir as a concept referring to an area in which collective knowledge of the interactions between the physical and biological environment (soil, topography, climate, landscape characteristics and biodiversity features) and vitivinicultural practices develops, providing distinctive wine characteristics. Those are perceptible in the taste of wine, which drives consumer preference and, therefore, wine’s value in the marketplace. Geographical indications (GI) are recognized regulatory constructs formalizing and protecting the nexus between wine taste and the terroir generating it. Despite considering updates, GIs do not consider the nexus as a dynamic one and do not anticipate change, namely of climate. Being climate a fundamental feature of terroir, it strongly impacts wine characteristics, such as taste. According to IPCC[ii], many widespread, rapid and unprecedented changes of climate occurred, some being irreversible over hundreds to thousands of years. Climatic shifts and atmospheric-driven extreme events have been widely reported worldwide. Recent climatic trends are projected to strengthen in upcoming decades, whereas extremes are expected to increase in frequency and intensity, forcing wines away from GI definitions. Geographical shifts of viticultural suitability are projected, often moving into regions and countries different from current ones. Some authors propose adaptation in viticulture, winemaking and product innovation. We show evidence of climate changing wine characteristics in the Douro valley, home of 270-year-old Port GI. We discuss herein resist or adapt stances for when climate changes the nexus between terroir and wine characteristics. Using the MED-GOLD[iii] dashboard, a tool allowing for easy visual navigation of past and future climates, we demonstrate how policymakers can identify future moments, throughout the 21st century under different emission scenarios, when GI specifications will likely need updates (e.g., boundaries, varieties) to reduce climate-change impacts.

Measurement of redox potential as a new analytical winegrowing tool

Excell laboratory has initiated the development of an analytical method based on electrochemistry to evaluate the ability of wines to undergo or resist to oxidative phenomena. Electrochemistry is a powerful tool to probe reactions involving electron transfers and offers possibility of real-time measurements. In that context, the laboratory has implemented electrochemical analysis to assess oxidation state of different wine matrices but also in order to evaluate oxidative or reduced character of leaf and soil. Initially, our laboratory focused on dosage of compounds involved in responses of plant stresses and we were also interested in microbiological activity of soils. These analyses were compared with the measurement of redox potential (Eh) and pH which are two fundamental variables involved in the modulation of plant metabolism. Indeed, the variation of redox states of the plant reflects its biological activity but also its capacity to absorb nutriments. The Eh-pH conditions mainly determine metabolic processes involved in soil and leaf and our goal is to determine if this combined analytical approach will be sufficiently precise to detect biological evolutions (plant health, parasitic attack…).

Short-term relationships between climate and grapevine trunk diseases in southern French vineyards

[lwp_divi_breadcrumbs home_text="IVES" use_before_icon="on" before_icon="||divi||400" module_id="publication-ariane" _builder_version="4.19.4" _module_preset="default" module_text_align="center" module_font_size="16px" text_orientation="center"...