Prise en compte de la notion de terroir dans les AOC en France : Aspects Culturels

The quality of wine is difficult to define. This is most certainly accredited to everyone´s different perception of quality. Some of the indicators of high-quality wines are complexity, balance, color and intensity. Color is one of the most crucial attributes of quality, not only for the obvious implications for their perception but also because they are indicators of other aspects related to its aroma and taste. Phenolic compounds are the main responsible for wine color, being anthocyanin and tannins the most determinant compounds in red wines. In addition to color, wine aroma is another important attribute linked with quality and consumer preferences.

The main phenological stages (budburst, flowering, veraison, and ripeness) and the fruit composition of 34 Spanish minority varieties were studied to determine their cultivation potential and help winegrowers adapt their production systems to climate change conditions. In total, 4 control cultivars, and 30 minority varieties from central Spain were studied during a period of 3 campaigns, in the ampelographic collection “El Encín”, in Alcalá de Henares, Madrid. Agronomic and oenological characteristics such as yield, and total soluble solids concentration have been monitored.

In a scenario of changing climate conditions, grapevine is significantly affected at multiple levels. Advancements in phenology and berry ripening, however, are the major dynamics of the generalized increase in average temperature and evaporative demand, negatively affecting berry quality and productivity. The aim of this work was to unravel the underlying mechanisms of bunch-zone auxin application (NAA; 1-Naphthaleneacetic acid) and source-limiting canopy management approaches in delaying berry ripening. In randomized block design experiments, control vines were compared to vines treated with NAA, subjected to apical-to-bunch defoliation or antitranspirant application (n=10-to-42 plants per treatment).

This study focuses on investigating the effects of climate change on the plant physiology and berries of Vitis vinifera cv “Monastrell” in a commercial vineyard managed organically in Southeastern Spain (Jumilla, Murcia). For this purpose, open top chambers and rainout shelters were employed to simulate warming (~2-7 ºC, W) and rainfall reduction (~30%, RR) respectively. Additionally, a combination of both treatments (W+RR) was employed. Vines without either top chambers or rainout shelters were considered as control (C). The experiment was established in February of 2023. Predawn leaf water potential (measured using a pressure chamber), stomatal conductance (assessed with a porometer at mid-morning) and leaf chlorophyll and flavonoid content (measured using the Dualex® leaf clip sensor) were analyzed at veraison (5 months after the installation of structures).

Climate influence on grapevine physiology is prevalent and this influence is only expected to increase with climate change. Although governed by a general determinism, climate influence on grapevine physiology may present variations according to the terroir. In addition, these site-specific differences are likely to be enhanced when climate influence is studied using farm data. Indeed, farm data integrate additional sources of variation such as a varying representativity of the conditions actually experienced in the field. Nevertheless, there is a real challenge in valuing farm data to enable grape growers to understand their own terroir and consequently adapt their practices to the local conditions. In such a context, this article proposes a framework to site-specifically study climate influence on grapevine physiology using farm data. It focuses on improving the analysis of time series of weather data. The analytical framework includes the synchronization of time series using site-specific thermal indices computed with an original method called Extended Growing Degree Days (eGDD). Synchronized time series are then analyzed using a Bayesian functional Linear regression with Sparse Steps functions (BLiSS) in order to detect site-specific periods of strong climate influence on yield development. The article focuses on temperature and rain influence on grape yield development as a case study. It uses data from three commercial vineyards respectively situated in the Bordeaux region (France), California (USA) and Israel. For all vineyards, common periods of climate influence on yield development were found. They corresponded to already known periods, for example around veraison of the year before harvest. However, the periods differed in their precise timing (e.g. before, around or after veraison), duration and correlation direction with yield. Other periods were found for only one or two vineyards and/or were not referred to in literature, for example during the winter before harvest.