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IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Climat-roche-sol-fromage. Cartographie fonctionnelle du terroir. Exemple de l’A.O.C. Comté

Climat-roche-sol-fromage. Cartographie fonctionnelle du terroir. Exemple de l’A.O.C. Comté

Abstract

La place prépondérante que prend le Massif Jurassien en Franche-Comté confère à la région un caractère montagneux qui a orienté l’agriculture vers l’élevage laitier. Cette vocation pastorale marquée et de rudes conditions climatiques sont à l’origine de la production, attestée depuis l’Antiquité, d’un fromage de réserve pour la longue période hivernale. Cette tradition fromagère, liée à des prairies naturelles, a perduré jusqu’à nos jours. La qualité et la spécificité du produit actuel, le fromage de Comté, ont été reconnues dès 1952 par l’attribution d’un label et dès 1958, par la reconnaissance d’un périmètre d’appellation d’origine contrôlée, l’A.O.C. Comté (fig. 1). Le Comté est fabriqué à partir d’un cahier des charges très strict garantissant son caractère naturel et sa typicité. Par opposition à d’autres fromages du même type à pâte pressée cuite, l’utilisation de lait cru est garante d’une richesse aromatique marquée à l’origine d’une palette gustative variée. L’existence de fromages au goût spécifique n’est pas nouvelle : une enquête faisant appel à la mémoire collective de la filière Comté a permis de dégager des zones de cru potentiel (Bloc, 1991). Cette variabilité est un atout à la condition que la reconnaissance d’entités de goût spatialisées (crus) puisse être validée, c’est à dire vérifiée et rattachée à une identité naturelle ou terroir, depuis longtemps imposée en viticulture (Morlat, 1995).

DOI:

Publication date: April 11, 2022

Type: Poster

Issue: Terroir 1996

Authors

J.C. MONNET (1), M. GAIFFE (1), F. BERODIER (2)

(1) Université de Franche-Comté, Laboratoire de Sciences Végétales et Pédologie, 2 Place Leclerc, F-25030 Besançon Cedex
(2) Comité Interprofessionnel du Gruyère de Comté (C.I.G.C.), Avenue de la Résistance, B.P. 26, 39801 Poligny Cedex

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 1996

Citation

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