terclim by ICS banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Is wine terroir a valid concept under a changing climate?

Is wine terroir a valid concept under a changing climate?

Abstract

The OIV[i] defines terroir as a concept referring to an area in which collective knowledge of the interactions between the physical and biological environment (soil, topography, climate, landscape characteristics and biodiversity features) and vitivinicultural practices develops, providing distinctive wine characteristics. Those are perceptible in the taste of wine, which drives consumer preference and, therefore, wine’s value in the marketplace. Geographical indications (GI) are recognized regulatory constructs formalizing and protecting the nexus between wine taste and the terroir generating it. Despite considering updates, GIs do not consider the nexus as a dynamic one and do not anticipate change, namely of climate. Being climate a fundamental feature of terroir, it strongly impacts wine characteristics, such as taste. According to IPCC[ii], many widespread, rapid and unprecedented changes of climate occurred, some being irreversible over hundreds to thousands of years. Climatic shifts and atmospheric-driven extreme events have been widely reported worldwide. Recent climatic trends are projected to strengthen in upcoming decades, whereas extremes are expected to increase in frequency and intensity, forcing wines away from GI definitions. Geographical shifts of viticultural suitability are projected, often moving into regions and countries different from current ones. Some authors propose adaptation in viticulture, winemaking and product innovation. We show evidence of climate changing wine characteristics in the Douro valley, home of 270-year-old Port GI. We discuss herein resist or adapt stances for when climate changes the nexus between terroir and wine characteristics. Using the MED-GOLD[iii] dashboard, a tool allowing for easy visual navigation of past and future climates, we demonstrate how policymakers can identify future moments, throughout the 21st century under different emission scenarios, when GI specifications will likely need updates (e.g., boundaries, varieties) to reduce climate-change impacts.

[i] International Organization for Vine and Wine, www.oiv.int

[ii] Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change, https://www.ipcc.ch/

[iii] MED-GOLD H2020 Project, https://www.med-gold.eu/

DOI:

Publication date: May 31, 2022

Issue: Terclim 2022

Type: Poster

Authors

António Graça1, Marta Teixeira1, Sara Silva1, João Antunes1, Ilaria Vigo2, Raul Marcos2, Konstantinos V. Varotsos3, Christos Giannakopoulos3, João A. Santos4, Natacha Fontes1 and Alessandro dell’Aquila5

1Sogrape Vinhos S.A., Avintes, Portugal 
2Barcelona Supercomputing Centre, Barcelona, Spain
3Institute for Environmental Research and Sustainable Development, National Observatory of Athens, Greece
4UTAD, Vila Real, Portugal
5ENEA, Roma, Italy

Contact the author

Keywords

terroir, GI, climate, adaptation, resilience, risk

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terclim 2022

Citation

Related articles…

Effect of non-Saccharomyces yeast and lactic acid bacteria on selected sensory attributes and polyphenols of Syrah wines

Consumers predominantly use visual, aromatic and texture cues as quality/preference indicators to describe olfactory sensations. In this study, the effect of micro-organism in wine production was investigated using analytical and sensory techniques to achieve relevant analytical characterisation. Selected anthocyanins, flavan-3-ols, flavonols and phenolic acids were quantified in Syrah wines using RP-HPLC-DAD. Standard oenological parameters were also measured. Syrah grape must was fermented with various combinations of Saccharomyces cerevisiae (S. cerevisiae) and non-Saccharomyces (Metschnikowia pulcherrima or Hanseniaspora uvarum) yeasts, which was followed by sequential inoculation of lactic acid bacteria (LAB) (Oenococcus oeni or Lactobacillus plantarum).

Impact of malolactic fermentation on volatile composition and sensory properties of white and rosé wine from the greek variety moschofilero

Moschofilero is a native grape variety, classified as a ‘gris’ type variety, that is cultivated in PDO Mantineia, Peloponissos, Greece. It is used for the production of both white and rosé wines. Due to high altitude of the vineyards, the harvest is done by mid October, and many vintages are characterised by high acidities and low pH values.

Effects of Silver Thiosulphate and Salicylic Acid on the long-term maintenance of the embryogenic callus of Vitis vinifera

New Plant Breeding Techniques (NPBTs) have the potential to revolutionize the genetic improvement of grapevine. However, the practical application of these techniques is limited by several challenges, such as the difficulty in generating embryogenic calluses, maintaining their competence during in vitro cultivation, and regenerating plants without defects. To overcome these challenges, we conducted a study to test the effect of two treatments on callus cultures derived from different grapevine varieties, with and without embryogenic competence. The tested substances were Silver Thiosulphate (STS) an ethylene inhibitor, and Salicylic Acid (SA), an elicitor with different effects depending on the concentration of use beyond the ethylene inhibitor activity.

Challenges and opportunities for increasing organic carbon in vineyard soils: perspectives of extension specialists

Context description and research question: an increasing number of farmers are considering the impact of conservation practices on soil health to guide sustainable management of vineyards. Understanding impacts of soil management on soil organic carbon (SOC) is one lever for adoption of agroecological practice with potential to help maintain or improve soil health while building SOC stocks to mitigate climate change (Amelung et al., 2020).

Caractérisation et valorisation des terroirs de l’appellation d’origine contrôlée Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion

Le terroir viticole, qui est la base de la délimitation des aires d’Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, est une notion complexe dans laquelle sont en interaction la vigne, les facteurs naturels tels que le sol, le climat, ainsi que le facteur humain à travers les pratiques des viticulteurs. Le terroir conditionne la composition des raisins et ainsi la qualité et la typicité des vins qui en sont issus.