terclim by ICS banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Is wine terroir a valid concept under a changing climate?

Is wine terroir a valid concept under a changing climate?

Abstract

The OIV[i] defines terroir as a concept referring to an area in which collective knowledge of the interactions between the physical and biological environment (soil, topography, climate, landscape characteristics and biodiversity features) and vitivinicultural practices develops, providing distinctive wine characteristics. Those are perceptible in the taste of wine, which drives consumer preference and, therefore, wine’s value in the marketplace. Geographical indications (GI) are recognized regulatory constructs formalizing and protecting the nexus between wine taste and the terroir generating it. Despite considering updates, GIs do not consider the nexus as a dynamic one and do not anticipate change, namely of climate. Being climate a fundamental feature of terroir, it strongly impacts wine characteristics, such as taste. According to IPCC[ii], many widespread, rapid and unprecedented changes of climate occurred, some being irreversible over hundreds to thousands of years. Climatic shifts and atmospheric-driven extreme events have been widely reported worldwide. Recent climatic trends are projected to strengthen in upcoming decades, whereas extremes are expected to increase in frequency and intensity, forcing wines away from GI definitions. Geographical shifts of viticultural suitability are projected, often moving into regions and countries different from current ones. Some authors propose adaptation in viticulture, winemaking and product innovation. We show evidence of climate changing wine characteristics in the Douro valley, home of 270-year-old Port GI. We discuss herein resist or adapt stances for when climate changes the nexus between terroir and wine characteristics. Using the MED-GOLD[iii] dashboard, a tool allowing for easy visual navigation of past and future climates, we demonstrate how policymakers can identify future moments, throughout the 21st century under different emission scenarios, when GI specifications will likely need updates (e.g., boundaries, varieties) to reduce climate-change impacts.

[i] International Organization for Vine and Wine, www.oiv.int

[ii] Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change, https://www.ipcc.ch/

[iii] MED-GOLD H2020 Project, https://www.med-gold.eu/

DOI:

Publication date: May 31, 2022

Issue: Terclim 2022

Type: Poster

Authors

António Graça1, Marta Teixeira1, Sara Silva1, João Antunes1, Ilaria Vigo2, Raul Marcos2, Konstantinos V. Varotsos3, Christos Giannakopoulos3, João A. Santos4, Natacha Fontes1 and Alessandro dell’Aquila5

1Sogrape Vinhos S.A., Avintes, Portugal 
2Barcelona Supercomputing Centre, Barcelona, Spain
3Institute for Environmental Research and Sustainable Development, National Observatory of Athens, Greece
4UTAD, Vila Real, Portugal
5ENEA, Roma, Italy

Contact the author

Keywords

terroir, GI, climate, adaptation, resilience, risk

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terclim 2022

Citation

Related articles…

Zeowine: the synergy of zeolite and compost. Effects on vine physiology and grape quality

The trial aims to improve the protection and management of the soil, the well-being of the plant and the quality of production in the wine supply chain organic and biodynamic, using an innovative product “ZEOWINE” resulting from the composting of waste of the wine and zeolite supply chain.

Grape ripening timing as a base for viticultural zoning: an agro-ecological approach

Due to the central role of the ripening timing in the evaluation of the varietal response to the environmental resources, a method to manage maturation curves has been developed. The method produces an index of veraison precocity and overcomes several methodological problems, like the visual evaluation of the veraison point and the multi-annual and multi-varieties data processing. It is based on a statistical and mathematical processing of the sugar ripening curves.

A pragmatic modeling approach to assessing vine water status

Climate change scenarios suggest an increase in temperatures and an intensification of summer drought. Measuring seasonal plant water status is an essential step in choosing appropriate adaptations to ensure yields and quality of agricultural produce. The water status of grapevines is known to be a key factor for yield, maturity of grapes and wine quality. Several techniques exist to measure the water status of soil and plants, but stem water potential proved to be a simple and precise tool for different plant species.

Monitoring gas-phase CO2 in the headspace of champagne glasses through diode laser spectrometry

During Champagne or sparkling wine tasting, gas-phase CO2 and volatile organic compounds invade the headspace above glasses [1], thus progressively modifying the chemical space perceived by the consumer. Gas-phase CO2 in excess can even cause a very unpleasant tingling sensation perturbing both ortho- and retronasal olfactory perception [2]. Monitoring as accurately as possible the level of gas-phase CO2 above glasses is therefore a challenge of importance aimed at better understanding the close relationship between the release of CO2 and a collection of various tasting parameters.

Oenological potential of wines and agronomical characterisation of grapes from five white resistant Italian varieties at Serra Gaúcha, Southern Brazil

Rio grande do sul is the main grape producing state in Brazil, with the largest wine-growing area, responsible by 90% of the national production of wines and grape juices. Serra Gaúcha is the main vitivinicultural region, where around 15% of the area is destined to produce wines from vitis vinifera L. grapes. This region presents high rainfall during the grape maturation cycle, a factor that leads to great risk of attacks by fungal pathogens. the use of resistant varieties can reduce the cost and quantity of spraying, improving wine quality, focusing on a sustainable vitiviniculture.