Prise en compte et mutations de l’acidité volatile au XXe siècle : les évolutions règlementaires, scientifiques et qualitatives d’un composé du vin au regard de l’histoire

Climate transition with frequent heat waves and long drought periods threatens grapevine productivity and wine quality in the Mediterranean regions. Microorganisms are known to contribute to plant fitness and to stimulate plant resilience against biotic and abiotic factors.
In this work, it was assessed the impact of long-term drought on soil microbiome associated to grapevine in open field in Alentejo, renowned Portuguese wine region.
Soil and plant tissues of drought tolerant Syrah cultivar exposed to three irrigation levels (100%- FI, 50%-DI ETc; rain-fed–NI) for 5 years were sampled for two years (2022-2023). Metabarcoding analysis of soil bacteria (16S V4 rRNA) and fungi (ITS sub-region) were integrated with soil physiochemical properties and leaves´ physiological data. Pre-dawn leaf water potential and stomatal conductance confirmed the imposed drought scenarios. Even though, α- and β-diversity of prokaryotic and eukaryotic microbial communities differed more by season than water availability, samples clustered according to soil water content and pH (p<0.05). Fungal communities show higher differences in the structure across treatments than bacteria. In 2023, 16 bacterial against 61 fungal ASVs were significatively different in abundance between NI and FI. Beijerinckiaceae, Bradyrhizobiaceae (Alphaproteobacteria) and Nocardioidaceae, Streptomycetaceae (Actinobacteria) families resulted to be significatively more abundant in NI, while Ascomycota, Basidyomicota and Mortierellomycota are the most important fungal phyla in NI. With culturomics data, this study aims to gather insights into how soil microbiome is remodelled under drought and contribute to select bacterial and fungal taxa with potential to mitigate drought stress in vineyards.

The global consumer demand for low or non-alcoholic wine is growing steadily in recent years, driven by health concerns, religious beliefs, and personal taste preferences etc.. Consequently, the removal of alcohol from wine can significantly alter its chemical and sensory properties, including color, aroma, and taste, which make a significant challenge for consumer to accept these products. Ethanol plays a crucial role in various chemical reactions and interactions that contribute to the development of wine’s characteristics.

Plants have been shown to redistribute water between root sections and soil layers along a gradient of decreasing water availability. One benefit of this hydraulic redistribution is that water can be transported from roots in wet soil to others in dry soil, delaying the onset of water stress and increasing root longevity in dry environments. Grapevines are thought to redistribute water laterally across the trunk from wet to dry portions of the root system. However, it is unknown whether the phloem contributes to such water redistribution.

Globalisation and climate change have radically transformed world wine production upsetting the established order of wine ecologies. Ecological risks and the future of traditional agricultural systems are widely debated in anthropology, but very little is understood of the particular challenges posed by climate change to viticulture which is seen by many as the canary in the coalmine of global agriculture. Moreover, wine as a globalised embedded commodity provides a particularly telling example for the study of climate change having already attracted early scientific attention. Studies of climate change in viticulture have focused primarily on the production of systematic models of adaptation and vulnerability, while the human and cultural factors, which are key to adaptation and sustainable futures, are largely missing. Climate experts have been unanimous in recognising the urgent need for a better understanding of the complex dynamics that shape how climate change is experienced and responded to by human systems. Yet this call has not yet been addressed. Climate ethnography, coined by the anthropologist Susan Crate (2011), aims to bridge this growing disjuncture between climate science and everyday life through the exploration of the social meaning of climate change. It seeks to investigate the confrontation of its social salience in different locations and under different environmental guises (Goodman 2018: 340). By understanding how wine producers make sense of the world (and the environment) and act in it, it proposes to focus on the co-production of interdisciplinary knowledge by identifying and foreshadowing problems (Goodman 2018: 342; Goodman & Marshall 2018). It seeks to offer an original, transformative and contrasted perspective to climate change scenarios by investigating human agency -individual or collective- in all its social, political and cultural diversity. An anthropological approach founded on detailed ethnographies of wine production is ideally placed to address economic, social and cultural disruptions caused by the emergence of these new environmental challenges. Indeed, the community of experts in environmental change have recently called for research that will encompass the human dimension and for more broad-based, integrated through interdisciplinarity, useful knowledge (Castree & al 2014). My paper seeks to engage with climate ethnography and discuss what it brings to the study of wine environmental futures while exploring the limitations of the anthropological environmental approach.

Hydrogen sulfide (H2S) has a significant impact on wine aroma attributes and wine quality when present at concentrations above its aroma threshold of 1.1 to 1.6 μg/L.