Prise en compte et mutations de l’acidité volatile au XXe siècle : les évolutions règlementaires, scientifiques et qualitatives d’un composé du vin au regard de l’histoire

Since the 18th century, sulfur dioxide (SO2) is used in winemaking. Added at different steps, its antimicrobial but also antioxidasic and antioxidant properties are very helpful for winemakers. Nevertheless sulfur dioxide has a real potential health impact, particularly for sensitive consumers often highlighted by hygienists. Nowadays, a serious trend for “natural” wines (i.e. produced without any additives), as described by their producers, could be observed on the French market what match with a proliferation of wines elaborated without any sulfite addition. 

One of the characteristics of the terroir zoning studies that is more complex to manage is the scale dependence. Thus, terroir zoning studies of the same area at different scales are comparable but not equal. Fractal analysis has demonstrated to be a suitable tool to characterize and model natural elements within a defined range of scales.

Like France, Hungary has many oak forests used for making barrels since many years. But if the differences between the woods of the North, the East and the South-West forests of France are well known, this is probably not the case of Hungarian forests. However taking into account the essential differences of climates and soils, differences must be significant and the general name “Hungarian oak” must not have any real meaning. We have studied precisely (determination of concentrations of volatile and non-volatile wood compounds, anatomical criteria, measurement of antioxidant capacity) of oaks collected from northeastern Hungary and others collected from the Danube valley in the northwest of the country.

Climate is the major factor influencing the dynamics of the vegetative cycle and can determine the timing of phenological periods. Knowledge of the phenology of varieties, their chronological duration, and thermal requirements, allows not only for the better management of interventions in the vineyard, but also to predict the varieties’ behaviour in a scenario of climate change, giving the wine producer the possibility of selecting the grape varieties that are best adapted to the climatic conditions of a certain terroir. In 2014, Symington Family Estates, Vinhos, established two grape variety libraries in two different places with distinctive climate conditions (Douro Superior, and Cima Corgo), with the commitment of contributing to a deeper agronomic and oenological understanding of some grape varieties, in hot climate conditions. In these research vineyards are represented local varieties that are important in the regional and national viticulture, but also others that have over time been forgotten — as well as five international reference cultivars. From 2017 to 2021, phenological observations have been made three times a week, following a defined protocol, to determine the average dates of budbreak, flowering and veraison. With the climate data of each location, the thermal requirements of each variety and the chronological duration of each phase have been calculated. During maturation, berry samples have been gathered weekly to study the dynamics of sugar accumulation, between other parameters. The data was analysed applying phenological and sugar accumulation models available in literature. The results obtained show significant differences between the varieties over several parameters, from the chronological duration and thermal requirements to complete the various stages of development, to the differences between the two locations, confirming the influence of the climate on phenology and the stages of maturation, in these specific conditions.

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