Metabolomics screening of Vitis sp. interspecific hybrids to select natural ingredients with cosmetic purposes

Abstract

Introducing natural ingredients using green chemistry practices is a major challenge in cosmetics industry to follow the market trend. Among the plants of cosmetic interest, vine products show a remarkable diversity of natural substances with high potential for the cosmetic and dermatological sectors. To date, research focuses on well-known compounds like E-resveratrol and E-ε-viniferin, however grapevine contains many bioactive polyphenols for which biological activities remains unknown. Moreover, complex polyphenol-rich extracts displayed activities against skin aging through tyrosinase inhibition and in the delay of skin senescence by sirtuin activation (Malinowska et al., 2020).

The domesticated grapevine (Vitis vinifera L.) presents a huge varietal diversity with over 10,000 varieties worldwide. Today, UPLC-MS-based metabolomics coupled to multivariate statistics constitute breakthrough approaches to harness the chemical diversity of large grape germplasm collections including hybrid interspecific producers (V. vinifera × V. sp.) (Billet et al., 2021).

In this context, polyphenol-rich grape cane extracts from 24 French-American interspecific hybrids were analyzed by UPLC-MS. Metabolic phenotypes based on the relative concentration in phenolics acids, flavonols, flavan-3-ols and stilbenoids have been established and the cosmetic potential of the corresponding extracts was investigated using several biological assays including antioxidant activities (DPPH, FRAP, CUPRAC and ABTS), tyrosinase inhibition and sirtuin activation.

References

Billet K, Unlubayir M, Munsch T, Malinowska MA, de Bernonville TD, Oudin A, Courdavault V, Besseau S, Giglioli-Guivarc’h N, Lanoue A (2021) Postharvest Treatment of Wood Biomass from a Large Collection of European Grape Varieties: Impact on the Selection of Polyphenol-Rich Byproducts. ACS Sustain Chem Eng 9: 3509–3517

Malinowska MA, Billet K, Drouet S, Munsch T, Unlubayir M, Tungmunnithum D, Giglioli-Guivarc’h N, Hano C, Lanoue A (2020) Grape Cane Extracts as Multifunctional Rejuvenating Cosmetic Ingredient: Evaluation of Sirtuin Activity, Tyrosinase Inhibition and Bioavailability Potential. Molecules. doi: 10.3390/molecules25092203