How the physical components of the terroir can differently intervene in French wines DPO definitions.Example of Côte de Nuits in Burgundy

In this video recording of the IVES science meeting 2021, Benjamin Bois (Institut Universitaire de la Vigne et du Vin – IUVV, Université de Bourgogne, Dijon, France) speaks about zoning the climatic potentialities and risk of vineyards & wine production regions. This presentation is based on an original article accessible for free on OENO One

​For several years, the chemistry of taste has aroused high interest both from academics and industrials. Plant kingdom is a rich and reliable source of new taste-active compounds. Many sweet, bitter or sour molecules have been identified in various plants [1]. They belong to diverse chemical families and their sensory properties are strongly affected by slight structural modifications. As a consequence, the investigation of natural taste-active products in a given matrix appears as a major challenge for chemists. Such studies are particularly relevant in oenology since they allow a better understanding of wine and spirit taste.

In wine producing regions around the world, climate change has the potential to decrease the frequency and amount of precipitation and increase average and extreme temperatures. This will lower soil water availability and increase evaporative demand, thereby increasing the frequency and intensity of water deficit experienced in vineyards. Among other things, grapevines manage water deficit by regulating stomatal closure. The dynamics of this regulation, however, have not been well characterized across the range of Vitis vinifera cultivars. Providing a method to understand how different cultivars regulate their stomata, and hence water use in response to changes in soil water deficits will help growers manage vineyards and select plant material to better meet quality and yield objectives in a changing climate.

a) wine, a qualitative and user-friendly product, favors a visual support, even for a scientific study because it refers to the image of the terroir, in particular by its visible landscape. b) the vineyard landscape, which is fairly open by definition, favors this type of approach. c) the framework of the Terroir Test conducted by the URVV (INRA – Angers) comprises 15 micro-plots of 100 strains, and requires at this scale precise surveys of the environment, hence systematic shots, of the center of the plot, over 360°, at 50 mm intervals, at 1.70 m from the ground and horizontally.

In partnership with a Bordeaux property wanting to improve the quality of its second wine, the effects of two factors, American oak barrels and mannoproteins were studied. Their impact on the attractiveness and sweetness of wines were characterized during two successive vintages (2012 and 2013). Vinification took place with a homogeneous batch of Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine was then divided up into various groups of five barrels of French and American oak, new or reused. Analyses of volatile and non-volatile wood compounds were undertaken at four months and eight months of wood ageing, by LC-MS and GC-MS.