AGING PATTERNS OF VARIETAL VOLATILE PROFILES OF WHITE WINES: A CASE STUDY ON 18 ITALIAN VARIETAL WHITE WINES

For coopers, seasoning and toasting are considered crucial steps in barrel making during which the oak wood develops specific organoleptic properties. Seasoning, carried out in the open air, allows reducing the moisture content of the staves to between 14 and 18% (compared to 70 to 90% after splitting) while modulating the intrinsic composition of the oak wood. Toasting consists of applying different degrees of heat to a barrel for a specific period of time. As the temperature increases, oak wood produces a wide range of chemical compounds through thermal degradation of its intrinsic composition.

Cognac is an outstanding french wine spirit appreciated around the world and produced exclusively in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region, and more precisely in the Cognac area. According to AOC regulations (Appellation D’origine Controlée), the spirit required at least 2 years of continuous ageing in oak barrels to be granted the title of Cognac. The oak wood will import color, structure and organoleptic complexity. The different steps during barrel-making process, such as seasoning and toasting, influence the above quality attributes in both wines and spirits.

Climate change is a great challenge for the environment and affects the wine industry as well. Sunburn damage of sensitive grapes increase with severe heat periods. Besides significant loss of yield sunburn, modifies sensory properties of the wines and may cause climate-related off-flavours. To initiate sunburn in a controlled way, in 2021 sunburn was directly induced in the vineyard with the GrapeBurner device, exposing grapes of the varieties Riesling and Pinot Blanc with UV and IR radiation. This device was first assembled by Kai Müller of the university in Geisenheim and consists of a carriage with 6 UV/IR lamps. A 15 min irradiation was applied in early September at 60°Oe. Due to the colder season in 2021 the grapes were not harmed by previous sunburn damage.

The chemistry of wine is notably complex and is modified by ageing of the bottles. The composition of wines is the result of vine production (under the influence of vintage, climate and soils); yeast production (under the influence of juice composition and fermentation management); lactic bacteria production (under the influence of young wine composition and malolactic fermentation management); and of the ageing process either in vats, barrels or bottles or both. The composition is linked to the quality perceived by consumers but also to their origin, sometimes associated to the “terroir” concept.

All along the red winemaking process, many microorganisms develop in wine, some being beneficial and essential, others being feared spoilers. One of the most feared microbial enemy of wine all around the world is Brettanomyces bruxellensis. Indeed, in red wines, this yeast produces volatile phenols, molecules associated with a flavor described as “horse sweat”, “burnt plastic” or “leather”. To produce significant and detectable concentrations of these undesired molecules, the yeasts should first grow and become numerous enough. Even if the genetic group of the strain present and the cellar temperature may modulate the yeast growth rate¹ and thus the risk of spoilage, the main factor seems to be the wines themselves, some being much more permissive to B. bruxellensis development than others.