Pinot noir: an endemic or a flexible variety?

Globalisation and climate change have radically transformed world wine production upsetting the established order of wine ecologies. Ecological risks and the future of traditional agricultural systems are widely debated in anthropology, but very little is understood of the particular challenges posed by climate change to viticulture which is seen by many as the canary in the coalmine of global agriculture. Moreover, wine as a globalised embedded commodity provides a particularly telling example for the study of climate change having already attracted early scientific attention. Studies of climate change in viticulture have focused primarily on the production of systematic models of adaptation and vulnerability, while the human and cultural factors, which are key to adaptation and sustainable futures, are largely missing. Climate experts have been unanimous in recognising the urgent need for a better understanding of the complex dynamics that shape how climate change is experienced and responded to by human systems. Yet this call has not yet been addressed. Climate ethnography, coined by the anthropologist Susan Crate (2011), aims to bridge this growing disjuncture between climate science and everyday life through the exploration of the social meaning of climate change. It seeks to investigate the confrontation of its social salience in different locations and under different environmental guises (Goodman 2018: 340). By understanding how wine producers make sense of the world (and the environment) and act in it, it proposes to focus on the co-production of interdisciplinary knowledge by identifying and foreshadowing problems (Goodman 2018: 342; Goodman & Marshall 2018). It seeks to offer an original, transformative and contrasted perspective to climate change scenarios by investigating human agency -individual or collective- in all its social, political and cultural diversity. An anthropological approach founded on detailed ethnographies of wine production is ideally placed to address economic, social and cultural disruptions caused by the emergence of these new environmental challenges. Indeed, the community of experts in environmental change have recently called for research that will encompass the human dimension and for more broad-based, integrated through interdisciplinarity, useful knowledge (Castree & al 2014). My paper seeks to engage with climate ethnography and discuss what it brings to the study of wine environmental futures while exploring the limitations of the anthropological environmental approach.

The adaptation of rootstock to scion variety and soil determines largely the control of the vegetative growth for grapevine. Many experiments were performed in the vineyard to classify the rootstocks according to their soil adaptation and to their effect on vine vigour. So far there are no data describing the course of appearance of rootstock effects after plantation. Moreover the underlying mechanisms of conferred vigour remain largely unknown.

This issue poses two questions: the relationship between beauty and taste (is landscape quality an index of wine quality ?), and the gap or the conformity between our image of the “terroir” and the visible reality. The landscape is both an object and a representation.

Grapevine Red Blotch disease (RB) is a recently discovered disease that has become a major concern for the viticulture and winemaking industry in California, USA. The causal
agent, Grapevine Red Blotch Virus (GRBV) was identified in 2011 and its presence was confirmed in several states in the US, in Canada, and in Switzerland. It has been demonstrated that RB compromised the regulation of ripening by suppressing specific ripening events, altering the expression patterns of transcription factors and causing hormonal imbalances in Zinfandel.

The experimental studies conducted in the eastern Georgia in Sagarejo administrative district on the foothills of the southern slope of Tsiv-Gombori range reveal the possibility of enlarging Manavi traditional specific zone to the north-west (from Giorgitsminda to Khashmi), at 500-750 m above sea level.