Terroir 2010 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Terroir characterization from cv. Merlot and Sauvignon plots follow-up within the scope of wine-production : “Vins de Pays Charentais” in the Cognac eaux-de-vie vineyard area

Terroir characterization from cv. Merlot and Sauvignon plots follow-up within the scope of wine-production : “Vins de Pays Charentais” in the Cognac eaux-de-vie vineyard area

Abstract

[English version below]

Dans les études des terroirs, il est souvent délicat d’établir des zonages et de mesurer les effets de l’environnement sur les vins. Avec plus d’un million d’hectares dans l’aire d’appellation délimitée, le terroir du célèbre vignoble de Cognac est bien connu pour ces eaux-de-vie et ainsi divisé en 6 crus.
Cette étude vise à décrire le terroir des Vins de Pays Charentais (VPC) produits dans le vignoble Cognaçais. Les principaux cépages spécifiquement destinés à la production de VPC (Merlot et Sauvignon blanc) ont été étudiés en collectant de nombreuses données sur 5 millésimes et 35 parcelles représentant la diversité agro-pédo-climatique de la région. Comme souvent dans les essais au champ les expérimentateurs ont été confrontés à de multiples facteurs croisés et de nombreux paramètres ont été suivis. A ce stade, peu de données climatiques ont été introduites et les données de dégustation n’ont pas été incluses.
Une expertise préliminaire a permis de sélectionner certaines variables, classées en 4 groupes distincts : données climatiques et pédologiques, matériel végétal, phénologie et vinification.
L’analyse statistique exploratoire a fait ressortir certaines variables influentes, par exemple l’ère géologique et le type de sol, qui distinguent des unités cohérentes d’un point de vue géographique notamment les îles de Ré et d’Oléron. Le comportement des vignes VPC est ensuite étudié sur chacune de ces unités afin de définir ces terroirs viticoles.
Les groupes de parcelles destinées à la production de vin semblent concorder pour une bonne part aux crus des eaux de vie de Cognac même si le cépage et le type de produit diffèrent. Ces résultats vont permettre de réfléchir sur différents moyens d’optimiser l’effet terroir par les pratiques des producteurs de VPC sur les différents terroirs.

Zoning and understanding the effects of the environment expressed in vine products has always been a difficult work to start off with terroir. Thus, with more than one million hectares in the delimited appellation area, the famous Cognac vineyard terroir is well-known for eaux-de-vie and divided in 6 vintages areas since the beginning of the 20th century.
This project aims at describing the terroir for wines named “Vins de Pays Charentais” (VPC) produced in the Cognac vineyard. Main cultivars specifically used to produce VPC (Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc) were studied by collecting a set of data, using 6 years and 35 plots to represent the diversity of environmental and cultural situations in the area. As often in field trials, experimenters were confronted with many crossed factors and numerous variables were measured. At this stage, only few climatic data is available. A preliminary expertise allowed to choose some of the variables sorted in 4 distinctive groups : soil and climate data, plant material, vine cycle and grapes and then wine-making process. Tasting data was not taken into account regarding as its robustness.
The statistical exploratory analysis brought out some influential variables, as for example geological era and soil type, that clearly segregate coherent geographic units, notably Ré and Oléron islands which are breaking away. From then on, to define various “wine-terroirs” these clusters should each correspond to consistent VPC grapevine behavior and wines.
Most climatic data still has to be crossed with the plots groups sorted, but the clusters of wine producing plots already appears to tally, at least partly, Cognac firewater vineyards classification even if cultivars and type of product differ. These results allow to consider various means to optimize terroir effect by VPC winegrowers’ practices on each plot, depending on its cluster.

DOI:

Publication date: December 3, 2021

Issue: Terroir 2010

Type: Article

Authors

BERNARD F.M. (1), PREYS S. (2), GIRARD M. (3) & MORNET L. (4)

(1) IFV, Institut Français de la Vigne et du vin, 15 Rue Pierre Viala, 16130, Segonzac, France
(2) Ondalys, 385 Avenue des Baronnes, 34730, Prades-Le-Lez, France
(3) Chambre d’Agriculture de Charente-Maritime, 3 Boulevard Vladimir, 17100, Saintes, France
(4) Chambre d’Agriculture de Charente, 25 Rue de Cagouillet, 16100, Cognac, France

Contact the author

Keywords

Vins de Pays Charentais, Merlot, Sauvignon, Terroir viticole, Sol, Millésime
Vins de Pays Charentais, Merlot, Sauvignon, Wine-terroir, Soil, Vintage

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2010

Citation

Related articles…

Impact of yeast derivatives to increase the phenolic maturity and aroma intensity of wine

Using viticultural and enological techniques to increase aromatics in white wine is a prized yet challenging technique for commercial wine producers. Equally difficult are challenges encountered in hastening phenolic maturity and thereby increasing color intensity in red wines. The ability to alter organoleptic and visual properties of wines plays a decisive role in vintages in which grapes are not able to reach full maturity, which is seen increasingly more often as a result of climate change. A new, yeast-based product on the viticultural market may give the opportunity to increase sensory properties of finished wines. Manufacturer packaging claims these yeast derivatives intensify wine aromas of white grape varieties, as well as improve phenolic ripeness of red varieties, but the effects of this application have been little researched until now. The current study applied the yeast derivative, according to the manufacture’s instructions, to the leaves of both neutral and aromatic white wine varieties, as well as on structured red wine varieties. Chemical parameters and volatile aromatics were analyzed in grape musts and finished wines, and all wines were subjected to sensory analysis by a tasting panel. Collective results of all analyses showed that the application of the yeast derivative in the vineyard showed no effect across all varieties examined, and did not intensify white wine aromatics, nor improve phenolic ripeness and color intensity in red wine.

An analytical framework to site-specifically study climate influence on grapevine involving the functional and Bayesian exploration of farm data time series synchronized using an eGDD thermal index

Climate influence on grapevine physiology is prevalent and this influence is only expected to increase with climate change. Although governed by a general determinism, climate influence on grapevine physiology may present variations according to the terroir. In addition, these site-specific differences are likely to be enhanced when climate influence is studied using farm data. Indeed, farm data integrate additional sources of variation such as a varying representativity of the conditions actually experienced in the field. Nevertheless, there is a real challenge in valuing farm data to enable grape growers to understand their own terroir and consequently adapt their practices to the local conditions. In such a context, this article proposes a framework to site-specifically study climate influence on grapevine physiology using farm data. It focuses on improving the analysis of time series of weather data. The analytical framework includes the synchronization of time series using site-specific thermal indices computed with an original method called Extended Growing Degree Days (eGDD). Synchronized time series are then analyzed using a Bayesian functional Linear regression with Sparse Steps functions (BLiSS) in order to detect site-specific periods of strong climate influence on yield development. The article focuses on temperature and rain influence on grape yield development as a case study. It uses data from three commercial vineyards respectively situated in the Bordeaux region (France), California (USA) and Israel. For all vineyards, common periods of climate influence on yield development were found. They corresponded to already known periods, for example around veraison of the year before harvest. However, the periods differed in their precise timing (e.g. before, around or after veraison), duration and correlation direction with yield. Other periods were found for only one or two vineyards and/or were not referred to in literature, for example during the winter before harvest.

Deconstructing the soil component of terroir: from controversy to consensus

Wine terroir describes the collectively recognized relation between a geographical area and the distinctive organoleptic characteristics of the wines produced in it. The overriding objective in terroir studies is therefore to provide scientific proof relating the properties of terroir components to wine quality and typicity. In scientific circles, the role of climate (macro-, meso- and micro-) on grape and wine characteristics is well documented and accepted as the most critical. Moreover, there has been increasing interest in recent years about new elements with possible importance in shaping wine terroir like berry/leaf/soil microbiology or even aromatic plants in proximity to the vineyard conferring flavors to the grapes. However, the actual effect of these factors is also dependent on complex interactions with plant material (variety/clone, rootstock, vine age) and with human factors.
The contribution of soil, although a fundamental component of terroir and extremely popular among wine enthusiasts, remains a much-debated issue among researchers. The role of geology is probably the one mostly associated by consumers with the notion of terroir with different parent rocks considered to give birth to different wine styles. However, the relationship between wine properties and the underlying parent material raises a lot of controversy especially regarding the actual existence of rock-derived flavors in the wine (e.g. minerality). As far as the actual soil properties are concerned, the effect of soil physical properties is generally regarded as the most significant (e.g sandy soils being associated with lighter wines while those on clay with colored and tannic ones) mostly through control of water availability which ultimately modifies berry ripening conditions either directly by triggering biosynthetic pathways, or indirectly by altering vigor and yield components. The role of soil chemistry seems to be weakly associated to wine sensory characteristic, although N, K, S and Ca, but also soil pH, are often considered important in the overall soil effect.
Recently, in the light of evidence provided by precision agriculture studies reporting a high variability of vineyard soils, the spatial scale should also be taken into consideration in the evaluation of the soil effects on wines. While it is accepted that soil effects become more significant than climate on a local level, it is not clear whether these micro-variations of vineyard soils are determining in the terroir effect. Moreover, as terroir is not a set of only natural factors, the magnitude of the contribution of human-related factors (irrigation, fertilization, soil management) to the soil effect still remains ambiguous. Lastly, a major shortcoming of the majority of works about soil effects on wine characteristics is the absence of connection with actual vine physiological processes since all soil effects on grape and wine chemistry and sensorial properties are ultimately mediated through vine responses.
This article attempts to breakdown the main soil attributes involved in the terroir effect to suggest an improved understanding about soil’s true contribution to wine sensory characteristics. It is proposed that soil parameters per se are not as significant determining factors in the terroir effect but rather their mutual interactions as well as with other natural and human factors included in the terroir concept. Consequently, similarly to bioclimatic indices, composite soil indices (i.e. soil depth, water holding capacity, fertility, temperature etc), incorporating multiple soil parameters, might provide a more accurate and quantifiable means to assess the relative weight of the soil component in the terroir effect.

Climate, Viticulture, and Wine … my how things have changed!

The planet is warmer than at any time in our recorded past and increasing greenhouse emissions and persistence in the climate system means that continued warming is highly likely. Climate change has already altered the basic framework of growing grapes for wine production worldwide and will likely continue to do so for years to come. The wine sector can continue to play an important role in leading the agricultural sector in addressing climate change. From developing on…

How distinctive are single vineyard Gewürztraminer musts and wines from Alto Adige (Italy) based on untargeted analysis, sensory profiling, and chemometric elaboration?

Vitis vinifera L. ‘Gewürztraminer’ is a historical grape variety of Alto Adige (Südtirol), Italy, which is widely grown in the area of Tramin an der Weinstraße, but is also grown globally. It produces highly aromatic wines that are strongly influenced by the terroir of the vineyard sites where they are grown. This study looked at musts and young wines from ‘Gewürztraminer’ grapes harvested in seven distinct vineyards near Tramin and then processed at Cantina di Termeno, minimizing winemaking protocol variability. Samples were profiled using bidimensional gas chromatography–time-of-flight mass spectrometry, liquid chromatography coupled to electrochemical detection, and near-IR spectrometry. The data were subjected to Principle Component Analysis and Hierarchical Clustering Analysis. Sensory discriminant testing was undertaken using the sorting method with a semi-trained panel, and the data were processed using Multidimensional Scaling. Seven must/wine pairs could be distinguished based on their untargeted volatilome profiles and on sensory evaluation. As expected, there were greater differences in the volatile compounds between the wines than between the musts. The wines from vineyards 4 and 5 were nonetheless quite homogenous in terms of chemical and sensory analyses, as were the wines from vineyards 1 and 3. For the phenolic profile, differences were noted between the musts and wines of vineyards 2, 3, and 4, but the musts from vineyards 5 and 7 were similar. Sensory analysis showed the wines from vineyards 6 and 7 to be distinct from the rest. These results reinforce that the composition of ‘Gewürztraminer’ musts and wines is strongly determined by vineyard site, even in a small geographic area with high variability of the terroir (soil and microclimate), and that these differences are apparent in the flavours and aromas of the finished wines. Further confirmation would require a larger sample of wines, preferably from several vintages.