“Un grande theatro di amenissimi colli”: “tutti coltivati et abondanti di frutti eccellentissimi e di buonissime viti”

One of the main sensory characteristics of red wine is astringency, which can be defined as drying, puckering and roughing of the oral cavity after the exposure to tannin-rich wines. Tannins are the main responsible for the intensity of the sensation as well for the qualitative aspects of astringency. However, the total intensity of the sensation is not sufficient to fully characterize red wine astringency. Thirty-three different subqualities (Gawel et al. 2001) had been generated to describe the complexity of this multi perceptual phenomenon, which includes both tastes, tactile, and flavor sensations. So, how to feel tannins during tasting? In this study, we used a sensory method that combine the training for astringency subqualities with touch-standards and the CATA questions, usually applied in consumer science, to evaluate the astringency subqualities of different typologies of Sangiovese: commercial and experimental wines. Sangiovese wine represents a good model for the study of astringency because it is generally characterized by a high content of low and high molecular weight proantocyanidins. Commercial wines differed for percentage of Sangiovese (80-100 %) grapes used in winemaking and for designation (Toscana TS, Chianti Classico CH, Chianti Riserva CR, Morellino di Scansano MS). The astringency profile of wines changed as the percentage of Sangiovese increased. Positive subqualities as velvet, soft, mouthcoat, and rich highly characterized the Sangiovese wine belonging to TS and CR designations. Moreover, the astringency subqualities related to blending or wood aging, represented the drivers of quality of commercial Sangiovese wines.

Assessing grape composition is critical in vineyard management. It is required to decide the harvest date and to optimize cultural practices toward the achievement of production goals. The grape composition is variable in time and space, as it is affected by the ripening process and depends on soil and climate conditions.

Over the last years, due to climate change, several red wines, such as the Sangiovese wines, have been often subjected to loss of clarity due to the formation of deposits of fine needle-shaped crystals. This phenomenon turned out to be due to an excess of quercetin (Q) and its glycosides (Q-Gs) in wines. These compounds are synthesized to a large extent when grapes are excessively exposed to UVB radiations in vineyards[1]. Unfortunately, it is not easy to predict the degree of Q precipitation because its solubility strongly depends on the wine and matrix composition[2].

AIM: Patterns in data obtained from wine chemical and sensory evaluations are difficult to infer using classical statistics.

Flow cytometry (FCM) is a powerful technique allowing the detection, characterization and quantification of microbial populations in different fields of application (medical environment, food industry, enology, etc.). Depending on the fluorescent markers and specific probes used, FCM provides information on the physiological state of the cell and allows the quantification of a microorganism of interest within a mixed population. For 15 years, the enological sector has shown growing interest in this technique, which is now used to determine the populations present (of interest or spoilage) and the physiological state of microorganisms at the different stages of winemaking.