Vineyard soil mapping to optimise wine quality: from ‘terroir’ characterisation to vineyard management

Aim: Terroir is a French concept relating the qualities and quality of agricultural products to their physical and socio-cultural place of origin. It is increasingly used by business and policymakers as a marketing technique to provide economic benefits (e.g. Lenglet, 2014; Wine Australia, 2015), and to potentially preserve cultural heritage (e.g. Bauer, 2009) and the environment (e.g. Bowen, 2010)

Climate change is introducing a high variability on grape ripening, causing uncertainty, excessive spending on pesticides and eventually frustrating results in terms of the quality of the vintage, with the increasingly frequent appearance of aromatic problems associated with overripeness, raisining and greenness, which sometimes only appear in bottled wines.

In 2020, 12% of all bottled German wines were aromatized, which may increase further due to rising popularity of dealcoholized wines. As sealing polymers of a bottling line absorb aroma compounds and may release them into regular wines in the next filling¹, this unintentional carry-over bears the risk to violate the legal ban of any aromatization of regular wine. However, following EU legislation, German food control authorities accept a technical unavoidable transfer of aroma compounds, if this is of no sensory significance.

Wine quality depends largely on berry ripening conditions in relation to soil and climat. The influence of the soil has been studied in Bordeaux since the early Seventies (SEGUIN, 1970; DUTEAU et al., 1981; VAN LEEUWEN, 1991; VAN LEEUWEN et SEGUIN, 1994) and, more recently, in the Val de Loire (MORLAT, 1989), the Alsace (LEBON, 1993) and the Costières de Nîmes regions (MARTIN, 1995).

Maintaining stable yields and quality over time is a major challenge for the wine industry. Within the context of climate change, the choice of the rootstock is an important lever for adapting to current and future climatic conditions. Within a vineyard, the choice of the rootstock depends on the environmental conditions, the scion variety and the objectives of production. Many experimental data on the performances of rootstock already exist and can guide our decision-making.