Enhancement of the terroir

Abstract

Le terroir est aujourd’hui le facteur de production et de valorisation le plus importante de la filière du vin. Dans un contexte où le défi commercial se déroule tout azimut, la distinction entre pays producteurs traditionnels et « nouveaux » n’est pas seulement une contre position géographique, culturelle et technique mais aussi, et surtout, juridique. En effet, le système des normes présentes dans le « vieux monde » (droits de plantations, décrets de productions, rendements à l’hectare, etc.) qui peut représenter, à court terme sur le marché global, des contraintes au développement et à l’innovation des produits, doit se transformer en opportunité. Mais les menaces deviennent des opportunités, si l’on travaille, de la vigne au marché, en passant par la communication, plutôt sur les éléments de différence que sur ceux d’affinité. Se donner le but d’être différents avant d’être meilleurs.

L’élément « unique » d’un vin, qui peut mettre en exergue les spécificités d’une région, d’une appellation, d’un lieu-dit, d’un site, d’une parcelle, est le terroir. Et l’outil, qui permet de valoriser un terroir est la connaissance, à la bonne échelle, des éléments structuraux, de fonctionnement et d’interaction qui le caractérisent. Mais font partie aussi du terroir d’autres facteurs d’ordre historique, culturel, social et économique qui se sont développés au cours du siècle et qui se sont mélangés et fondus avec la composante géographique du terroir. On pourrait donc, dans l’optique d’une valorisation à 360° d’un vin et de son alentour, concevoir l’esprit géo humain du terroir. Mais pour concevoir cet esprit, il est nécessaire que les acteurs de la filière vin soient capables de réfléchir, au-delà des vignes et des produits, dans une dimension systémique. Les travaux de zonage, qu’à partir des années 80, ont étudié et caractérisé les aires de production, les appellations d’origine et leurs terroirs, ont fort aidé à mettre en exergue les spécificités, à révéler les potentiels qualitatifs, à donner des explications et à mettre au point des outils de valorisation. Il suffit de reprendre les actes des colloques qui ont précédé celui auquel nous sommes en train de participer ainsi que les actes d’autres colloques concernant les paysage viticoles, d’analyser la démarche de l’UNESCO qui a créé un groupe de réflexion « terroirs et cultures » (au pluriel), pour comprendre l’évolution, la perception et l’importance du lien vin-terroir au cours de trois dernières décennies. La lecture et l’analyse des témoignages exposés dans les colloques cités permettent de mieux comprendre le travail qui a été réalisé, mais surtout le travail qui reste à accomplir pour valoriser les terroirs étudiés à travers les informations et les connaissances disponibles.

Aucun produit issu de la terre et du savoir-faire humain a fait l’objet d’autant d’études scientifiques multidisciplinaires et a stimulé des réflexions littéraires et artistiques comme le vin. Une telle richesse bibliographique représente du matériel qu’il faut analyser, adapter et synthétiser pour la valorisation des terroirs à vin. Les spécialistes de marketing ont toujours simplifié la distinction des producteurs de vins en deux catégories:
– Ceux orientés au produit,
– Ceux orientés au marché.
Dans le premier cas, on travaille pour créer des marchés aux vins existants (traditionnels), tandis que dans le deuxième cas, on vise à produire des vins en fonction des exigences des marchés réels ou potentiels. Selon une optique plus moderne, dynamique et évoluée, il serait bien de s’orienter de plus en plus vers le terroir soit pour réaliser des vins spécifiques, soit pour les valoriser sur des marchés de plus en plus exigeants. Les informations disponibles sur le terroir, son environnement géographique et socio-économique, sont des outils à utiliser afin de cibler la caractérisation et de mettre au point les stratégies et les actions, d’individualiser les éléments de valorisation et de protection du « système terroir » et de stimuler les axes d’innovation dans plusieurs aires d’application. Pour résumer les quelques opportunités de valorisation d’un terroir viticole et des paysages associées, on a proposé une matrice permettant de souligner le fort potentiel disponible. Au cours de l’intervention, on analysera, dans les détails, les croisements les plus importants entre les outils et les aires d’application : par exemple l’emploi des résultats d’un zonage pour caractériser le(s) paysage(s), ou pour mettre au point des stratégies de communication.

DOI:

Publication date: December 22, 2021

Issue: Terroir 2006

Type: Article

Authors

Mario FALCETTI

Secrétaire du groupe d’experts « Zonage vitivinicole » OIV, Paris
Directeur Contadi Castaldi, Franciacorta, Italie
Via Colzano, 32, 25030 Adro, Brescia, Italie

Contact the author

Keywords

terroir, valorisation, marché

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2006

Citation

Related articles…

Copper contamination in vineyard soils of Bordeaux: spatial risk assessment for the replanting of vines and crops

Copper (Cu) is widely and historically used in viticulture as a fungicide against mildew. Cu has a strong affinity for soil organic matter and accumulates in topsoil horizons. Thus, Cu may negatively affect soil organisms and plants, consequently reducing soil fertility and productivity. The Bordeaux vineyards have the largest vineyard surfaces (26%) within French controlled appellation and a great proportion of French wine production (around 5 million hl per year). Considering the local context of vineyard surfaces decreasing (vine uprooting) and possible new crop plantation, the issue of Cu potential toxicity rises. Therefore, the aims of this work are firstly to evaluate the Cu contamination in vineyard soils of Bordeaux, secondly to produce a risk assessment map for new vine or crop plantation. We used soil analyses from several local studies to build a database with 4496 soil horizon samples. The database was enhanced by means of pedotransfer functions in order to estimate the bioaccessible (EDTA-extractable) Cu in soils of samples without measurements. From this database, 1797 georeferenced samples with CuEDTA concentrations in the topsoil (0-50 cm depth) were used for kriging interpolation in order to produce the spatial distribution map of CuEDTA in vineyard soils. Then, the spatial distribution of Cu was crossed with vine uprooting surfaces and municipality boundaries. CuEDTAconcentrations ranged from 0.52 to 459 mg/kg and showed clear anomalies. Our results from spatial analysis showed that almost 50% of vineyard soil surfaces have CuEDTA concentrations higher than 30 mg/kg (moderate risk for new plantation) and 20% with concentrations higher than 50 mg/kg (high risk for new plantation). A decision-support map based on municipalities was realised to provide a simple tool to stakeholders concerned by land use management.

Impact on leaf morphology of Vitis vinifera L. cvs Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon under Free Air Carbon dioxide Enrichment (FACE)

Atmospheric carbon dioxide (CO2) concentration has continuously increased since pre-industrial times from 280 ppm in 1750, and is predicted to exceed 700 ppm by the end of 21st century. For most of C3 plant species elevated CO2 (eCO2) improve photosynthetic apparatus results in an increased plant biomass production. To investigate the effects of eCO2 on morphological leaf characteristics the two Vitis vinifera L. cultivars, Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon, grown in the Geisenheim VineyardFACE (Free Air Carbon dioxide Enrichment) system were used. The FACE site is located at Geisenheim University (49° 59′ N, 7° 57′ E, 94 m above sea level), Germany and was implemented in 2014 comparing future atmospheric CO2-concentrations (eCO2, predicted for the mid-21st century) with current ambient CO2-conditions (aCO2). Experiments were conducted under rain-fed conditions for two consecutive years (2015 and 2016). Six leaves per repetition of the CO2 treatment were sampled in the field and immediately fixed in a FAA solution (ethanol, H2O, formaldehyde and glacial acetic acid). After 24 h leaf samples were transferred and stored in an ethanol solution. Subsequently, leaf tissue was dehydrated using ethanol series and embedded in paraffin. By using a rotary microtomesections of 5 µm were prepared and fixed on microscopic slides. Subsequent the samples were stained using consecutive staining and washing solutions. Afterwards pictures of the leaf cross-sections were taken using a light microscope and consecutive measurements were conducted with an open source image software. Differences found in leaf cross-sections of the two CO2 treatments were detected for the palisade parenchyma. Leaf thickness, upper and lower epidermis and spongy parenchyma remained less affected under eCO2 conditions. The observed results within grapevine leaf tissues can provide first insights to seasonal adaptation strategies of grapevines under future elevated CO2 concentrations.

Legacy of land-cover changes on soil erosion and microbiology in Burgundian vineyards

Soils in vineyards are recognized as complex agrosystems whose characteristics reflect complex interactions between natural factors (lithology, climate, slope, biodiversity) and human activities. To date, most of the unknown lies in an incomplete understanding of soil ecosystems, and specifically in the microbial biodiversity even though soil microbiota is involved in many key functions, such as nutrient cycling and carbon sequestration. Soil biological properties are indicative of soil quality. Therefore, understanding how soil communities are related to soil ecosystem functioning is becoming an essential issue for soil strategy conservation. Here, we propose to assess the importance of land-cover history on the present-day microbiological and physico-chemical properties. The studied area was selected in the Burgundian vineyards (Pernand-Vergelesses, Burgundy, France) where land occupation has been reconstructed over the last 40 years. Soil samples were collected in five areas reflecting various land cover history (forest, vineyards, shifting from forest to vineyards). For each area, physico-chemical parameters (pH, C, N, P, grain size) were measured and DNA was extracted to characterize the abundance and diversity of microbial communities. The obtained results show significant differences in the five areas suggesting that present-day microbial molecular biomass and bacterial taxonomic is partly inherited from past land occupation. Over longer period of time, such study of land-uses legacies may help to better assess ecosystem recovery and the impact of management practices for a better soil quality and vineyards sustainability.

Adapting the vineyard to climate change in warm climate regions with cultural practices

Since the 1980s global regime shift, grape growers have been steadily adapting to a changing climate. These adaptations have preserved the region-climate-cultivar rapports that have established the global trade of wine with lucrative economic benefits since the middle of 17th century. The advent of using fractions of crop and actual evapotranspiration replacement in vineyards with the use of supplemental irrigation has furthered the adaptation of wine grape cultivation. The shift in trellis systems, as well as pruning methods from positioned shoot systems to sprawling canopies, as well as adapting the bearing surface from head-trained, cane-pruned to cordon-trained, spur-pruned systems have also aided in the adaptation of grapevine to warmer temperatures. In warm climates, the use of shade cloth or over-head shade films not only have aided in arresting the damage of heat waves, but also identified opportunities to reduce the evapotranspiration from vineyards, reducing environmental footprint of vineyard. Our increase in knowledge on how best to understand the response of grapevine to climate change was aided with the identification of solar radiation exposure biomarker that is now used for phenotyping cultivars in their adaptability to harsh environments. Using fruit-based metrics such as sugar-flavonoid relationships were shown to be better indicators of losses in berry integrity associated with a warming climate, rather than solely focusing on region-climate-cultivar rapports. The resilience of wine grape was further enhanced by exploitation of rootstock × scion combinations that can resist untoward droughts and warm temperatures by making more resilient grapevine combinations. Our understanding of soil-plant-atmosphere continuum in the vineyard has increased within the last 50 years in such a manner that growers are able to use no-till systems with the aid of arbuscular mycorrhiza fungi inoculation with permanent cover cropping making the vineyard more resilient to droughts and heat waves. In premium wine grape regions viticulture has successfully adapted to a rapidly changing climate thus far, but berry based metrics are raising a concern that we may be approaching a tipping point.

Influence of climatic conditions on grape composition of Tempranillo in La Mancha DO (Spain)

The aim of this work was to analyze the variability in grape composition of the Tempranillo cultivar related to climatic conditions, in La Mancha Designation of Origin. Grape composition (sugar content, total acidity, pH, malic acid, and total and extractable anthocyanins) recorded during ripening, were analysed for the period 2000-2019. The weather conditions at daily time scale, recorded during the same period, were also evaluated. The relationships between grape parameters with climatic variables related to temperature and to water deficits, referring different periods between phenological events along the growing cycle, were evaluated using regression analysis. High variability in grape composition was observed in the period analysed. Total acidity varied between 3.7 and 7.3 gL-1 while malic acid varied between 1.2 and 4 gL-1. The extractable anthocyanins ranged between 526 and 972 mgL-1, and total anthocyanins ranged between 922 and 1388 mgL-1, being the lowest values recorded in the hottest year (2017). Total acidity decreased 0.77 gL-1 for an increase of 100 GDD, while malic acid decrease in 0.42 gL-1 for the same GDD increase, being the period between veraison and harvest the one that seemed to have higher influence on acidity. In addition, it was confirmed that increasing water deficits decreased acidity. Total and extractable anthocyanins increased in about 210 and 105 mgL-1, respectively, with an increase of 100 GDD from veraison to harvest, and the increase in water deficits favour the increase of anthocyanins, both total and extractable anthocyanins. Total and extractable anthocyanins concentration increased in 35 and 22 mgL-1 per an increase of 10 mm in the water deficit. These results can be of interest to understand the potential changes that grapes composition may suffer under future warmer climates.