Terroir 2006 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 International Terroir Conferences 9 Terroir 2006 9 Contributions to the definition of terroir (Terroir 2006) 9 Integration of wine cultivation history for characterizing the terroirs of Côte d’Or (Burgundy, France)

Integration of wine cultivation history for characterizing the terroirs of Côte d’Or (Burgundy, France)

Abstract

Les aires d’appellations de la Côte d’Or résultent d’une sélection humaine empirique, historique et évolutive en adéquation avec les facteurs naturels. Afin de comprendre quels facteurs naturels et humains agissent sur le caractère et l’évolution des terroirs des Côtes de Nuits et de Beaune, une méthodologie de recherche a été développée. Elle s’articule autour de deux axes, la caractérisation physique des lieux-dits viticoles et l’historicité de la qualité de ces lieux-dits. Le travail avec un S.I.G permet d’étudier l’évolution spatiale et temporelle de la qualité. La caractérisation physique des versants viticoles constitue la base de l’étude. Cet axe inclut les données topographiques, géologiques et climatiques. Les données sont extraites des cartes topographiques de l’IGN au 1/25 000, géologiques du BRGM au 1/50 000, et des stations météorologiques de Météo France. Le maillage des stations météorologiques permet de définir un zonage pluviométrique et thermométrique pour les Côtes de Nuits et de Beaune. La délimitation des lieux-dits a été faite à partir des photos aériennes ortho-rectifiées de la mission de 2002.

La notion de « terroir » impliquant elle-même une notion de continuité de la qualité, l’historicité des lieux-dits viticoles a été étudiée à l’aide de plusieurs classements viticoles : trois antérieurs à la crise phylloxérique et un postérieur (I.N.A.O.). Or, les classements sélectionnés ne sont pas édifiés sur les mêmes critères. La spatialisation des niveaux d’appellations et leurs croisements avec les facteurs naturels sont réalisés pour chaque classement. Ces études successives permettent de comparer les influences des facteurs naturels sur chaque type de classement. Afin d’étudier la pérennité de la qualité des lieux-dits depuis le début du XIXe siècle, une carte cumulative des niveaux d’appellation des quatre classements est réalisée. De plus, la qualité gustative actuelle des lieux-dits est évaluée grâce à la compilation de plusieurs notations de guides viticoles internationalement reconnus.

DOI:

Publication date: January 12, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2006

Type: Article

Authors

Anne COMBAUD (1), Jean-Pierre GARCIA (1), Christophe PETIT (2), Romuald PINGUET (2) and Amélie QUIQUEREZ (1)

(1) UMR CNRS 5561 Biogéosciences, 6 bd Gabriel, 21000 Dijon, France
(2) UMR CNRS 5594 Archéologie, cultures et sociétés, 6 bd Gabriel, 21000 Dijon, France

Contact the author

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2006

Citation

Related articles…

Soil, vine, climate change – what is observed – what is expected

To evaluate the current and future impact of climate change on Viticulture requires an integrated view on a complex interacting system within the soil-plant-atmospheric continuum under continuous change. Aside of the globally observed increase in temperature in basically all viticulture regions for at least four decades, we observe several clear trends at the regional level in the ratio of precipitation to potential evapotranspiration. Additionally the recently published 6th assessment report of the IPCC (The physical science basis) shows case-dependent further expected shifts in climate patterns which will have substantial impacts on the way we will conduct viticulture in the decades to come.
Looking beyond climate developments, we observe rising temperatures in the upper soil layers which will have an impact on the distribution of microbial populations, the decay rate of organic matter or the storage capacity for carbon, thus affecting the emission of greenhouse gases (GHGs) and the viscosity of water in the soil-plant pathway, altering the transport of water. If the upper soil layers dry out faster due to less rainfall and/or increased evapotranspiration driven by higher temperatures, the spectral reflection properties of bare soil change and the transport of latent heat into the fruiting zone is increased putting a higher temperature load on the fruit. Interactions between micro-organisms in the rhizosphere and the grapevine root system are poorly understood but respond to environmental factors (such as increased soil temperatures) and the plant material (rootstock for instance), respectively the cultivation system (for example bio-organic versus conventional). This adds to an extremely complex system to manage in terms of increased resilience, adaptation to and even mitigation of climate change. Nevertheless, taken as a whole, effects on the individual expressions of wines with a given origin, seem highly likely to become more apparent.

Grape berry size is a key factor in determining New Zealand Pinot noir wine composition

Making high quality but affordable Pinot noir (PN) wine is challenging in most terroirs and New Zealand’s (NZ) situation is no exception. To increase the probability of making highly typical PN wines producers choose to grow grapes in cool climates on lower fertility soils while adopting labour intensive practices. Stringent yield targets and higher input costs necessarily mean that PN wine cost is high, and profitability lower, in line-priced varietal wine ranges. To understand the reasons why higher yielding vines are perceived to produce wines of lower quality we have undertaken an extensive study of PN in NZ. Since 2018, we established a network of twelve trial sites in three NZ regions to find individual vines that produced acceptable commercial yields (above 2.5kg per vine) and wines of composition comparable to “Icon” labels. Approximately 20% of 660 grape lots (N = 135) were selected from within a narrow juice Total Soluble Solids (TSS) range and made into single vine wines under controlled conditions. Principal Component Analysis of the vine, berry, juice and wine parameters from three vintages found grape berry mass to be most effective clustering variable. As berry mass category decreased there was a systematic increase in the probability of higher berry red colour and total phenolics with a parallel increase in wine phenolics, changed aroma fraction and decreased juice amino acids. The influence of berry size on wine composition would appear stronger than the individual effects of vintage, region, vineyard or vine yield. Our observations support the hypothesis that it is possible to produce PN wines that fall within an “Icon” benchmark composition range at yields above 2.5kg per vine provided that the Leaf Area:Fruit Weight ratio is above 12cm2 per g, mean berry mass is below 1.2g and juice TSS is above 22°Brix.

Teasing apart terroir: the influence of management style on native yeast communities within Oregon wineries and vineyards

Newer sequencing technologies have allowed for the addition of microbes to the story of terroir. The same environmental factors that influence the phenotypic expression of a crop also shape the composition of the microbial communities found on that crop. For fermented goods, such as wine, that microbial community ultimately influences the organoleptic properties of the final product that is delivered to customers. Recent studies have begun to study the biogeography of wine-associated microbes within different growing regions, finding that communities are distinct across landscapes. Despite this new knowledge, there are still many questions about what factors drive these differences. Our goal was to quantify differences in yeast communities due to management style between seven pairs of conventional and biodynamic vineyards (14 in total) throughout Oregon, USA. We wanted to answer the following questions: 1) are yeast communities distinct between biodynamic vineyards and conventional vineyards? 2) are these differences consistent across a large geographic region? 3) can differences in yeast communities be tied to differences in metabolite profiles of the bottled wine? To collect our data we took soil, bark, leaf, and grape samples from within each vineyard from five different vines of pinot noir. We also collected must and a 10º brix sample from each winery. Using these samples, we performed 18S amplicon sequencing to identify the yeast present. We then used metabolomics to characterize the organoleptic compounds present in the bottled wine from the blocks the year that we sampled. We are actively in the process of analysing our data from this study.

Effects of graft quality on growth and grapevine-water relations

Climate change is challenging viticulture worldwide compromising its sustainability due to warmer temperatures and the increased frequency of extreme events. Grafting Vitis vinifera L.

Rootstock regulation of scion phenotypes: the relationship between rootstock parentage and petiole mineral concentration

Grapevine is grown as a graft since the end of the 19th century. Rootstocks not only provide tolerance to Phylloxera but also ensure the supply of water and mineral nutrients to the scion. Rootstocks are an important mean of adaptation to environmental conditions, because the scion controls the typical features of the grapes and wine. However, among the large diversity of rootstocks worldwide, few of them are commercially used in the vineyard. The aim of this study was to investigate the extent to which rootstocks modify the mineral composition of the petioles of the scion. Vitis vinifera cvs. Cabernet-Sauvignon, Pinot noir, Syrah and Ugni blanc were grafted onto 55 different rootstock genotypes and planted in a vineyard as three replicates of 5 vines. Petioles were collected in the cluster zone with 6 replicates per combination. Petiolar concentrations of 13 mineral elements (N, P, K, S, Mg, Ca, Na, B, Zn, Mn, Fe, Cu, Al) at veraison were determined. Scion, rootstock and the interaction explained the same proportion of the phenotypic variance for most mineral elements. Rootstock genotype showed a significant influence on the petiole mineral element composition. Rootstock effect explained from 7 % for Cu to 25 % for S of the variance. The difference of rootstock conferred mineral status is discussed in relation to vigor and fertility. Rootstocks were also genotyped with 23 microsatellite markers. Data were analysed according to genetic groups in order to determine whether the petiole mineral composition could be related to the genetic parentage of the rootstock. Thanks to a highly powerful design, it is the first time that such a large panel of rootstocks grafted with 4 scions has been studied. These results give the opportunity to better characterize the rootstocks and to enlarge the diversity used in the vineyard.