Wine growing terroirs: management of potential. New issues at stake for AOCs in France

Une variable composite, dénommée Indice de Site (SI), intégrant les propriétés physiques du sol et le mésoclimat, avait été proposée pour caractériser les terroirs dans le cadre d’une étude des vignobles de Cabernet Sauvignon de Hawke’s Bay en Nouvelle Zélande.

PAs are compartmentalised within the grape berry, and differ in their composition and degree of extractability. Within each compartment, the CWM limits PA extraction firstly by its degree of permeability and secondly its ability to complex with PA molecules.

Vines require proper light levels, temperature, and water availability, and climate change is modifying these factors, hampering yield and quality. Despite the large diversity of rootstocks, varieties, and clones, we still lack knowledge of their combined effects and potential role in a warmer and dryer future. Therefore, we aim to characterize some of the existing diversity of rootstocks and genotypes and their interaction at the eco-physiological level, combining stomatal conductance (gs) and chlorophyll a fluorescence analysis.

Current climate change is increasing inter- and intra-annual variability in atmospheric conditions leading to grapevine phenological shifts as well altered grape ripening and composition at ripeness. This study aims to (i) detect weather anomalies within a long-term time series, (ii) model grape ripening revealing altered traits in time to target specific ripeness thresholds for four Vitis vinifera cultivars, and (iii) establish empirical relationships between ripening and weather anomalies with forecasting purposes. The Day of the Year (DOY) to reach specific grape ripeness targets was determined from time series of sugar concentrations, total acidity and pH collected from a private company in the period 2009-2021 in North-Eastern Italy. Non-linear models for the DOY to reach the specified ripeness thresholds were assessed for model efficiency (EF) and error of prediction (RMSE) in four grapevine cultivars (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Glera and Garganega). For each vintage and cultivar, advances or delays in DOY to target specified ripeness thresholds were assessed with respect to the average ripening dynamics. Long-term meteorological series monitored at ground weather station by means of hourly air temperature and rainfall data were analyzed. Climate statistics were obtained and for each time period (month, bimester, quarter and year) weather anomalies were identified. A linear regression analysis was performed to assess a possible correlation that may exist between ripening and weather anomalies. For each cultivar, ripeness advances or delays expressed in number of days to target the specific ripening threshold were assessed in relation to registered weather anomalies and the specific reference time period in the vintage. Precipitation of the warmest month and spring quarter are key to understanding the effect of climate change on sugar ripeness. Minimum temperatures of May-June bimester and maximum temperatures of spring quarter best correlate with altered total acidity evolution and pH increment during the ripening process, respectively.

Recently, the European Commission seems to have inaugurated a new mechanism for regulating the wine sector. Through two communications, articulated in the form of “Questions & Answers”, concerning the new rules for labeling (24.11.2023) and dealcoholization of wine (15.01.2024), the Commission is not simply “explaining” the new rules but, in an approach close to the theory of “Circulaire Normative” established in comparative law, chooses among different interpretations and even adds Praeter Legem constraints.