Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Study and valorization of vineyards “terroirs” in the Val de Loire

Study and valorization of vineyards “terroirs” in the Val de Loire

Abstract

[English version below]

Face à la concurrence mondiale, il est indispensable de s’orienter vers des vins de qualité, marqués par une typicité et une authenticité inimitables. Le terroir représente, pour une région donnée, un patrimoine unique et non reproductible, qui peut être valorisé à travers l’origine et les caractéristiques sensorielles du vin. Depuis une quinzaine d’années, l’UW du Centre INRA d’Angers développe un programme d’étude sur la Connaissance, l’Influence et la Gestion optimisée des Terroirs viticoles. Une méthode locale de cartographie des terroirs viticoles a été élaborée, basée sur le concept d’Unité Terroir de Base (UTB), identifiée par l’étage géologique, la nature de la roche mère géologique, son degré d’altération et la profondeur du sol. La cartographie est réalisée avec une tarière à main de 1.20 m, à raison d’un sondage/ha en moyenne. Les résultats sont restitués sous forme d’atlas cartographiques communaux, utilisables directement par les techniciens et les vignerons, à la vigne (cartes conseils pour le choix du cépage, du porte-greffe, des pratiques agro-viticoles) et en cave (adaptation des pratiques œnologiques au terroir de chaque parcelle). À partir de ces données, la cave coopérative des Caves de la Loire, installée à Brissac (France) a réalisé pour chaque adhérent. Toutes les opérations réalisées à la vigne y sont enregistrées ce qui conduit à assurer une traçabilité. À chaque livraison de vendange, un «code parcelle» permet d’orienter la vendange en fonction du potentiel œnologique conféré par le terroir aux raisins permettant une vinification par UTB. Cela a permis d’optimiser l’effet terroir sur le vin, et donc, d’obtenir des vins plus qualitatifs, commercialisés sous un label. Une communication forte et originale sur le produit s’est d’ores et déjà installée au profit de toute la filière viticole angevine.

In the current context of market competition, the future of many French vineyards of controlled appellation of origin lies in their capacity to produce wines presenting a genuine typicity and authenticity. The terroir represent a unique and irreproducible patrimony that can be valorized through the origins and the sensory characteristics of the wines. For the last 15 years, the UW of the Centre INRA of Angers has worked on the knowledge, the influence and the optimized management of vineyard terroirs. The study is based on a local method of soil characterization called “Basic Terroirs Units” (UTB concept), taking into account the geological stage, the bed-rock’s nature, its degree of alteration and the soil depth as principal keys of identification. The scale study is 1/12500. The concrete valorization of the work is to produce cartographic atlases for the disposal of the winegrowers. These atlases present some advisory maps in order to adapt both the cultural practices (choice of the grape vine-variety, rootstocks and soil management) and the enological practices, according to the terroir. From these results, a cooperative wine cellar “Les Caves de la Loire” realized a personal file for each member. Every operation executed in the vineyard is registered (tracability). At the time of vintage, a «parcel code » allows to orient the vintage according to the enological potential induced by the terroir to the grapes,(vinification by UTB). This study has already permit to optimize the “terroir effect”, and consequently, to improve the quality of the wines, commercialized with a label. The subject is already in place for the benefice of the whole Anjou wine business.

DOI:

Publication date: February 15, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2002

Type: Article

Authors

E. BESNARD, E .GOULET, D. RIOUX, S. CESBRON, C. MEINEN and R. MORLAT

Cellule “Terroirs Viticoles” – Chambre Régionale d’Agriculture des Pays de la Loire, Avenue Joxé, 49000 ANGERS
Les Caves de la Loire – Route de Vauchrétien, 49320 BRISSAC QUINCE
Unité Vigne et Vin (UW) – Centre INRA d’Angers – 42 rue Georges Morel – 49070 BEAUCOUZE

Keywords

Terroirs viticoles, Cartographie, Unités Terroirs de Base, Val de Loire, Valorisation, Typicité des vins
Vineyard Terroirs, Cartography, Basic Terroirs Units, Val de Loire, Valorization, Wine typicity

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2002

Citation

Related articles…

The effects of alternative herbicide free cover cropping systems on soil health, vine performance, berry quality and vineyard biodiversity in a climate change scenario in Switzerland

There is an urgent need in viticulture to adopt alternative herbicide-free soil management strategies to mitigate climate change, increase biodiversity, reduce plant protection products and improve soil quality while minimizing detrimental effects on grapevine’s stress tolerance and fruit quality. To propose sustainable solutions, adapted to different pedoclimatic conditions in Switzerland, we developed a multidisciplinary 4-year project, started in 2020. Objectives of the project are to a) evaluate the impact of green covers (spontaneous flora, winter cover crop and permanent ground cover) on environmental and agronomic parameters and b) develop subsequently innovative strategies for different viticultural contexts of Switzerland. The project is divided into 3 phases: 1) diagnosis, 2) on-farm and 3) on-station experiments. Phase 1) consisted in an assessment of 30 commercial vineyards all over Switzerland, where growers already use different herbicide-free soil management strategies. The most promising practices identified in this exploratory phase will be replicated in commercial vineyards across Switzerland (“on-farm”) as well as in a classical randomized block design in an experimental plot (“on-station”). For phase 1), measurements consisted in evaluation of soil status (compaction, structure, roots development), soil microbial diversity (metagenomics), plant diversity and biomass, vine physiology (water stress, vigor, leaf nitrogen) and berry quality (acidity, sugar, available nitrogen). Interestingly, the permanent ground cover resulted in a higher Shannon index thus a higher biodiversity as compared to the other itineraries. The winter cover crop increased vine nitrogen and vigor while deteriorating soil quality, leaving the soil more exposed and compacted likely due to more frequent tillage. The spontaneous flora led to higher berry sugar accumulation, less nitrogen and higher malic acid concentration putatively due to a higher water retention of the flora in a particularly wet vintage. Phases 2) and 3) are required to confirm those tendencies, over the 3 next vintages and different climatic conditions.

Biodiversity in the vineyard agroecosystem: exploring systemic approaches

Biodiversity conservation and restoration are essential for guarantee the provision of ecosystem services associated to vineyard agroecosystem such as climate regulation trough carbon sequestration and control of pests and diseases. Most of published research dealing with the complexity of the vineyard agroecosystems emphasizes the necessity of innovative approaches, including the integration of information at different temporal and spatial scales and development of systemic analysis based on modelling. A biodiversity survey was conducted in the Franciacorta wine-growing area (Lombardy, Italy), one of the most important Italian wine-growing regions for sparkling wine production, considering a portion of the territory of 112 ha. The area was divided into several Environmental Units (EUs), defined as a whole vineyard or portion of vineyard homogenous in terms of four agronomic characteristics: planting year, planting density, cultivar, and training system. In each EU a set of compartments was identified and characterised by specific variables. The compartments are meteorology, morphology (altitude, slope, aspect, row orientation, and solar irradiance), ecological infrastructures and management. The landscape surrounding EU was also characterised in terms of land-use in a buffer zone of 500 m. For each component a specific methodology was identified and applied. Different statistical approaches were used to evaluate the method to integrate the information related to different compartments within the EU and related to the buffer zone. These approaches were also preliminarily evaluated for their ability to describe the contribution of biodiversity and landscape components to ecosystem services. This methodological exploration provides useful indication for the development of a fully systemic approach to structural and functional biodiversity in vineyard agroecosystems, contributing to promote a multifunctional perspective for the all wine-growing sector.

Deconstructing the soil component of terroir: from controversy to consensus

Wine terroir describes the collectively recognized relation between a geographical area and the distinctive organoleptic characteristics of the wines produced in it. The overriding objective in terroir studies is therefore to provide scientific proof relating the properties of terroir components to wine quality and typicity. In scientific circles, the role of climate (macro-, meso- and micro-) on grape and wine characteristics is well documented and accepted as the most critical. Moreover, there has been increasing interest in recent years about new elements with possible importance in shaping wine terroir like berry/leaf/soil microbiology or even aromatic plants in proximity to the vineyard conferring flavors to the grapes. However, the actual effect of these factors is also dependent on complex interactions with plant material (variety/clone, rootstock, vine age) and with human factors.
The contribution of soil, although a fundamental component of terroir and extremely popular among wine enthusiasts, remains a much-debated issue among researchers. The role of geology is probably the one mostly associated by consumers with the notion of terroir with different parent rocks considered to give birth to different wine styles. However, the relationship between wine properties and the underlying parent material raises a lot of controversy especially regarding the actual existence of rock-derived flavors in the wine (e.g. minerality). As far as the actual soil properties are concerned, the effect of soil physical properties is generally regarded as the most significant (e.g sandy soils being associated with lighter wines while those on clay with colored and tannic ones) mostly through control of water availability which ultimately modifies berry ripening conditions either directly by triggering biosynthetic pathways, or indirectly by altering vigor and yield components. The role of soil chemistry seems to be weakly associated to wine sensory characteristic, although N, K, S and Ca, but also soil pH, are often considered important in the overall soil effect.
Recently, in the light of evidence provided by precision agriculture studies reporting a high variability of vineyard soils, the spatial scale should also be taken into consideration in the evaluation of the soil effects on wines. While it is accepted that soil effects become more significant than climate on a local level, it is not clear whether these micro-variations of vineyard soils are determining in the terroir effect. Moreover, as terroir is not a set of only natural factors, the magnitude of the contribution of human-related factors (irrigation, fertilization, soil management) to the soil effect still remains ambiguous. Lastly, a major shortcoming of the majority of works about soil effects on wine characteristics is the absence of connection with actual vine physiological processes since all soil effects on grape and wine chemistry and sensorial properties are ultimately mediated through vine responses.
This article attempts to breakdown the main soil attributes involved in the terroir effect to suggest an improved understanding about soil’s true contribution to wine sensory characteristics. It is proposed that soil parameters per se are not as significant determining factors in the terroir effect but rather their mutual interactions as well as with other natural and human factors included in the terroir concept. Consequently, similarly to bioclimatic indices, composite soil indices (i.e. soil depth, water holding capacity, fertility, temperature etc), incorporating multiple soil parameters, might provide a more accurate and quantifiable means to assess the relative weight of the soil component in the terroir effect.

Green berries on Gewürztraminer (Vitis vinifera L.) in South Tyrol (Italy)

The grape variety Gewürztraminer is known to be affected by two physiological disorders namely berry shrivel and bunch stem necrosis. During the season 2014 we noticed a new symptomatology type of ripening disorder on the variety. The new symptom showed not all berries fallowing the normal maturation stages, but single berries remaining at a soft but green stage till harvest. The broad distribution of these so called “green berries” symptoms in different production sites of our region, caused huge damage due to the difficulty of eliminating single berries per bunch before harvesting. Therefore, the Research Centre Laimburg began to investigate the reasons and origins of this new symptom. This work shows the results of first attempts to find causes for the symptom as well as the resulting approach to mitigate symptoms. Applications of magnesium leaf fertilizer showed first promising results against this putative disorder. To study the causal effect of the green berries 30 symptomatic vineyards in 2014 have been selected for a monitoring during the season 2016. To evaluate the foliar nutrient treatment two vineyards have been selected for application of magnesium sulfate and magnesium chloride. Leaf and berry nutrient analysis, as well as the main quality parameters during ripening have been performed. As soon as “green berries” symptoms appeared, incidence and severity have been evaluated. Most of the symptomatic vineyards of the 2016 monitoring showed light to clear magnesium deficit symptoms on their foliage. Only during the seasons 2020 and 2021 “green berries” symptoms could be found in the leaf fertilizer treatment vineyards. Both seasons showed a significant effect of the magnesium treatments to reduce the incidence and severity of the symptom. It seems that the appearance of the “green berries” symptom on Gewürztraminer is correlated to a disturbed uptake of magnesium of the vines.

Amino nitrogen content in grapes: the impact of crop limitation

As an essential element for grapevine development and yield, nitrogen is also involved in the winemaking process and largely affects wine composition. Grape must amino nitrogen deficiency affects the alcoholic fermentation kinetics and alters the development of wine aroma precursors. It is therefore essential to control and optimize nitrogen use efficiency by the plant to guarantee suitable grape nitrogen composition at harvest. Understanding the impact of environmental conditions and cultural practices on the plant nitrogen metabolism would allow us to better orientate our technical choices with the objective of quality and sustainability (less inputs, higher efficiency). This trial focuses on the impact of crop limitation – that is a common practice in European viticulture – on nitrogen distribution in the plant and particularly on grape nitrogen composition. A wide gradient of crop load was set up in a homogeneous plot of Chasselas (Vitis vinifera) in the experimental vineyard of Agroscope, Switzerland. Dry weight and nitrogen dynamics were monitored in the roots, trunk, canopy and grapes, during two consecutive years, using a 15N-labeling method. Grape amino nitrogen content was assessed in both years, at veraison and at harvest. The close relationship between fruits and roots in the maintenance of plant nitrogen balance was highlighted. Interestingly, grape nitrogen concentration remained unchanged regardless of crop load to the detriment of the growth and nitrogen content of the roots. Meanwhile, the size and the nitrogen concentration of the canopy were not affected. Leaf gas exchange rates were reduced in response to lower yield conditions, reducing carbon and nitrogen assimilation and increasing intrinsic water use efficiency. The must amino nitrogen profiles could be discriminated as a function of crop load. These findings demonstrate the impact of plant balance on grape nitrogen composition and contribute to the improvement of predictive models and sustainable cultural practices in perennial crops.