Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Study and valorization of vineyards “terroirs” in the Val de Loire

Study and valorization of vineyards “terroirs” in the Val de Loire

Abstract

[English version below]

Face à la concurrence mondiale, il est indispensable de s’orienter vers des vins de qualité, marqués par une typicité et une authenticité inimitables. Le terroir représente, pour une région donnée, un patrimoine unique et non reproductible, qui peut être valorisé à travers l’origine et les caractéristiques sensorielles du vin. Depuis une quinzaine d’années, l’UW du Centre INRA d’Angers développe un programme d’étude sur la Connaissance, l’Influence et la Gestion optimisée des Terroirs viticoles. Une méthode locale de cartographie des terroirs viticoles a été élaborée, basée sur le concept d’Unité Terroir de Base (UTB), identifiée par l’étage géologique, la nature de la roche mère géologique, son degré d’altération et la profondeur du sol. La cartographie est réalisée avec une tarière à main de 1.20 m, à raison d’un sondage/ha en moyenne. Les résultats sont restitués sous forme d’atlas cartographiques communaux, utilisables directement par les techniciens et les vignerons, à la vigne (cartes conseils pour le choix du cépage, du porte-greffe, des pratiques agro-viticoles) et en cave (adaptation des pratiques œnologiques au terroir de chaque parcelle). À partir de ces données, la cave coopérative des Caves de la Loire, installée à Brissac (France) a réalisé pour chaque adhérent. Toutes les opérations réalisées à la vigne y sont enregistrées ce qui conduit à assurer une traçabilité. À chaque livraison de vendange, un «code parcelle» permet d’orienter la vendange en fonction du potentiel œnologique conféré par le terroir aux raisins permettant une vinification par UTB. Cela a permis d’optimiser l’effet terroir sur le vin, et donc, d’obtenir des vins plus qualitatifs, commercialisés sous un label. Une communication forte et originale sur le produit s’est d’ores et déjà installée au profit de toute la filière viticole angevine.

In the current context of market competition, the future of many French vineyards of controlled appellation of origin lies in their capacity to produce wines presenting a genuine typicity and authenticity. The terroir represent a unique and irreproducible patrimony that can be valorized through the origins and the sensory characteristics of the wines. For the last 15 years, the UW of the Centre INRA of Angers has worked on the knowledge, the influence and the optimized management of vineyard terroirs. The study is based on a local method of soil characterization called “Basic Terroirs Units” (UTB concept), taking into account the geological stage, the bed-rock’s nature, its degree of alteration and the soil depth as principal keys of identification. The scale study is 1/12500. The concrete valorization of the work is to produce cartographic atlases for the disposal of the winegrowers. These atlases present some advisory maps in order to adapt both the cultural practices (choice of the grape vine-variety, rootstocks and soil management) and the enological practices, according to the terroir. From these results, a cooperative wine cellar “Les Caves de la Loire” realized a personal file for each member. Every operation executed in the vineyard is registered (tracability). At the time of vintage, a «parcel code » allows to orient the vintage according to the enological potential induced by the terroir to the grapes,(vinification by UTB). This study has already permit to optimize the “terroir effect”, and consequently, to improve the quality of the wines, commercialized with a label. The subject is already in place for the benefice of the whole Anjou wine business.

DOI:

Publication date: February 15, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2002

Type: Article

Authors

E. BESNARD, E .GOULET, D. RIOUX, S. CESBRON, C. MEINEN and R. MORLAT

Cellule “Terroirs Viticoles” – Chambre Régionale d’Agriculture des Pays de la Loire, Avenue Joxé, 49000 ANGERS
Les Caves de la Loire – Route de Vauchrétien, 49320 BRISSAC QUINCE
Unité Vigne et Vin (UW) – Centre INRA d’Angers – 42 rue Georges Morel – 49070 BEAUCOUZE

Keywords

Terroirs viticoles, Cartographie, Unités Terroirs de Base, Val de Loire, Valorisation, Typicité des vins
Vineyard Terroirs, Cartography, Basic Terroirs Units, Val de Loire, Valorization, Wine typicity

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2002

Citation

Related articles…

What are the optimal ranges and thresholds for berry solar radiation for flavonoid biosynthesis?

In wine grape production, canopy management practices are applied to control the source-sink balance and improve the cluster microclimate to enhance berry composition. The aim of this study was to identify the optimal ranges of berry solar radiation exposure (exposure) for upregulation of flavonoid biosynthesis and thresholds for their degradation, to evaluate how canopy management practices such as leaf removal, shoot thinning, and a combination of both affect the grapevine (Vitis vinifera L. cv. Cabernet Sauvignon) yield components, berry composition, and flavonoid profile under context of climate change. First experiment assessed changes in the grape flavonoid content driven by four degrees of exposure. In the second experiment, individual grape berries subjected to different exposures were collected from two cultivars (Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot). The third experiment consisted of an experiment with three canopy management treatments (i) LR (removal of 5 to 6 basal leaves), (ii) ST (thinned to 24 shoots per vine), and (iii) LRST (a combination of LR and ST) and an untreated control (UNT). Berry composition, flavonoid content and profiles, and 3-isobutyl 2-methoxypyrazine were monitored during berry ripening. Although increasing canopy porosity through canopy management practices can be helpful for other purposes, this may not be the case of flavonoid compounds when a certain proportion of kaempferol was achieved. Our results revealed different sensitivities to degradation within the flavonoid groups, flavonols being the only monitored group that was upregulated by solar radiation. Within different canopy management practices, the main effects were due to the ST. Under environmental conditions given in this trial, ST and LRST hastened fruit maturity; however, a clear improvement of the flavonoid compounds (i.e., greater anthocyanin) was not observed at harvest. Methoxypyrazine berry content decreased with canopy management practices studied. Although some berry traits were improved (i.e. 2.5° Brix increase in berry total soluble solids) due to canopy management practices (ST), this resulted in a four-fold increase in labor operations cost, two-fold decrease in yield with a 10-fold increase in anthocyanin production cost per hectare that should be assessed together as the climate continues to get hot.

Better understand the soil wet bulb formation with subsurface or aerial drip irrigation in viticulture

The gradual change in rainfall patterns experienced in the south of France vineyards, especially around the Mediterranean sea, means that the vines are increasingly subject to summer drought. The winegrowers developped the use of irrigation techniques to ensure the maintenance of competitive yields in the production of wines under Protected Geographical Indication label. In practice, drip irrigation pipes can be installed above the ground or buried into the soil as well as at different distances from the vine row. The objective of this study was to examine the profiles of the wet bulbs of the soil obtained from two drip irrigation systems : aerial drip located under the vine row and subsurface drip placed in the middle of the inter-row. This experiment took place over two consecutive seasons (2020-2021) on a 3.4 ha Viognier plot in the Mediterranean region (PGI Oc, France) on sandy clay soil. The annual rainfalls were less than 400 mm. Soil water content probes were installed at different depths (20 – 40 – 60 – 80 cm) and at different lateralities from the vine row (30 – 60 – 90 – 120 cm) to control the formation of the soil wet bulb during irrigation. The mapping and the analysis of the data allowed a better understanding and differentiation of the water percolation when irrigating with subsurface or aerial drip. For the same amount of water and without differences of vine water status, it is shown that in a subsurface drip irrigation situation, the size of the wet bulb formed is larger than in aerial drip irrigation system.

Impact on leaf morphology of Vitis vinifera L. cvs Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon under Free Air Carbon dioxide Enrichment (FACE)

Atmospheric carbon dioxide (CO2) concentration has continuously increased since pre-industrial times from 280 ppm in 1750, and is predicted to exceed 700 ppm by the end of 21st century. For most of C3 plant species elevated CO2 (eCO2) improve photosynthetic apparatus results in an increased plant biomass production. To investigate the effects of eCO2 on morphological leaf characteristics the two Vitis vinifera L. cultivars, Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon, grown in the Geisenheim VineyardFACE (Free Air Carbon dioxide Enrichment) system were used. The FACE site is located at Geisenheim University (49° 59′ N, 7° 57′ E, 94 m above sea level), Germany and was implemented in 2014 comparing future atmospheric CO2-concentrations (eCO2, predicted for the mid-21st century) with current ambient CO2-conditions (aCO2). Experiments were conducted under rain-fed conditions for two consecutive years (2015 and 2016). Six leaves per repetition of the CO2 treatment were sampled in the field and immediately fixed in a FAA solution (ethanol, H2O, formaldehyde and glacial acetic acid). After 24 h leaf samples were transferred and stored in an ethanol solution. Subsequently, leaf tissue was dehydrated using ethanol series and embedded in paraffin. By using a rotary microtomesections of 5 µm were prepared and fixed on microscopic slides. Subsequent the samples were stained using consecutive staining and washing solutions. Afterwards pictures of the leaf cross-sections were taken using a light microscope and consecutive measurements were conducted with an open source image software. Differences found in leaf cross-sections of the two CO2 treatments were detected for the palisade parenchyma. Leaf thickness, upper and lower epidermis and spongy parenchyma remained less affected under eCO2 conditions. The observed results within grapevine leaf tissues can provide first insights to seasonal adaptation strategies of grapevines under future elevated CO2 concentrations.

Climate ethnography and wine environmental futures

Globalisation and climate change have radically transformed world wine production upsetting the established order of wine ecologies. Ecological risks and the future of traditional agricultural systems are widely debated in anthropology, but very little is understood of the particular challenges posed by climate change to viticulture which is seen by many as the canary in the coalmine of global agriculture. Moreover, wine as a globalised embedded commodity provides a particularly telling example for the study of climate change having already attracted early scientific attention. Studies of climate change in viticulture have focused primarily on the production of systematic models of adaptation and vulnerability, while the human and cultural factors, which are key to adaptation and sustainable futures, are largely missing. Climate experts have been unanimous in recognising the urgent need for a better understanding of the complex dynamics that shape how climate change is experienced and responded to by human systems. Yet this call has not yet been addressed. Climate ethnography, coined by the anthropologist Susan Crate (2011), aims to bridge this growing disjuncture between climate science and everyday life through the exploration of the social meaning of climate change. It seeks to investigate the confrontation of its social salience in different locations and under different environmental guises (Goodman 2018: 340). By understanding how wine producers make sense of the world (and the environment) and act in it, it proposes to focus on the co-production of interdisciplinary knowledge by identifying and foreshadowing problems (Goodman 2018: 342; Goodman & Marshall 2018). It seeks to offer an original, transformative and contrasted perspective to climate change scenarios by investigating human agency -individual or collective- in all its social, political and cultural diversity. An anthropological approach founded on detailed ethnographies of wine production is ideally placed to address economic, social and cultural disruptions caused by the emergence of these new environmental challenges. Indeed, the community of experts in environmental change have recently called for research that will encompass the human dimension and for more broad-based, integrated through interdisciplinarity, useful knowledge (Castree & al 2014). My paper seeks to engage with climate ethnography and discuss what it brings to the study of wine environmental futures while exploring the limitations of the anthropological environmental approach.

Climate change impacts on Douro Region viticulture and adaptation measures

Climate has a significant impact in the success of any agricultural system, with a direct influence on the crops suitability to a given region, interfering on yield and quality and also with the economic sustainability of the productive activity. In the Douro Demarcated Region (RDD), as in most regions of the Mediterranean climate, the scarce precipitation (33% has less than 600 mm per year), and your high variability, associated with high rates of evapotranspiration during the summer, is usually one of the fundamental factors that limit the grapevine development, as well as the production and quality of the harvest. Thus, facing the scenario in temperature changes for the next decades (1.5-2.5°C) and confirming the predictions of precipitation decreases and/or great variability in the occurrence of heat waves and intense rainfall, the consequences for slope stability in mountain viticulture and sustainability of all operations involved, are risks to be taken into account. In this way, a deepest and sustained knowledge regarding the adaptation measures to adverse environmental conditions is of a crucial importance, enabling a more efficient adaptation of plant growth conditions and the optimization of production and quality of the grapevines. The development of this work, carried out in two commercial vineyards, one located in Soutelo do Douro, São João da Pesqueira, Cima Corgo sub-region, and another located in Numão, Vila Nova de Foz Côa, Douro Superior sub-region, it seeks to establish a relationship between climatic elements and physiological, productive and qualitative parameters, as well as to evaluate the effectiveness of adaptation measures, including different types of deficit irrigation (2002-2019) and the application of shading nets (2019-2020) in the physiological, viticultural and oenological behavior in the Touriga Nacional and Moscatel Galego Branco varieties, respectively. The results showed that the application of deficit irrigation allowed to significantly reduce the impact of the adverse weather conditions at key moments in the development of the grapevine, particularly in the period immediately before veráison and maturation, reducing the negative effects on the physiological processes and productivity, without compromise the must quality parameters. On the other hand, the application of shading nets significantly reduced de leaves temperature, allowing to increase the water potential, stomatal conductance and photosynthetic rate of grapes, which was reflected in the yield increase in the 2nd year of the study. For the maturation indicators, higher levels of total acidity, malic acid and assimilable nitrogen were obtained. The last measure presents a huge potential, being essential to carry out more years of trials to obtain stronger conclusions in terms of production parameters, but also in characteristics as important as the grape ripening components and the organoleptic characteristics of wines.