Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 « Wine routes »: a collective brand to build a wine reputation on the basis of terroir and landscapes

« Wine routes »: a collective brand to build a wine reputation on the basis of terroir and landscapes

Abstract

[English version below]

Le marché international du vin est désormais tourné vers la qualité et les vignobles de vin de masse se transforment pour construire la qualité et la réputation de leurs produits. Cette construction s’appuie notamment sur la valorisation de ressources territoriales de nature physique (terroir, pacage, écosystème) et humaine (savoir-faire, culture, patrimoine…). Les « Routes des Vins » sont des exemples concrets de ces processus de «territorialisation», combinant ces ressources territoriales pour communiquer sur l’ancrage géographique et la spécificité des vins. Les «Routes des Vins» émergentes, observées dans les régions vitivinicoles en transition vers la qualité, en Languedoc Roussillon, à Mendoza (Argentine) et au Western Cape (Afrique du Sud), participent souvent à la valorisation des terroirs, en organisant un itinéraire sur le territoire associé, en faisant découvrir les vins «de qualité», les paysages, les pratiques et le savoir-faire associés à leur élaboration.

Cette communication propose d’analyser les relations entre les «Routes des Vins» observées dans ces trois régions de «l’Ancien et du Nouveau Monde » et la valorisation des terroirs viticoles. Nous montrons d’abord l’importance que prennent les routes des vins, associées au tourisme viticole dans la construction de la réputation des vins. Ensuite, nous analysons la double relation entre les routes des vins et le zonage viti-vinicole. Nous présentons enfin différents types de routes des vins selon leurs relations au territoire.

In the wine sector, prompted by changes in consumption and international trade, mass wine production is being transformed into a quality wine system. Improving the wine quality and establishing its reputation are based on the valorization of territorial resources – geographic (terroir, landscape, ecosystem) and human (savoir faire, culture). This process can be traced through the construction of “wine routes”. Indeed, the emerging “wine routes” in Languedoc Roussillon, Mendoza (Argentina) and the Western Cape (South Africa) are contributing to the process of “zoning”, by organizing an itinerary inside the area of appellation, through the production of quality wines associated with local landscapes and specific production practices.

This paper analyses the relation between the establishment of “wine routes” and zoning issues, in both Old and New World wine regions. In Languedoc Roussillon, Mendoza as well as the Western Cape, we investigate the reciprocal relations between wine routes and the valorization of zoning. Flowing from this analysis we present a typology of wine routes based on their relation to territorial resources.

DOI:

Publication date: February 15, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2002

Type: Article

Authors

Emilie VANDECANDELAERE (1), Joachim EWERT (2)

(1) ENESAD INRA SAD, UMR Innovation, 2 Place Viala, 34060 Montpellier cedex 2
(2) Department of Sociology, Private bag XI Matieland 7602 University of Stellenbosch, Stellenbosch, South Africa

Contact the author

Keywords

Route des Vins, terroir, paysage, structure de coordination
wine route, terroir, landscape, co-ordination structures

Tags

Terroir 2002

Citation

Related articles…

Bioclimatic shifts and land use options for Viticulture in Portugal

Land use, plays a relevant role in the climatic system. It endows means for agriculture practices thus contributing to the food supply. Since climate and land are closely intertwined through multiple interface processes, climate change may lead to significant impacts in land use. In this study, 1-km observational gridded datasets are used to assess changes in the Köppen–Geiger and Worldwide Bioclimatic (WBCS)

Impact of geographical location on the phenolic profile of minority varieties grown in Spain. II: red grapevines

Because terroir and cultivar are drivers of wine quality, is essential to investigate theirs effects on polyphenolic profile before promoting the implantation of a red minority variety in a specific area. This work, included in MINORVIN project, focuses in the polyphenolic profile of 7 red grapevines minority varieties of Vitis vinifera L. (Morate, Sanguina, Santafe, Terriza Tinta Jeromo Tortozona Tinta) and Tempranillo) from six typical viticulture Spanish areas: Aragón (A1), Cataluña (A2), Castilla la Mancha (A3), Castilla –León (A4), Madrid (A5) and Navarra (A6) of 2020 season. Polyphenolic substances were extracted from grapes. 35 compounds were identified and quantified (mg subtance/kg fresh berry) by HPLC and grouped in anthocyanins (ANT) flavanols (FLAVA), flavonols (FLAVO), hydroxycinnamic (AH), benzoic (BA) acids and stilbenes (ST). Antioxidant activity (AA, mmol TE /g fresh berry) was determined by DPPH method. The results were submitted to a two-way ANOVA to investigate the influence of variety, area and their interaction for each polyphenolic family and cluster analysis was used to construct hierarchical dendrograms, searching the natural groupings among the samples. Sanguina (A3) had the most of total polyphenols while Tempranillo (A5) those of ANT. Sanguina (A2) and (A3) reached the highest values of FLAVO, FLAVA and AA. These two last samples had also the maximum of AA. The effect cultivar and area were significant for all polyphenolic families analyzed. A high variability due to variety (>50%) was observed in FLAVA and the maximum value of variability due to growing area was detected in AA (86.41%), ANT and FLAVO (51%); the interaction variety*zone was significant only for ANT, FLAVO, EST and AA. Finally, dendrograms presented five cluster: i) Sanguina (A2); ii) Sanguina (A3); iii) Tempranillo (A5); iv) Tempranillo (A3); Terriza (A3,A5), Morate (A5,A6); v) Santafé (A1,A6); Tortozona tinta (A1,A3,A6); Tinta Jeromo (A3,A4).

Influence of a spontaneous cover crop on the vineyard and soil erosion under Mediterranean climate

Sixty five % of the agricultural area of the Basque Country located in the DO Ca Rioja corresponds to vineyards. More than 40% of it has an average slope greater than 10%, which makes it sensitive to erosive processes. Furthermore, it is foreseeable that extreme weather events (storms, hail, extreme heat and cold, etc.) will be favored due to climate change. Cover cropping can mitigate this risk, and therefore the objective of this work is to evaluate the impact that a vegetable cover has on the agronomic behavior of the vineyard, the quality of the grape and soil erosion. For this, a trial has been carried out with a Graciano variety vineyard with a slope between 10% -20% during the years 2020 and 2021. Conventional tillage management in the area has been compared (4-6 passes per year of tillage machinery) versus spontaneous vegetation cover management in the vineyard. This implies not tilling and allowing the grass of the land to colonize the range between the lines of vines, controlling their height through 1-3 mowing passes per year, always trying to affect the surface of the land as little as possible. The vegetative growth, yield and quality of the grape and wine was measured. Furthermore, erosion has been measured using Gerlasch boxes. The yield was lower in the second year of the trial in the cover crop treatment, but erosion was significantly reduced.

The rootstock, the neglected player in the scion transpiration even during the night

Water is the main limiting factor for yield in viticulture. Improving drought adaptation in viticulture will be an increasingly important issue under climate change. Genetic variability of water deficit responses in grapevine partly results from the rootstocks, making them an attractive and relevant mean to achieve adaptation without changing the scion genotype. The objective of this work was to characterize the rootstock effect on the diurnal regulation of scion transpiration. A large panel of 55 commercial genotypes were grafted onto Cabernet Sauvignon. Three biological repetitions per genotype were analyzed. Potted plants were phenotyped on a greenhouse balance platform capable of assessing real-time water use and maintaining a targeted water deficit intensity. After a 10 days well-watered baseline period, an increasing water deficit was applied for 10 days, followed by a stable water deficit stress for 7 days. Pruning weight, root and aerial dry weight and transpiration were recorded and the experiment was repeated during two years. Transpiration efficiency (ratio between aerial biomass and transpiration) was calculated and δ13C was measured in leaves for the baseline and stable water deficit periods. A large genetic variability was observed within the panel. The rootstock had a significant impact on nocturnal transpiration which was also strongly and positively correlated with maximum daytime transpiration. The correlations with growth and water use efficiency related traits will be discussed. Transpiration data were also related with VPD and soil water content demonstrating the influence of environmental conditions on transpiration. These results highlighted the role of the rootstock in modulating water deficit responses and give insights for rootstock breeding programs aimed at identifying drought tolerant rootstocks. It was also helpful to better define the mechanisms on which the drought tolerance in grapevine rootstocks is based on.

Water deficit differentially impacts the performances and the accumulation of grape metabolites of new varieties tolerant to fungi

The use of resistant varieties is a long-term but promising solution to reduce chemical input in viticulture. Several important breeding programs in Europe and abroad are now releasing a range of new hybrids performing well regarding fungi susceptibility and producing good quality wines. Unfortunately, insufficient attention is paid by the breeders to the adaptation of these varieties to climatic changes, notably to the increased climatic demand and water deficit (WD). Thus, prior to the adoption of such varieties by the wine industry in Mediterranean regions, there is a need to consider their suitability to WD. This study aimed to characterize the different drought-strategies adopted by 6 new resistant varieties selected by INRAE in comparison to Syrah. To allow the assessment of long-term impacts of WD, field-grown vines were exposed to contrasted WD from 2018 to 2021 under a semi-arid Mediterranean climate. A gradient of WD was applied in the field and controlled through plant measurements at the single plant level. Grape development was non-destructively monitored to determine the arrest of berry phloem unloading. The impacts of WD on berry composition, including water, primary metabolites (sugars, organic acids), secondary metabolites (anthocyanins, thiols precursors) and main cations contents, were assessed at this specific stage. Results showed different varietal responses during the year and inter-annual acclimation in terms of plant water use efficiency, biomass accumulation, as well as yield components and berry composition. WD differentially reduced the accumulation of primary metabolites at plant and berry levels, but it little changed their concentrations in the fruits at the ripe stage. Moreover, WD differentially impacted the accumulation of secondary metabolites and major cations between the varieties. In the talk, we’ll present the main results regarding the WD impacts on fruit metabolites and enlarge the reflection about the practical assessment of the grapevine acclimation to WD.