Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 « Wine routes »: a collective brand to build a wine reputation on the basis of terroir and landscapes

« Wine routes »: a collective brand to build a wine reputation on the basis of terroir and landscapes

Abstract

[English version below]

Le marché international du vin est désormais tourné vers la qualité et les vignobles de vin de masse se transforment pour construire la qualité et la réputation de leurs produits. Cette construction s’appuie notamment sur la valorisation de ressources territoriales de nature physique (terroir, pacage, écosystème) et humaine (savoir-faire, culture, patrimoine…). Les « Routes des Vins » sont des exemples concrets de ces processus de «territorialisation», combinant ces ressources territoriales pour communiquer sur l’ancrage géographique et la spécificité des vins. Les «Routes des Vins» émergentes, observées dans les régions vitivinicoles en transition vers la qualité, en Languedoc Roussillon, à Mendoza (Argentine) et au Western Cape (Afrique du Sud), participent souvent à la valorisation des terroirs, en organisant un itinéraire sur le territoire associé, en faisant découvrir les vins «de qualité», les paysages, les pratiques et le savoir-faire associés à leur élaboration.

Cette communication propose d’analyser les relations entre les «Routes des Vins» observées dans ces trois régions de «l’Ancien et du Nouveau Monde » et la valorisation des terroirs viticoles. Nous montrons d’abord l’importance que prennent les routes des vins, associées au tourisme viticole dans la construction de la réputation des vins. Ensuite, nous analysons la double relation entre les routes des vins et le zonage viti-vinicole. Nous présentons enfin différents types de routes des vins selon leurs relations au territoire.

In the wine sector, prompted by changes in consumption and international trade, mass wine production is being transformed into a quality wine system. Improving the wine quality and establishing its reputation are based on the valorization of territorial resources – geographic (terroir, landscape, ecosystem) and human (savoir faire, culture). This process can be traced through the construction of “wine routes”. Indeed, the emerging “wine routes” in Languedoc Roussillon, Mendoza (Argentina) and the Western Cape (South Africa) are contributing to the process of “zoning”, by organizing an itinerary inside the area of appellation, through the production of quality wines associated with local landscapes and specific production practices.

This paper analyses the relation between the establishment of “wine routes” and zoning issues, in both Old and New World wine regions. In Languedoc Roussillon, Mendoza as well as the Western Cape, we investigate the reciprocal relations between wine routes and the valorization of zoning. Flowing from this analysis we present a typology of wine routes based on their relation to territorial resources.

DOI:

Publication date: February 15, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2002

Type: Article

Authors

Emilie VANDECANDELAERE (1), Joachim EWERT (2)

(1) ENESAD INRA SAD, UMR Innovation, 2 Place Viala, 34060 Montpellier cedex 2
(2) Department of Sociology, Private bag XI Matieland 7602 University of Stellenbosch, Stellenbosch, South Africa

Contact the author

Keywords

Route des Vins, terroir, paysage, structure de coordination
wine route, terroir, landscape, co-ordination structures

Tags

Terroir 2002

Citation

Related articles…

Differential responses of red and white grape cultivars trained to a single trellis system – the VSP

Commercial grape production relies on training grapevine cultivars onto a variety of trellis systems. Training allows for well-lit leaves and clusters, maximizing fruit quality in addition to facilitating cultivation, harvesting, and diseases control. Although grapevines can be trained onto an infinite variety of trellis systems, most red and white cultivars are trained to the standard VSP (Vertical Shoot Positioning) system. However, red and white cultivars respond differently to VSP in fruit composition and growth characteristics, which are yet to be fully understood. Therefore, the objective of this study was to examine the influence of the VSP trellis system on fruit composition of three red, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, and three white, Chardonnay, Riesling, and Gewurztraminer cultivars grown under uniform growing conditions in the same vineyard. All cultivars were monitored for maturity and harvested at their physiologically maximum possible sugar concentration to compare various fruit quality attributes such as Brix, pH, TA, malic and tartaric acids, glucose and fructose, potassium, YAN, and phenolic compounds including total anthocyanins, anthocyanin profile, and tannins. A distinct pattern in fruit composition was observed in each cultivar. In regards to growth characteristics, Syrah grew vigorously with the highest cluster weight. Although all cultivars developed pyriform seeds, the seed size and weight varied among all cultivars. Also varied were mesocarp cell viability, brush morphology, and cane structure. This knowledge of the canopy architectural characteristics assessed by the widely employed fruit compositional attributes and growth characteristics will aid the growers in better management of the vines in varied situations.

Delaying irrigation initiation linearly reduces yield with little impact on maturity in Pinot noir

When to initiate irrigation is a critical annual management decision that has cascading effects on grapevine productivity and wine quality in the context of climate change. A multi-site trial was begun in 2021 to optimize irrigation initiation timing using midday stem water potential (ψstem) thresholds characterized as departures from non-stressed baseline ψstemvalues (Δψstem). Plant material, vine and row spacing, and trellising systems were concomitant among sites, while vine age, soil type, and pruning systems varied. Five target Δψstem thresholds were arranged in an RCBD and replicated eight times at each site: 0.2, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8, and 1.0 MPa (T1, T2, T3, T4, and T5, respectively). When thresholds were reached, plots were irrigated weekly at 70% ETc. Yield components and berry composition were quantified at harvest. To better generalize inferences across sites, data were analyzed by ANOVA using a mixed model including site as a random factor. Across sites, irrigation was initiated at Δψstem = 0.24, 0.50, 0.65, 0.93, and 0.98 MPa for T1, T2, T3, T4, and T5, respectively. Consistent significant negative linear trends were found for several key yield and berry composition variables. Yield decreased by 12.9, 15.9, 19.5, and 27.4% for T2, T3, T4, and T5, respectively, compared to T1 (p < 0.0001) across sites that were driven by similarly linear reductions in berry weight (p < 0.0001). Comparatively, berry composition varied little among treatments. Juice total soluble solids decreased linearly from T1 to T5 – though only ranged 0.9 Brix (p = 0.012). Because producers are paid by the ton, and contracts simply stipulate a target maturity level, first-year results suggest that there is no economic incentive to induce moderate water deficits before irrigation initiation, regardless of vineyard site. Subsequent years will further elucidate the carryover effects of delaying irrigation initiation on productivity over the long term.

Drought effect on aromatic and phenolic potential of seven recovered grapevine varieties in Castilla-La Mancha region (Spain)

The effects of climate change are seriously affecting the quality of wine grapes. High temperatures and drought cause imbalances in the chemical composition of grapes. The result is overripe grapes with low acidity and high sugar content, which produce wines with excessive alcohol content, lacking in freshness and not very aromatic. As a consequence, the search of varieties with capacity of produce quality grapes in adverse climate conditions is a good alternative to preserve the sustainability of vineyards. In this work, quality parameters of seven Vitis vinifera L. cultivars (five whites and two reds) recently recovered from extinction and grown under two different hydric regimes (rainfed and irrigated) were analyzed during the 2020 vintage. At harvest time, weight of 100 berries, must physicochemical parameters (brix degree, total acidity, malic acid, pH), and carbon and oxygen isotope ratios (δ13C, δ18O) were determined. Subsequently, varietal aroma potential index (IPAv) and total polyphenol index (TPI) were analyzed. Quality parameters, IPAv and TPI, showed significant differences between varieties and water regimes. Both red varieties, Moribel and Tinto Fragoso, stood out for their high aromatic and phenolic potential, which was higher under rainfed regime. Regarding to white varieties, Montonera del Casar and Jarrosuelto stood out in terms of varietal aroma potential. Montonera del Casar high acidity in its musts and Jarrosuelto showed the highest berry weights.

Modulation of berry composition by different vineyard management practices

High concentration of sugars in grapes and alcohol in wines is one of the consequences of climate change on viticulture production in several wine-growing regions. In order to investigate the possibilities of adaptation of vineyard management practices aimed to reduce the accumulation of sugar during the maturation phase without reducing the accumulation of anthocyanins in grapes, a study with severe shoot trimming, shoot thinning, cluster thinning and date of harvest was conducted on Merlot variety in Istria region (Croatia), under the Mediterranean climate. Four factors which may affect grape maturation and its composition at harvest were investigated in a two-years experiment; severe shoot trimming applied at veraison when >80% of berries changed colour (in comparison to untreated control), shoot thinning (0 and 30%), cluster thinning (0 and 30%), and the date of harvest (early and standard harvest dates). Shoot thinning had no significant impact on berry composition, despite the obtained reduction in yield per vine. Lower Brix in grapes were obtained with earlier harvest date and if no cluster thinning was applied, although at the same time a reduction in the concentration of anthocyanins in berries was observed in these treatments. On the other hand, if severe shoot trimming was applied when >80% of berries changed colour, a reduction of Brix was obtained without a negative impact on berry anthocyanins concentration. We conclude that in cases when undesirably high sugar concentrations at harvest are expected, severe shoot trimming at 80% veraison may effectively be used in order to obtain moderate sugar concentration in berries together with the adequate phenolic composition.

Bioclimatic shifts and land use options for Viticulture in Portugal

Land use, plays a relevant role in the climatic system. It endows means for agriculture practices thus contributing to the food supply. Since climate and land are closely intertwined through multiple interface processes, climate change may lead to significant impacts in land use. In this study, 1-km observational gridded datasets are used to assess changes in the Köppen–Geiger and Worldwide Bioclimatic (WBCS)