Smoke taint: Understanding and addressing the compositional consequences of grapevine exposure to smoke

Aroma diversity is one of the most important features in the expression of the varietal and geographic identity and sensory uniqueness of a wine. Italy has one of the largest ampelographic heritages of the world, with more than five hundred different varieties. Among them, many are used for the production of dry still white wines, many classified as Protected Designation of Origins and therefore produced in specific geographical areas with well-defined grape varieties. Chemical and sensory characteristics of the aroma of these wines have never been systematically studied, and the relative diversity has never been described and classified.

When sparkling wine is served, the first attribute perceived is foam1. Bentonite is usually added to wine in order to cause particle flocculation

Globalisation and climate change have radically transformed world wine production upsetting the established order of wine ecologies. Ecological risks and the future of traditional agricultural systems are widely debated in anthropology, but very little is understood of the particular challenges posed by climate change to viticulture which is seen by many as the canary in the coalmine of global agriculture. Moreover, wine as a globalised embedded commodity provides a particularly telling example for the study of climate change having already attracted early scientific attention. Studies of climate change in viticulture have focused primarily on the production of systematic models of adaptation and vulnerability, while the human and cultural factors, which are key to adaptation and sustainable futures, are largely missing. Climate experts have been unanimous in recognising the urgent need for a better understanding of the complex dynamics that shape how climate change is experienced and responded to by human systems. Yet this call has not yet been addressed. Climate ethnography, coined by the anthropologist Susan Crate (2011), aims to bridge this growing disjuncture between climate science and everyday life through the exploration of the social meaning of climate change. It seeks to investigate the confrontation of its social salience in different locations and under different environmental guises (Goodman 2018: 340). By understanding how wine producers make sense of the world (and the environment) and act in it, it proposes to focus on the co-production of interdisciplinary knowledge by identifying and foreshadowing problems (Goodman 2018: 342; Goodman & Marshall 2018). It seeks to offer an original, transformative and contrasted perspective to climate change scenarios by investigating human agency -individual or collective- in all its social, political and cultural diversity. An anthropological approach founded on detailed ethnographies of wine production is ideally placed to address economic, social and cultural disruptions caused by the emergence of these new environmental challenges. Indeed, the community of experts in environmental change have recently called for research that will encompass the human dimension and for more broad-based, integrated through interdisciplinarity, useful knowledge (Castree & al 2014). My paper seeks to engage with climate ethnography and discuss what it brings to the study of wine environmental futures while exploring the limitations of the anthropological environmental approach.

High temperatures typical of warm climates cause the colour of red wines to become increasingly unstable over time.

Les travaux menés, dans le cadre du programme départemental pour la connaissance et la valorisation des terroirs viticoles, sur l’aire A.O.C. Coteaux du Languedoc / Pic Saint-Loup ont permis d’appliquer à l’échelle d’une Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (13 communes), une méthodologie d’étude axée sur les aspects sol/climat/topographie qui concourent à l’identification des terroirs naturels, facteurs de typicité des vins.