Vineyards and grape varieties: what is going on in wine professional and consumer minds?

The quality of grapevines measured by yield and must density in the northern part of Europe conditons can be characterized as a type of “cool climate” – vary strongly from year to year and from one production site to another. One hundred year observations in Johannisberg from 1890 to 1991 demonstrate for the yield formation a clear dependancy from the year combined with a steady increase in productivity; latter a proof of positive clonal selection efforts.

Climate change poses a significant challenge for global viticulture, with growing evidence of its negative impact on thermal and hydric regimes, both of which are essential for the development of table grapes.

Globalisation and climate change have radically transformed world wine production upsetting the established order of wine ecologies. Ecological risks and the future of traditional agricultural systems are widely debated in anthropology, but very little is understood of the particular challenges posed by climate change to viticulture which is seen by many as the canary in the coalmine of global agriculture. Moreover, wine as a globalised embedded commodity provides a particularly telling example for the study of climate change having already attracted early scientific attention. Studies of climate change in viticulture have focused primarily on the production of systematic models of adaptation and vulnerability, while the human and cultural factors, which are key to adaptation and sustainable futures, are largely missing. Climate experts have been unanimous in recognising the urgent need for a better understanding of the complex dynamics that shape how climate change is experienced and responded to by human systems. Yet this call has not yet been addressed. Climate ethnography, coined by the anthropologist Susan Crate (2011), aims to bridge this growing disjuncture between climate science and everyday life through the exploration of the social meaning of climate change. It seeks to investigate the confrontation of its social salience in different locations and under different environmental guises (Goodman 2018: 340). By understanding how wine producers make sense of the world (and the environment) and act in it, it proposes to focus on the co-production of interdisciplinary knowledge by identifying and foreshadowing problems (Goodman 2018: 342; Goodman & Marshall 2018). It seeks to offer an original, transformative and contrasted perspective to climate change scenarios by investigating human agency -individual or collective- in all its social, political and cultural diversity. An anthropological approach founded on detailed ethnographies of wine production is ideally placed to address economic, social and cultural disruptions caused by the emergence of these new environmental challenges. Indeed, the community of experts in environmental change have recently called for research that will encompass the human dimension and for more broad-based, integrated through interdisciplinarity, useful knowledge (Castree & al 2014). My paper seeks to engage with climate ethnography and discuss what it brings to the study of wine environmental futures while exploring the limitations of the anthropological environmental approach.

The growing demand for non-alcoholic beverages, driven by health-conscious consumers and shifting social norms, has positioned dealcoholized wines as a promising alternative in the global beverage industry (Akhtar et al., 2025, in press; Kakroo, 2024).

Today the knowledge in terms of molecular composition of the colloidal matrix is ​​not enough in order to control its stability, according to the number of winemaking and wine stabilization processes. The physico-chemical processes during the winemaking change the composition and quantity of wine macromolecules. The goal today is to determine which analytical techniques will allow to discriminate these winemaking processes in order to better understand their impact on colloidal matrix stability as well as which molecules are responsible for its instabilities. METHODS: Wines obtained after conventional winemaking were subjected to different fining and chemical stabilization treatments. Different methods were used to investigate the wine macromolecular composition and stability after chemical stabilization, including quantitative and qualitative analyzes of total soluble polysaccharides by extraction under acidified ethanol, and by size exclusion separation as well as qNMR metabolomics. RESULTS: Observation of a slight difference at the quantitative level using classical analysis between the winemaking processes was observed as well as a strong discrimination by qNMR metabolomics.