“Terroir” and grape and wine quality of native grape variety Istrian Malvasia

Wine industry is looking forward for innovative, safe and eco-friendly antimicrobial products allowing the reduction of chemical treatments in the grape defense and the winemaking process that can affect negatively the quality of the product. Ozone has been tested in food industry giving good results in preventing fungi and bacteria growth on a wide spectrum of vegetables and fruits, due to its oxidant activity and ability to attack numerous cellular constituents. Ozone leaves no chemical residues on the food surface, decomposing itself rapidly in oxygen. Gaseous ozone has been already tested for table grapes storage and on wine grapes during withering.

Cet exposé présente une caractérisation générale de la Région Délimitée du Douro (RDD), productrice des appellations Porto (vins généreux), et Douro pour des vins de qualité VQPRD.

In recent years characterized by hot dry summers, the implementation of innovative irrigation tools in the vineyard represents a crucial challenge to ensure optimal production and to avoid excess of water consumption. It is known that the grapevine reacts to multiple stresses – i.e., high temperatures and wa- ter shortage – through adaptive mechanisms that are detrimental to the yield. Furthermore, this condi- tion is usually aggravated by high solar radiation, which could negatively affect the phenolic composi- tion of the grapes. Therefore, a cooling system has been developed aiming to reduce bunches’ sunburn damage.

Globalisation and climate change have radically transformed world wine production upsetting the established order of wine ecologies. Ecological risks and the future of traditional agricultural systems are widely debated in anthropology, but very little is understood of the particular challenges posed by climate change to viticulture which is seen by many as the canary in the coalmine of global agriculture. Moreover, wine as a globalised embedded commodity provides a particularly telling example for the study of climate change having already attracted early scientific attention. Studies of climate change in viticulture have focused primarily on the production of systematic models of adaptation and vulnerability, while the human and cultural factors, which are key to adaptation and sustainable futures, are largely missing. Climate experts have been unanimous in recognising the urgent need for a better understanding of the complex dynamics that shape how climate change is experienced and responded to by human systems. Yet this call has not yet been addressed. Climate ethnography, coined by the anthropologist Susan Crate (2011), aims to bridge this growing disjuncture between climate science and everyday life through the exploration of the social meaning of climate change. It seeks to investigate the confrontation of its social salience in different locations and under different environmental guises (Goodman 2018: 340). By understanding how wine producers make sense of the world (and the environment) and act in it, it proposes to focus on the co-production of interdisciplinary knowledge by identifying and foreshadowing problems (Goodman 2018: 342; Goodman & Marshall 2018). It seeks to offer an original, transformative and contrasted perspective to climate change scenarios by investigating human agency -individual or collective- in all its social, political and cultural diversity. An anthropological approach founded on detailed ethnographies of wine production is ideally placed to address economic, social and cultural disruptions caused by the emergence of these new environmental challenges. Indeed, the community of experts in environmental change have recently called for research that will encompass the human dimension and for more broad-based, integrated through interdisciplinarity, useful knowledge (Castree & al 2014). My paper seeks to engage with climate ethnography and discuss what it brings to the study of wine environmental futures while exploring the limitations of the anthropological environmental approach.

Although some wine production processes still rely on post-production evaluation and off-site laboratory analysis, the new winemaking industry is aware of a need for a better knowledge of the process to improve the properties of the final product. Thus, more and more wineries are interested in incorporating quality-by-design (QbD) strategies instead of postproduction testing because of the possibility to early detect deviations in fermentation or any other wine process. This would allow to detect unwanted situations and eventually to ‘readjust’ the process, thus minimizing rejects.