Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Efecto de distintos ambientes sobre las características físico – químicas y sensoriales del Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC

Efecto de distintos ambientes sobre las características físico – químicas y sensoriales del Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC

Abstract

La región de Abruzzo está situada entre los Apeninos y el mar Adriático, limitando al norte con el río Tronto y al sur con el Trigno. Desde un punto de vista físico se divide en dos franjas: una montañosa al oeste constituida por rocas calcáreas con frecuentes fenómenos de erosión debido a las corrientes de agua y a la naturaleza calcárea del terreno (“carsismo”) y otra al este, más cercana al mar, representada por una amplia zona de colinas constituida por terrenos arcilloso ​calcáreos y arenosos. Obviamente el clima está influido por la presencia de las grandes montañas del Gran Sasso y Maiella y también por la proximidad al mar Adriático. Así, en las cercanías de la zona montañosa, en la parte occidental, la temperatura difícilmente alcanza la media anual de 12°C, mientras que en la región mas cercana al mar la media anual oscila entre los 12° y los 16°C. Exponemos, a este respecto, las conclusiones de Matassa et al. (1992): “El clima de Abruzzo está influenciado fuertemente por la orografía montañosa y muestra una fuerte variabilidad, pasando de regiones templadas en la costa, a moderadamente templadas en los valles internos y las altas colinas litorales, a moderadamente frías y frías en las montañas”. Así que en general el clima se puede considerar apacible y a excepción de algunas zonas particularmente secas del sur de la región, se da un buen nivel de pluviosidad y es altamente soleado (Matassa et al., 1992). En el área observada por nosotros, en el territorio de Vasto, la pluviosidad, definida por los valores registrados en las estaciones del “Genio Civile” (ente estatal, perteneciente al ministerio italiano de obras públicas) durante el período 1965-93, muestra un aumento desde la costa hacia el interior, pasando de los 630 mm deVasto a los 850 mm de Montazzoli. La actividad vinícola juega un papel de primordial importancia en la economía agrícola del territorio de Vasto ya sea en términos de superficie cultivada como en términos de producción bruta a la venta. En dicha área, 6000 hectáreas están dedicadas al cultivo de la vid, de las cuales aproximadamente 480 (1.8 %) pertenecen a la colina del interior y la alta colina próxima a los montes, mientras que las restantes 5500 ha (92% del total) están localizadas en la colina litoral. La forma de cultivo mas difundida es el clásico emparrado con distancias de plantación de 2,5m x 2,5 m a pesar de que en los últimos años se han adoptado otros sistemas como el GDC.
La región de Abruzzo, a través del ARSSA (Agenzia Regionale per i Servizi di Sviluppo Agricolo), ha participado en el proyecto “Caracterización de vinos típicos” y ha seleccionado el territorio de Vasto para el programa de caracterización del vino Montepulciano d’Abruzzo a Denominación de Origen. El criterio que se ha adoptado para la división del territorio y para el muestreo, ha tenido en consideración esencialmente la disponibilidad térmica, definida a través de los índices bioclimáticos de Winkler e Huglin con referencia a un trabajo precedente que consideraba dichos parámetros a nivel regional (Matassa et al., 1992). Debemos considerar, además, que las características pedológicas cambian poco dentro de cada area examinada, y la forma de cultivo, el emparrado, es la única en todo el territorio. Se considera que la compleja orografía del territorio puede influir de forma notable sobre la distribución de la disponibilidad térmica, determinando una amplia posibilidad de condiciones ambientales dentro de cada zona DOC del vino.
Sobre la base de las consideraciones expuestas se han definido tres áreas a distinta distancia de la costa (fig.1) caracterizadas por disponibilidades térmicas en disminución. Dentro de cada una de ellas se han elegido 5 viñedos muestra (tab.1).
Area A: representativa de la colina litoral donde el cultivo vitícola es mayor. En esta zona el viñedo del ayuntamiento de Pollutri se diferencia de los otros (Casalbordino e Scerni) por la altitud de solamente 40 m sobre el nivel del mar.
Area B: representativa de la colina adyacente a la litoral. Los viñedos pertenecen a dos ayuntamientos , de los cuales uno (Furci) tiene una altitud 3 veces superior a los restantes.
Area C: representativa de la colina próxima a los montes. Los viñedos pertenecen a un solo ayuntamiento y la altitud de los viñedos va desde los 470 a los 555 m sobre el nivel del mar.

DOI:

Publication date: February 25, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2000

Type: Article

Authors

B.Di Lena (1), M. Ubigli (2), M.C. Cravero (2), D. Voerzio (2), M.C. Pazo-Alvarez (2)

(1) A.R.S.S.A. Centro Agrometeorologico Regionale ​Via Colle Comune 11, 66020 Scerni (CH)- Italia
(2) Istituto Sperimentale per l’Enologia, Via P. Micca 35, 14100 Asti (AT) – Italia

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2000

Citation

Related articles…

1H-NMR-based Metabolomics to assess the impact of soil type on the chemical composition of Mediterranean red wines

The aim of this study was to evaluate the effects of different soil types on the chemical composition of Mediterranean red wines, through untargeted and targeted 1H-NMR metabolomics. One milliliter of raw wine was analyzed by means of a Bruker Avance II 400 spectrometer operating at 400.15 MHz. The spectra were recorded by applying the NOESYGPPS1D pulse sequency, to achieve water and ethanol signals suppression. No modification of the pH was performed to avoid any chemical alteration of the matrix. The generation of input variables for untargeted analysis was done via bucketing the spectra. The resulting dataset was preprocessed prior to perform unsupervised PCA, by means of MetaboAnalyst web-based tool suite. The identification of compounds for the targeted analysis was performed by comparison to pure compounds spectra by means of SMA plug-in of MNova 14.2.3 software. The dataset containing the concentrations (%) of identified compounds was subjected to one-way analysis of variance (ANOVA) to highlight significant differences among the wines. The untargeted analysis, carried out through the PCA, revealed a clear differentiation among the wines. The fragments of the spectra contributing mostly to the separation were attributed to flavonoids, aroma compounds and amino acids. The targeted analysis leaded to the identification of 68 compounds, whose concentrations were significant different among the wines. The results were related to soils physical-chemical analysis and showed that: 1) high concentrations of flavan-3-ols and flavonols are correlated with high clay content in soils; 2) high concentrations of anthocyanins, amino acids, and aroma compounds are correlated with neutral and moderately alkaline soil pH; 3) low concentrations of flavonoids and aroma compounds are correlated with high soil organic matter content and acidic pH. The 1H-NMR metabolomic analysis proved to be an excellent tool to discriminate between wines originating from grapes grown on different soil types and revealed that soils in the Mediterranean area exert a strong impact on the chemical composition of the wines.

Is wine terroir a valid concept under a changing climate?

The OIV[i] defines terroir as a concept referring to an area in which collective knowledge of the interactions between the physical and biological environment (soil, topography, climate, landscape characteristics and biodiversity features) and vitivinicultural practices develops, providing distinctive wine characteristics. Those are perceptible in the taste of wine, which drives consumer preference and, therefore, wine’s value in the marketplace. Geographical indications (GI) are recognized regulatory constructs formalizing and protecting the nexus between wine taste and the terroir generating it. Despite considering updates, GIs do not consider the nexus as a dynamic one and do not anticipate change, namely of climate. Being climate a fundamental feature of terroir, it strongly impacts wine characteristics, such as taste. According to IPCC[ii], many widespread, rapid and unprecedented changes of climate occurred, some being irreversible over hundreds to thousands of years. Climatic shifts and atmospheric-driven extreme events have been widely reported worldwide. Recent climatic trends are projected to strengthen in upcoming decades, whereas extremes are expected to increase in frequency and intensity, forcing wines away from GI definitions. Geographical shifts of viticultural suitability are projected, often moving into regions and countries different from current ones. Some authors propose adaptation in viticulture, winemaking and product innovation. We show evidence of climate changing wine characteristics in the Douro valley, home of 270-year-old Port GI. We discuss herein resist or adapt stances for when climate changes the nexus between terroir and wine characteristics. Using the MED-GOLD[iii] dashboard, a tool allowing for easy visual navigation of past and future climates, we demonstrate how policymakers can identify future moments, throughout the 21st century under different emission scenarios, when GI specifications will likely need updates (e.g., boundaries, varieties) to reduce climate-change impacts.

Climate ethnography and wine environmental futures

Globalisation and climate change have radically transformed world wine production upsetting the established order of wine ecologies. Ecological risks and the future of traditional agricultural systems are widely debated in anthropology, but very little is understood of the particular challenges posed by climate change to viticulture which is seen by many as the canary in the coalmine of global agriculture. Moreover, wine as a globalised embedded commodity provides a particularly telling example for the study of climate change having already attracted early scientific attention. Studies of climate change in viticulture have focused primarily on the production of systematic models of adaptation and vulnerability, while the human and cultural factors, which are key to adaptation and sustainable futures, are largely missing. Climate experts have been unanimous in recognising the urgent need for a better understanding of the complex dynamics that shape how climate change is experienced and responded to by human systems. Yet this call has not yet been addressed. Climate ethnography, coined by the anthropologist Susan Crate (2011), aims to bridge this growing disjuncture between climate science and everyday life through the exploration of the social meaning of climate change. It seeks to investigate the confrontation of its social salience in different locations and under different environmental guises (Goodman 2018: 340). By understanding how wine producers make sense of the world (and the environment) and act in it, it proposes to focus on the co-production of interdisciplinary knowledge by identifying and foreshadowing problems (Goodman 2018: 342; Goodman & Marshall 2018). It seeks to offer an original, transformative and contrasted perspective to climate change scenarios by investigating human agency -individual or collective- in all its social, political and cultural diversity. An anthropological approach founded on detailed ethnographies of wine production is ideally placed to address economic, social and cultural disruptions caused by the emergence of these new environmental challenges. Indeed, the community of experts in environmental change have recently called for research that will encompass the human dimension and for more broad-based, integrated through interdisciplinarity, useful knowledge (Castree & al 2014). My paper seeks to engage with climate ethnography and discuss what it brings to the study of wine environmental futures while exploring the limitations of the anthropological environmental approach.

Effect of regulated deficit irrigation regime on amino acids content of Monastrell (Vitis vinifera L.) grapes

Irrigation is an important practice to influence vine quality, especially in Mediterranean regions, characterized by hot summers and severe droughts during the growing season. This study focused on deficit irrigation regime influence on amino acids composition of Monastrell grapevines under semiarid conditions (Albacete, Southeastern of Spain). In 2019, two treatments were applied: non-irrigation (NI) and regulated deficit irrigation (RDI), watered at 30% of the estimated crop evapotranspiration from fruit set to onset of veraison. Grape amino acids content was analyzed by HPLC. Berries from non-irrigated vines showed higher concentration of several amino acids, such as tryptophan (73%), arginine (70%), lysine (36%), isoleucine (27%), and leucine (21%), compared to RDI grapes. Arginine is, together with ammonium ion, the principal nitrogen source for yeasts during the alcoholic fermentation; while isoleucine, tryptophan, and leucine are precursors of fermentative volatile compounds, key compounds for wine quality. Moreover, NI treatment increased in a 14% the total amino acids content in grapes compared to RDI treatment. The reported effects might be because yield was 70% higher in RDI vines than in the NI ones and, therefore, the sink demand was increased in the irrigated vines. In addition, NI vines suffered more severe water stress and it is known that the amino acids synthesis and accumulation can be influenced by the plant response to stress. According to the results, the irrigation regime showed effect on amino acids concentration in Monastrell grapes under semiarid conditions. Grapes from non-irrigated vines showed a higher content of several amino acids relevant to the fermentative process and to the wine aroma compounds formation. It is demonstrated that the final content of nitrogen-related components in grapes is influenced by the irrigation regime. The convenience of the irrigation strategy to suggest will depend on the desired wine style and the target yield levels.

Pruned vine biomass exclusion from a clay loam vineyard soil – examining the impact on physical/chemical properties

The wine industry worldwide faces increasing challenges to achieve sustainable levels of carbon emission mitigation. This project seeks to establish the feasibility of harvesting winter pruned vineyard biomass (PVB) for potential use in carbon footprint reduction, through its use as a renewable biofuel for energy production. In order to make this recommendation, technical issues such as the potential environmental impact, chemical composition and fuel suitability, and logistical challenges of harvesting biomass needs to be understood to compare with the results from similar studies. Of particular interest is the role PVB plays as a carbon source in vineyard soils and what effect annual removal might have on soil carbon sequestration. A preliminary trial was established in the Waite Campus vineyard (University of Adelaide) to test current management strategies. Vines are grown in a Eutrophic, Red Dermosol clay loam soil with well managed midrow swards. A comparison was undertaken of mid-row treatments in two 0.25 Ha blocks (Shiraz and Semillon), including annual cultivation for seed bed preparation, the deliberate exclusion of PVB (25 years) and incorporation of PVB (13 years) at an average of 3.4 and 5.5 Mg/Ha-1 for Shiraz and Semillon respectively. In both 0-10cm and 10-30cm soil core sample depths, combined soil carbon % measures in the desired range of 1.80 to 3.50, were not significantly different between treatments or cultivars and yielded an estimated 42 Mg/ha-1 of sequestered soil carbon. Other key physical and chemical measures were likewise not significantly different between treatments. Preliminary results suggest that in a temperate zone vineyard, managed such as the one used in this study, there is no long term negative impact on soil carbon sequestration through removing PVB. This implies that growers could confidently harvest PVB for use in several end fates including as a bio fuel.