Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Tutela legale delle denominazioni di origine nel mondo (con aspetti applicativi)

Tutela legale delle denominazioni di origine nel mondo (con aspetti applicativi)

Abstract

Uno degli aspetti più importanti nel commercio internazionale dei vini a denominazione è quello del riconoscimento dei diritti di esclusiva garantiti sui e dal territorio geografico d’o­rigine. Al fine di cautelarsi nei confronti della sempre più agguerrita concorrenza mondiale, è opportuno adottare adeguate protezioni ufficiali e legali delle denominazioni che possono derivare sia dalla “naturalità” del prodotto stesso che dalla “originalità” più particolare. Per proteggere è importante, quindi, conoscere la diversa valenza commerciale e giuridica che ciascun Paese attribuisce ai termini “marchio” e “denominazione”.
L’Accordo TRIPS – Ginevra, 15 dicembre 1993 – si fonda essenzialmente sulla con­statazione della insufficiente omogeneità e garanzia offerta dalle discipline legali, giuridiche e commerciali nei diversi Paesi per i marchi non industriali e tale disomogeneità comporta una grave distorsione del mercato internazionale con evidenti effetti, non solo nella pro­duzione ma anche sulla lealtà concorrenziale e sulla tutela del consumatore finale.
La legge italiana pone sullo stesso piano dei marchi, costituiti da indicazioni proprie del prodotto, le indicazioni sulla sua origine o provenienza geografica: cioè, quando il nome geografico identifica per il consumatore una qualità tradizionale o una caratteristica del prodotto, esso è tutelabile solo come denominazione d’origine.
I marchi collettivi, come è nota, sono segni distintivi usati da soggetti diversi, anche nello stesso momento, per contraddistinguere prodotti uguali o affini e sono destinati a garantire l’origine, la natura e le caratteristiche tipologiche di determinati prodotti o servizi. Il mar­chio collettivo non si limita quindi solo ad una funzione di notificazione. Quello che è deter­minante non è la semplice provenienza del prodotto, ma è anche la correttezza profession­ale degli imprenditori che fornisce affidamento al consumatore sulla qualità o sull’origine del prodotto. Quando coesistono questi segni distintivi legati ad un prodotto, è fondamen­tale predisporre un regolamento o disciplinare d’uso della denominazione di origine del prodotto, in cui si devono ricomprendere anche attività di controllo e sanzioni contro un uti­lizzo della denominazione contrario alle sue finalità, compreso quelli attuati dai produttori stessi.
La denominazione d’origine è, di solito, costituita da un nome geografico di località, città o regione, per uno specifico prodotto di una determinata zona, avente caratteristiche merceo­logiche o qualitative che derivano dall’opera dell’uomo o da fattori naturali, tipici dell’ambi­ente e dei fattori antropici di produzione.
Con l’indicazione di provenienza, invece, si indica un segno distintivo relativo ad un prodot­to ottenuto con metodi di produzione o di tecnica costanti, che non abbia caratteristiche essenzialmente collegate ad una certa zona geografica, quindi viene utilizzato per indicare essenzialmente il luogo di produzione.
Giustamente, una recente pubblicazione dell’Assocamerestero fa notare che non sempre l’indicazione di provenienza può essere intesa e registrata come denominazione d’origine, qualora questa crei “una situazione di ingiustificato privilegio” o comunque sia tale da recare pregiudizio allo sviluppo di altre analoghe iniziative nella stessa regione.
Proprio per i motivi sopra esposti e per le ancora troppo ampie disquisizioni formali e giuridiche generali e particolari sugli accordi bilaterali fra gli Stati (che hanno una legi­slazione in materia assai differente) diventa fondamentale definire e catalogare inter­nazionalmente un nuovo disposto giuridico che codifichi la denominazione da proteggere tale da non essere classificata come un marchio di impresa, o un marchio industriale, o un marchio solo collettivo, o una indicazione solo di provenienza poiché rappresentano solo “parziali” definizioni di supposta tutela dell’origine geografica del prodotto, del vino nel nostro caso.

DOI:

Publication date: March 3, 2022

Issue: Terroir 1998

Type: Article

Authors

GIAMPIETRO COMOLLI

Direttore Consorzio per la Tutela del Franciacorta, Erbusco (Brescia) – ltalia

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 1998

Citation

Related articles…

Vineyards and clay minerals: multi-technique analytical approach and correlations with soil properties

Purpose of this research is to quantitatively assess the mineral component of vineyard soils, with particular attention to the mineralogical analysis of clays, which represent an element of high importance in the vineyard culture as well as in general agriculture. An X-ray diffraction (XRD) / thermogravimetric (TG) multi-technique analytical approach was developed, tested on soil samples taken from vineyards around the world. This codified analytical procedure was necessary to obtain precise qualitative and quantitative mineralogical data, globally comparable to distinguish the geopedological identity of the vineyards. Soil samples from vineyards of various locations were analysed, in very different geological conditions. The bulk-rock quantitative phase analysis (QPA) was obtained by the Rietveld method while the detailed composition of the clay-sized fraction was determined by modelling of the oriented X-ray diffraction patterns. The research provided a precise classification of the mineral component of soils, distinguishing the mineral phases of the clays and the so-called mixed-layer clay minerals. We found that the content in mixed layers can be directly correlated with the water retention and the cation exchange capacity ​​of the soil, while the presence of other clayey minerals and phyllosilicates in this research did not affect this CEC parameter, which codes the fertility level of the soils. The study demonstrates that terroir, in particular soils formed in complex or very different geological conditions, can only be effectively interpreted by properly analysing its mineral phases, in particular the mixed-layer clay component. These are characteristic abiotic ecological indicators, which may have specific eco-physiological influences on the plant.

Diagnosis of soil quality and evaluation of the impact of viticultural practices on soil biodiversity in a vineyard in southwestern France

Viticulture is facing two major changes – climate change and agroecological transition. In both cases, soil quality is seen as a lever to move towards a more sustainable viticulture. However, soil biological quality is little considered in the implementation of viticultural practices. Gascogn’Innov (2017-2022) is an Operational Group funded by the European Innovation Partnership for Agriculture. As such, it brings together winegrowers from the south-west of France, scientists, advisors and technicians, around a project focused on viticultural soil biological functioning and the design of technical routes more respectful toward soil heritage. To achieve this, the project aims to acquire references on the impact of viticultural practices on soil biology from a dynamic way, and to test a methodology to integrate information provided by the soil bioindicators to manage farming systems. A set of indicators of soil biological quality are evaluated in the project: microorganisms (bacteria and fungi abundance and diversity), fauna (abundance and diversity of nematodes and earthworms), physico-chemical characteristics, soil structure assessment and degradation rate of organic matter. Based on a network of 13 plots that have been subject to an initial diagnosis in 2017, several agronomical practices to restore soil fertility are experimented to redesign the cropping system (for instance plant cover, organic matter inputs, reduction of herbicides, mineral fertilizers). System redesign was made in collaboration by winegrowers and an interdisciplinary group of experts (agronomists, biologists). Several indicators are measured on vine and soil at each vintage to assess vine health and productivity. At the end of the project (2021), a final diagnosis was carried out. Gascogn’Innov allowed to create a regional database on the quality of wine-growing soils, which permitted to evaluate the effect of practices according to soil types. Especially, decreasing the intensity of tillage and increasing the duration and diversity of grass coverage tends to increase the abundance of all the organisms studied. This project confirmed the value of soil biological quality indicators to drive the sustainability of practices, but also highlighted the key-role of expertise, in both agronomy and soil biology, to help winegrowers understand and appropriate their soil quality diagnoses.

Metabolomic discrimination of grapevine water status for Chardonnay and Pinot noir

Water status impact in viticulture has been widely explored, as it strongly affects grapevine physiology and grape chemical composition. It is considered as a key component of vitivinicultural terroir. Most of the studies concerning grapevine water status have focused on either physiological traits, or berry compounds, or traits involved in wine quality. Here, the response of grapevine to water availability during the ripening period is assessed through non-targeted metabolomics analysis of grape berries by ultra-high resolution mass spectrometry. The grapevine water status has been assessed during 2 consecutive years (2019 & 2020), through carbon isotope discrimination on juices from berries collected at maturity (21.5 brix approx.) for 2 Vitis vinifera cv. Pinot noir (PN) and Chardonnay (CH). A total of 220 grape juices were collected from 5 countries worldwide (Italy; Argentina; France; Germany; Portugal). Measured δ13C (‰) varied from -28.73 to -22.6 for PN, and from -28.79 to -21.67 for CH. These results also clearly revealed higher water stress for the 2020 vintage. The same grape juices have been analysed by Fourier Transform Ion Cyclotron Resonance Mass Spectrometry (FT-ICR-MS) and Liquid Chromatography coupled to Mass Spectrometry (LC-qTOF-MS), leading to the detection of up to 4500 CHONS containing elemental compositions, and thus likely tens of thousands of individual compounds, which include fatty acids, organic acids, peptides, phenolics, also with high levels of glycosylation. Multivariate statistical analysis revealed that up to 160 elemental compositions, covering the whole range of detected masses (100 –1000 m/z), were significantly correlated to the observed gradients of water status. Examples of chemical markers, which are representative of these complex fingerprints, include various derivatives of the known abscisic acid (ABA), such as phaesic acid or abscisic acid glucose ester, which are significantly correlated with higher water stress, regardless of the variety. Cultivar-specific behaviours could also be identified from these fingerprints. Our results provide an unprecedented representation of the metabolic diversity, which is involved in the water status regulation at the grape level, and which could contribute to a better knowledge of the grapevine mitigation strategy in a climate change context.

Legacy of land-cover changes on soil erosion and microbiology in Burgundian vineyards

Soils in vineyards are recognized as complex agrosystems whose characteristics reflect complex interactions between natural factors (lithology, climate, slope, biodiversity) and human activities. To date, most of the unknown lies in an incomplete understanding of soil ecosystems, and specifically in the microbial biodiversity even though soil microbiota is involved in many key functions, such as nutrient cycling and carbon sequestration. Soil biological properties are indicative of soil quality. Therefore, understanding how soil communities are related to soil ecosystem functioning is becoming an essential issue for soil strategy conservation. Here, we propose to assess the importance of land-cover history on the present-day microbiological and physico-chemical properties. The studied area was selected in the Burgundian vineyards (Pernand-Vergelesses, Burgundy, France) where land occupation has been reconstructed over the last 40 years. Soil samples were collected in five areas reflecting various land cover history (forest, vineyards, shifting from forest to vineyards). For each area, physico-chemical parameters (pH, C, N, P, grain size) were measured and DNA was extracted to characterize the abundance and diversity of microbial communities. The obtained results show significant differences in the five areas suggesting that present-day microbial molecular biomass and bacterial taxonomic is partly inherited from past land occupation. Over longer period of time, such study of land-uses legacies may help to better assess ecosystem recovery and the impact of management practices for a better soil quality and vineyards sustainability.

Simulating climate change impact on viticultural systems in historical and emergent vineyards

Global climate change affects regional climates and hold implications for wine growing regions worldwide. Although winegrowers are constantly adapting to internal and external factors, it seems relevant to develop tools, which will allow them to better define actual and future agro-climatic potentials. Within this context, we develop a modelling approach, able to simulate the impact of environmental conditions and constraints on vine behaviour and to highlight potential adaptation strategies according to different climate change scenarios. Our modeling approach, named SEVE (Simulating Environmental impacts on Viticultural Ecosystems), provides a generic modeling framework for simulating grapevine growth and berry ripening under different conditions and constraints (slope, aspect, soil type, climate variability…) as well as production strategies and adaptation rules according to climate change scenarios. Each activity is represented by an autonomous agent able to react and adapt its reaction to the variability of environmental constraints. Using this model, we have recently analyzed the evolution of vineyards’ exposure to climatic risks (frost, pathogen risk, heat wave) and the adaptation strategies potentially implemented by the winegrowers. This approach, implemented for two climate change scenarios, has been initiated in France on traditional (Loire Valley) and emerging (Brittany) vineyards. The objective is to identify the time horizons of adaptations and new opportunities in these two regions. Carried out in collaboration with wine growers, this approach aims to better understand the variability of climate change impacts at local scale in the medium and long term.