Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Les terroirs : variae causarum figurae

Les terroirs : variae causarum figurae

Abstract

Le juriste se sent intrus pour parler des terroirs. Il regarde la presse et essaye de comprendre. On peut y lire à propos de la fête de la cuisine du 30 mai 1996 qui “..met en valeur des produits dont la qualité dépend d’un terroir”, que le Camembert du pays d’Auge est le seul à être protégé, je pensais au camembert de Normandie, que 80 % de la feta grecque est fabriquée aux Pays Bas, je croyais que c’était au Danemark, et que la Communauté européenne protège les indications géographiques de provenance IGP, sans doute une catégorie nouvelle remplaçant les indications géographiques protégées (1). J’ai appris aussi que les distributeurs redemandent des produits du terroir car “ils viennent brouiller les cartes dans la partie engagée avec les grandes marques”. Carrefour a ses “Terroirs et tiroirs”, Prisunic son “Vent d’Ouest”, Intermarché “Les bouquets du terroir”, Monoprix “Les terroirs de France” (2), Promodés et sa marque “Reflets de France” pour les hypermarchés “Continent” (3). Dans le même temps on affirme que “Le terme est un simple nom commun. Improtégeable et donc improtégé” (4).

Certes le vin et le terroir restent encore très majoritairement liés pour les consommateurs, mais au rythme actuel, le terroir non viticole risque la dépréciation rapide et le terroir viticole la banalisation par osmose. La publicité n’est pas en reste. Un dépliant décrit un produit comme un “grand cru” issu d’un “terroir exceptionnel”, l’un des “cent sites remarquables du goût”, auquel s’ajoute le “savoir faire de l’homme”, et continue encore “Les différents cépages sont pour nous les nombreuses plantes et épices que nous utilisons..”. Il s’agit d’une boisson spiritueuse anisée(5). Pour brouiller encore les cartes citons la campagne publicitaire estivale d’un vin sur “un positionnement original” grâce au slogan “Son terroir, c’est la mer” (6). Opérant un repli stratégique consécutif à l’effroi le juriste regarde avec attention l’objet habituel de ses réflexions: les textes. Les textes français et naturellement les textes communautaires et aussi quelques sources internationales. A quelques exceptions près, d’importance très modeste, les textes n’emploient jamais ou presque le vocable terroir. Terroir est un vocable utilisé, éventuellement, par les juristes, mais ce n’est pas un vocable à signification juridique (7). On se tourne alors vers les études scientifiques consacrées au(x) terroir(s). Aux yeux d’un juriste le contenu de la notion scientifique de terroir est évolutif mais avec un objectif de caractérisation pratiquement unique qui est la délimitation d’une “..aire de production..” pour le droit français (8), une “..région déterminée..” ou une “..aire géographique..” dans le droit communautaire (9). Il s’agit d’optimiser les caractéristiques d’une production en effectuant un zonage, en l’occurrence un mésozonage. Le lien terroir-appellation d’origine apparaît : “Constitue une appellation d’origine, la dénomination d’un pays, d’une région ou d’une localité servant à désigner un produit qui en est originaire et dont la qualité ou les caractères sont dus au milieu géographique, comprenant des facteurs naturels et des facteurs humains” (10). Est-ce à dire que le terroir se moule sur l’appellation d’origine etomporte dans son étude les facteurs naturels et les facteurs humains? L’équivalence terroir-appellation d’origine a pu être pratiquée par les scientifiques. De même la distinction des facteurs naturels et des facteurs humains a pu être variable dans sa signification (11). Aujourd’hui la notion scientifique de terroir parait devoir être comprise comme incluant seulement les éléments naturels du milieu, les facteurs naturels de l’appellation d’origine. Le terroir est l’ensemble des facteurs naturels d’une appellation d’origine, c’est à dire d’une aire de production déterminée produisant des vins “..aux caractéristiques qualitatives particulières..” (12). Mais en quelques années les réglementations nationales et communautaires, les conventions internationales, ont beaucoup changé. Le lien au terroir a fait recette et les noms géographiques sont devenus de plus en plus attractifs. Il faut vendre ce que l’on produit.

Le terroir reste toujours consubstantiel pour l’appellation d’origine, mais il a fallu tenir compte de produits autres que les vins. Il a fallu tenir compte de situations différentes de celles qui correspondent au moule de l’appellation d’origine à la française, typiquement et essentiellement vinicole. On a vu apparaître d’autres définitions depuis 1992: celles de l’indication géographique protégée – IGP dans la Communauté européenne et de l’indication géographique reconnue – IGR à l’O.I.V.. On a vu apparaître aussi les indications géographiques en 1994 dans l’un des accords résultant du cycle de l’Uruguay, l’Accord sur les Droits de Propriété Intellectuelle qui touchent au Commerce – ADPIC (Agreement on Trade related aspects of intellectual property rights – TRIPS).

Au travers de ces définitions y-a-t-il migration, influence, ou abandon de la notion de terroir ? peut-on penser qu’il existe désormais une gamme de terroirs ? (I). Par ailleurs les produits issus d’un lieu déterminé sont désignés par un nom géographique, parfois par une dénomination traditionnelle. La solution habituelle pour les appellations d’origine est-elle transmissible aux nouvelles situations d’indication géographique? Les noms des terroirs méritent aussi notre attention (II).

DOI:

Publication date: March 25, 2022

Issue: Terroir 1996

Type : Poster

Authors

J. AUDIER

Faculté de droit et de science politique d’Aix-Marseille
3, avenue R. Schuman 13628 Aix en Provence cedex 1

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 1996

Citation

Related articles…

Downscaling of remote sensing time series: thermal zone classification approach in Gironde region

In viticulture, the challenges of local climate modelling are multiple: taking into account the local environment, fine temporal and spatial scales, reliable time series of climate data, ease of implementation and reproducibility of the method. At the local scale, recent studies have demonstrated the contribution of spatialization methods for ground-based climate observation data considering topographic factors such as altitude, slope, aspect, and geographic coordinates (Le Roux et al, 2017; De Rességuier et al, 2020). However, these studies have shown questions in terms of the reproducibility and sustainability of this type of climate study. In this context, we evaluated the potential of MODIS thermal satellite images validated with ground-based climate data (Morin et al, 2020). Previous studies have been encouraging, but questions remain to be explored at the regional scale, particularly in the dynamics of the massive use of bioclimatic indices to classify the climate of wine regions. The results at the local scale were encouraging, but this approach was tested in the current study at the regional scale. Several objectives were set: 1) to evaluate the downscaling method for land surface temperature time series, 2) to identify regional thermal structure variations. We used weekly minimum and maximum surface temperature time series acquired by MODIS satellites at a spatial resolution of 1000 m and downscaled at 500 m using topographical variables. Two types of analyses were performed:

Optimizing stomatal traits for future climates

Stomatal traits determine grapevine water use, carbon supply, and water stress, which directly impact yield and berry chemistry. Breeding for stomatal traits has the strong potential to improve grapevine performance under future, drier conditions, but the trait values that breeders should target are unknown. We used a functional-structural plant model developed for grapevine (HydroShoot) to determine how stomatal traits impact canopy gas exchange, water potential, and temperature under historical and future conditions in high-quality and hot-climate California wine regions (Napa and the Central Valley). Historical climate (1990-2010) was collected from weather stations and future climate (2079-99) was projected from 4 representative climate models for California, assuming medium- and high-emissions (RCP 4.5 and 8.5). Five trait parameterizations, representing mean and extreme values for the maximum stomatal conductance (gmax) and leaf water potential threshold for stomatal closure (Ψsc), were defined from meta-analyses. Compared to mean trait values, the water-spending extremes (highest gmax or most negative Ysc) had negligible benefits for carbon gain and canopy cooling, but exacerbated vine water use and stress, for both sites and climate scenarios. These traits increased cumulative transpiration by 8 – 17%, changed cumulative carbon gain by -4 – 3%, and reduced minimum water potentials by 10 – 18%. Conversely, the water-saving extremes (lowest gmax or least negative Ψsc) strongly reduced water use and stress, but potentially compromised the carbon supply for ripening. Under RCP 8.5 conditions, these traits reduced transpiration by 22 – 35% and carbon gain by 9 – 16% and increased minimum water potentials by 20 – 28%, compared to mean values. Overall, selecting for more water-saving stomatal traits could improve water-use efficiency and avoid the detrimental effects of highly negative canopy water potentials on yield and quality, but more work is needed to evaluate whether these benefits outweigh the consequences of minor declines in carbon gain for fruit production.

Climate modeling at local scale in the Waipara winegrowing region in the climate change context

In viticulture, a warming climate can have a very significant impact on grapevine development and therefore on the quality and characteristics of wines across different spatial scales, ranging from global to local. In order to adapt wine-growing to climate change, global climate models can be used to define future scenarios, but only at the scale of major wine regions. Despite the huge progress made over the last ten years in terms of the spatial resolution of climate models (now downscaled to a few square kilometres), they are not yet sufficiently precise to account for the local climate variability associated with such parameters as local topography, in spite of these parameters being decisive for vine and wine characteristics. This study describes a method to downscale future climate scenarios to vineyard scale. Networks of data loggers have been used to collect air temperature at canopy level in the Waipara winegrowing region (New Zealand) over five growing seasons. These measurements allow the creation of fine-scale geostatistical models and maps of temperature (at 100 m resolution) for the growing season. In order to model climate change at pilot site scale, these geostatistical models have been combined with regional climate change predictions for the periods 2031-2050 and 2081-2100 based on the RCP8.5 climate change scenario. The integration of local climate variability with regionalized climate change simulations allows assessment of the impacts of climate change at the vineyard scale. The improved knowledge gained using this methodology results from the increased horizontal resolution that better addresses the concerns of winegrowers. The results provide the local winegrowers with information necessary to understand current processes, as well as historical and future viticulture trends at the scale of their site, thereby facilitating decisions about future response strategies.

Postveraison shoot trimming in Tannat and Merlot: preliminary results on yield components, plant balance and berry composition

There is currently a trend towards the production of wines with low alcohol content. To achieve this, grapes with low sugar content must be used. There are techniques at the vineyard level that can delay ripening and avoid excessive sugar accumulation without, a priori, affecting the final polyphenol content. Postveraison shoot trimming (PVST) is experimentally evaluated for these purposes, but its impact under Uruguayan climatic conditions with high interannual variability is not known. The aim of this work is to assess the PVST in Tannat and Merlot cultivars and their impact on yield components, plant balance and berry primary composition. In this study, two commercial vineyards of 10 years old Tannat and Merlot (grafted on SO4) at Canelones Department were selected. During the 2020-201 growing season, grapevines were submitted to PVST when grapes reached 15º Brix. In a randomized block, trimmed (T) and control (C) plants were evaluated with three repetitions each cultivar. Evaluation of the evolution of primary berry composition during ripening, measurement of yield components and plant balance were performed. For both cultivars, PVST did not affect yield components. Merlot reached 5.4 kg per plant and Tannat 7.1 kg, with not statistical significance between treatments. However, statistical differences were observed in terms of plant balance. In Merlot Ravaz Index reached a difference of 5.3 (12.0 in T and 6.7 in C) meanwhile Tannat reached 3.5 of statistical difference (13.7 in T and 10.2 in C). The tendency to imbalance for the treated plants had an impact on the final grape composition. Merlot grapes showed statistical difference in final total acidity (0.3 g of difference between treatments) while treatments impact final sugar content on Tannat grapes (10.0 g of difference between treatments). Further studies are needed to assess the impact of different canopy management techniques in our conditions.

The use of rootstock as a lever in the face of climate change and dieback of vineyard

As viticulture faces challenges such as climate change or vineyard dieback, the choice of the variety and rootstock becomes more and more crucial. To study rootstock levers in the Bordeaux region, a parcel of Cabernet Sauvignon (CS) was planted with four rootstocks in 2014. Twenty repetitions of each of the following four rootstocks were set up: 101-14 MGt, Nemadex AB, 420A MGt and Gravesac. The number of bunches, yields and pruning weights of the vine shoots were measured individually on 240 vines from 2017 to 2021. Since 2020, nitrogen status assessed by assimilable nitrogen level, hydric status assessed by δ13C and berry maturity were measured on 80 samples taken from 20 repetitions of the four rootstocks. A lower yield was measured for CS grafted onto Nemadex AB due to the lower number of bunches and the lower weight of berries. The differences between the other three rootstocks are small, but CS grafted onto 420A MGt was the most productive. The CS grafted onto Nemadex AB had the lowest pruning weight while 101-14 MGt had the highest. In 2020, δ13C showed a more moderate water stress with 101-14 MGt and 420A MGt than with Nemadex AB. Surprisingly, the Gravesac was under more stress than the 101-14 MGt. The nitrogen status in the berries was better for Nemadex AB but this was perhaps due to the significantly lower weight of the berries.Rootstock 101-14 MGt attained the highest accumulation of sugars in the berries while 420A MGt allows to preserve higher acidity. The parcel is still young which may explain some of the results. These measures must therefore be continued over the next several years to fully assess the effects of these rootstocks on the development of the vines and the quality of the production under new climatic conditions.