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IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Les terroirs : variae causarum figurae

Les terroirs : variae causarum figurae

Abstract

Le juriste se sent intrus pour parler des terroirs. Il regarde la presse et essaye de comprendre. On peut y lire à propos de la fête de la cuisine du 30 mai 1996 qui “..met en valeur des produits dont la qualité dépend d’un terroir”, que le Camembert du pays d’Auge est le seul à être protégé, je pensais au camembert de Normandie, que 80 % de la feta grecque est fabriquée aux Pays Bas, je croyais que c’était au Danemark, et que la Communauté européenne protège les indications géographiques de provenance IGP, sans doute une catégorie nouvelle remplaçant les indications géographiques protégées (1). J’ai appris aussi que les distributeurs redemandent des produits du terroir car “ils viennent brouiller les cartes dans la partie engagée avec les grandes marques”. Carrefour a ses “Terroirs et tiroirs”, Prisunic son “Vent d’Ouest”, Intermarché “Les bouquets du terroir”, Monoprix “Les terroirs de France” (2), Promodés et sa marque “Reflets de France” pour les hypermarchés “Continent” (3). Dans le même temps on affirme que “Le terme est un simple nom commun. Improtégeable et donc improtégé” (4).

Certes le vin et le terroir restent encore très majoritairement liés pour les consommateurs, mais au rythme actuel, le terroir non viticole risque la dépréciation rapide et le terroir viticole la banalisation par osmose. La publicité n’est pas en reste. Un dépliant décrit un produit comme un “grand cru” issu d’un “terroir exceptionnel”, l’un des “cent sites remarquables du goût”, auquel s’ajoute le “savoir faire de l’homme”, et continue encore “Les différents cépages sont pour nous les nombreuses plantes et épices que nous utilisons..”. Il s’agit d’une boisson spiritueuse anisée(5). Pour brouiller encore les cartes citons la campagne publicitaire estivale d’un vin sur “un positionnement original” grâce au slogan “Son terroir, c’est la mer” (6). Opérant un repli stratégique consécutif à l’effroi le juriste regarde avec attention l’objet habituel de ses réflexions: les textes. Les textes français et naturellement les textes communautaires et aussi quelques sources internationales. A quelques exceptions près, d’importance très modeste, les textes n’emploient jamais ou presque le vocable terroir. Terroir est un vocable utilisé, éventuellement, par les juristes, mais ce n’est pas un vocable à signification juridique (7). On se tourne alors vers les études scientifiques consacrées au(x) terroir(s). Aux yeux d’un juriste le contenu de la notion scientifique de terroir est évolutif mais avec un objectif de caractérisation pratiquement unique qui est la délimitation d’une “..aire de production..” pour le droit français (8), une “..région déterminée..” ou une “..aire géographique..” dans le droit communautaire (9). Il s’agit d’optimiser les caractéristiques d’une production en effectuant un zonage, en l’occurrence un mésozonage. Le lien terroir-appellation d’origine apparaît : “Constitue une appellation d’origine, la dénomination d’un pays, d’une région ou d’une localité servant à désigner un produit qui en est originaire et dont la qualité ou les caractères sont dus au milieu géographique, comprenant des facteurs naturels et des facteurs humains” (10). Est-ce à dire que le terroir se moule sur l’appellation d’origine etomporte dans son étude les facteurs naturels et les facteurs humains? L’équivalence terroir-appellation d’origine a pu être pratiquée par les scientifiques. De même la distinction des facteurs naturels et des facteurs humains a pu être variable dans sa signification (11). Aujourd’hui la notion scientifique de terroir parait devoir être comprise comme incluant seulement les éléments naturels du milieu, les facteurs naturels de l’appellation d’origine. Le terroir est l’ensemble des facteurs naturels d’une appellation d’origine, c’est à dire d’une aire de production déterminée produisant des vins “..aux caractéristiques qualitatives particulières..” (12). Mais en quelques années les réglementations nationales et communautaires, les conventions internationales, ont beaucoup changé. Le lien au terroir a fait recette et les noms géographiques sont devenus de plus en plus attractifs. Il faut vendre ce que l’on produit.

Le terroir reste toujours consubstantiel pour l’appellation d’origine, mais il a fallu tenir compte de produits autres que les vins. Il a fallu tenir compte de situations différentes de celles qui correspondent au moule de l’appellation d’origine à la française, typiquement et essentiellement vinicole. On a vu apparaître d’autres définitions depuis 1992: celles de l’indication géographique protégée – IGP dans la Communauté européenne et de l’indication géographique reconnue – IGR à l’O.I.V.. On a vu apparaître aussi les indications géographiques en 1994 dans l’un des accords résultant du cycle de l’Uruguay, l’Accord sur les Droits de Propriété Intellectuelle qui touchent au Commerce – ADPIC (Agreement on Trade related aspects of intellectual property rights – TRIPS).

Au travers de ces définitions y-a-t-il migration, influence, ou abandon de la notion de terroir ? peut-on penser qu’il existe désormais une gamme de terroirs ? (I). Par ailleurs les produits issus d’un lieu déterminé sont désignés par un nom géographique, parfois par une dénomination traditionnelle. La solution habituelle pour les appellations d’origine est-elle transmissible aux nouvelles situations d’indication géographique? Les noms des terroirs méritent aussi notre attention (II).

DOI:

Publication date: March 25, 2022

Issue: Terroir 1996

Type : Poster

Authors

J. AUDIER

Faculté de droit et de science politique d’Aix-Marseille
3, avenue R. Schuman 13628 Aix en Provence cedex 1

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 1996

Citation

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