La sémantique liée à la notion de terroir : une objectivité pluridisciplinaire

In a collective marketing strategy, the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) can be used as a quality indicator. To highlight terroir specificities, it is useful to know how the wines are positioned on the local, national or international market from a sensory point of view. This is especially true for a comparison of varietal wines (e.g. Sauvignon blanc). We focus on the case of two closed Loire Valley PDO (France): Quincy and Reuilly. Three distinct tastings were organized. Firstly, at the local level comparing the 2 PDO (11 and 9 wines, 17 professional assessors); secondly at a regional level adding 3 closed PDO: Menetou-Salon, Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé (3 wines per PDO, 16 assessors) and thirdly at an international level comparing these 5 PDO with Sauvignon Blanc wines coming from South Africa, New Zealand and Chile (1 to 3 wines per PDO, 19 assessors). All the wines were from the 2019 vintage and were considered to have a traditional elaboration process without contact with oak. A sensory descriptive analysis was performed using an aroma wheel allowing to combine a Check-All-That-Apply methodology, often used in sensory benchmarking, with a hierarchical structuration of the attributes. The aim is to facilitate data acquisition in a professional context without common training, to consider the hierarchical relationships among the attributes during the data analysis and to be able to characterize wines with a large range of sensorial variability. We use univariate, multivariate and clustering analyses. Similarities and differences between Quincy and Reuilly PDO wines and other Sauvignon blanc wines were identified. Specific attributes can distinguish the two PDO and different proximities exist with other local PDO, while clear differences were observed compared to international wines. Our study contributes to propose and discuss a method to do a wine sensory benchmarking highlighting sensory specificities linked to origin.

In the complex scenario that the wine industry and its promotion are currently facing, this research proposes a theoretical expansion of the traditional model used to understand the wine experience, namely the classic sensory, emotional and cognitive triad, moving toward a multidimensional approach that also incorporates cultural, symbolic and contextual dimensions in order to comprehend the conscious experience.

Sulfites (SO2) addition during winemaking is a widespread practice worldwide. This addition is realized at different steps of the winemaking due to the antimicrobial and antioxidant capacity of SO2. In a context of understanding white wines oxidative stability, knowledge about the impact of SO2 on the wine molecular diversity, especially compounds involved in the antioxidant capacity of wine, appears to be very important. In recent years, some studies have shown that SO2 can react with a large number of wine compounds resulting in the formation of numerous adducts. The diversity of compounds involved is important including in particular pyruvic acid, 2-keto-glutaric acid, glyceraldehyde, sugar, phenolics compounds but also amino acids or peptides. Moreover Roullier-Gall et al. have shown using FT-ICR-MS analysis that the molecular composition of wines remains impacted by addition of SO2 to the must (0, 4 and 8 g/hL SO2), several years after winemaking. Indeed, wines made from protected must (8g/hL SO2) contain a larger diversity of CHOS and CHONS compounds than wines made from unprotected must (0 g/hL SO2). The study of the impact of glutathione addition on the sensory oxidative stability has further shown that CHOS and CHONS compounds (amino acids, aromatic compounds and peptides) are markers of the antioxidant metabolome of white wines. This suggests that CHOS and CHONS compounds arise from SO2 adducts formation but also from a protecting effect of SO2 on the antioxidant metabolome of white wines.

Climate change is profoundly impacting wine tourism in Germany and presents new challenges for wineries.

Biodiversity conservation and restoration are essential for guarantee the provision of ecosystem services associated to vineyard agroecosystem such as climate regulation trough carbon sequestration and control of pests and diseases. Most of published research dealing with the complexity of the vineyard agroecosystems emphasizes the necessity of innovative approaches, including the integration of information at different temporal and spatial scales and development of systemic analysis based on modelling. A biodiversity survey was conducted in the Franciacorta wine-growing area (Lombardy, Italy), one of the most important Italian wine-growing regions for sparkling wine production, considering a portion of the territory of 112 ha. The area was divided into several Environmental Units (EUs), defined as a whole vineyard or portion of vineyard homogenous in terms of four agronomic characteristics: planting year, planting density, cultivar, and training system. In each EU a set of compartments was identified and characterised by specific variables. The compartments are meteorology, morphology (altitude, slope, aspect, row orientation, and solar irradiance), ecological infrastructures and management. The landscape surrounding EU was also characterised in terms of land-use in a buffer zone of 500 m. For each component a specific methodology was identified and applied. Different statistical approaches were used to evaluate the method to integrate the information related to different compartments within the EU and related to the buffer zone. These approaches were also preliminarily evaluated for their ability to describe the contribution of biodiversity and landscape components to ecosystem services. This methodological exploration provides useful indication for the development of a fully systemic approach to structural and functional biodiversity in vineyard agroecosystems, contributing to promote a multifunctional perspective for the all wine-growing sector.