Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Basic Terroir Unit (U.T.B.) and quality control label for honey; making the designations of origin (A.O.C) and« crus » more coherent

Basic Terroir Unit (U.T.B.) and quality control label for honey; making the designations of origin (A.O.C) and« crus » more coherent

Abstract

Considérant d’une part la judicieuse mise au point d’un label de qualité contrôlée des miels suisses (STÖCKLI et al. 1997), considérant d’autre part l’élaboration d’une carte des paysages végétaux (HEGG et al. 1993), considérant de plus l’articulation de cette carte en combinaisons caractéristiques d’associations végétales ou secteurs intégrant et reflétant tous les facteurs de l’environnement : édaphiques, climatiques et biotiques, considérant qu’il devient ainsi possible de contrôler aussi bien la qualité (mode d’exploitation, savoir-faire de l’homme) que l’origine des miels (délimitation en secteurs ou unités de terroir de base, U.T.B selon MORLAT 1997, 2001), considérant par ailleurs qu’un catalogue (non exhaustif mais comprenant à la base une cinquantaine de descripteurs des goûts de miel) peut être consulté et utilisé pratiquement (GUYOT-DECLERC 1998), considérant finalement le goût des miels comme un patrimoine à découvrir, à inventorier, à classer et à valoriser, l’auteur propose un modèle d’étiquette A.O.C. et un organigramme de dégustation à l’intérieur d’une trentaine d’Unités Terroir de Base (U.T.B.) appelées à donner plus de cohérence au système des origines

The author has taken into account the following elements: the development of a quality control label for honey (STÖCKLI et al. 1997), the creation of a map of vegetation landscapes (HEGG et al. 1993) , the expression of this map in characteristic combinations of vegetation associations (sector), that the vegetation association(s) together with its combination of « mellifere » species integrates and reflects all environmental factors : edaphic, climatic and biotic, that it becomes possible to verify not only the quality (production method, human know-how) but also the origin of honey (determination of sectors or base units of «terroir» according to MORLAT 1997, 2001), that a catalog could be consulted and utilised practically (not a complete catalogue, but having a base of about 50 taste descriptions for honey) (GUYOT-DECLERC 1998), and lastly, judging the taste of honeys a heritage to discover, to inventory and to classify, the author proposes a model of A.O.C. labelling and an organigramme for tasting honeys in Switzerland, within approximately 30 U.T.B., to make the system of origins more coherent.

 

 

 

DOI:

Publication date: April 12, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2002 

Type: Article

Authors

Claude BÉGUIN

Institut de Géographie, Université de Fribourg. CH. 1700 Fribourg

Contact the author

Keywords

Modèle, étiquette A.O.C., végétation mellifère, écologie paysagère, typicité
Model, A.O.C. label, melliferous vegetation, landscape ecology, typicity

Tags

Citation

Related articles…

Elucidating vineyard site contributions to key sensory molecules: Identification of correlations between elemental composition and volatile aroma profile of site-specific Pinot noir wines

The reproducibility of elemental profile in wines produced across multiple vintages has been previously reported using grapes from a single scion clone of Vitis vinifera L. cv. Pinot noir. The grapevines were grown on fourteen different vineyard sites, from Oregon to southern California in the U.S.A., which span distances from approximately hundreds of meters to 1450 km, while elevations range from near sea level to nearly 500 m. In addition, sensorial (i.e. aroma, taste, and mouthfeel) and chemical (i.e. polyphenolic and volatile) differences across the different vineyard sites have also been observed among these wines at two aging time points. While strong evidence exists to support that grapes grown in different regions can produce wines with unique chemical and sensorial profiles, even when a single clone is used, the understanding of growing site characteristics that result in this reproducible differentiation continues to emerge. One hypothesis is that the elemental profile that a vineyard site imparts to the grape berries and the resulting wine is an important contributor to this differentiation in chemistry and sensory of wines. For example, various classes of enzymes that catalyze the formation of key aroma compounds or their precursors require specific metals. In this work, we begin to report correlations between elemental and volatile aroma profiles of site-specific Pinot noir wines, made under standardized winemaking conditions, that have been previously shown to be distinguished separately by these chemical analyses.

Modeling the suitability of Pinot Noir in Oregon’s Willamette Valley in a changing climate

Air temperature is the key driver of grapevine phenology and a significant environmental factor impacting yield and quality for a winegrape growing region. In this study the optimal downscaled CMIP5 ensemble for computing thegrowing season average temperature (GST) viticulture climate classification index was determined to spatially compute on a decadal basis predictions of the GST climate index and the grapevine sugar ripeness (GSR) model for Pinot Noir throughout the Willamette Valley (WV) American Viticultural Area (AVA). Forecasts for average temperature and a 220 g/L target sugar concentration level were computed using daily Localized Constructed Analogs (LOCA) downscaled CMIP5 historic and Representative Concentration Pathways (RCP) future climate projections of minimum and maximum daily temperature. We explore spatiotemporal trends of the GST climate classification index and Pinot Noir specific applications of the GSR phenology model for the WV AVA. Spatiotemporal computations of the GST climate index and Pinot Noir specific applications of the GSR model enable the opportunity to explore relationships between their computed values with one intent being to provide updated GST ranges that better align with current temperature-based modeling understanding of Pinot Noir grapevine phenology and the viticultural application of LOCA CMIP5 climate projections for the WV AVA. The Pinot Noir specific applications of the GSR model or the GST index with updated bounds indicate that the percent of the WV AVA area suitable for Pinot Noir production is currently at or near its peak value in the upper 80s to lower 90s of this century.

Aromatic maturity is a cornerstone of terroir expression in red wine

Harvesting grapes at adequate maturity is key to the production of high-quality red wines. Enologists and wine makers define several types of maturity, including technical maturity, phenolic maturity and aromatic maturity. Technical maturity and phenolic maturity are relatively well documented in the scientific literature, while articles on aromatic maturity are scarcer. This is surprising, because aromatic maturity is, without a doubt, the most important of the three in determining wine quality and typicity (including terroir expression). Optimal terroir expression can be obtained when the different types of maturity are reached at the same time, or within a short time frame. This is more likely to occur when the ripening takes place under mild temperatures, neither too cool, nor too hot. Aromatic expression in wine can be driven, from low to high maturity, by green, herbal, fresh fruit, ripe fruit, jammy fruit, candied fruit or cooked fruit aromas. Green and cooked fruit aromas are not desirable in red wines, while the levels of other aromatic compounds contribute to the typicity of the wine in relation to its origin. Wines produced in cool climates, or on cool soils in temperate climates, are likely to express herbal or fresh fruit aromas; while wines produced under warm climates, or on warm soils in temperate climates, may express ripe fruit, jammy fruit or candied fruit aromas. Growers can optimize terroir expression through their choice of grapevine variety. Early ripening varieties perform better in cool climates and late ripening varieties in warm climates. Additionally, maturity can be advanced or delayed by different canopy management practices or training systems.

How can historical cultivars mitigate the effects of climate change?

IFV, INRAe and the national network “Partenaires de la Sélection Vigne” representing 37 organizations from the different wine regions, have been working increasingly closely over the last 2 decades towards the preservation of the French varietal patrimony. There are approximately 600 patrimonial varieties according to INRAe and SupAgro Montpellier experts, including ancient cultivars (400) and intravarietal crossbreeds obtained since the 19th century. In the context of a drastic reduction in such varieties from the mid 1980’s in favor of mainstream varieties, it was essential to carry out an inventory of old vines and vineyards. INRAe Vassal collection plays a key role here as it holds the largest diversity available, along with a rich bibliography and herbariums, offering us the opportunity to document and double check the identity of a cultivar, consolidating the expertise of ampelographers. The work is carried out in several stages, from verifying the existence of a variety in a small region, through to rehabilitation. During this session, the authors present the process that leads to the official registration of a variety. After this, IFV selection center takes over to initiate the process of selection and propagation. A specific focus within regions such as the Alps, Champagne and the South-West will provide details of the full procedure. Bia, Bouysselet, Chardonnay rose, Mecle and the aptly named Tardif, are some of the cultivars that have followed this procedure. Furthermore, a recent regulation established by INAO on “varieties of interest for adaptation purposes” might boost uptake by growers. Since 2006, 36 historical cultivars have been registered. Most of these have been neglected in the past due to late maturity, lack of sugar and high titratable acidity at harvest time. Such characteristics are today considered as positive qualities, not only in mitigation of the effects of climate change, but also as an opportunity for restoring diversity…

Extreme canopy management for vineyard adaptation to climate change: is it a good idea?

Climate change constitutes an enormous challenge for humankind and for all human activities, viticulture not being an exception. Long-term strategic changes are probably needed the most, but growers also need to deal with short-term changes: summers that are getting progressively warmer, earlier harvest dates and higher pH in musts and wines. In the last 10-15 years, a relevant corpus of research is being developed worldwide in order to evaluate to which extent extreme canopy management operations, aimed at reducing leaf area and, thus, limiting the source to sink ratio, could be useful to delay ripening. Although extreme canopy management can result in relevant delays in harvest dates, longer term studies, as well as detailed analysis of their implications on carbohydrate reserves, bud fertility and future yield are desirable before these practices can be recommended.