WAC 2022 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 WAC 9 WAC 2022 9 3 - WAC - Oral 9 Pure wine vs natural wine

Pure wine vs natural wine

Abstract

English version below

Vins purs VS vins natures.

S’il n’existe pas de réglementation officielle, la démarche des vins naturels prône un retour aux pratiques dites ancestrales préconisant notamment un mode d’élaboration des vins utilisant le moins d’intrants possible. Le seul autorisé reste l’anhydride sulfureux (SO2) à des doses quatre à cinq fois moins importantes que pour les vins dits conventionnels. Ce désir de renouer avec des pratiques anciennes et plus respectueuses des sols, du végétal et du produit vin trouverait-il un fondement historique ? 
Les textes et les ouvrages, notamment ceux des XVIIe et XVIIIe siècles, mentionnent des vins « bon, pur, loyal et marchand ». Qu’entend-on alors par un vin pur ? Pourrait-on trouver dans cette définition les prémices des vins naturels ? 
La littérature domestique et gastronomique étant très fournie sur cette période, la consultation d’auteurs tels que Nicolas de Bonnefons, Besnier, Angran de Rueneuve, Louis Liger d’Auxerre, Lemery et bien d’autres lève le voile sur les pratiques viticoles et vineuses d’une époque où cette notion de vin pur revient assez fréquemment. Élaboration, vinifications, élevage, conservation des vins, traitements, ces pratiques de l’époque moderne annoncent-elles la philosophie adoptée par les vins naturels d’aujourd’hui ?

Although there is no formal regulation, the natural wine approach calls for a return to ancestral practices, which include a wine making process using as few inputs as possible.
The only one authorized is sulphur dioxide (SO2) at doses four to five times lower than for conventional wine. 
Would this desire to reconnect with old practices , more respectful of soils, plants and wine has a historical basis?
Books, especially those of the 17th and 18th centuries, mention wines which must be “good, pure, loyal and merchant”. But what is the meaning of a pure wine at that time? Could this be considered as the firstfruit of natural wine?
As domestic and gastronomic literature is very abundant during this period, consulting authors such as Nicolas de Bonnefons, Besnier, Angran de Rueneuve, Louis Liger d’Auxerre, Lemery and many others could shed light on winemaking practices of a time when notion of pure wine comes up quite frequently. Wine making process, vinification, ageing, conservation of wines, treatments, do these practices announce the philosophy adopted by the today natural wine?

DOI:

Publication date: June 13, 2022

Issue: WAC 2022

Type: Article

Authors

Charlotte Fromont

Presenting author

Charlotte Fromont – CHVV & Chaire UNESCO Culture & tradition du vin

CHVV & Chaire UNESCO Culture & tradition du vin 

Contact the author

Tags

IVES Conference Series | WAC 2022

Citation

Related articles…

Carbon isotope labeling to detect source-sink relationships in grapevines upon drought stress and re-watering

Kinetics of carbon allocation in the different plant sinks (root-shoot-fruit) competing in drought stressed and rehydrated grapevines have been investigated.

Exploring changes in browning kinetics, color, and antioxidants due to dealcoholization of wine

The global consumer demand for low or non-alcoholic wine is growing steadily in recent years, driven by health concerns, religious beliefs, and personal taste preferences etc.. Consequently, the removal of alcohol from wine can significantly alter its chemical and sensory properties, including color, aroma, and taste, which make a significant challenge for consumer to accept these products. Ethanol plays a crucial role in various chemical reactions and interactions that contribute to the development of wine’s characteristics.

Enological, economical, social and viticulture ”terroir” units as fundamental elements of mosaic of “big” zoning

Nous savons tous très bien qu’on a assisté au cours de ces dix dernières années à une éclosion soudaine de recherches sur le zonage viti-vinicole qui, à partir par exemple du modèle du concept de “terroir”, se sont de plus en plus enrichies en passant aux “Unités ou Systèmes de Transformation” (UTTE) et “Valorisation” (UTCE) pour terminer avec les “Systèmes productifs globaux du Territoire” (UTB) comprenant en filière les aspects existentiels (UTBES), sociaux (UTBSO) et économiques (UTBEC) hypothisés dans le “GRANDE ZONAZIONE: Grand zonage” (MORLAT R., 1996, CARBONNEAU A., 1996, TOUZARD J.M. 1998, CARBONNEAU A., CARGNELLO G., 1996, 1998, CARGNELLO G., 1994, 1995, 1996, 1998, 1999, 2001, -MILOTIC A., CARGNELLO G., PERSURIC G., 1999, PERSURIC G., STAYER M., CARGNELLO G., 2000, MILOTIC A., OPLANIC M., CARGNELLO G., PERSURIC G., 2000).

Grapevine bud fertility under elevated carbon dioxide

Aims: Microscopic bud dissection is a common tool used to assess grapevine bud fertility and therefore to predict the yield of the following season

Evaluation of vineyards, fruit and wine affected by wild fire smoke

Wineries may randomly reject fruit from vineyards near wild fires exposed to smoke. It is difficult to determine if fruit has been compromised in quality when exposed to smoke