Organic and biodynamic sustainable productions and effect on eligibility and peculiarity of a typical wine

Riesling represents the most widely cultivated grape variety in Germany and is therefore of particular economic interest. During recent years an increase in the petrol-note as well as in undesirable bitter and adstringent notes has been reported. These changes are most likely linked to increasing temperature and sunlight exposure of grapes due to climate changes.
The “petrol note” is caused by the formation of the C13-norisoprenoid 1,1,6-trimethyl-1,2-dihydronaphthalin (TDN), which originates from acid-labile precursors formed by the carotenoid degradation in the grape.

En Anjou, une méthode de caractérisation des terroirs viticoles a été développée. Elle utilise un modèle de terrain basé sur la profondeur de sol et son degré d’argilisation. Le modèle concerne des terrains issus principalement de roches mères métamorphiques et éruptives du Massif Armoricain. Cet outil de caractérisation des terroirs viticoles nécessite d’être adapté lorsqu’il s’agit d’ensembles géologiques très différents, en particulier sur sols d’apport et de roches mères tendres et poreuses du Bassin Parisien. Une meilleure compréhension de la réserve hydrique des sols apparaît être un critère important de l’interaction entre le milieu et la plante.

Making high quality but affordable Pinot noir (PN) wine is challenging in most terroirs and New Zealand’s (NZ) situation is no exception. To increase the probability of making highly typical PN wines producers choose to grow grapes in cool climates on lower fertility soils while adopting labour intensive practices. Stringent yield targets and higher input costs necessarily mean that PN wine cost is high, and profitability lower, in line-priced varietal wine ranges. To understand the reasons why higher yielding vines are perceived to produce wines of lower quality we have undertaken an extensive study of PN in NZ. Since 2018, we established a network of twelve trial sites in three NZ regions to find individual vines that produced acceptable commercial yields (above 2.5kg per vine) and wines of composition comparable to “Icon” labels. Approximately 20% of 660 grape lots (N = 135) were selected from within a narrow juice Total Soluble Solids (TSS) range and made into single vine wines under controlled conditions. Principal Component Analysis of the vine, berry, juice and wine parameters from three vintages found grape berry mass to be most effective clustering variable. As berry mass category decreased there was a systematic increase in the probability of higher berry red colour and total phenolics with a parallel increase in wine phenolics, changed aroma fraction and decreased juice amino acids. The influence of berry size on wine composition would appear stronger than the individual effects of vintage, region, vineyard or vine yield. Our observations support the hypothesis that it is possible to produce PN wines that fall within an “Icon” benchmark composition range at yields above 2.5kg per vine provided that the Leaf Area:Fruit Weight ratio is above 12cm2 per g, mean berry mass is below 1.2g and juice TSS is above 22°Brix.

Work aimed at understanding the relationship between a terroir, in the agronomic sense, and the physico-chemical characteristics of grapes or wine are numerous today, as evidenced by the program of this symposium. But for an economist, the central question remains to know how the terroir can intervene in the construction of the economic value of wine and in the differentiation of its prices. Is the terroir effect recognized by the end consumer or is it only an internal adjustment variable in the production systems? Through which indicators can this terroir effect be managed by the various operators in the sector? In the end, isn’t it better to invoke a “territorial effect” that the actors can build, and of which the terroir would be one of the possible components?

Drought is one of the main challenges for viticulture in the context of climate change. Selecting drought-tolerant plant material can be an effective strategy for a sustainable viticulture.