Wines produces without SO2 addition: which impact on their colour? An approach at the global and pigments levels

La maîtrise de la typicité du vin s’élabore au niveau local ou communal d’une exploitation viticole et/ou d’une cave, unité de vinification. La cave coopérative de Saint-Hilaire­-d’Ozilhan (AOC Côtes-du-Rhône), dont le territoire communal s’étend sur une superficie de 1 670 ha, couvre près de 310 ha cultivés en vigne. Elle réalise des vinifications «au terroir», en utilisant des regroupements d’unités de sol en 9 unités de terroir potentiellement viticoles, définies en s’appuyant sur la parenté des substrats. Diverses sélections d’une même unité peuvent aboutir aussi à des vins différents, ce qui suggère une hétérogénéité spatiale de certaines unités définies.

In questa nota viene analizzata l’importanza della conoscenza del territorio nel funzionamento del mercato dei prodotti alimentari di qualità e nella gestione delle denominazioni di origine.
La denominazione di origine si sta affermando in tutti i mercati alimentari, dopo l’esperienza secolare maturata nel mercato del vino. Iniziative nel campo del turismo, delle produzioni ecologiche, della promozione dello sviluppo, sono collegate alla dimensione territoriale, in risposta ad un generale orientamento della domanda.

Le régime thermique en période de maturation du raisin est l’une des variables déterminantes de la coloration du raisin et de la richesse en arômes, anthocyanes et polyphénols des vins.

In the last decades the growers of the Portuguese Dão winegrowing region (center of Portugal) are experiencing changes in climate that are influencing either grape phenology berry health and ripening. Aiming to study the relationships between climate indices (CI), seasonal weather and grapevine phenology, in this work long-term climate and phenological data collected at the experimental vineyard of the Portuguese Dão research centre between 1958 and 2019 (61 years) for the red variety Touriga Nacional, was analyzed. The trends over time for the classical temperature-based indices (Growing Season Temperature – GST -, Growing Degree Days – GDD, Huglin Index – HI and Cool Night Index – CI) presented a significantly positive slope while the Dryness Index (DI) showed a negative trend over the last 61 years. Regarding grapevine phenology, an average advance of 4.5 days per decade in the harvest day was observed throughout the last 61 years. Consequently, the weather conditions during the ripening period have changed, showing an increasing trend over time in the average temperature (higher magnitude in the maximum than in the minimum temperature) and a decrease in the accumulated rainfall. A regression analysis showed that ~50% of harvest date variability over years was explained by the temperature-based indices variability. These observed effects of climate change on bioclimatic indices and corresponding anticipation of harvest date can still be considered advantageous for the Dão terroir as it allows to achieve an optimal berry ripening before the common equinox rains and, therefore, avoid the potential negative impacts of the rainfall on berry health and composition.

Winegrowing regions recognized as protected designations of origin (PDOs) are closely tied to well defined geographic locations with a specific set of pedoclimatic attributes and strictly regulated by legal specifications. However, climate change is increasingly threatening these regions by changing local conditions and altering winegrowing processes. The vulnerability to these changes is largely heterogenous across different winegrowing regions because it is determined by individual characteristics of each region, including the capacity to adapt to new climatic conditions and the sensitivity to climate change, which depend not only on natural, but also socioeconomic and legal factors. Accurate vulnerability assessments therefore need to combine information about adaptive capacity and climate change sensitivity with projected exposure to new climatic conditions. However, most existing studies focus on specific impacts neglecting important interactions between the different factors that determine climate change vulnerability. Here, we present the first comprehensive vulnerability assessment of European wine PDOs that spatially combines multiple indicators of adaptive capacity and climate change sensitivity with high-resolution climate projections. We found that the climate change vulnerability of PDO areas largely depends on the complex interactions between physical and socioeconomic factors. Homogenous topographic conditions and a narrow varietal spectrum increase climate change vulnerability, while the skills and education of farmers, together with a good economic situation, decrease their vulnerability. Assessments of climate change consequences therefore need to consider multiple variables as well as their interrelations to provide a comprehensive understanding of the expected impacts of climate change on European PDOs. Our results provide the first vulnerability assessment for European winegrowing regions at high spatiotemporal resolution that includes multiple factors related to climate exposure, sensitivity, and adaptive capacity on the level of single winegrowing regions. They will therefore help to identify hot spots of climate change vulnerability among European PDOs and efficiently direct adaptation strategies.