CONTRIBUTION OF VOLATILE THIOLS TO THE AROMA OF RIESLING WINES FROM THREE REGIONS IN GERMANY AND FRANCE (RHEINGAU, MOSEL, AND ALSACE)

This paper focuses on how taste in wine (and other foods) changes and the implications of this process
for producers and merchants.
It draws primarily on the changing taste of and taste for champagne in Britain in the 19th century. Between 1850 and 1880 champagne went from a dosage level of around 20% (20 grams sugar / litre) to 0%. Champagne became the ‘dinner wine of the elite – drunk with roast meat and savoury dishes.
Contemporaries accepted that while most people could distinguish the taste of good champagne from that of bad, very few could distinguish very good from good.

Koshu is one of the indigenous grape variety that has been grown in Japan for more than one thousand years. Recent research showed that it has 70% of Vitis vinifera genes. In 2010, the Koshu variety was included in ‘International List of Vine and Varieties and their Synonyms’ managed by the ‘International Organisation of Vine and Wine’ and has further fueled its popularity in Japan. It is the most cultivated variety for winemaking in Japan.
Koshu berries have light purple skins. The variety is mainly used to produce white wines such as an aromatic wine and a wine produced by sur lie method although various styles are produced.

The aging potential of Burgundy chardonnay wines is considered as quality indicator. However, some of them exhibit higher oxidative sensitivity and premature oxidative aging symptoms, which are potentially induced by no-enzymatic oxidation such as Fenton-type reaction (Danilewicz, 2003). This chemical mechanism involves the action of transition metal, native phenolic compounds and oxygen which promote the generation of highly reactive oxygen species (ROS) such as hydroxyl radicals (OH) or 1-hydroxyethyl radicals (1-HER) from oxidation of ethanol. Such mechanism is involved in the radical oxidation occurring during bottle aging. According to Elias et al.,(2009a), the 1-HER is the most abundant radical in forced oxidation treated wines. Consequently, understanding its evolution kinetic in dry white wines is of great importance.

The evolution of wine during bottle ageing has been of great interest to ensure consistent quality over time. While the role of wine closures on the amount of oxygen is well-known [1], closures could also play other roles such as the scalping phenomenon of flavour compounds. Flavour scalping has been described as the sorption of flavour compounds by the packaging material, which could result in losses of flavour intensity. It has been reported in the literature that volatile sulphur compounds (VSC) can be scalped on wine closures depending on the type of closure (traditional and agglomerated cork, screw-cap, synthetic [2]).

During bottle aging, many thiol compounds are involved in the expression of bouquet of great aged red wines according to the quality of the closure.1,2 Identifying thiol compounds in red wines is a challenging task due several drawbacks including, the complexity of the matrix, the low concentration of these impact compounds and the amount of wine needed.3,4
This work aims to develop a new strategy based on the functionalisation of oak wood organic extracts with H₂S, to produce new thiols, in order to mimic what can happen in red wine during bottle aging. Following this approach and through sensory analysis experiments, we demonstrated that the vanilla-like aroma of fresh oak wood was transformed into intense “meaty” nuances similar to those found in old but non oxidized red wines.