Sensory definition of green aroma concept in red French wines. Evidence for the contribution of novel volatile markers

(-)-Rotundone, an oxygenated sesquiterpene, is a potent odorant molecule with a characteristic spicy aroma existing in various plants including grapes1. It is considered as a significant compound notably in wines and grapes because of its low sensory threshold (16 ng L-1 in red wine, 8 ng L-1 in water) and aroma properties. (-)-Rotundone was first identified in red wine made from the grape cultivar Syrah (regionally called Shiraz) in Australia1, and then it was found in several grape varieties such as Duras, Grüner Veltliner, Schioppettino and Vespolina from Europe2, 3. Several environmental factors affecting the accumulation of (-)-Rotundone during the grape maturation, were reported such as ambient temperature4, soil properties and topography5, soil moisture from irrigation and light exposure in the bunch zone by leaf removal2.

During the tasting of a fine, old wine, the aromas generated in the glass are intertwined in an intimate, complex manner, expressing the fragrance of the aging bouquet. This aging bouquet, which develops during bottle storage through a complex transformation process, may result in a broad palette of nuances. Among these, undergrowth, truffle, toasted, spicy, licorice, fresh red- and black-berry fruit and mint descriptors were recently identified as features of its olfactory representation for red Bordeaux wines. Although a targeted chemical approach focusing on volatile sulfur compounds revealed the role played by dimethyl sulfide, 2-furanmethanethiol, and 3-sulfanylhexanol as molecular markers of the typicality of the wine aging bouquet of red Bordeaux wines, its chemical transcription has only partially been elucidated.

C-Glucosidic ellagitannins, which are the main polyphenolic compounds in oak heartwood, are extracted by wine during aging in oak barrels. Although such maturing of alcoholic beverages in oak barrels is a multi-centennial practice, very little is known on the impact of these ellagitannins on the organoleptic properties of red wine. The objectives of the present investigation were (i) to isolate oak ellagitannins and to hemisynthesize some made-in-wine flavano-ellagitannins, such as acutissimin A; (ii) to analyse their concentration ranges depending on the cultivar area and (iii) to evaluate their sensory impact on the basis of their human threshold concentrations and dose/response relationships in different types of solutions.

Initiatives have been ongoing in recent years to safeguard biodiversity in the oenological sector via a process of enhancement of ancient varieties, under a pressure of a market strongly oriented towards production deriving from native vines of specific geographical zones. In that sense, Aosta Valley
(Italy) has raised the need to preserve and characterize its minority vine varieties which have the potentiality to give varietal wines. Fumin represents the 7% of the production of the region with 16 hectares of vineyards and 753 hectolitres of derived wine. Due to its large phenolic potential, strong astringency and deep colour, it has long been, and is still today, assembled or blended with other varieties as occurs, for example, for the Torrette.

Phenolic compounds are important quality indicators in red wine. A large number of polyphenols play an important role in wine development, contributing to the colour and the sensory perception of the wines. Anthocyanins are the pigments responsible for the colour in young red wines while tannins are the principal contributors to the bitterness and the astringency of the wines. Wine polyphenols are considered more complex molecules than grape phenolics, due to the enormous number of chemical reactions which take place during the entire winemaking process and storage, forming more stable compounds.