Smoke tainted wine – what now?

In its 2020 beating cancer plan, the european commission announced plans for mandatory warning signs for alcoholic beverages. However, no concrete legislative proposal has been put forward so far. Instead, ireland passed national legislation in 2023 that requires warning signs for all alcoholic beverages from 2026. Despite significant effects for the common market, the eu commission did not this challenge this law in the so-called tris notification procedure. We argue that the commission’s inaction is consistent with the case law of the european court of justice: in the absence of harmonized rules, member states have a large margin of discretion to enact national health measures.

In 1979, the so-called “french paradox” was proposed, that is, a correlation between wine consumption, a diet rich in saturated fats, and a low mortality from coronary heart disease. On the other hand, it has also been described that alcohol consumption has negative effects on aging and increases the risk of liver cirrhosis and cancer. However, both hypotheses are based on population studies that may present distortions due to multiple factors (geographic, diet, smoking, socioeconomic level, etc.).

Considering that „prevention requires information”, in 2007, the european education program wine in moderation (wim) started. The common message of responsible and only moderate wine consumption is implemented in each participating country, adapted to national circumstances. In germany, besides recruiting new wim members from the wine sector, the deutsche weinakademie focusses also on information and education of future wine makers and cellar men in professional schools. The seminars cover basic information about the existing legal framework (youth protecting law, drink driving laws, etc.), the self regulation code of conduct for commercial communications (advertising) of alcoholic beverages as well as the health effects of alcoholic beverages, and of wine in particular.

At a time when the world’s winegrowing industry is having to adapt to a number of challenges, winegrowers are wondering about the consequent changes they will have to make (grape varieties, changes in vineyard and cellar techniques). For winegrowers and consumers alike, there is also the question of how these changes will affect the taste of their wines. This research, based on the study of numerous sources and archives from the 20th century, some of which have never been published before, aims to show that, in the recent past, the winegrowing world has shown incredible resilience in the face of crises, and that the taste and perception of fine wines has changed considerably in 100 years.

The biodiversity of cultivated vines has been significantly reduced due to a series of factors that have favoured the cultivation of a limited number of varieties and clones over time. In veneto, since 1980, a series of important actions have been implemented to counter this process. These actions have focused on the conservation of germplasm identified in the territory and the recovery of varieties historically present in the region, which were in danger of being abandoned and disappearing.